Jerky 1st gear in low rpm

[fyrebug]

Hey there! So I just got an 08 FZ6 last week with 14,000km on it. yay for me!
Anyways. the bike has some weird issues in first gear at low speed. I'm coming from an ex500 so for all I know this is regular witha more sporty engine? please let me know.
at low speed all the way up to 3500rpm the bike is very jerky. I'm not sure how else to explain it and thus not sure how to search for an answer, a little like it's lugging, but worse. the rpm is constant on the tach, but the bike
feels almost like it's pulsating forwards rather than a smooth motion.

looking at receipts from the previous owner he took it into a shop for this issue at 12,000km and they changed the air filter, installed new spark plugs and cleaned the breaks as it said they were squeaky.
they charged him $600+ for this rather minor work (it's canada, we like to bend over and take it from everyone) but the problem is clearly still there, and the brakes still squeak!
I'm sure the brakes just need cleaning or something simple I haven't looked into the cause as I'm more worried about the engine right now.

is this a semi common issue? heard of it before? maybe the chain needs tightening? brakes dragging? oil change? clutch cable not correct tension? other gears seem fine. just first gear. even second gear at lower speeds doesn't seem to produce the issue as much but then starts lugging if I get too slow obviously.

Thanks everyone.

 

[Fishwiz4]

Don't know what to say about the brakes, but the first gear thing is normal. It is not an issue with the transmission, but a throttle input issue. The bike is just a little touchy with the throttle in first gear. You will get used to it, but if you want they do make some devices to help. It's called a throttle tamer. Just ride it for a while and I'm sure it will no longer be an issue. Also..... I only use first gear for starting from a stop I rarely ride in first (sometimes in a parking lot, but I try to use second if it is reasonable).

Welcome to the forum!

Post pics of the new ride!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

 

[ChevyFazer]

Unfortunately these bikes have a "on off throttle" so the only real solution is wrist control, especially in 1st

 

[fyrebug]

hmm, not sure I understand what I could do differently with throttle control.

I'm holding a steady rpm, no throttle movement (for instance holding at 2.5k) but the bike is lurching.


if it's normal it's normal, but that seems weird

 

[Dresnewtoy]

I think it's normal. I have the same issue. I hold the throttle steady but the bike jerks and the exhaust makes that odd burble.

What i do know is that when i twist the throttle, the bike picks up speed like it should without any drama, so that makes me think it's just a 'thing' with these bikes.

I'm relatively new to riding and new to the FZ, so i'm learning new things all the time.

 

[FIZZER6]

Unfortunately these bikes have a "on off throttle" so the only real solution is wrist control, especially in 1st

There is another solution that one learns through experience. When maneuvering at low speeds in 1st gear if you apply light rear brake pressure you can almost completely tame the lurching of the throttle/chain. This is especially helpful when moving <10 mph when applying or releasing throttle and when making low speed turns. I can now control my bike at these low speeds completely with the rear brake and light throttle inputs with zero lurching.

 

[SteveH41]

Yet to ride mine (or have it delivered ) but would a few more revs and a little more riding the clutch help?

 

[fyrebug]

ok, well sounds pretty normal then so atleast I'm not concerned it's going to fall apart.

thanks guys.

right now my method of control at low speeds has been to coast a bit by simply pulling in the clutch. I'll try the braking thing but sounds like you'd wear out the rear brakes much faster by doing that.
very different then the ninja but I'll take a little jerk over a 500cc engine any day. she was good and did the job for almost 3 years. but man, what a friggin difference in overall comfort and ease of handling/use. they say smaller bikes are better for commuting and traffic. I disagree in the case of those 2 bikes anyways.

 

[FIZZER6]

Yet to ride mine (or have it delivered ) but would a few more revs and a little more riding the clutch help?

it would help smooth out your launch at low speeds but when you release the throttle to decelerate in 1st at low speed you have the same jerky issues to deal with...

I'll try the braking thing but sounds like you'd wear out the rear brakes much faster by doing that.

You don't need to use much rear brake, just drag them enough to steady the jerkiness until you are moving stable or until you can pull in the clutch and coast in Neutral. I've ridden like this for the past 10,000 miles, I have 17,000 miles on my bike and the original rear brake pads still have an easy 10,000 miles more. It helps that I don't ride in traffic hardly at all.

 

[YZF73]

it's canada, we like to bend over and take it from everyone

You wouldn't believe how hard I just laughed, honestly...


Yamahaboyz

 

[lomax]

Have you checked the chain for any sticky links ?? Or worn sprockets ??

Just guessing here.

And yes they are a bit twitchy in first but not really bad at all.

Marc

 

[mikw73]

I'd recommend you start practicing with the rear brake on take-off, and in low speed first gear maneuvering. I did a while back and I'm much more comfortable at low speeds now. There are videos of police motorcycle rodeos and a crazy skilled guy on a CBR600 on YouTube that are impressive and educational. As long as you're not braking constantly at decent speed for several minutes straight, you're not going to overheat the brake, and it gives you MUCH more control at low speed. And the rear brake pad will last a very long time under normal riding conditions, regardless. Probably one of the last routinely replaced items to need it. Get a throttle tamer, practice figure-8s at low speed, and you'll be much more confident and competent below 10mph. If you're a new rider, that's a good speed to feel most confident at. It's also a good idea to always consider yourself a new rider, too. And invisible to everything but police radar... OK, </preach>

 

[iSteve]

If it seems excessive you may want to check the throttle body sync.

