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Suspension service (rebuild fork / shock )

Erci

Howie Mandel's evil twin
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Any recommendations for suspension service? The 05 R6 I picked up.. I've no doubt that fork/shock have never been serviced. Stock springs are very close to what I need for my weight, so I just want to get fresh oil in the legs and service rear shock before next season.

Can anyone recommend a good place (ideally in NJ or near, so I wouldn't have to ship).

What tools would I need to do the fork myself? (I'm fairly handy and have done lots of suspension work on downhill mountain bikes.. none required special tools though)

Thanks!
 
Any recommendations for suspension service? The 05 R6 I picked up.. I've no doubt that fork/shock have never been serviced. Stock springs are very close to what I need for my weight, so I just want to get fresh oil in the legs and service rear shock before next season.

Can anyone recommend a good place (ideally in NJ or near, so I wouldn't have to ship).

What tools would I need to do the fork myself? (I'm fairly handy and have done lots of suspension work on downhill mountain bikes.. none required special tools though)

Thanks!

Markbiltracing.com
They were there at the track when you and I went. His shop is very close to njmp. I plan to send my stuff there.
 
I have helped my brother rebuild the forks on his Bandit a while a go. Those were regular forks though. Not the inverted ones.

For the regular ones you would usually need a forkseal driver to get the forks back together but my brother found some DIY guide that pretty much just called for the use of the PVC pipe instead. We changed the oil and the fork seals. It can be daunting if you're in experienced as we were but doable for a Saturday afternoon in the garage.

EDIT:

See this video.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7TrhGN3Bu8"]Replacing fork seals on inverted forks. Part 1 of 2 - YouTube[/ame]
 
Last edited:
Here's a couple local-ish to you

In CT- https://www.facebook.com/AdvancedTraction

In Boston- GMD Computrack Boston

I've never done inverted forks, but conventional ones are pretty easy - special tools are an impact wrench and a seal driver (PVC). I'm sure there's tons of how-to's online for inverted forks. If your seals and bushings are good, just new fluid is probably pretty easy.
 
Used PVC on some regular forks on my old Hondas. Works great and is way cheaper than the $50 brass tool. Then again, it was basically a stantion, tube assembly, and spring.... One of those "toleraces are close enough" kind of deals.

Haven't rebuilt the FZ6 forks yet, though. Could be different.
 
If your seals and bushings are good, just new fluid is probably pretty easy.

Seals are not leaking and there's no play, but they are 9 years old. Might be wise to do them while the fork is apart. I'll check out how-to's and decide if I wanna mess with it. Thanks!
 
For the cost, I would almost always replace seals if I have the forks apart. They're what.... $20? Especially at that age. Get yourself an older bike where all the rubber parts are petrified or dry rotted and you'll see why it's way less @$$-pain to do it a bit at a time rather than all at once.
 
Eric, do these forks have Hi-speed bleeds on them?
If so you might want to grab some basic veneer calipers so you can measure depth easily and not have to guess. It makes getting it back to factory spec easier. Have you grabbed a FSM yet?

Also, Harbor Freight has some basic bushing drivers that would make bushing install easy. A bushing cutter common to Transmission shops makes taking them out a snap too. This one is pretty flat, but a bench grinder will solve that. Bushing Cutter, 7 1/4"
View attachment 51039 View attachment 51040

This tool, if sharp just takes cut right out of the bushing doing no harm to cavity its in. Effective when you don't have the exact size to drive it out.

AS for PVC - pipe. If you go that route for seal install, slicing vertical cuts in the pipe with a saw and then fitting it with a hose clamp gives it a good range of adjustability to fit any seal.

As for the back, your gonna have to pay! How many miles on it? If its 150 to refresh the oil and Nitrogen, you might just scan fleebay for good Ohlins or something like that. Downside is it likely needs gone through too. I have guy out here if you wanna join us for Turkey day! :thumbup: lol
 
Eric, do these forks have Hi-speed bleeds on them?
If so you might want to grab some basic veneer calipers so you can measure depth easily and not have to guess. It makes getting it back to factory spec easier. Have you grabbed a FSM yet?

Also, Harbor Freight has some basic bushing drivers that would make bushing install easy. A bushing cutter common to Transmission shops makes taking them out a snap too. This one is pretty flat, but a bench grinder will solve that. Bushing Cutter, 7 1/4"
View attachment 51039 View attachment 51040

This tool, if sharp just takes cut right out of the bushing doing no harm to cavity its in. Effective when you don't have the exact size to drive it out.

