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Understatement
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Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT
- Thread starter tejkowskit
- Start date
Understatement
zixaq
Elite Member
I did a valve adjustment yesterday and tried to remember to take some pictures. I'll look through what I have and see if it'd be useful.
Mostly its pics of the tear-down process. Did not remove throttle bodies or radiator.
For those curious, I had two exhaust valves right at the tight edge of the range (0.23 mm), so I decided to swap them out. This is the second valve adjustment (first at 27k, currently 45k), and both of those valves were tight and needed changed last time, too. Intake valves have never needed an adjustment.
Mostly its pics of the tear-down process. Did not remove throttle bodies or radiator.
For those curious, I had two exhaust valves right at the tight edge of the range (0.23 mm), so I decided to swap them out. This is the second valve adjustment (first at 27k, currently 45k), and both of those valves were tight and needed changed last time, too. Intake valves have never needed an adjustment.
No doubt!!! Had thier greed not been so ridiculous I'm sure plenty of us would have paid a reasonable fee for their service. But nope... Add it all the popups, redirect links, viral threats and to put it mildly, they suck!!!
Thank those who have the time to add back missing data. Much appreciated!
tejkowskit
Gold Member
Continued from page 1
You can now remove the cam sprockets. Place a wire through the cam chain to prevent it from falling into the motor. I imagine it would be a PITA to fish it back out! The service manual also instructs to remove the exhaust side timing chain guide (it is removed in the pic below). I did, but it isn't entirely mandatory. If you decide to, it just lifts out of the slot.
One you're at this point you can move onto removing the cam shaft caps and cam shafts. There are 10 bolts per cam shaft cap. Loosen these gradually in a criss-cross pattern from the outside working in. Same applies when tightening during reassembly. You can remove 1 cam shaft at a time if you desire. If only exhaust needs adjustment (as in my case) then you don't even need to remove the intake cam and vise-versa! Remember to place everything in a manor which you still remember how it goes during reassembly. The cam shaft caps are labeled E1, E2, I1, and I2 and have arrows pointing toward the right of the motor just in case you get them mixed up and forget to take pictures :spank:.
Once these 10 bolts are removed everything will lift out of place. The cam shaft caps have dowels in them too so don't let them fall out or get lost. Mine stayed snug and I didn't get a picture of them..you'll see them.
Here's both cam shafts removed.
The shims are under the buckets (which are labeled in the pic above). The buckets will lift straight up. I had to use 2 flat head screw drivers in a chop stick fashion to lift the bucket enough to grab it with my fingers. If you do this be gentle not to damage the buckets with the screw driver. All of my shims stayed in the buckets, but still be cautious not to drop any into the motor. DO NOT MIX UP BUCKETS OR SHIMS. Make sure you keep each bucket in order so they are reassembled to the same valve they came from! Same goes for shims; record which size shim came from which valve!
Buckets sitting in order of which they were removed. 1-4 top to bottom with shims still in buckets until their values are recorded.
Bucket on vs bucket removed. Notice the recession which the shim sits inside.
All buckets removed from exhaust side:
Here you can see the underside of the bucket with the shim in it. The underside of the bucket has a raised circle which sits on the shim. This shim is a 178 which is 1.78mm. You'll only be able to get shims in increments of 5. The factory installed the odd ones. All the numbers on my shims were legible, but a micrometer or calipers come in handy if the numbers are worn out. Also, our shims are 7.48mm diameter. You'll need to know this when buying new shims.
This one's 180 or 1.8mm
Now if you took your clearance measurements in US customary units it is easier to convert into metric when determining what size shim you need.
for the sake of keeping this thread uniform all my measurements will be displayed in metric
Exh spec. 0.23-0.3mm
Int spec. 0.13-0.2mm
I am not posting my intake measurements since they were all in spec. The process is the same so you'll get the example through my exhaust adjustments.
My exh measured: 1a-0.55 1b-0.66 2a-0.68 2b-0.66 3a-0.6 3b-0.71 4a-0.68 4b-0.55
All way too loose!
Now go to the valve shim chart and find what size you will need. Yamaha did the math for you and came up with this chart. Make sure you are looking at the correct chart; there is one for intake and one for exhaust.
