Starts and Dies. HELP!

[BloodsweatnGears]

Pressure should be building up to 36PSI or so.

Seems the pump is easily getting you there(a good thing), and the regulator is dropping the pressure so the injectors don't have the pressure to make it into the cylinder(s).

From post #26;

Did you remove the PR and push it off is seat? All it takes is a tiny fleck of crap to keep it from sealing and the pressure just leaks.... Wipe seal with Q-tip if need be.

I removed it from the plastic housing yes. Removed the o ring and as you can see in the last image i have it removed and hooked up to an air pressure line and a pressure gage. Is that what you mean by unseating it? By visual inspection it seems to be unable to be dissassembled any further.. I cannot blow air through it via my mouth but 20psi from the air gun is blowing right through.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I removed it from the plastic housing yes. Removed the o ring and as you can see in the last image i have it removed and hooked up to an air pressure line and a pressure gage. Is that what you mean by unseating it? By visual inspection it seems to be unable to be dissassembled any further.. I cannot blow air through it via my mouth but 20psi from the air gun is blowing right through.

I've never had one apart so I can't comment.

Check post #3;
http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...rwords.html?highlight=fuel+pressure+regulator

About 1/4 way down shows a pic of the stock pressure regulator;
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...uel-pump-battery-charging-brake-bleeding.html

 

[FinalImpact]

Damn fpr wont even hold 20 psi...

Just to confirm...at 20 psi no air should be being released from the fpr correct?

Correct. If the seal is deformed once debris is removed, it may take some time for it to reform. Hot water may help.

I would say it is the source / cause of no start.
When the injectors are only open few milliseconds (idle), without meeting design pressure, the engine won't have sufficient fuel to run.

If FPR stuck, you can see how it could cause it to flood also.

 

[FinalImpact]

When i looked here earlier, guess i missed a page and didnt see the full story. Valve is not serviceable. Correct.

About the best you can do is Push it in (from the outer o-ring side) AGAINST the springs pressure. Then use an air gun to move any debris from the seat. Forcing hot water through it may help the most if you can not get a tool in there to dislodge whatever's stuck.

Once you think you've got it. Repeat 40 psi pressure test. It should hold.

 

[BloodsweatnGears]

After the Royals game ill give it a shot. Any leads on where to pick up a new one?

 

[FinalImpact]

After the Royals game ill give it a shot. Any leads on where to pick up a new one?

No idea why they didn't make the assembly serviceable other than its a money maker with its 4 main components!...
- housing
- float / - meter asm
- pump / - filter
- P/R

Just don't grab one from an R6; its like 46 PSI and that would lead you to the opposite problem (too much fuel).... An FZ6R will work tho!

PS - THANKS for that solo pump test! It confirms what I suspected all along! This pump is used in MANY APPLICATIONS! Some at 50/60PSI! So many people payed like 300 - $450 on a whole new asm when a $35 motor would have done the job!
​

Just push the valve off its seat and BLOW LOTS OF AIR AND fluids through it from either or both directions. Unless the spring rusted and broke it should recover!

 

[BloodsweatnGears]

No idea why they didn't make the assembly serviceable other than its a money maker with its 4 main components!...
- housing
- float / - meter asm
- pump / - filter
- P/R

Just don't grab one from an R6; its like 46 PSI and that would lead you to the opposite problem (too much fuel).... An FZ6R will work tho!

PS - THANKS for that solo pump test! It confirms what I suspected all along! This pump is used in MANY APPLICATIONS! Some at 50/60PSI! So many people payed like 300 - $450 on a whole new asm when a $35 motor would have done the job!
​

Just push the valve off its seat and BLOW LOTS OF AIR AND fluids through it from either or both directions. Unless the spring rusted and broke it should recover!

No problem. It initally ran past 70psi before I hit the kill switch. She stabilized at mid 60s though holding the pressure...

Update. Dry testing after boiling the fpr and then spraying her out with up to 155 psi (trying to blow debris out) I was able to back her down and test again. Dry no liquid. Up to about 34 psi before she started leaking... just re assembled the whole unit and tested it wet. Back to 9 psi...

 

[BloodsweatnGears]

Dry test again proved 34 psi limit...

Leaving only the o rings or assembly itself. I will pick o rings tomorrow to test my theory hopefully I find a few in the correct sizes.

If anybody would like any pictures or individual tolerances tested or checked lemme know.

 

[FinalImpact]

Dry test again proved 34 psi limit...

Leaving only the o rings or assembly itself. I will pick o rings tomorrow to test my theory hopefully I find a few in the correct sizes.

