Installing my FZ1 bar

[trepetti]

Read the posts and looks like a simple-enough job. Got a new throttle tube and left grip so the only careful disassembling will be the handles and switches. Still deciding if I will go nub or nub-less. Will wait till I get the old bar off and decide then.

I just got the new bar and I notice a little nub sticking out, underneath and just to the right of the bend on the right-hand side. Don't see anything like that on the FZ6 bar, so I assume that I will ignore it.

Going to use the hairspray method on the left grip.

Any gotcha's I need to watch out for?

Thanks

 

[cmantis]

If you need help Eric helped me with mine. We ground down the right side assembly rather than drilling the bar and haven't noticed it moving at all. Just make sure you check clearance before tightening everything back up.

 

[kpolykarpou]

i installed that too.
but.....
i like it . the bike is more beautiful. and more nice look and feel
but.... isnt it a little tired for long rides?
what do you think?
should i go for a different type bar?

 

[Erci]

i installed that too.
but.....
i like it . the bike is more beautiful. and more nice look and feel
but.... isnt it a little tired for long rides?
what do you think?
should i go for a different type bar?

If you find FZ1 bar a bit too aggressive, try FZ6R bar. Same rise as original, but not as much back-bend.. much better on wrists.

 

[motojoe122]

Not much to it but to do it:BLAA:

 

[Lefty]

I did the FZ1 bar switch a couple of years ago and it's made all the difference when it comes to comfort on my wrists and back. I can easily go on multi day 2500 mile trips with no discomfort (well other than my butt by the third day). I actually did the drilling of the hole to match the FZ6 bar for the controls and it wasn't hard at all. Just lay the two bars sisde by side and mark the hole location with a sharpie before drilling. :thumbup:

 

[Erci]

I just got the new bar and I notice a little nub sticking out, underneath and just to the right of the bend on the right-hand side.

On FZ1, that nub is used as a holder for a plastic clip, to route wires. It's safe to just ignore.

I definitely recommend grinding the plastic nubs off. Don't know of anyone having issues with controls moving and with nubs ground off, you have the option to adjust lever angles.

Front brake cable will likely be hitting the fork, in its original position. Loosen up the banjo; rotate the cable up slightly and re-tighten the banjo. DO NOT squeeze front brake while it's loose.

As cmantis mentioned, once everything is in place (tight enough to not rotate on its own, but not fully tightened), turn the handlebar lock to lock and check clearance with the tank. Chances are you'll need to make minor adjustments.

If you've got an air compressor, hair spray is not necessary. I've done quite a few handlebar / grip swaps. Always dry.. never heard of them spin or slip.

 

[david323]

I definitely recommend grinding the plastic nubs off. Don't know of anyone having issues with controls moving and with nubs ground off, you have the option to adjust lever angles.

I drilled and am now thinking about just removing the nub because I'm not quite happy with the angle.

 

[trepetti]

Not much to it but to do it:BLAA:

..Oh how I love a MOFW! :thumbup:

 

[trepetti]

On FZ1, that nub is used as a holder for a plastic clip, to route wires. It's safe to just ignore.

I definitely recommend grinding the plastic nubs off. Don't know of anyone having issues with controls moving and with nubs ground off, you have the option to adjust lever angles.

Front brake cable will likely be hitting the fork, in its original position. Loosen up the banjo; rotate the cable up slightly and re-tighten the banjo. DO NOT squeeze front brake while it's loose.

As cmantis mentioned, once everything is in place (tight enough to not rotate on its own, but not fully tightened), turn the handlebar lock to lock and check clearance with the tank. Chances are you'll need to make minor adjustments.

If you've got an air compressor, hair spray is not necessary. I've done quite a few handlebar / grip swaps. Always dry.. never heard of them spin or slip.

Thanks Eric. I have 2 SS lines to the front brakes, hoping that I get away with it. Otherwise I can rotate the banjos without too much trouble.

No compressor so will be forced to try the hairspray method. I still have a little hair left, so there must be SOME in the house. :BLAA:

Also, I see recommendations to grease the right side for the throttle tube. I have a new tube, so its clean. I have some red bearing grease. Overkill?

 

[motojoe122]

I've never greased the throttle tube, even on the dirtbikes. Something like that you want as clean and dirt free as possible.

 

[Erci]

I've never greased the throttle tube, even on the dirtbikes. Something like that you want as clean and dirt free as possible.

+1. I would expect grease to collect dirt over time and get gunked up. I've always installed it dry, without issues.

 

[trepetti]

Thanks everyone. I completed the install without issue and I absolutely LOVE the change. Not too low but much better wrist position. I tore my grip puppies and am waiting for the replacements, so the new grips feel odd. And I need to rotate the clutch lever to elevate it, but even with these things the bike beeps more agile and comfortable.

I ended up grinding off the nib on the right control and using hairspray to install the left grip

I only have 50 miles on the mod but I recommend it if you are unhappy with the stock bars and you want a more aggressive riding position.


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[Chaotic29]

I researched it awhile back and forgot... but where is the best place to get the fz1 bars from?
the dealer is 2 miles from my house so thats not a problem and an option but where is the cheapest to get the bars from?

 

[Erci]

I researched it awhile back and forgot... but where is the best place to get the fz1 bars from?
the dealer is 2 miles from my house so thats not a problem and an option but where is the cheapest to get the bars from?

Try boats.net or partshark.com

Should be under $40 including shipping.

 

[trepetti]

I researched it awhile back and forgot... but where is the best place to get the fz1 bars from?
the dealer is 2 miles from my house so thats not a problem and an option but where is the cheapest to get the bars from?

I looked at all the on-line OEM parts suppliers and I usually wait for SHS Powersports to run their free shipping deals (orders over $50.00) So I bought my bar, a new left grip and a new throttle tube / grip for about $60.00 no tax no shipping.

 

[kpolykarpou]

Not too aggressive. Its perfect. More easy handled.
But makes me tired at long rides especially in highway. Does anybody else has this ?
Should I go with other type handlebar ?
Renthal etc ? Dimotiv ?

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Erci]

Not too aggressive. Its perfect. More easy handled.
But makes me tired at long rides especially in highway. Does anybody else has this ?
Should I go with other type handlebar ?
Renthal etc ? Dimotiv ?

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk 2

I highly recommend FZ6R bar, if you want to keep original rise, so you do not have to bend as much at the waist, but still want a comfortable bend at the wrists.

Nearly all other bars are made of aluminum and as much as many love them, truth is they vibrate a lot more and since you're looking for comfort on long highway rides, I would recommend sticking with steel bar.

 

[cmantis]

Whats the fz1 bar made of? I have same experience on highway and my right wrist goes numb.

 

[Erci]

Whats the fz1 bar made of? I have same experience on highway and my right wrist goes numb.

It's steel, just like FZ6 and FZ6R. Have you gone for a long hwy ride with go-cruise yet? That should make a tremendous difference.

Some other things you can do would be to add grip puppies (cheap) and HVMP bar ends (expensive).

Adding heavy bar end weights to aluminum handlebars is not recommended (though plenty people do it).