Sprocket Brands/Durability

[FlyguyCFI]

So I'm looking to do the o-so-famous -1/+2 sprocket mod and can't decide on a brand. I see the deal on ebay with the vortex(i think) rear and some other front sprocket and chain, but I've heard the aluminum sprockets wear out much faster. Anyone have an experience with this?

What brands/combinations do you have?

Where did you get them?

I've found various sites that sell the things individually, but I guess I dont know enough to buy them separately...yet.:thumbup:

 

[opds9091]

I bought the 520 conversion with the -1 +2 and the rear sprocket was black and the chain is red from sum of all parts. I think it's one of the best mod's. They also give you option's on the color of rear sprocket, and there are 3-4 different types of chains to choose from. I choose the VORTEX.

 

[SovietRobot]

I bought a vortex front and I plan on buying a vortex cat5 rear. The front is nickel plated steel, looks durable.

 

[FlyguyCFI]

Oh ok I had heard that 'The Sum of All Parts" wasnt that great but since you got it and the kit seems good I think i'll go with that! Thanks!:rockon:

How noticable was the difference? I got the PCIII, K&N, and Scorp slip-on and that was a pretty big difference...

 

[oscarg85]

is the conversion -1 in the front going to give me more torque, but less final speed? how much speed would it take the -1 in the front??

 

[opds9091]

it's just the opposite, by going -1 in the front the tire will spin faster giving you more top end and less torque. To get more torque you would go -2 in the rear. I did the -1 +2, and rather the power-band being at 5-6k, it gives the torque right of way. You will notice a dramatic difference.

 

[FlyguyCFI]

Don't you mean the other way around?

If you are running 10,000rpm with a 15T(vs 16T stock) front sprocket it wont pull as much chain through so the rear tire isn't going to spin as fast.

What RPM are you at at like 50/70 mph?

 

[mattcosta7]

it's just the opposite, by going -1 in the front the tire will spin faster giving you more top end and less torque. To get more torque you would go -2 in the rear. I did the -1 +2, and rather the power-band being at 5-6k, it gives the torque right of way. You will notice a dramatic difference.

- Front, + Rear = More power at lower speeds, since the engine is operating at a higher rpm per speed. More Accel, less top speed (but since the FZ is only capable of 150mph from the factory, it doesn't need gearing to 170!)

I love the -1/+2 change personally. It should be 15/48 from the factory!

+ Front, - Rear = More power at higher speeds, since the engine runs at lower rpm for a given speed. Less Acceleration, more top end (not needed on the FZ since HP wise it won't ever get to the 170 it's geared to do)

 

[SovietRobot]

YOU ARE NOT CHANGING THE HORSEPOWER OR TORQUE BY CHANGING THE FINAL DRIVE RATIO.

With a smaller sprocket on the countershaft, and a larger sprocket on the rear wheel you are getting a higher gear ratio, which causes the engine to rev up faster, taking away top speed.

 

[Hellgate]

Think of it this way, you are creating a close ratio transmission. The gears are closer together so you go through them quicker.

Easier wheelies, quicker 0-100, more shifting, higher rpm in top gear at a given speed, less top end. All good things if that is what you are looking for. If you are touring, probably not a good thing.

 

[reiobard]

i have always used and been happy with Sunstar brands, it is what comes stock and lasts really well...