Headlights switch on, off

[FeroFazer]

Hi my riends. Pls I need advice. I want to make a light switch. What is the procedure? Please advise some wiring diagram or some photo

 

[Motogiro]

The headlight relay is in control of the circuit that gives power to the headlights. Why do you want to disable the headlight?

 

[FeroFazer]

because of the fact that the motorcycle is weakly charging me for electricity.
where should i place the switch?
which cable relay should I cut?

 

[Gary in NJ]

The correct action is to find out why you have a weak charging system and fix that? You can check the output of the stator to see if it’s producing enough power. What is the condition of your battery? Have you checked the leads at the battery to make sure they are tight a free of corrosion?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Plus 1 ^^^.

I have the low beam dual headlight mod (BD43), GPS and have NO issues with charging. And that's with the idle set at 1,100..

To give you an idea what you should be seeing:
(And this video was taken just before I replaced the battery)

https://flic.kr/p/LDtUch

.
.

 

[trepetti]

because of the fact that the motorcycle is weakly charging me for electricity.
where should i place the switch?
which cable relay should I cut?

Big mistake. Find and fix the problem.

 

[Motogiro]

I totally agree that you should repair your charging issue.
Number one is the safety issue of having an active headlamp because bikes are generally less visible to others. Number two is if you don't repair the system you will eventually be stranded and and again this could end up a safety issue.
Number three is if you learn electrical by trouble shooting and repairing you charging system, you will have a better, more informed education that will make you a better independent person which will lead you to find the wire on the headlight relay should you still want to interrupt that circuit.
There are many threads on this forum to help you resolve this charging problem.
Let me know and I will get a service manual to you.

 

[Motogiro]

Do some searches on the forum. We've been largely successful at getting these bikes healthy for years.

Example: https://www.600riders.com/threads/charging-problem.59634/

Simple things to rule out are charge and load test the battery. Make sure connections at the battery are clean and secure. Check that the voltage regulator/rectifier plug is fully plugged in and that the plug pins are not burnt and are in good condition. Next would be to test the stator...

 

[FeroFazer]

T
I do not solve the stator of the motorcycle........ Pls.
how to make light switch?
answers only to the topic pls.

 

[trepetti]

T
I do not solve the stator of the motorcycle........ Pls.
how to make light switch?
answers only to the topic pls.

If you have a charging problem, what are you going to do when it gets worse? Eventually it will cause the engine to stop and will be dangerous. Why don't you want to fix the problem? I am not sure that anyone here will give you advice that might be dangerous.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Here is my suggestion, rather than hack up your wire harness, simply remove the 20A headlight fuse. It will reduce the current draw by about 4 amps.

You SHOULD check the voltage at the battery terminals - both with the headlight fuse in place and with it removed. If you don't see at least 13.5VDC, your problem will not go away - you will have to address the charging issue.

Say hi to moose and squirrel for me.

 

[trepetti]

Here is my suggestion, rather than hack up your wire harness, simply remove the 20A headlight fuse. It will reduce the current draw by about 4 amps.

You SHOULD check the voltage at the battery terminals - both with the headlight fuse in place and with it removed. If you don't see at least 13.5VDC, your problem will not go away - you will have to address the charging issue.

Say hi to moose and squirrel for me.

This cracked me up!

 

[trepetti]

Here is my suggestion, rather than hack up your wire harness, simply remove the 20A headlight fuse. It will reduce the current draw by about 4 amps.

You SHOULD check the voltage at the battery terminals - both with the headlight fuse in place and with it removed. If you don't see at least 13.5VDC, your problem will not go away - you will have to address the charging issue.

Say hi to moose and squirrel for me.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Literally, LOL!

 

[Motogiro]

And because we love Moose and Squirrel: The headlight relay can be found under the, if I remember correctly, the left plastic pod right below the seat. It has a 4 wire plug A red with a yellow tracer wire that goes to 2 pins. A green wire and a yellow with a black tracer wire. The yellow with black tracer wire is the ECU wire that controls the relay. If you break that wire and put an inline switch you can switch the relay on and off.
Remember this is not considered a safe fix for your issue and please don't take offense at the members, including me that feel you should properly repair your charging problem. We care that people have a fun, safe and healthy riding experience.
Okay Mr. Peabody, lets go for a ride in the "Wayback Machine? Wait a minute....Where's Sherman?

 

[FeroFazer]

I'm not kidding anyone. I replaced the new charging regulator. After a while, I will also install a new stator. Thank you for any advice.

 

[Gary in NJ]

It can get expensive and frustrating to simply replace parts. There is a process to go through to understand why the charging system doesn’t work. Do you have a multimeter (volt meter)?

 

[Gary in NJ]

OK, if you have a multi-meter please do the following tests:

1. Check the voltage at the battery with the ignition key in the off position. It should be around 12.6 to 12.8VDC. Do this test at least an hour after charging. If it's less than 12.6VDC, disconnect the battery terminals and charge the battery again. Wait an hour and check the voltage again. If it is still low, you need to replace the battery. If it now reads in the normal range, you have a parasite loss (a short) somewhere in the electrical system.

2. If the battery passes the first test, check the voltage as you start the bike. If the voltage drops below 11VDC, the battery doesn't produce enough current and needs to be replaced.

3. If the battery is able to hold a charge, and the voltage doesn't drop below 11VDC during a start, yet the battery goes dead while riding, then you have a problem with the charging system.

Let us know how you make out with the battery tests and if necessary, we can walk you through checking the charging system. It is common for a battery to fail (even a new battery) but uncommon for the charging system to fail.

 

[trepetti]

OK, if you have a multi-meter please do the following tests:

1. Check the voltage at the battery with the ignition key in the off position. It should be around 12.6 to 12.8VDC. Do this test at least an hour after charging. If it's less than 12.6VDC, disconnect the battery terminals and charge the battery again. Wait an hour and check the voltage again. If it is still low, you need to replace the battery. If it now reads in the normal range, you have a parasite loss (a short) somewhere in the electrical system.

2. If the battery passes the first test, check the voltage as you start the bike. If the voltage drops below 11VDC, the battery doesn't produce enough current and needs to be replaced.

3. If the battery is able to hold a charge, and the voltage doesn't drop below 11VDC during a start, yet the battery goes dead while riding, then you have a problem with the charging system.

Let us know how you make out with the battery tests and if necessary, we can walk you through checking the charging system. It is common for a battery to fail (even a new battery) but uncommon for the charging system to fail.

Step 1 of proper problem solving is to find the problem. Electrical issues can be hard to find, but there procedures that can either find the problem or narrow it down to a few possibilities.. Be safe.

 

[Gary in NJ]

@FeroFazer

What ever happened with this?