Chart removed due to being copyright material. See formula below on calculating new shim sizes. Or try a google search for "fz6 valve shim chart" or something along those lines?
Now I know you'll say, "but what about the shims put in by the factory that aren't in increments of 5?". Well now you can bust out the calculator.
X=measured clearance, Y=desired clearance, Z=shim in bike (in mm), S=needed shim size.
X-Y+Z=S
Example. My measured clearance for cyl. 1 valve a is 0.55mm. Desired clearance is 0.28mm. The shim installed was 1.78mm.
0.55mm-0.28mm+1.78mm=2.05mm that tells me I need a 205 shim (2.05mm in thickness)
Now since you can only buy shims in increments of 5 you will have to change variable 'Y' in the above formula until 'S' is an increment of 5. Make sure you keep 'Y' within the range of 0.23-0.3mm for exhaust and 0.13-0.2mm for intake.
Here is a pic of my chart with measurements/conversions etc as a reference. (May be confusing to you especially since there are metric and imperial measurements written down, but make sense to me.. You get the point)
Continued in next post
You can now remove the cam sprockets. Place a wire through the cam chain to prevent it from falling into the motor. I imagine it would be a PITA to fish it back out! The service manual also instructs to remove the exhaust side timing chain guide (it is removed in the pic below). I did, but it isn't entirely mandatory. If you decide to, it just lifts out of the slot.
One you're at this point you can move onto removing the cam shaft caps and cam shafts. There are 10 bolts per cam shaft cap. Loosen these gradually in a criss-cross pattern from the outside working in. Same applies when tightening during reassembly. You can remove 1 cam shaft at a time if you desire. If only exhaust needs adjustment (as in my case) then you don't even need to remove the intake cam and vise-versa! Remember to place everything in a manor which you still remember how it goes during reassembly. The cam shaft caps are labeled E1, E2, I1, and I2 and have arrows pointing toward the right of the motor just in case you get them mixed up and forget to take pictures :spank:.
Once these 10 bolts are removed everything will lift out of place. The cam shaft caps have dowels in them too so don't let them fall out or get lost. Mine stayed snug and I didn't get a picture of them..you'll see them.
Here's both cam shafts removed.
The shims are under the buckets (which are labeled in the pic above). The buckets will lift straight up. I had to use 2 flat head screw drivers in a chop stick fashion to lift the bucket enough to grab it with my fingers. If you do this be gentle not to damage the buckets with the screw driver. All of my shims stayed in the buckets, but still be cautious not to drop any into the motor. DO NOT MIX UP BUCKETS OR SHIMS. Make sure you keep each bucket in order so they are reassembled to the same valve they came from! Same goes for shims; record which size shim came from which valve!
Buckets sitting in order of which they were removed. 1-4 top to bottom with shims still in buckets until their values are recorded.
Bucket on vs bucket removed. Notice the recession which the shim sits inside.
All buckets removed from exhaust side:
Here you can see the underside of the bucket with the shim in it. The underside of the bucket has a raised circle which sits on the shim. This shim is a 178 which is 1.78mm. You'll only be able to get shims in increments of 5. The factory installed the odd ones. All the numbers on my shims were legible, but a micrometer or calipers come in handy if the numbers are worn out. Also, our shims are 7.48mm diameter. You'll need to know this when buying new shims.
This one's 180 or 1.8mm
Now if you took your clearance measurements in US customary units it is easier to convert into metric when determining what size shim you need.
for the sake of keeping this thread uniform all my measurements will be displayed in metric
Exh spec. 0.23-0.3mm
Int spec. 0.13-0.2mm
I am not posting my intake measurements since they were all in spec. The process is the same so you'll get the example through my exhaust adjustments.
My exh measured: 1a-0.55 1b-0.66 2a-0.68 2b-0.66 3a-0.6 3b-0.71 4a-0.68 4b-0.55
All way too loose!
Now go to the valve shim chart and find what size you will need. Yamaha did the math for you and came up with this chart. Make sure you are looking at the correct chart; there is one for intake and one for exhaust.
Chart removed due to being copyright material. See formula below on calculating new shim sizes. Or try a google search for "fz6 valve shim chart" or something along those lines?
