I need a DIY maintenance pep-talk

[marke14]

This summer I plan on doing a little multi-day ride with some buddies. I want to put a little work into my bike beforehand.

While I've always been fairly hands-on in terms of basic maintenance with my cars and bike(s), and recently bicycles, my practical knowledge, ability and willingness to perform more complex work has always been limited.

I've owned my '07 since November '07. I've got nearly 24,000 miles and it runs well, no issues. Probably I could hop on the bike and I would be fine for the whole weekend, but I want to keep the bike a while longer and it's time for some maintenance.

I'm thinking I need to replace the plugs but I am intimidated as it seems a big undertaking. I really should have the valves checked and adjusted if required. Should I just suck it up and find a mechanic? If any of the LA/OC guys have a local guy who is reasonable in terms of price, I'd be very interested. Feel free to PM me!

I think I'll change/have my sprockets and chain changed as well. I bought a -1 front, standard rear, and standard chain a couple of years ago and never installed them.

Totally optionally, I also have an LED brake light kit and a Stebel that I should install. The light is a bit of a pain I think, from what I read - some modification to the reflector/housing is required.

Should I find a good mechanic or try do this stuff myself?

Things I will do myself: change my fork oil, engine oil, coolant, and refresh my K&N air filter.

 

[hk_fz6_05]

I'm thinking I need to replace the plugs but I am intimidated as it seems a big undertaking. I really should have the valves checked and adjusted if required. Should I just suck it up and find a mechanic? If any of the LA/OC guys have a local guy who is reasonable in terms of price, I'd be very interested. Feel free to PM me!

I think I'll change/have my sprockets and chain changed as well. I bought a -1 front, standard rear, and standard chain a couple of years ago and never installed them.

Totally optionally, I also have an LED brake light kit and a Stebel that I should install. The light is a bit of a pain I think, from what I read - some modification to the reflector/housing is required.

Should I find a good mechanic or try do this stuff myself?

Things I will do myself: change my fork oil, engine oil, coolant, and refresh my K&N air filter.

Well I'd say try to do most of it yourself. Aside from the plugs and the Stebel I've done all of the above myself and I'm from a not very mechanical background and this is my first bike. You need very basic tools (proper torque wrench, allen wrenches etc) and ze interwebzz. For the valve adjustment see threads on here about either buying a tool (I ended up doing so) or building one for little money. The chain and sprocket change is pretty straight forward as long as you do things the right order and remember the lock nut (also see threads on here) and for the LED tail well it depends on what LED you got - I got a motodynamics taillight and that was a straight swap (again see threads on here).
So consider yourself peptalked og go get in that garage!!

 

[hk_fz6_05]

oh and PS if you're doing a -1 up front consider a speedo healer to keep your speedo readings straight! (for the umpteenth time see threads on here Blah)

 

[dschult2]

Things I will do myself: change my fork oil, engine oil, coolant, and refresh my K&N air filter.

You have no problem changing the fork oil yourself but are intimidated by changing out the plugs? The plugs are child's play compared to the fork oil. Just do a search on this site. There is more than one good thread on how to do it. The socket you need to change them should be your bike's toolkit. Also if your going to change your coolant doing the plugs at the same time is super easy as you can tilt the rad forward a bit to get easy access to the plugs. Another maintenance item I would suggest is a throttle body sync if it hasn't been done.

 

[FIZZER6]

I agree, the plugs are not difficult if you have a DIY guide explaining how to do it and there are a couple on this forum. Plugs are scheduled replacement every 8K miles! I went 12K on mine and they were still ok but at 24K I'd say the copper plugs are probably about shot!

 

[outasight20]

Plugs are really easy, especially if your girlfriend has tiny hands

 

[FinalImpact]

If it has the OEM plugs in it, its gonna be VERY happy with new ones.

Its an easy process; there are two bolts holding the radiator, remove them and let the radiator settle down on the hoses. Its all the access needed.

The OEM tool will work, I prefer my own ratchet, extensions. The downside, is getting your own extension past the frame and into the hole w/out dropping the plug and socket could could damage the plug. A quick solution:

From: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...tion-cure-bad-vibrations-spark-plug-caps.html << Read this, as it should be inspected when doing the plugs.

This piece of hose is a life saver as there are no worries about dropping the plug in the hole. Just lower it down, give it a few spins (yes, it will thread a plug in a turn or two), then pull up leaving the socket and plug behind. Drop in your 4" extension and tighten the plug.

Also a magnet on the flex stick is great for getting the old plug out should it not come up with your socket...

Chain and sprockets:
If you don't have a torque wrench and a chain breaker, the combined expense may be set back. Still cheaper than paying someone else to do it.
I'd say if you feel confident removing the wheels - this should be done at home. You'll also need a socket for the front drive sprocket. So 3 basic tools and your set (not included in Yami tool bag).