If anybody would like any pictures or individual tolerances tested or checked lemme know.

Are you saying the OUTSIDE O-ringy is bad? Some how I don't think so. And it looks impossible to replace the inner which should be something very durable. Viton? Its its hard and used in that way. MACRO - Close up!

Post it all! Tight intimate origins of a bikes inner workings help us understand!

lol

 

[BloodsweatnGears]

Are you saying the OUTSIDE O-ringy is bad? Some how I don't think so. And it looks impossible to replace the inner which should be something very durable. Viton? Its its hard and used in that way. MACRO - Close up!

Post it all! Tight intimate origins of a bikes inner workings help us understand!

lol

Let the o rings soak in hot water over night... reassembly was a bit tigter. Holds at 38ish psi....

Ill re assemble and give her a shot...

Update. Still wont run. Gonna pul rails and injectors to clean next

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Let the o rings soak in hot water over night... reassembly was a bit tigter. Holds at 38ish psi....

Ill re assemble and give her a shot... need to find an image on how that seal goes between the tank and pump now

PM "waterbear", he just put a new tank on his bike and had to mess with the large o-ring.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/buyer-seller-feedback/55153-townsendsfjr1300-awesome-seller.html

I forgot which way it went, but I believe the smooth part faced the pump. You should be able to see some marks/indentations to help confirm the orientation..

 

[BloodsweatnGears]

Yeah. Got it figured out and on
Still won't run... sounds like its closer than before but no dice.. pulling fuel rails and injectors next

 

[FinalImpact]

So you're saying the pumps pressure output maintains above 30PSI so the pump is fixed? That is not clear to me.
Any chance the pump body has a fracture - is leaking?

Injector Flush:
What I have done in the past is to apply 12V to injector and REVERSE FLUSH them. 1st with air. Then solvents.

You can leave them on the rail if you like. Its safer this way as the strainer on the injector can't go flying out and get lost. Just apply 12V to each, one by one. Limit ON TIME TO 30 Seconds Max. Allow to cool 30 sec. I would not advise anything greater than 60PSI.

Once air blast from Outlet Side is done to each, Set compressor to like 60 PSI, fill a 3 ft hose with solvent (NOT GAS, its going to atomize and make a fine mist), insert air nozzle into hose connected to outlet of injector and apply pressure. Solvent will extract some crude out of the injector. Once that is done to all 4, do it from the fuel rail side and inspect the pattern. You might drop PSI to 45 or so.
Each should spray an equal pattern. Then when power is removed. A 40 PSI test to the rail should not cause any injectors to leak with pressure applied.

PS - do not APPLY Steady 12V for more than a 30 Seconds at time. You can overheat them and damage them. Esp without fluid moving to cool them.

 

[BloodsweatnGears]

The fuel pump appears to be working fine! Shes back in the tank and keeping pressure great with gasoline. So i believe thay step to be done. Next will be the fuel rail and injectors

 

[Snake1980]

Good evening everyone
I'm really desperate.
I ask your help.

I have a yamaha fz6 n 2004 and I disassembled the fuel pump.
When I removed the pump motor are also removed two pieces:
1 oring
1 piece of plastic
Now I can not more to replace the fuel pump.
These two pieces are to be united?
Will you send me photos of the correct assembly.
Thank you all

I attach photos to better explain the problem

 

[BloodsweatnGears]

it actually fits just how you have it. The plastic sleeve does not fit into that rubber grommet it acts as a spacer to keep the fuel pump from pressing into far

 

[BloodsweatnGears]

Oh and just as a generic update... SHES ALIIIIIVEEEE

 

[tom_nuke]

Can you give us an update on what the ultimate fix was? Was it the fuel pump? Or further down the fuel system?

Thanks!

 

[FinalImpact]

Can you give us an update on what the ultimate fix was? Was it the fuel pump? Or further down the fuel system?

Thanks!

Fuel pressure Regulator INSIDE the Pump Housing would not seat (seal). It had an internal leak and dumped all the fuel into the tank, never building 36PSI needed to run proper. Cleaning and repeated flushing corrected the issue by dislodging debris from the seat so tit would seal again. :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

Fuel pump alone was way over 70psi and held above 60...
This was using stock wiring as well hoping to eliminate a voltage drop issue ( if one was present and keeping the pump from running correctly)

on to the fpr again

Bump for Tagging:
JJD952 Fuel Pump Pressure Test
@Bruno1989

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/55110-starts-dies-help.html
http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...em-wont-rev.html?highlight=pressure+regulator