Now I know you'll say, "but what about the shims put in by the factory that aren't in increments of 5?". Well now you can bust out the calculator.
X=measured clearance, Y=desired clearance, Z=shim in bike (in mm), S=needed shim size.
X-Y+Z=S
Example. My measured clearance for cyl. 1 valve a is 0.55mm. Desired clearance is 0.28mm. The shim installed was 1.78mm.
0.55mm-0.28mm+1.78mm=2.05mm that tells me I need a 205 shim (2.05mm in thickness)
Now since you can only buy shims in increments of 5 you will have to change variable 'Y' in the above formula until 'S' is an increment of 5. Make sure you keep 'Y' within the range of 0.23-0.3mm for exhaust and 0.13-0.2mm for intake.
Here is a pic of my chart with measurements/conversions etc as a reference. (May be confusing to you especially since there are metric and imperial measurements written down, but make sense to me.. You get the point)
Continued in next post
Attachments
Last edited:
tejkowskit
Gold Member
Once you know what sizes you need go to your yammie dealer or order them online. I was lucky and my dealer had every size I needed.
Place new shims into their proper valve.
Slide the buckets back over onto their proper places. When you reassemble make sure to keep the timing correct. Place cam shafts with cyl. 1 lobes pointing out, cam shaft sprockets with notches pointed out earlier in line with the top of the motor, an T mark on timing sprocket in line with notch on motor. Getting the timing lined up perfectly may take a few tries and adjusting (it did for me), but is very important so take your time and do it right. Place the cam shaft caps back over the cam shafts and tighten them gradually, again, working from the outside in. Reapply your CCT and spin the timing sprocket a few times to settle everything in and make sure it works as it did before. All of your timing indications should line up.
Make sure to recheck valve clearances once the shafts are back in place. You might be going back to the dealer to get the correct shims yet again.
With new shims I measured:
1a-0.27mm 1b-0.32mm 2a-0.3mm 2b-0.25mm 3a-0.27mm 3b-0.3mm 4a-0.3mm 4b-0.25mm
Again that is only for the exhaust. I did recheck my intake, but the measurements were the same as the first time and all within spec. I know one of my valves is still two hundredths of a mm too loose and others are at their max, but I left it. :spank: say what you will, I'm not changing it lol. I'm comfortable with it.
If everything checks out torque down your bolts and reassemble the rest. It's also a good idea to pour clean oil over the cams and top of the open motor to wash and debris and contaminants down and then change your oil. If you do this make sure the timing sprocket cover is back on as a lot oil will run out of this opening. Edit: if you accidentally pour oil into cylinders there will be a lot of smoke out of the exhaust when you start it up.. This will burn off in a short time.
Cam sprocket bolts-15 ft/lb
Cam shaft cap bolts- 7.2 ft/lb
This really isn't a hard job, just time consuming. Take your time; mistakes are made when you rush. Take lots of pics with detail, and of course, post up your experience with any tips when you're done!
I started a thread a few days ago and some info which I missed in this thread may be found at this link: http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/53383-our-valve-shims-pads-stackable.html
Place new shims into their proper valve.
Slide the buckets back over onto their proper places. When you reassemble make sure to keep the timing correct. Place cam shafts with cyl. 1 lobes pointing out, cam shaft sprockets with notches pointed out earlier in line with the top of the motor, an T mark on timing sprocket in line with notch on motor. Getting the timing lined up perfectly may take a few tries and adjusting (it did for me), but is very important so take your time and do it right. Place the cam shaft caps back over the cam shafts and tighten them gradually, again, working from the outside in. Reapply your CCT and spin the timing sprocket a few times to settle everything in and make sure it works as it did before. All of your timing indications should line up.
Make sure to recheck valve clearances once the shafts are back in place. You might be going back to the dealer to get the correct shims yet again.
With new shims I measured:
1a-0.27mm 1b-0.32mm 2a-0.3mm 2b-0.25mm 3a-0.27mm 3b-0.3mm 4a-0.3mm 4b-0.25mm
Again that is only for the exhaust. I did recheck my intake, but the measurements were the same as the first time and all within spec. I know one of my valves is still two hundredths of a mm too loose and others are at their max, but I left it. :spank: say what you will, I'm not changing it lol. I'm comfortable with it.
