bd43's 07 Headlight Mod Part 2

tandj

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:welcome: Tandj!

I think you mean you want both light to look the same on high beam. I believe you want to run a the H4 in the left side as apposed to the H7.

And again welcome to a great group of people on this forum!

Yes, I am currious if you can put a H4 bulb in the Left head light instead of the H7 bulb. I believe if you put a H4 bulb in the left headlight, both lights should look the same while on lowbeam, being that I have the headlight mod done. Has anyone put a H4 bulb in the left headlight yet?
 

Trev

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Done this mod to my bike today.
Also fitted crash bungs while I was there.
Looks much better with both lights lit.
Just got to ride it now, had it a week today and not ridden it yet.!

My thanks to the OP for the information.
Firstly made the job easier and secondly, I would probably never have noticed there was a H4 bulb in the unlit side.
 
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toodles1971

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hats off to bd43.as a autotechnician i am seeing you doing the mod the right way.i have seen many posts of people doing this mod in different ways.i agree with most you do not want to cut the wiring harness whenever possible i have seen this problem many times in cars when an astro start is installed.the only thing i did notice is that the fz6 has 3 unused terminals in the quick connector that ties the wiring harness from the frame to the front cowl.two more terminals in these would keep the full factory apperance along with keeping your quick connect in case you need to remove front fairing.if you had this feature in your harness i would buy one from you in a second.although looking at your harness as is you do a very nice job of assembly.let me know if you do have this.even a quick connector that is weather sealed in that region would work as well.you may have updated this since these posts where made just let me know if you do have this option and i will buy one from you.thanks.
 

Rainrider

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Hey Guys. First post ever here. I just did the mod today in about 40 min. But I went a different way. I bought a h4/9003 socket that comes with the 3rd missing wire. I installed it and spliced the 3rd wire to the positive one on the low beam. Now I have both lights working on low and high the h4 lights both fillments when on high.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Have to remember, that's another 60w the bike wasn't designed for.

The extra wattage, in my experiance, didn't make any difference (about 2.5 years with the BD43 mod) , putting the extra draw on that single line I would be leery of...

When your HB is on, its drawing 60 watts, (I believe the LB is 55W) so the draw is the same (as the factory designed) when the HB is activated.

As for Rainrider, with the BD43 mod, when you switch to HB, the LB GOES OFF. I suspect your set up, both filiments in the same socket/bulb stay on shortening bulb life with much more heat(double). In that case, it'll draw more power than stock and with the BD43 mod...

Buy some extra bulbs, you'll need them.. :)


BTW, I put PIAA high performance bulbs that draw the same as the stockers but put out 100 watts each.. Considerably brighter (under $100 for both)
 
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mave2911

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The extra wattage, in my experiance, didn't make any difference

Thanks Townsend, but my understanding of the wiring on which I commented (rainrider) was that he had BOTH high-beam AND low-beam illuminated (just piggybacked off the low-beam wire so both were lit) in addition to the H7 side.

H7 + H4 55W Low-beam + H4 60W High-beam.

I have the bd43 mod, and I heard the reason it's required is some European specification either about dual headlights looking like a car in the distance, or it being too bright (?) for oncoming LHS drivers, the bike was designed to run the H7 and ther H4 in high OR low at the same time, but this European issue made it necessary to disable low-beam on the H4. (that's why all of the fittings are there, you just need the supplementary wire.)

Cheers,
Rick
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Thanks Townsend, but my understanding of the wiring on which I commented (rainrider) was that he had BOTH high-beam AND low-beam illuminated (just piggybacked off the low-beam wire so both were lit) in addition to the H7 side.

H7 + H4 55W Low-beam + H4 60W High-beam.

I have the bd43 mod, and I heard the reason it's required is some European specification either about dual headlights looking like a car in the distance, or it being too bright (?) for oncoming LHS drivers, the bike was designed to run the H7 and ther H4 in high OR low at the same time, but this European issue made it necessary to disable low-beam on the H4. (that's why all of the fittings are there, you just need the supplementary wire.)

Cheers,
Rick

I think we're on the same page.

I don't know Rainriders location , North California?, (a US bike)- which wouldn't, I don't believe, have the extra wires installed.

My interpetation of Rainriders mod was he replaced the right socket and taped into the LS low beam to illuminate it.

