Powder coating woes continue

[AJ Babaganoosh]

I am trying to get my rear sets powder coated and am having a hard time with it. I am wondering if I am doing too much. Those who have done this, please tell me what you removed before powder coating. I have been told that all rubber must be removed. Problem is, I haven't been able to remove any of the rubber except the foot rests! You guys don't seem to be having any troubles at all with powder coating. I must be doing something wrong or trying to do some things that don't need doing. I'm not a mechanic but I'm not a mechanical idiot either. At least I didn't think I was until I started this project. I'm having trouble with 3 things: 1) the joint that connects the shift lever to the shift rod, 2) the rubber around the bushings on the main plates and 3) the rubber backing on the big washers. Here are some pictures detailing the problems. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[AJ Babaganoosh]

One more picture

 

[Hazardous006]

i know when i got my rearsets anodized i had a hard time with those bushings, but i will save u some time. I used a socket that fit just barely thru the hole and onto the lip of the bushing and had a deep well socket on the other side and used a shop press to get them out. You could use a hammer and get it out but it will take longer. When it comes time to put them back in deep freeze them for 24hrs and keep them in there. Pull them out one by one and it will be easier to put back in. But be sure to tape off the inside walls so they dont get powdercoated or it will be a pain to try and fit them back in.

 

[DanG]

The issue with powder coating is that the cure process requires the item to be heated to nearly 200°C, so plastic and rubber might melt at those temps. Bronze, or any other bearing material can be left in there and either taped up or bunged (to keep the paint-powder off it).

Anodising is different in that the workpiece is dipped in a weak acid and then has an electrical current passed through. This causes a hard oxide layer to be built up around aluminium surfaces and most other metallic materials (e.g. steel) to be eroded away.

Hope this helps in deciding what to remove!

 

[madmanmaigret]

i know when i got my rearsets anodized i had a hard time with those bushings, but i will save u some time. I used a socket that fit just barely thru the hole and onto the lip of the bushing and had a deep well socket on the other side and used a shop press to get them out. You could use a hammer and get it out but it will take longer. When it comes time to put them back in deep freeze them for 24hrs and keep them in there. Pull them out one by one and it will be easier to put back in. But be sure to tape off the inside walls so they dont get powdercoated or it will be a pain to try and fit them back in.

If you dont have acces to a shop press AJ, you can also do this method ^ with one of these: Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices you do the same as hazardous says (with the sockets) and instead of a hydraulic press you put it in between the ends of this tool and use an impact wrench to press the bushings out. or if you dont have an impact then you put it in a vise and use a socket and wratchet/braker bar to turn it. also what hazardous says about putting them in the freezer is very helpful. :thumbup:

 

[AJ Babaganoosh]

i know when i got my rearsets anodized i had a hard time with those bushings, but i will save u some time. I used a socket that fit just barely thru the hole and onto the lip of the bushing and had a deep well socket on the other side and used a shop press to get them out. You could use a hammer and get it out but it will take longer. When it comes time to put them back in deep freeze them for 24hrs and keep them in there. Pull them out one by one and it will be easier to put back in. But be sure to tape off the inside walls so they dont get powdercoated or it will be a pain to try and fit them back in.

Thanks for the tip. Worked like a charm! My friend's press wasn't available so I just used my drill press to push on the socket. I had to bump it a few times but after that they pushed right out. Thanks again! One problem down, two to go. Anyone else?

 

[Nooj]

The rubber on the big washers will peel off. you should be able to prize them off with a flat blade screwdriver. They feel firmly stuck on as they are moulded in place onto the washers, but they do come off.

The ball joint on the lever is not removable. I drilled it out, binned it and replaced it with a version that has a grease nipple on it. I tapped out the hole in the lever and used a button head screw with a little Loctite to hold the new ball joint back on. It's stayed on so far and shows no sign of working loose after more than ten thousand miles of riding.

A mate of mine just got his coater to mask off the curved surface of the ball joint with it in place and his works fine. If you take it to a coater who understands bikes you should be able to get them to do a good job, finding a good coater hasn't been easy for me though, I've had to spend a lot of time cleaning up poor workmanship from various places