If everything checks out torque down your bolts and reassemble the rest. It's also a good idea to pour clean oil over the cams and top of the open motor to wash and debris and contaminants down and then change your oil. If you do this make sure the timing sprocket cover is back on as a lot oil will run out of this opening. Edit: if you accidentally pour oil into cylinders there will be a lot of smoke out of the exhaust when you start it up.. This will burn off in a short time.
Cam sprocket bolts-15 ft/lb
Cam shaft cap bolts- 7.2 ft/lb
This really isn't a hard job, just time consuming. Take your time; mistakes are made when you rush. Take lots of pics with detail, and of course, post up your experience with any tips when you're done!
I started a thread a few days ago and some info which I missed in this thread may be found at this link: http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/53383-our-valve-shims-pads-stackable.html
Last edited:
tejkowskit
Gold Member
Ok. There you all go. You guys owe me a pint for this one lol. Sorry for the original post having to be continued on page 4. The reason is because there is a limit of 10 images per post which wasn't in place when I first made the thread. Enjoy.
Last edited:
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Great write up and the photos help for sure.
twobob1
Member
Above and beyond, thanks so much. Will be tackling this in the next month so will let you know how I get on. Much appreciated you have saved a lot of people money and worry.
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Checked and ADJUSTED mine today..
2007, 26,550 miles, NOT ridden hard 90% of the time.
Most were inside spec's (see below) but both #4 exhaust valves were .001" too tight
Factory spec’s: Exhaust .0091" - .0118"
(.009"-.012")
1 2 3 4
Ex .009" .009" .009" .009" .009" .009" .008" .008" (Too tight)
Now: .009" .009"
_________________________________________________________________________________
Factory spec’s: Intake .0051"- .0079"
(.005"- .008")
1 2 3 4
Intake .007" .007" .007" .007" .007" .007" .007" .006"
___________________________________________________________________________________
Did a TB sync once the coolant was full and the engine to temp. As I re-call, no much difference, I did adjust #3 cylinder down a knats hair.
No leaks, runs good. Darn near glass smooth at 4k and up, more so than usual but the weather was drier and cooler (engine runs noticeably better with the cooler weather)
I only printed out the "check valves" sticky, not this one, as I didn't expect to be swapping shims.
At least the tight valves were both #4, easily accessible and just the exhaust cam.
***The site is bunching all my number that WERE SPREAD out together.
One intake was .001" tighter than the rest, but surprisingly, all near dead even.
Plug burn (iridium's) for all plugs looked great too.
This may have been posted already (besides notes/pic's, etc), but it helps a bunch if lay parts, as their removed, in order (on the floor, table, whatever).
Also, the battery tray, (never had it out before), has two tabs, forward and low, that "clip in" to some other plastic.
2007, 26,550 miles, NOT ridden hard 90% of the time.
Most were inside spec's (see below) but both #4 exhaust valves were .001" too tight
Factory spec’s: Exhaust .0091" - .0118"
(.009"-.012")
1 2 3 4
Ex .009" .009" .009" .009" .009" .009" .008" .008" (Too tight)
Now: .009" .009"
_________________________________________________________________________________
Factory spec’s: Intake .0051"- .0079"
(.005"- .008")
1 2 3 4
Intake .007" .007" .007" .007" .007" .007" .007" .006"
___________________________________________________________________________________
Did a TB sync once the coolant was full and the engine to temp. As I re-call, no much difference, I did adjust #3 cylinder down a knats hair.
No leaks, runs good. Darn near glass smooth at 4k and up, more so than usual but the weather was drier and cooler (engine runs noticeably better with the cooler weather)
I only printed out the "check valves" sticky, not this one, as I didn't expect to be swapping shims.
At least the tight valves were both #4, easily accessible and just the exhaust cam.
***The site is bunching all my number that WERE SPREAD out together.
One intake was .001" tighter than the rest, but surprisingly, all near dead even.
Plug burn (iridium's) for all plugs looked great too.
This may have been posted already (besides notes/pic's, etc), but it helps a bunch if lay parts, as their removed, in order (on the floor, table, whatever).
