R6 Fork Triple Tree Modding

FinalImpact

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Looking GOOD! :Flash: :thumbup: :Flash: :thumbup: How's it Ride???

That is is the stock wheel from the FZ or no? So rotor diameter was good for a direct swap?
 

FinalImpact

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I've been on the fence about the R6s or R6r forks for a few months now. Could you maybe put together a parts list of what you used? I'm especially interested in what year/type forks, triple, steer tube and bearings you used. Also, did you swap out the risers you used? The original pictures show the black risers, but the clamp on top of your bars is silver in the last pictures...

If you push it even a little using the WHOLE surface of the tire during your rides; Get off the Fence! :spank:
 

fazil

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I recommend this mod instead of R6S beacuse i converted it from R6S.
And it looks much more better this way.

I didn't have a chance to ride it yet because one of the brake lines is too short and i am waiting for new braided lines.
Wheel is stock Fz6 but i had to change disc rotors, diameter is different.

About risers, i put Rox brand risers on the Outlaw clamps.
No need to grind the frame in this set up. (I've seen other modders grind the frame but i didn't want that)



Parts list for R6R Fork Swap:

-R6R Forks (Year 2009)
-R6R Calipers (Year 2009)
-R6R Triple tree and Yoke (Year 2009)
-R6R Brake Rotors (Year2009)
-R6R Front Wheel shaft (Year 2009)
-R6R Front fender (Year 2009)
-Tapered bearings (Special Fork conversion All Balls Racing)
-Handlebar mounts (Outlaw 22mm)
-Braided brake lines (60cm and 80cm)
-700 ml 5W Fork oil
-Dot-4 Brake oil
-Metal Epoxy JB Weld
-Some home made metal clamps for front headlight bracket and ignition lock

Total money spent:
Around $650 (Including international postage for all these parts)
If i were in the US, costs would be around $400 i think.

I'll post some pictures of the process if you're interested.
 
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fazil

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david323

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I'm wondering if this will work on a faired FZ6 versus the Naked version. Also, does your steering lock still function?
 
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fazil

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I've seen someone made it to a faired one. I don't think it will be hard to do it.

Steering lock is not working and i didn't care about it, may be with some more efford, it can work.
 

lrojasma

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i think that you switch hitted the frame because you are using a USA versión R6 top clamp.

Right now i am modding my bike and i bought two R1 triple clamps, one USA (my mistake) and one Europe (with inmobilizer) versión.

The two of them seems the same, but the switch hole of the european (with inmobilizer) versión is a lot bigger, just like your switch.

Right now i am attemping to do the same mod but with the FZ1 top and lower clamps, i will let you know how it went.

I decided this because the FZ1 naked versión already has the headlight assembly for my FZ6 S2 speedometer, so i think it would be easier to make just a hole for the steering lock than making special custom made brackets.

I do want to do the mod as easily as posible, without any making of brackets and things like that , i want it using only Yamaha stock OEM parts.

Let´s see how it end, i will let you know and all the fórums FYI.
 

fazil

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i think that you switch hitted the frame because you are using a USA versión R6 top clamp.

Some guys from this forum used US version R6 top clamp for their US version (Non immoblised) bikes and they had to grind some of their frame.
I was not sure if the Euro top clamp would fit without grinding frame and i had a US version top clamp, so i modified it. I think Euro version won't fit without grinding frame. If someone disproof that, i want to buy one later.

I don't know anything about Fz1 triple tree. I hope it fits well.
Keep us posted.
 
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slandis

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I don't want to hi-jack, but having done this a couple years ago, I have a list with a slightly better description of parts and years, and part numbers for the AllBalls bearings:

My post from 2011 detailing the process fazil went through...Here

I recommend this mod instead of R6S beacuse i converted it from R6S.
And it looks much more better this way.

I didn't have a chance to ride it yet because one of the brake lines is too short and i am waiting for new braided lines.
Wheel is stock Fz6 but i had to change disc rotors, diameter is different.