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Agreed with all the above posts. You've already gotten your hands dirty.

Plugs (I have an 07 as well) took me maybe 40 minutes taking my time AND getting an inch pound torque wrench in there as well.

Checking valves would probably be the biggest undertaking. If their all in spec, (which most usually are) button it back up and your done. If their out of spec, its a bit more involved (there's plenty of threads).

If pulling cams is too much for you, bring the bike to a trusted mechanic and have him pull shims and adjust. You got at least 50% of the work done up to that point and saved a small fortune..

TB sync, again, buy or build your own tool. Even buying one (I have a Morgan Carbtune- no liquids), it'll pay for itself after the first sync. If you can change your fork oil, you can certainly sync the TB's

There's plenty of knowledgable folks here who can/would help W/O thinking twice.

*Besides the above, unless you know your mechanic, you may get a "newbie mechanic" that knows LESS THAN YOU DO.

Do your research and get to wrenching!:thumbup:

 

[marke14]

Thanks for all the pep talk everyone! I guess I should bite the bullet and just dive it.

To answer a few questions/observations/etc.:

TB sync - I know I need to do this, thanks for the reminder. I will probably buy the tool vs. building one and try to do that as well.

I do have tools. I have a torque wrench even (a real "click" one with a dial and everything - I believe it's a Craftsman). I have a pipe that fits over my ratcheting socket wrench that I use as a breaker bar when I need one.

I have a chain breaker tool. I even have a drive chain alignment tool. I do NOT have a front sprocket tool - I guess I'll need to pick one up.

RE: fork oil, I don't do a very thorough job, but when I did do my oil last time, I borrowed my brother's 12-volt oil pump and used a small steel rod which I used to get the intake tube way down into the bottom of the fork, which I then pumped by hand. I have since removed my center stand which will make this more difficult than it used to be (though I read a post/thread here that suggests that it is OK to support the bike by the headers).

Re: spark plugs ... damn, I guess I am way behind the curve here!!! I thought I read that while you can leave the radiator attached and dangling by the hoses (thanks FinalImpact), I thought you had to remove the airbox and battery as well? Not like that is a huge deal obviously but still ... I have extremely limited free time and all of this stuff adds up.

Fortunately I have some time to get this stuff done; further we have had an extremely mild winter here in SoCal. UNfortunately, I live in a condo complex where we have a parking lot but no garage; I can't really totally disassemble the bike as I'd prefer to be able to. I can, of course, throw the cover over the whole works and lock everything in the house if I need to.

I am glad to hear that most of you guys think that most of these things I've described fit under the "pretty easy" to "easy" category - at least except for the valves.

Re: valves - is the consensus here that this really is required for a bike with about 25,000 miles on the clock? This is definitely the most intimidating of all of these items.

The horn I will probably attempt. Is the Stebel relay really so crappy that I should just replace it off the bat? FWIW, I am considering wiring in a switch so that I could keep my standard, gutless "meep meep" stock horn and be able to switch over to use the "end of the world" Stebel. Probably I would leave it switched over to "apocalypse" mode for emergencies, and I could toggle over to meep-meep mode to say hello or goodbye to folks.

Thanks again for all the advice! Please keep it coming.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I enjoy wrenching. Its satisfying to me to do something myself and the knowing, it was indeed done right. I've seen MANY TIMES my bikes "fixed" under warranty were screwed up big time.

Re the plugs, just loosen the radiator, don't drain, and just tilt it forward. The #1 plug is still easier to access from the right(otherside).

Re the Steble, I've had one on my last three bikes with the original relay, NO ISSUES. I did read way back, issues with it. I've never had one problem and have leaned HARD ON IT at certain times.

I wouldn't bother with the stock horn, you'll be using the wires to the stock horn as the trigger line for the Steble. I did get the harness kit for the install which made it a bit easier installing.

Re the front sprocket, you'll obviously need a large socket for the removal (if you have an air gun, even better-in neutral, let the chain hold it from spinning). If not, pad and stick a steel bar thru the rear wheel against the swingarm(chain still adjusted, axle tight). That will lock up your rear wheel for the sprocket removal install without stressing any internal transmission parts..

I suspect as your confidence builds, you'll be more comfy with most procedures.

Do searches on this forum, there really isn't anything that hasn't been broached..

 

[Maverickv46]

The way I look at it, I would rather know that I tightened every bolt upon reassembly and took care in my work versus the kid down at the bike shop that was trying to get done to go on his lunch break.

First time stuff can be daunting, but invest in a shop manual, look up some guides online and go for it! It was assembled by someone who probably wasnt that technically sound and granted they have more tools than you, but you can get the same information they have nowadays thanks to the interwebs.