Also, the battery tray, (never had it out before), has two tabs, forward and low, that "clip in" to some other plastic.
Last edited:
twobob1
Member
Im still too scared to do mine, I figure I should while I have the bike in the shed for winter where I can pu the heater on and work away. Im still too scared and have the thing of if it aint broke dont fix it. I have all the stuff to do it even that seal you should replace. I just wish I had someone who knew there stuff standing over me watching as im sure id do something wrong!. I get the guide up until it starts telling you how to lift the buckets out then I can't understand it very well. one guy on youtube uses a cable tie inside the engine to get them out?
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I felt just as you do...
Re the buckets / shims, VERY EASY to remove. Both are steel and EASILY REMOVED with a small magnet.
Put the magnet (cam is removed), over the bucket that needs adjustment) and simply lift! Both come out that easy..
Putting the new shim in, you have to manually place the shim, atop the VALVE itself, and push down. It'll fit snug and won't fall out(at least with the HOT cams kit I used). Drop the bucket back on, DONE!
I wasn't expecting to do an adjustment, just a check, and mine was out just .001". Debated on whether to close it up or adjust. Figured there's spec's for a reason and an additional hour NOW beats a burned up exhaust valve AND a MAJOR repair later..
Glad I did, as I would be thinking about "what if" had I not checked.
And I'm glad I did it as you don't know if a shop will actually do it, or in my case, ignore .001" and button it up. I know I'm good for another 26,600 miles...
It's winter down here too, but the temps are comfortable (about 70F) and I was "in the mood" to attack the check/adjustment. It was all done, with a sync and test ride, garage cleaned back up in about 7 hours total..
Sync once done:
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I've seen a shop doing a valve lash and the pig they had doing the job was just letting dirt drop in the engine as he pulled the the cover off. You can do it yourself and once your done you've got the experience under your belt and probably a better job than a stealership would do. Just take your time and you've got techy guys here to help! 
CanadaFZ6
Active Member
Amazing write up and pictures, probably the best I've seen on a forum. About to do this. My valves are ungodly loud and ticky.
Repeating a few tips:
Once the cover is off, plug them drain holes to the crankcase.
Don't force anything. Like inserting tensioner. Take your time and make sure it is fully retracted.
Cam extraction and installation; once the bolts are broken loose, use a 1/4 ratchet or stubby 3/8 and evenly loosen all the bolts. During cam install roll it into place - i.e. insert a tooth in the chain and take a calculated guess as to where it needs to land roll into place. You will see.
Once in place gradually snug those bolts down until all are seated. Verify timing marks. If good, torque in steps to spec.
Turn the crank by hand at least two full revolutions. Is should not bind. If it does don't force it. Remove the cam(s) and try again. Personally I tried pulling a gear off the cam and found this to not be helpful at all. I would advise against it.
That's about it. Double triple check your work!
Once the cover is off, plug them drain holes to the crankcase.
Don't force anything. Like inserting tensioner. Take your time and make sure it is fully retracted.
Cam extraction and installation; once the bolts are broken loose, use a 1/4 ratchet or stubby 3/8 and evenly loosen all the bolts. During cam install roll it into place - i.e. insert a tooth in the chain and take a calculated guess as to where it needs to land roll into place. You will see.
Once in place gradually snug those bolts down until all are seated. Verify timing marks. If good, torque in steps to spec.
Turn the crank by hand at least two full revolutions. Is should not bind. If it does don't force it. Remove the cam(s) and try again. Personally I tried pulling a gear off the cam and found this to not be helpful at all. I would advise against it.
That's about it. Double triple check your work!
fazil
Junior Member
Great info. I'll follow this link when i'll do mine.
But isn't it easier to make it without disassembling cam gears?
But isn't it easier to make it without disassembling cam gears?
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Yes, IME, it is easier.
If adjusting/ changing shims, the cams have to come out anyway.
Just when re-installing, everythings still at TDC, line cam marks up (crank at TDC mark) and drop them in..
I had one exhaust that was tight.
Pictured below, I knew the intake cam was staying installed so I tied the cam to the chain so it wouldn't move. At the crank, again, I didn't want the chain to move- so a rag was stuffed down there so the chain didn't move.
