Somethin Black

FinalImpact

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Adding this: just in case someone has one laying around!

http://www.600riders.com/forum/bikes-parts-wanted/48123-wtb-oem-rear-spring.html hint the shop has my spring and I need the bike mobile.

All,
I'm looking for someone who has a rear S2 spring - the stock one so I can get my bike moved. Local 48 states only.

I don't need it so desperately as to pay an arm an leg, so $25 shipped is my limit of course I'll gladly pay less. Or throw in the whole shock if you like so I don't have to have the spring installed just to get my bike home to work on it. Thanks

Date: 2013-03-02

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motojoe122

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Adding this: just in case someone has one laying around!

http://www.600riders.com/forum/bikes-parts-wanted/48123-wtb-oem-rear-spring.html hint the shop has my spring and I need the bike mobile.

All,
I'm looking for someone who has a rear S2 spring - the stock one so I can get my bike moved. Local 48 states only.

I don't need it so desperately as to pay an arm an leg, so $25 shipped is my limit of course I'll gladly pay less. Or throw in the whole shock if you like so I don't have to have the spring installed just to get my bike home to work on it. Thanks

Date: 2013-03-02

Tag JJD952

Mine is only a phone call away:thumbup:
 

seneca

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Hi there,
first of all: Sorry for my horrible English.
I've read the full post and have to tell you something that perhaps has been covered before...
The R1's and R6R's shocks (ohlins included) are designed NOT to be attached directly to the swingarm, this means that the spring and damp hidraulic systems are prepared to work with less loads. There is a specific model that fits the S2 with 2 adjusting options. I strongly recomend to look for it.
By the way, nice post you've created.
Cheers
 

FinalImpact

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Hi there,
first of all: Sorry for my horrible English.
I've read the full post and have to tell you something that perhaps has been covered before...
The R1's and R6R's shocks (ohlins included) are designed NOT to be attached directly to the swingarm, this means that the spring and damp hidraulic systems are prepared to work with less loads. There is a specific model that fits the S2 with 2 adjusting options. I strongly recomend to look for it.
By the way, nice post you've created.
Cheers

Well aware of this thank you! This started as a CHEAP alternative and became something ELSE!! lol
 

FinalImpact

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Re: Somethin Black // MORE BLACK!!!!

Check this out:

YAMA BLACK
Item: PMB-5718

Description:
A black with a metallic finish
Prismatic Powders: PMB-5718 YAMA BLACK

attachment.php


Tags:
Yamaha Black metallic powder coat

>> Hint: http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/31241-how-remove-top-triple-painting-fz6n-pic-heavy.html

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...-can-i-unplug-ignition-switch.html#post526109
 

FinalImpact

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I resprung mine with Hyperpro's progressive set. If you have a few min, maybe you can sit on my bike and give your assessment of how it's set up.

Best I can say is measure the sag and start a log. With the info recorded, if something changes now you can compare and know what/why etc, but more than happy to take a look.

Keep in mind that the expectations from our bikes may be different and that's OK!

^^ Not sure how I didn't see this post last night. Strange!
 

darius

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Best I can say is measure the sag and start a log. With the info recorded, if something changes now you can compare and know what/why etc, but more than happy to take a look.

Keep in mind that the expectations from our bikes may be different and that's OK!

^^ Not sure how I didn't see this post last night. Strange!

Understood. Yep, I'm still trying to get a comfortable and safe setup. I've a feeling it's a bit uneven at the moment.

Before I swapped springs, the rear was much too harsh even at the lightest pre-load setting. The stock spring has 4k miles on it.
 

FinalImpact

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I'd like to take a moment and say thanks to Chris (aka darius)!!! He was kind enough to give me a spring so the bike can be moved. Thanks Chris!

Ironically looking at his bike we found the rear shock bolt loose. Better now than later.

EDIT: And Joe too for offering up his springy thingy too!
 
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darius

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Thanks, Randy. Great to meet you. I'll try getting the bastard thing off tomorrow.

I appreciate your help checking out the suspension and the free safety check that came with it. Let's see if I can't break anything else! :eek:
 

darius

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I executed your suggested plan of attack on the stripped shock nut, tapping a screw driver behind its washer. With that it came off easy with the socket.

The threads on both the bolt and nut were all messed up. $9 in parts in parts from Yamaha on the way.


Also, trying to make sense of those sag numbers.
The measurements you wrote down were:
Front: 25.5cm - 13cm = 12.5cm
Rear: 60cm - 47cm = 13cm

That's way too high so that can't be right. Supposed to be 12.5mm, 13mm?
According to other threads, street suspension should be 30mm-35mm. I'm confused! :confused:
 

FinalImpact

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^^ me too.