AS for PVC - pipe. If you go that route for seal install, slicing vertical cuts in the pipe with a saw and then fitting it with a hose clamp gives it a good range of adjustability to fit any seal.

As for the back, your gonna have to pay! How many miles on it? If its 150 to refresh the oil and Nitrogen, you might just scan fleebay for good Ohlins or something like that. Downside is it likely needs gone through too. I have guy out here if you wanna join us for Turkey day! :thumbup: lol

Thanks for all the awesome info, Randy! I've not done a single thing with suspension on this (or other) bike yet! I do have FSM. I'll read up on everything before I decide which route to go. I have plenty of time till April!

Definitely wasn't planning on doing anything with the shock myself.. I know it's not a DYI job (unless you're SERIOUSLY set up).

The bike has only 8.5k miles on it. I'm sure shock is pretty damn perfect as is. The oil in the forks though.. I've no doubt it's grey and smells like fish, just because it's 9 years old.
 
+1 on the pvc pipe....I have used that on a few vfr's.

somehow my forks are still untouched at 34,000 miles :spank: :rolleyes:
 
For the regular ones you would usually need a forkseal driver to get the forks back together but my brother found some DIY guide that pretty much just called for the use of the PVC pipe instead. We changed the oil and the fork seals. It can be daunting if you're in experienced as we were but doable for a Saturday afternoon in the garage.

What is that fork seal driver used for? I was thinking of changing the oil in my fork by myself over the winter.

I did it once during a motorcycle mecanic class (90 hours do it yourself kind of class) and I don't remember needing any special tool except some piece of paper to get the seals over some holes on the fork (not to damage them).
 
Any recommendations for suspension service? The 05 R6 I picked up.. I've no doubt that fork/shock have never been serviced. Stock springs are very close to what I need for my weight, so I just want to get fresh oil in the legs and service rear shock before next season.

Can anyone recommend a good place (ideally in NJ or near, so I wouldn't have to ship).

What tools would I need to do the fork myself? (I'm fairly handy and have done lots of suspension work on downhill mountain bikes.. none required special tools though)

Thanks!

Doesn't your team have mechanics to do this while you focus on riding? Geeez.....you should have asked before you signed with them.
 
Doesn't your team have mechanics to do this while you focus on riding? Geeez.....you should have asked before you signed with them.
LOL.. really man! Unacceptable!

I say the First round of Tires, fluids, brakes are on PFD!!!

Our Newly Founded "Tire Man" (Eric) will do the labor.....
 
What is that fork seal driver used for? I was thinking of changing the oil in my fork by myself over the winter.

I did it once during a motorcycle mecanic class (90 hours do it yourself kind of class) and I don't remember needing any special tool except some piece of paper to get the seals over some holes on the fork (not to damage them).

Fork seal driver helps seat the fork seals into the slider tube neck without worrying about banging up your sexy chromed stantion with a hammer and broad-nose punch. Plus, the even pressure helps ensure the seal doesn't get all torn up. You can "normally" put the seal in with finger pressure and then slide the stantion down through the center without tearing anything up but it's the "factory recommended" technique to use the driver and it helps sell $75 brass fork seal drivers (that are custom sized for your forks). Or, you can but a PVC flare joint from Lowe's for about 90 cents. It's not heavy enough by itself to seat the seal so you still end up tapping it with your favorite BFH.
 
See if you can find a rebuilder with a shock dyno, yes there is such a thing. The guy I use is in the Austin area and is considered one of the best.

On Road Off Road Cycles Home Page

Or join your locals road racing forum and ask who they use. They'll be brutally honest.
 
See if you can find a rebuilder with a shock dyno, yes there is such a thing. The guy I use is in the Austin area and is considered one of the best.

On Road Off Road Cycles Home Page

Or join your locals road racing forum and ask who they use. They'll be brutally honest.

Many here recommend Markbilt, so I know where the shock will be going (I'll ask about dyno too).

Won't make decision on fork legs till I research what's involved.
 
Many here recommend Markbilt, so I know where the shock will be going (I'll ask about dyno too).

Won't make decision on fork legs till I research what's involved.
The last time I spoke with Mark I was quoted $250 for a dyno tune and $150 IIRC, for the shock rebuild.
 
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