 

[mikw73]

Yeah, without feeling it we can't say for sure. I am just getting to the point where I could use a throttle body sync, but it's not bad yet. Here's that video of that guy on the CBR600:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9twUAi1Q4o0&feature=youtube_gdata_player"]2010 10 24 ダンロップ ジムカーナ 第5戦 å¿—è³€é¸æ‰‹ CBR600RR 第2ヒート - YouTube[/ame]

He goes faster than we're talking about for most if it, but the control to do that is what I'd like to have.

 

[pookamatic]

That is just amazing.

 

[mikw73]

That is just amazing.

I was awed.

 

[FinalImpact]

So mines the diamond?? It does nothing like any of that stuff and I lug its @ss up hill at idle or punch to 10k and it's smooth and never misbehaves. My ride home from work puts us in every slow poke off idle, up hill, down hill, put-put-put never hit 40mph for 14miles. It's only the last 5 miles I can open it up so I'm surprised everyone says this is NORMAL!

The first three replies I was like woooa - but my god, the way this is being described I'd sooner ride a pedal bike! Mine has no performance mods and sits at the 10,000 mile mark with original plugs and get 44 to 52mpg depending on the trips taken. Overall this engine is nearly buzz free but you feel a little something in the seat at 4000rpms. The comments here don't seem normal to me and if i test drove a bike that did what the OP describes I'd low ball or walk.

Hmm
- Chevron Techron fuel treatment
- gas from a different station
- TB sync
- confirm chain is not to tight (they like it loose to max spec)
- run the cr@p out of it more often. I think they like it!
- hand spin the wheel when the bike is hot - as in just pulled over and confirm no brake drag.
- as for the break squaek; stop from 65mph quickly twice and see if it goes away as the pads/rotors sound to be glazed from never being hot enough.

That's what comes to mind this time around. . .

 

[greg]

it's a bit lumpy at low throttle openings. Best cure is to use a little rear brake and slip the clutch to smooth it out.

 

[ChevyFazer]

So mines the diamond?? It does nothing like any of that stuff and I lug its @ss up hill at idle or punch to 10k and it's smooth and never misbehaves. My ride home from work puts us in every slow poke off idle, up hill, down hill, put-put-put never hit 40mph for 14miles. It's only the last 5 miles I can open it up so I'm surprised everyone says this is NORMAL!

The first three replies I was like woooa - but my god, the way this is being described I'd sooner ride a pedal bike! Mine has no performance mods and sits at the 10,000 mile mark with original plugs and get 44 to 52mpg depending on the trips taken. Overall this engine is nearly buzz free but you feel a little something in the seat at 4000rpms. The comments here don't seem normal to me and if i test drove a bike that did what the OP describes I'd low ball or walk.

Hmm
- Chevron Techron fuel treatment
- gas from a different station
- TB sync
- confirm chain is not to tight (they like it loose to max spec)
- run the cr@p out of it more often. I think they like it!
- hand spin the wheel when the bike is hot - as in just pulled over and confirm no brake drag.
- as for the break squaek; stop from 65mph quickly twice and see if it goes away as the pads/rotors sound to be glazed from never being hot enough.

That's what comes to mind this time around. . .

When you first got it and getting used to the throttle it didn't buck any? I know mine did especially coming off a dl650, hell I think my first post was title "HELP BIKE BUCKING LIKE A BRONCO AND STALLING" of course that wasn't a throttle issue my battery ground was disconnect and bouncing on the battery pole making it "buck"

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So mines the diamond?? It does nothing like any of that stuff and I lug its @ss up hill at idle or punch to 10k and it's smooth and never misbehaves. My ride home from work puts us in every slow poke off idle, up hill, down hill, put-put-put never hit 40mph for 14miles. It's only the last 5 miles I can open it up so I'm surprised everyone says this is NORMAL!

The first three replies I was like woooa - but my god, the way this is being described I'd sooner ride a pedal bike! Mine has no performance mods and sits at the 10,000 mile mark with original plugs and get 44 to 52mpg depending on the trips taken. Overall this engine is nearly buzz free but you feel a little something in the seat at 4000rpms. The comments here don't seem normal to me and if i test drove a bike that did what the OP describes I'd low ball or walk.

Hmm
- Chevron Techron fuel treatment
- gas from a different station
- TB sync
- confirm chain is not to tight (they like it loose to max spec)
- run the cr@p out of it more often. I think they like it!
- hand spin the wheel when the bike is hot - as in just pulled over and confirm no brake drag.
- as for the break squaek; stop from 65mph quickly twice and see if it goes away as the pads/rotors sound to be glazed from never being hot enough.

That's what comes to mind this time around. . .

+1 on the above.

I can let my clutch out (on level ground) with NO throttle and the bike will move on its own, No lurching, jerking, nothing. That's with the idle set at 1,000 RPM's BTW. I do use Seafoam on occassion, do my own throttle sync's (and have them within approx 3mm vs 10mm allowed by Yamaha)


As for rear braking/clutching at the same time:

You hold the throttle steady 3-5,000RPM's, get your clutch just partially grabbing and control your speed with the REAR BRAKE ONLY. This is strictly for slow speed maneuvers/travel, etc.

The above procedure is what is taught in the Advanced Police Motorcycle School (which I attended many moons ago). It is truly amazing to be able to drag the bottom of a full dress HD and make a turn (feet on the pegs) with the steering full lock using this method. Doing the "iron Cross" , figure eights, etc, with a bunch of practice builds you confidence...

One thing to keep in mind, the HD's had crash bars (which were used often!), the FZ, not so, so don't push your skills doing full lock turns as if you dump it, you will tear up the bike...