Countrygirl
Junior Member
My odometer and rpm gage just quit working. But my neutral light and bright light indicator still works. The back light even works. I checked fuses, but no luck there. I will welcome any feedback.
Odometer problems
- Thread starter Countrygirl
- Start date
Was there any kind of "event" that precipitated this equipment failure? A washing, a tip over, a wheelie/stoppie, a change of headlight bulb?
I'm an absolute twit when it comes to things electrical...so there's my disclaimer... But it does seem to me that since they're not on the same "circuit" -- odometer=wheel, rpm=engine -- it sorta sounds to me like it could be either the respective sending units or the connections for them on the back, or inside of, the instrument panel.
I'd be somewhat surprised if both sending units decided to take a dump at the same time, though I guess it's possible if there were an electrical surge or a short in the system.
So, after finding and checking the connection on the respective sending units, I'd venture into the panel so see if something has come disconnected, shorted/fried.
Or if it's under warranty take it to the dealer and let them sort it.
I'm an absolute twit when it comes to things electrical...so there's my disclaimer... But it does seem to me that since they're not on the same "circuit" -- odometer=wheel, rpm=engine -- it sorta sounds to me like it could be either the respective sending units or the connections for them on the back, or inside of, the instrument panel.
I'd be somewhat surprised if both sending units decided to take a dump at the same time, though I guess it's possible if there were an electrical surge or a short in the system.
So, after finding and checking the connection on the respective sending units, I'd venture into the panel so see if something has come disconnected, shorted/fried.
Or if it's under warranty take it to the dealer and let them sort it.
Countrygirl
Junior Member
I put a new battery on right before I had the problem. Could this have caused a surge in the system. Its not under warranty so I'm on my own. If the sending units are bad, will I have to get a whole new unit? This is my first street bike and I've never worked on one. Thanks for the reply.
W
wrightme43
You may of blown a fuse check all of them carefully, also disconnect blow out and reconnect the connectors under the clutch side inner black fairing. May of came apart or pinched a wire.
I believe all of that is controlled by the smaller connecter but do them both.
I believe all of that is controlled by the smaller connecter but do them both.
Are you sure you checked your backup fuse?
The meter gets power from multiple sources (which would explain why you still have power to your LEDs (neutral etc)... but if your backup fuse is blown, you`d get no power to the meter assembly itself (odo, tach).
Double check and let us know...
The meter gets power from multiple sources (which would explain why you still have power to your LEDs (neutral etc)... but if your backup fuse is blown, you`d get no power to the meter assembly itself (odo, tach).
Double check and let us know...
rsw81
Keep it Kosher
It is very unlikely that changing the battery would have caused a surge that would only kill certain parts of the gauge cluster. Not to mention, those surges are exactly why there are fuses to each electrical component on the bike. They sacrifice themselves to save the more expensive equipment in the case of surges.
I would not only check the connectors going into the back of the gauge cluster, but I would also lift the tank again (since you did to change the battery) and recheck all connectors in that area. There is always the chance that something came loose that you didn't even mean to touch that was near the area you were working on. Be maticulous and even get a second set of eyes/hands to help double check your work after you.
Yeah, what rsw said. Now that you mention the battery, I'm guessin' you may have inadvertently missed something -- something's loose or touching where it shouldn't. Check your battery area and cables first. Make sure no cables are loose, pinched, unattached. And then ditto on the fuses. Check them closely, carefully. If a wire touched something it shouldn't have and caused a short in a circuit then the fuse would go first.
I would seriously doubt that the sending units are the problem at this point.
I would seriously doubt that the sending units are the problem at this point.
I`d bet money it has nothing to do with the battery area... if you have a short, or something loose in that area, you would have more problems than just the odo/tach. Look at the wiring schematic and you`ll see what I mean.
I doubt it is related to a connector either... it would mean you got one pin and only one that is loose within the connector? don`t think so.
Backup fuse... check the backup fuse first.
I doubt it is related to a connector either... it would mean you got one pin and only one that is loose within the connector? don`t think so.
Backup fuse... check the backup fuse first.
My work here is done. 
You're in very capable hands. This board rocks. Keep us posted.
You're in very capable hands. This board rocks. Keep us posted.
rsw81
Keep it Kosher
Where are these "backup fuses" wavex? I only know of the ones in the right rear pod.
There is only one backup fuse and it`s in that fuse box in the "right rear pod" :thumbup:
People seem to always overlook the backup fuse... I guess it`s because of its name
People seem to always overlook the backup fuse... I guess it`s because of its name
Countrygirl
Junior Member
It will be Saturday before I get a chance to check things out. Thank you guys so much for all of the input. As soon as I have it figured out I will let you know. You guys rock!
rsw81
Keep it Kosher
There is only one backup fuse and it`s in that fuse box in the \"right rear pod\" :thumbup:
People seem to always overlook the backup fuse... I guess it`s because of its name
Got it, I misunderstood what you were saying. I thought you were saying there are two sets of fuses for each function of the bike, one being the primary and the other being the "backup". I think what you are talking about are the spare/extra fuses in the right rear pod. Is that correct?
Extra fuses can be bought at radioshack for a couple dollars for something like 6 fuses so that you will have plenty in the future if you find a blown fuse.
:rof:
Rob, your post above is the perfect example of what I was talking about...
- the backup fuse is not an actual backup fuse (it does not back another fuse).
- the backup fuse is not a spare fuse either.
It is a fuse that is actually used (just like the taillight fuse, or signal fuse), but it is called BACKUP FUSE. that is all.
Take a look at the last 3 pages of the Service Manual... you will understand.
Also, FYI, the fuse box under the right rear pod doesn`t hold all the fuses on the bike... there`s a couple more here and there...
Rob, your post above is the perfect example of what I was talking about...
- the backup fuse is not an actual backup fuse (it does not back another fuse).
- the backup fuse is not a spare fuse either.
It is a fuse that is actually used (just like the taillight fuse, or signal fuse), but it is called BACKUP FUSE. that is all.
Take a look at the last 3 pages of the Service Manual... you will understand.
Also, FYI, the fuse box under the right rear pod doesn`t hold all the fuses on the bike... there`s a couple more here and there...
necrotimus
Stop looking at my title!
Edit:That is most confusing but you are right the service manual makes sense.
Last edited:
I agree, this appears to be the main power fuse to the instrument cluster. The starter relay is on top of the battery and appears to have a red/white wire that goes to the instrument cluster. I would check to make sure that this wire is OK, after the backup fuse check if this does not clear problem. I'm no electrical genius, but since this problem started after replacing the battery I would check anything related to that and the instrument cluster. Especially if the backup fuse tests OK and cluster is still dark.
Countrygirl
Junior Member
I rechecked all the fuses and they were OK. I even replaced the backup fuse just to be certian it was good. I'm going to start checking everything else you guys have told me about. I was also wondering if there was a relay somewhere that could have caused my problem. I try to look at the bright side, at least it still runs. You guys rock for all the help you have given me. Will keep you posted.
jjohnson87
Junior Member
Hey guys. I've been reading about the problems. I got one similar to the one. It was 2008 with the last post so maybe someone will help. I have almost the same problem. I took off the front/lights/speedometer. After messing around I put it back together. Well once I was done putting it back together. I found out that the speedometer/odometer is all scattered around. I get everything reading but I cant read rpm/gas/temp gauges. Its like someone pushed to hard on a LCD screen. So I cant tell my rpm/gas/temp? So any help would be great! Thanks J
jmerch44
Junior Member
I'm having problems with my odometer too, I cant seem to stop putting miles on it. LOL. No seriously, I hope everything works out.
