Airbox not on tight ?

vb7prog

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2014
Messages
46
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
California
Visit site
20170625_092520.jpg20170625_092716.jpg

I changed my spark plugs and as part of that process (to make access easier) I removed the battery, battery cage, and the airbox. After putting the airbox back on it just doesn't look right, and can't quite tell if its on correctly. I feel like its sitting on top but not actually clamped around the 4 intake tubes, the airbox has micro cracks where the clamps are. Does this look normal compared to your guys' FZ6s out there ?

If I were to plug up the air intake the bike should have problems starting / die shortly after starting right? Is this a safe way of testing whether air is correctly being passed thru the filter ? Would this cause damage to the engine ?
 

gulfpete

2004 FZ6N
Joined
Apr 17, 2017
Messages
55
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Gympie, Queensland
Visit site
Definitely not on right, loosen all the clamps right off and wriggle it around until the boots seat at the bottom of the tubes.

I'd get another airbox if it is at all cracked too, it'll cost a lot more if dust gets into the engine.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 7, 2009
Messages
12,532
Reaction score
1,178
Points
113
Location
Cape Coral, Florida, USA
Visit site
Plus 1 ^^, it's not on at all... I strongly suspect the assembly process is incorrect.

I recently had mine off and (as I recall) the battery BOX goes in first, then the AIR BOX. battery cover LAST.

Putting a little bit of grease on the edge of the boots and TB's will make slipping them back on MUCH easier.
But yes, they should sit down full on the TB's, (no round part visible)

**BTW, there's TWO bolts up front that secures BOTH the battery box AND the filter box. It almost appears the air box is back too far and your NOT using those front bolts (only holding down the battery box).



.


The boots for an '07: Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2007 FZ6 - FZS6W INTAKE Diagram
 
Last edited:

vb7prog

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2014
Messages
46
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
California
Visit site
Alright, yeah it wasn't on right. In the limited time I ran the engine like that,the engine actually sounded better (throatier), but I think there was a lack of power and certainly don't want engine damage. I used rubber cement on the base of the rubber throttle body hoses, to shore up the cracking plastic. I put a little bit of oil on the rims of the hoses and bought a better longer 4mm hex tool to make the job easier. All good now.
 

vb7prog

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2014
Messages
46
Reaction score
0
Points
6
Location
California
Visit site
I don't think it was, its just mainly its a tight fit at the throttle bodies and it doesn't help that there are 3 small tubes that have to be lined up as well. As for the bolts mentioned the battery flap lifts up and it was easy enough to slip the bolt receivers in the middle. Honestly, pounding on the airbox is what got it done.
 

heath_AU

Junior Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2009
Messages
116
Reaction score
2
Points
16
Location
Brisbane, Australia
Visit site
Yeh nah - you want to loosen the clamps around the rubber intakes wiggle/slide it on (you may find a touch of silicon spray will make this easier and also help restore your rubbers) and then tweak the clamps JUST tight enough to seal around the intakes but loose enough to slide it off next time and not have to adjust them again when you slide them back on.
Works a treat for me - and i am coming up to 140,000km on mine from new
 
Top