Then again it was a seamstress tape so maybe that screwed us up?? lol

Post #32 about 1/2 way down. We did the right action, so I have to ask what are the part numbers on your springs? I'd like to look at the rates front and rear. http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/36842-somethin-black.html#post461560

Yes, ideal is mid 30's for pleasure riding. Mine is set a at 31 mm Front & 29 mm rear. It can be bit jarring on long runs (300 miles) but for sport playing, I like it there.

Not sure what to think. Measurement failure?? :confused: :eek: Start a new thread and lets look into it but it certainly didn't move 130mm
 

FinalImpact

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Well, with shock out of reach for a bit, time for some powder coat. Here is good way to hold the triple for drilling it. Takes just one person.

Bottom line; Remove the bars, Remove the nut (1-1/16" socket works fine), loosen the top pinch bolts, remove the cable holder once the triple is loose and WALLA - Flip it over and secure it too the fork leg. It is now stable for drilling or grinding or punching. Pick your battle. I didn't want sparks flying or I would have slotted it. There is ample room to slot and NOT cut into the triple. Also the harness is long enough to flip and secure it.

Fork Stanchion Holding Triple for drilling process:
47014d1362948636-q-remove-top-triple-can-i-unplug-ignition-switch-pimg_20130309_151550_916-jpg


DRILL IT! NOTE: there are vent holes in the bottom of the switch. I covered them with tape before drilling the second bolt out. Those chips don't belong in the switch!
47015d1362948971-q-remove-top-triple-can-i-unplug-ignition-switch-pimg_20130309_152417_495-jpg


DONE! Notice Magnet in the paper bag collecting chips!
47016d1362948971-q-remove-top-triple-can-i-unplug-ignition-switch-pimg_20130309_152755_697-jpg


Now to powder coat.. .. ..
 
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FinalImpact

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Re: Powder Coat Laser Black Mix

2013-03-16 Powder Coat Day:

All went well and I got all my parts done. One thing that went bad was the brake lever bushing had a melt down in the oven. I thought it was some kind of bronze bushing but it has some plastic impregnated into and it melted into a pool at 405F after cooking for 15 min. In short I may need a new bushing. :(

Oh - and Yama Black from the guys up there - well its not exactly black. More like Yama Brown! I didn't use it. So I mixed Lazer Black and something that was satin black and got this which is really close to the OEM black as seen by the passenger rear set in the picture.
47119d1363486843-somethin-black-dsc_6484web2-jpg

47120d1363488676-somethin-black-dsc_6499-web2-jpg


How to fail at indoor photography!!! lol When its all back together and in the SUN, I'll take better pic!!! At least the SILVER TRIPLE IS GONE!!! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
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FinalImpact

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Melty to the Bushing.. .. .. as in who knew it was plastic inside or teflon or and what ever it is.

Anyway - to keep the PC out, it had tapered silicone plugs in it from both sides. When I pulled them out, it there was a molten puddle of goo in the middle between the plugs.

Lastly - if you don't order the security bolts for the ignition key, 8mm X 1.25 pitch X 20mm is what you'll want to install the lock again.

47138d1363542634-somethin-black-img_20130317_meltybushing1-jpg

47139d1363542634-somethin-black-img_20130317_meltybushing2-jpg


Random picture:
47140d1363542634-somethin-black-img_1025web-jpg
 
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NorCal FZ6

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Looks great dude!:thumbup:I hear you I ended up baking my pedal lever as well. Some how, mine ended up ok and still lubed. Hardly a science... But a roll of the dice.

As for the floating rubber bushings/sleeves that mount to the rear sets. I didn't have a press tool. So I ended up using a socket, a dead blow hammer, a rag, a cable/wire spool as a table, and some oil. Re- mounting the same bushings/sleeves back into the rearsets was even tougher and extremely delicate. I pretty much did the same method to put back on. Only I used a dremel to take down some of the powder coat surface in the re-mounting holes. As I said very delicate, and potentially dangerous. Even though I did this myself. I wouldn't recommend this method. All in all my stockie rear sets came out great and sturdy. as for the chrome washers, with the silicone rubber backs I simply delicately removed the rubbers, powder coated the washers then Shoe Goo'd the rubbers back on them with Shoe Goo black. I figured the shoe goo was made with stand the elements.
 

FinalImpact

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^^ Thanks!

I wrapped the heim joint in a ball of foil and Preheated the lever with a torch taking it to 375F and threw it in the oven. The joint was in and out of the oven in 12 min and was not even warm when extracted! It never knew what hit it! :thumbup:

The rubber mounts; I baked them. I have replacements but they seem fine and never even smoked! ha! Considering they are vulcanized at high heat a short blast didn't have any immediate effects so we'll see what happens. PS - if you have to remove them, use an 1/8" drill to drill into the outer sleeve. This will allow it to collapse and fall out. Now you only need to press in the new ones.

Now then, that bushing for the brake shaft - that caught me by surprise. The shaft is very loose in that bushing and a new one is on order. It had a silver lining and a smooth bore before being heated. It has been compromised! :eek:
 
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