IMO a leak down test is more time consuming and because our hunch is the engine is out of time, now you have to position the crank at some unknown rotational degree TO CLOSE THE VALVES AND DO THE TEST!
Compression test:
What if the compression just happens to be above 150 psi, that would be good to know, yes? And if they are all equal, now we know a lot more than we did before 10min after the first test.
This is an interference engine and it's very likely that if one intake or exhaust valve is bent, all of the I or E's are bent. That said, with the valve cover off you check the lash when the lobe is away from the bucket (dont know where the crank is, it's out of time) but if it has some huge gap, the valve is bent and you know you have big issues.
Anyway there are countless ways to skin this.... fuel was added and it seemed to run. It has some compression.
Screwing a gauge in and pushing the button is pretty easy and that is the path I would take. Hopefully all the values are the same. If low, pull the cover and verify the marks are out of alignment, check the lash to confirm the valves have not kissed the pistons.
Lastly, this is not ours to do. These are simply options and the path I would follow using basic hand tools and a compression gauge. One could gather all the info they need to resolve this in an hour and a half.
Good luck.
Compression test:
What if the compression just happens to be above 150 psi, that would be good to know, yes? And if they are all equal, now we know a lot more than we did before 10min after the first test.
This is an interference engine and it's very likely that if one intake or exhaust valve is bent, all of the I or E's are bent. That said, with the valve cover off you check the lash when the lobe is away from the bucket (dont know where the crank is, it's out of time) but if it has some huge gap, the valve is bent and you know you have big issues.
Anyway there are countless ways to skin this.... fuel was added and it seemed to run. It has some compression.
Screwing a gauge in and pushing the button is pretty easy and that is the path I would take. Hopefully all the values are the same. If low, pull the cover and verify the marks are out of alignment, check the lash to confirm the valves have not kissed the pistons.
Lastly, this is not ours to do. These are simply options and the path I would follow using basic hand tools and a compression gauge. One could gather all the info they need to resolve this in an hour and a half.
Good luck.
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