I just made the dive into building my own powder coat oven instead of paying someone to powder for me, and bought a vinyl cutter to make my groups decals. Didnt know anything about either of these but now I can pump out quality products and dont have to pay the markup for someone else to do the work!

 

[FinalImpact]

Tip - A bungee cord will hold the rear brake with enough grip to stop the wheel/chain/front sprocket from turning - thus, no potential damage to the wheel.

OR - I've Sat on the bike and done both:
A) Breaker bar to loosen the front nut.
B) Torque wrench to tighten the front nut.

Worked for me and its not as awkward as it might sound if the bike is stable! Its only 61 ft/lbs...

NO CENTER STAND:
So, do you have a rear paddock stand?

I've set my bike on the headers plenty of times, but it has a center stand so the weight on the headers is maybe 50 to 70 lbs tops??? No center stand would mean 90% of the bike weight on the header and being tippy. NOT A GOOD IDEA....

So, w/out a center stand to stabilize and take some of the load, that does make a proper fork job a bit of pain. If you still own the stand, I'd throw it back on. If not, we need some new ideas. Rafters and handle-bars or jack stands and square pipe under the bike. You need something REAL stable somewhere.

Do I hear "loner center stand?"

 

[Jblk9695]

Mark, I have a CarbTune your welcome to use to balance your throttle bodies, also have pit stand if you need it. Let me know.

Jerry

 

[Lefty]

Here's my pep talk Mark....just do it!
I've done most of the maintenance items you listed and with some patience, help from the forum members and your local SoCal hoons you'll have no problem doing any of them. :thumbup:
I've used forum threads along with my workshop manual may of times to get me though a FZ project. I've even had one of our SoCal hoons ship me his chain breaker/riveting tool to to the sprocket and chain replacement. (Thanks John)
But of course I also have the benefit of having Mrs. Lefty to lend me a greasy hand when I need it, along with some "hey moron, you've put that on backwards" enlightenment. She's the only woman I know who can do a jet swap on my Ninja track bike with her eyes closed back in the day. :rockon:

 

[PhotoAl]

Like Lefty says .... just do it.

I did a ton of stuff to my FZ6, all from reading posts, DIY threads and most of all taking my time and letting it be part of the fun of motorcycling. Yea it's nice to take it somewhere and have something done but when you do it yourself, you know how it's been done. You know that the grease on the bearing is the correct type and you made sure to get all of the old stuff and yuck out before it was re-packed. You know that all of the bolts have been tightened to spec and threadlocker was used. I always used the medium strength stuff.

If you run into a problem just ask, there are lots of helpful folks to help.

 

[marke14]

Yes, I have a rear stand - definitely necessary for chain maintenance!

I still have my center stand - WHAT a b**** that was to get off thanks to the retainer spring! I guess if it's a temporary re-install (of the center stand) then the spring is not required and the stand would still do the trick. Thanks for getting me thinking about that ... I hadn't even considered having to pump the damn fork/wheel (what, you didn't think I'd take the wheel off, did you?) while it is balanced on the headers.

That is reassuring to hear about the Stebel relay. I suppose hey, it's a new part (the relay) so might as well use it until it breaks. My friends here know that I am a fair-weather rider and that I don't commute a ton like I used to (use the cage now mostly).

I hear you guys on the self-wrenching aspect. I sort of agree. I work and commute so much that I have very little time for myself. On the weekends, my wife and I take it easy. I realize that this is an entirely self-imposed motivational problem but it truly is a bit of a time-commitment problem as well, as we have a lot of (other) hobbies and are generally very active and busy. I think the thing to do is to break it down into one or two things at a time over many weekends.

Jerry, thanks for the offer of the TB synch-er - I may take you up on that!

:thumbup: everyone

 

[marke14]

Some of my various swag awaiting installation

 

[dolau]

All my spanners are left handed so I leave the oily bits to those that know- especially brakes an chains (once spent a whole day trying to get the front sprocket nut off) but I have changed fork oil and I have done the rear light LED conversion on both of my Fazers

Tackle a little job first and gain confidence in your abilities and then move on as long as you always have another way to get to work in the morning should something go TU

 

[FinalImpact]

Some of my various swag awaiting installation

Do it!!!!!! ^^
PS - when on the center stand, be sure to tie the stand forward so it CAN NOT fold under on you w/out the springs. Grab the cross bar with a rope, maybe run forward through the header cross pipe between 2 & 3 and tie it off.

I'll be having some funz in different way - putting wheel bearings in front of the cage, pull the spindles off and borrow a press to do some mashing! Should make for a great Saturday!

Be safe!

 

[Tailgate]

Of course, before anything, I advise one to get head together. I find cans to be convenient.