My FZ6 golf car build

[smallblock450sl]

Don't forget to put dB killers in your exhaust!! :BLAA:

I want it quite, what are DB killers?

 

[smallblock450sl]

Looks good, but wouldn't the drastically different header lengths cause problems with uneven cylinder pressures?

Hope not, really didn't have any choice.

 

[smallblock450sl]

Awesome!!! I have a similar plan of buying an off-road type kart frame and then installing a two stroke 600 cc triple snowmobile engine inside. Sadly my wife told me I was nuts and already have too many toys:spank:

Many guy's put snowmobile engines into golf cars.

 

[zacbkennedy]

sick!:BLAA:

 

[smallblock450sl]

Very cool!

Is that a 9" ford rear end and did you figure out how the rear end gear ratio will work out?

You going to make a foot operated clutch and make the shifter hand operated? The actual shifter should be fun to design and build too...

Don't you need a panard bar to keep the rear end centered?

Yep, a narrowed 9"! Has 3.0 gears in it now and calculated at over 200 mph!!! When I get it going will probably find I'll need 5.0+ gear set to keep it managable. I'm not going 200 mph in a golf car! I maybe crazy, but not stupid. Installed a hydrolic clutch set up. The shifter will be manual (can see spending 800.00 for an electric shifter set up, but would be cool) useing a morse cable. Yes it has a panard bar / ladder bar set up.

 

[smallblock450sl]

Well all done with frame/suspenssion/driveline/electrical. Put some fuel in, turned the ignition switch, turned on the fuel pump, pushed the start button....and "POP" goes the main 30 amp fuse Seems I put the battery in backwards Reinstalled the battery correctly, changed the fuse, went thru the fire up process, but when the start button is pushed, the the starter relay just multiple "clicks"! I'm going to do a search in the forum for starting problem, but wanted to show a few build pix's. Hope I can get this figured out.

 

[Crashz28]

Tap the starter with a hammer I have a spare starter good one and a relay if you need one!

You can also hook the battery directly up to the starter and see if it spins it!

If it does not spin pull the starter disassemble and check the brushes its easy see if they are worn out!

 

[Motogiro]

After you've established that the starter will run and you've got a healthy source of voltage/current from the battery I would start to look at the possibility a module like the starter interrupt/cutout assembly or ECU was damaged from the polarity reversal. Some components may be protected by a series diode that feeds the component only at the proper polarity. If I build an expensive ECU I want a forward conducting diode to protect it from reverse polarity. I hope that's the case here. Since there was over a 30 amp current draw I would suspect that there's a shunt diode (a crowbar) to protect the circuits and blow the fuse or a component failed and conducted high current.



Bad a$$ build!!! :rockon:

 

[Crashz28]

Typically the fuse burns out before the ecu frys! Atleast on the training bikes at Awesome Cycles that I work on the FZ6 might be different!

I also have a good 06 ecu if you need one!

 

[FinalImpact]

Once fuel, spark, cranking is established, those hoses from the throttle body pair need filtered air. They are the idle air. If plugged it won't start or idle till the throttle is cracked open a small amount. The other vent is for the crankcase and it needs fresh air too. In their original home, all of those hoses where inside the air box between the filter and the throttle body inlet.

Once you get it all dialed in AND IF, you're using the OEM harness to power the fuel pump, you'll here it run and prime with key on, all inter-locks = HAPPY!

Good luck and try not break that 9" Ford with an FZ6 Mill! lol

 

[Crashz28]

I know ford 9inch rears are cheap and plentiful but its going to sap a lot of power from the FZ6 motor prob cut the power in half!

 

[Motogiro]

Typically the fuse burns out before the ecu frys! Atleast on the training bikes at Awesome Cycles that I work on the FZ6 might be different!

I also have a good 06 ecu if you need one!

The nature of solid state circuitry is very unforgiving out side of it's range of design and if not protected can be damaged far before the fuse ever blows. Many integrated devices fail with out ever blowing a fuse. Reverse polarity is one of those conditions that a fuse can not protect. What can typically happen is a solid state junction or component fails and conducts high current between positive and negative, in turn blowing the fuse on the circuit the fuse is rated to protect.

The idea of the fuse is to protect other parts of the system from further damage. One example would be fire. The fuse is only designed to blow open when a a specific current overload occurs but can not protect components from incidents of reverse polarity or other anomaly. The component itself would have to be able to conduct in either polarity or be designed to not conduct current in a reverse direction to protect itself.

Many small current circuits are designed to not conduct current in the event of reverse polarity. This is easily done using a diode and essentially reverse polarity is none existent to that circuit.

 

[Crashz28]

The nature of solid state circuitry is very unforgiving out side of it's range of design and if not protected can be damaged far before the fuse ever blows. Many integrated devices fail with out ever blowing a fuse. Reverse polarity is one of those conditions that a fuse can not protect. What can typically happen is a solid state junction or component fails and conducts high current between positive and negative, in turn blowing the fuse on the circuit the fuse is rated to protect.

The idea of the fuse is to protect other parts of the system from further damage. One example would be fire. The fuse is only designed to blow open when a a specific current overload occurs but can not protect components from incidents of reverse polarity or other anomaly. The component itself would have to be able to conduct in either polarity or be designed to not conduct current in a reverse direction to protect itself.