Pulled the exhaust cam (with gear) and set aside. I already knew how much thinner a shim I needed so once the OEM shim was pulled, measure that and go (in my case), .002" thinner...
Re-assembled, installed the CCT, re-checked clearances(rotated the engine over by hand) while verifying everything still lined up..
Last edited:
Ohendo
Site Supporter
Used this quarantine as an opportunity to check my valve clearance...like quite a few folks have done recently. I was way overdue - 52K miles, first time it was done.
(This how-to guide thread was fantastic. Thanks to all contributors! Would have been quite the adventure without it.)
The job went well, no real issues (except for that damn rubber mat!) Intakes all in the mid-range of spec. 5 of 8 exhaust valves were too tight, the other 3 right at the bottom spec. Adjusted all back into mid range.
Exhaust measurements (mm): 0.20, 0.20, 0.20, 0.23, 0.17, 0.18, 0.23, 0.23
My only gripe is the actual shim measurements. Almost every shim I measured was at least .05mm smaller than what it was labeled, one was .09 mm smaller. Even the shims I bought from the local shop were off a bit. I verified my calipers using feeler gauges and even a spark plug gap tool. Calipers were dead nuts accurate. Guess that's why it helps to have the whole Hot Cams shim kit available when doing this job.
Here's to another 52K miles! JK...now that I know I can do it, I plan to check the valves again in 25K miles.
(This how-to guide thread was fantastic. Thanks to all contributors! Would have been quite the adventure without it.)
The job went well, no real issues (except for that damn rubber mat!) Intakes all in the mid-range of spec. 5 of 8 exhaust valves were too tight, the other 3 right at the bottom spec. Adjusted all back into mid range.
Exhaust measurements (mm): 0.20, 0.20, 0.20, 0.23, 0.17, 0.18, 0.23, 0.23
My only gripe is the actual shim measurements. Almost every shim I measured was at least .05mm smaller than what it was labeled, one was .09 mm smaller. Even the shims I bought from the local shop were off a bit. I verified my calipers using feeler gauges and even a spark plug gap tool. Calipers were dead nuts accurate. Guess that's why it helps to have the whole Hot Cams shim kit available when doing this job.
Here's to another 52K miles! JK...now that I know I can do it, I plan to check the valves again in 25K miles.
Last edited:
arronjackson
Member
Are there any gaskets or seals or other parts that I should buy in advance to doing this job?
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I don't like to reuse gaskets, so when I do mine, I purchase a new:
Valve cover gasket
Timing cover gasket
Water pump drain crush washer
CCT gasket
Also a good time to replace spark plugs if you are so inclined.
Valve cover gasket
Timing cover gasket
Water pump drain crush washer
CCT gasket
Also a good time to replace spark plugs if you are so inclined.
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Un-less very old, lots of heat cycles(rubber valve cover gaskets hardened up), I used mine again.
I had 26,600 miles on the bike at the time.
I did replace the CCT cover gasket. You must use some RTV / Yamabond where the wires go in to the cam chain cover(Pick up sensor inside).
For draining the coolant, I pull a lower hose and screw with that very little drain screw/sealing washer- A lil messier but no messing with that tiny screw/seal. You'll likely find a little corrosion between that lower hose and aluminum part (forgot the name), that's attached to the block, (do just a quick cleaning)..
Lastly, for re-assembly the valve cover, put a little bit of dielectric grease on the spark plug boots where it touches the valve cover. It'll make "SNAPPING ON" the boots WAY EASIER and you'll feel/hear it snap back on the spark plug..
.
I had 26,600 miles on the bike at the time.
I did replace the CCT cover gasket. You must use some RTV / Yamabond where the wires go in to the cam chain cover(Pick up sensor inside).
For draining the coolant, I pull a lower hose and screw with that very little drain screw/sealing washer- A lil messier but no messing with that tiny screw/seal. You'll likely find a little corrosion between that lower hose and aluminum part (forgot the name), that's attached to the block, (do just a quick cleaning)..
Lastly, for re-assembly the valve cover, put a little bit of dielectric grease on the spark plug boots where it touches the valve cover. It'll make "SNAPPING ON" the boots WAY EASIER and you'll feel/hear it snap back on the spark plug..
.