About risers, i put Rox brand risers on the Outlaw clamps.
No need to grind the frame in this set up. (I've seen other modders grind the frame but i didn't want that)



Parts list for R6R Fork Swap:

-R6R Forks (Year 2009)
-R6R Calipers (Year 2009)
-R6R Triple tree and Yoke (Year 2009)
-R6R Brake Rotors (Year2009)
-R6R Front Wheel shaft (Year 2009)
-R6R Front fender (Year 2009)
-Tapered bearings (Special Fork conversion All Balls Racing)
-Handlebar mounts (Outlaw 22mm)
-Braided brake lines (60cm and 80cm)
-700 ml 5W Fork oil
-Dot-4 Brake oil
-Metal Epoxy JB Weld
-Some home made metal clamps for front headlight bracket and ignition lock

Total money spent:
Around $650 (Including international postage for all these parts)
If i were in the US, costs would be around $400 i think.

I'll post some pictures of the process if you're interested.
 

fazil

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After install the brake lines, i test ride it and heart some knocking sound from the steering. And i took of the top triple (yoke) to checvk if anything is loose and i saw that the existing Fz6 top bearing seal didn't fit properly. So i put a washer on the upper bearing and put the bearing seal again. Then put steering bolts and top yoke on. Now the knocking is gone but, steering stem is a littler bit short to tighten the top triple crown bolt.

I torqued it to 60 nm.

yoke.jpg



Do you think is it safe to ride like this.
 
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FinalImpact

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After install the brake lines, i test ride it and heart some knocking sound from the steering. And i took of the top triple (yoke) to checvk if anything is loose and i saw that the existing Fz6 top bearing seal didn't fit properly. So i put a washer on the upper bearing and put the bearing seal again. Then put steering bolts and top yoke on. Now the knocking is gone but, steering stem is a littler bit short to tighten the top triple crown bolt.

I torqued it to 60 nm.

yoke.jpg



Do you think is it safe to ride like this.

I DONT know the spec, but if 60nm is it and it only lacks a few threads, it should be fine.

You do have a couple other options; the jamb nut under the triple could be machined down, you could machine down the triple to recess the top nut.
I'd locktite it if it were mine.
 

eugenions

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After install the brake lines, i test ride it and heart some knocking sound from the steering. And i took of the top triple (yoke) to checvk if anything is loose and i saw that the existing Fz6 top bearing seal didn't fit properly. So i put a washer on the upper bearing and put the bearing seal again. Then put steering bolts and top yoke on. Now the knocking is gone but, steering stem is a littler bit short to tighten the top triple crown bolt.

I torqued it to 60 nm.

yoke.jpg
man please keep posting. this mod you did there is very nice. I'm looking forward to do this for a while and hadnt seen anyone who had done this mod with such quality as you did. your bike looks great, please post some more pictures of it. cheerz from brazil
ill try to buy the R6 forks and tripple on the ebay
Do you think is it safe to ride like this.
 

eugenions

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Thanks for the appreciation.
3K miles and everything is perfect after conversion.
I recommend it.

man thanks to you i'm just one step away from doing this mod to my fz6
the only thing I need is to buy the parts, i'm already decided to do the changes
here's a pic of my fz6 nowadays
65020_10200714369767052_83263715_n.jpg

please post some more photos of you fz6 man, it looks awsome but we've seen so few pics of it.
cheerz
 

fazil

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Your bike looks awesome with black frame and Grey Fuel tank.
I can post some more pictures in a few days.
This weekend i'll try to put on my new ohlins shock.:D
 

PDX_Piggy

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After install the brake lines, i test ride it and heart some knocking sound from the steering. And i took of the top triple (yoke) to checvk if anything is loose and i saw that the existing Fz6 top bearing seal didn't fit properly. So i put a washer on the upper bearing and put the bearing seal again. Then put steering bolts and top yoke on. Now the knocking is gone but, steering stem is a littler bit short to tighten the top triple crown bolt.

I torqued it to 60 nm.

yoke.jpg



Do you think is it safe to ride like this.

I have the same triples on my 06' and also the All Balls bearings. I used the supplied dust shield on the top and my stem but fits perfectly. There should be no need for the washer. Is everything seated correctly? Mine knocked when I first installed everything because I didn't properly seat everything. Torque to specs, ride it, them come back and recheck everything. Riding will let everything settle down to where it needs to be. What did you do about steering stops?

- Z
 
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