Many small current circuits are designed to not conduct current in the event of reverse polarity. This is easily done using a diode and essentially reverse polarity is none existent to that circuit.

You sound like my Stepdad most of what you said went straight over my head! I have some Oscilloscopes you might be interested in and a function generator!

I never did pick up the electronics and the indepth repairs or how exactly they work! Tracing shorts and the other minor stuff I can do no problem! My stepdad used to repair circuit boards and replace chips and what not he was a genious!

 

[FinalImpact]

Ironically or PLANED, the gear ratios are not that far off. The MASS of said cart may be a bit rough on the FZ clutch tho!

FZ final drive ratio is 46/16= 2.875:1 Our rear tire is roughly 25" in diameter.

Typical final drive cage ratio for non-performance DD = 2.75:1 to 3.50:1 for sportier modes. If you can keep the tire size below 23" you should be OK once you get it rolling. Granted the 9" is massive over kill here, but there are tones of gear ratios available. Like a set of 4.56:1 gears would be cheap and extend the life of the clutch dramatically.


Q? Have you weighed it yet? Good Job! Keep it up!

 

[FinalImpact]

The nature of solid state circuitry is very unforgiving out side of it's range of design and if not protected can be damaged far before the fuse ever blows. Many integrated devices fail with out ever blowing a fuse. Reverse polarity is one of those conditions that a fuse can not protect. What can typically happen is a solid state junction or component fails and conducts high current between positive and negative, in turn blowing the fuse on the circuit the fuse is rated to protect.

The idea of the fuse is to protect other parts of the system from further damage. One example would be fire. The fuse is only designed to blow open when a a specific current overload occurs but can not protect components from incidents of reverse polarity or other anomaly. The component itself would have to be able to conduct in either polarity or be designed to not conduct current in a reverse direction to protect itself.

Many small current circuits are designed to not conduct current in the event of reverse polarity. This is easily done using a diode and essentially reverse polarity is none existent to that circuit.

If the RR was in place it likely too k the brunt of it current wise. It has the diodes and if im not mistaken would be in a clamping mode shunting the current to ground. Does that seem plausible seeings how its being reverse biased? Time will tell what may have been hurt. Mainly the ECU, RR and starter-lockout relay are the active components that wouldn't care for reverse bias.

 

[Crashz28]

Ironically or PLANED, the gear ratios are not that far off. The MASS of said cart may be a bit rough on the FZ clutch tho!

FZ final drive ratio is 46/16= 2.875:1 Our rear tire is roughly 25" in diameter.

Typical final drive cage ratio for non-performance DD = 2.75:1 to 3.50:1 for sportier modes. If you can keep the tire size below 23" you should be OK once you get it rolling. Granted the 9" is massive over kill here, but there are tones of gear ratios available. Like a set of 4.56:1 gears would be cheap and extend the life of the clutch dramatically.


Q? Have you weighed it yet? Good Job! Keep it up!

One thing to note is the R6 clutch is the same so if you need an upgraded clutch you can find one for a 03-05 r6 or a later model R6S and it should work!

 

[smallblock450sl]

Wow, thanks for the posts:thumbup: There's only one wire lead that attatches to the starter, can anyone tell me exactly where it attatch's at the battery area?

 

[Motogiro]

If the RR was in place it likely too k the brunt of it current wise. It has the diodes and if im not mistaken would be in a clamping mode shunting the current to ground. Does that seem plausible seeings how its being reverse biased? Time will tell what may have been hurt. Mainly the ECU, RR and starter-lockout relay are the active components that wouldn't care for reverse bias.

I agree but I don't have an actual component breakdown to say what may have been the large current conductor on the reverse bias but it would seem the RR would be a good guess, The starter interrupt/cutoff unit has relays but there are diodes in that unit used for logic as well as a Zener diode that's probably for an open or wild RR. For example Zener sees overvoltage and tips off the ECU the same way it sees the kickstand down while not in neutral and sends the off logic to the ECU. ECU then stops FI and coils.

This is a very unique build and I can't wait to hear and see it go! :rockon:

 

[Motogiro]

Wow, thanks for the posts:thumbup: There's only one wire lead that attatches to the starter, can anyone tell me exactly where it attatch's at the battery area?

You should be able to momentarily jump it to the positive terminal of the battery with no ill effect. There is a starter relay that the starter wire goes to. You should be able to pull the plug and use a heavy gauge wire to momentarily jump between the 2 heavy wires on that plug. If the starter is good and you have good battery voltage and current the starter will crank the engine. If the starter works then you have to start hunting for other problems.
Good luck!

 

[Motogiro]

You sound like my Stepdad most of what you said went straight over my head! I have some Oscilloscopes you might be interested in and a function generator!

I never did pick up the electronics and the indepth repairs or how exactly they work! Tracing shorts and the other minor stuff I can do no problem! My stepdad used to repair circuit boards and replace chips and what not he was a genious!

You'll for sure gain knowledge in this stuff. Most of my trouble shooting is done with a 12 volt test light! Lol! Nothing too technical most of the time.