Doing it that way, would not turn off the low beam when the HB is activated (RS only), again extra heat on the bulb AND extra amperage pull thru the LS low beam wire...

I may very well be wrong but I definitily wouldn't tap another 55 or 60 watts from a wire designed for one bulb, not two. He may very well get away with it, I'd be very leery of the extra load on one line (he stated he spliced into an existing headlight wire, he didn't plug an additional wire into the existing harness ((BD43 mod)).

Its guess its a moot point since Rainrider hasn't posted since..


Cliff, your interpetation?
 
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Motogiro

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I think we're on the same page.

I don't know Rainriders location , North California?, (a US bike)- which wouldn't, I don't believe, have the extra wires installed.

My interpetation of Rainriders mod was he replaced the right socket and taped into the LS low beam to illuminate it.

Doing it that way, would not turn off the low beam when the HB is activated (RS only), again extra heat on the bulb AND extra amperage pull thru the LS low beam wire...

I may very well be wrong but I definitily wouldn't tap another 55 or 60 watts from a wire designed for one bulb, not two. He may very well get away with it, I'd be very leery of the extra load on one line (he stated he spliced into an existing headlight wire, he didn't plug an additional wire into the existing harness ((BD43 mod)).

Its guess its a moot point since Rainrider hasn't posted since..


Cliff, your interpetation?

Yes you can safely run the H7 plus the H4 single filament on the one wire in the harness but as soon as pull the current of both filaments on the H4 plus the H7 you're pulling 175 watts and running two filaments at the same time in the (Correction) > H4 which will overheat it for sure. I would worry more about the plug in the harness failing first more than the wire in the harness as I would also expect the fuse to possibly fail. If run for a decent length of time it will melt the glass envelope of the H4 if the filament/s doesn't burn out first. I've had to track down intermittent headlamp problems to find the pin in the plug assembly on the wire that was running too much current had burned out.
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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Yes you can safely run the H7 plus the H4 single filament on the one wire in the harness but as soon as pull the current of both filaments on the H4 plus the H7 you're pulling 175 watts and running two filaments at the same time in the H7 which will overheat it for sure. I would worry more about the plug in the harness failing first more than the wire in the harness as I would also expect the fuse to possibly fail. If run for a decent length of time it will melt the glass envelope of the H4 if the filament/s doesn't burn out first. I've had to track down intermittent headlamp problems to find the pin in the plug assembly on the wire that was running too much current had burned out.

That's what I thought, thanks... S
 

mave2911

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Yes you can safely run the H7 plus the H4 single filament on the one wire in the harness but as soon as pull the current of both filaments on the H4 plus the H7 you're pulling 175 watts and running two filaments at the same time in the (Correction) > H4 which will overheat it for sure.

Yeah - I thought as much. Thanks for the confirm.

Cheers,
Rick
 

NorCal FZ6

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Another "bd43 dual headlight mod." Well it's done and I'm stoked. It came out great. Thank you BD43!!!!!
All I can say is simple and practical and well thought out. A great way to utilize the existing stock electrical system by just simply just adding a well made wire.

Thanks again!

If your thinking about doing this mod, DO IT.... very affordable. Two headlights are better than one. Even if your not at the stripbar:BLAA: :cheer::cheer:

I found this thread more helpful.
 
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suuzzie

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I'm having trouble with the battery. Okay, disconnected the + and -. But there is also the starter relay and the ABS relay... I just can't find a way to disconnect them...

Assembling an exhaust was a lot easier...
 

NorCal FZ6

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Once you have removed the battery. Try unscrewing and remove the air filter and pull off the air cleaner housing. Careful not to disconnect any hoses. Finesse is the key word here. Take your time Real easy. After unscrewing and pulling up and off the air cleaner housing just move it carefully and move it slightly backwards toward the seat area. That should give you enough room to move back the battery box housing slightly toward the seat, as memory serves the battery box housing is connected to the air cleaner housing. Mated together by 2 screws. Make sure to remove these screws prior to removing the air cleaner housing. Also once the air cleaner is removed place a clean towel over the air intake." So as not to know get any particles in the intake when you move the battery box back or battery container. Then disconnect the 2 screws to the battery box. Once you have both the battery box and the air cleaner unscrewed and placed gently back toward the rear seat..You should be able to see a crude rubber sheathe underneath in front of the battery box in the frame, that will contain the harness. Slide the rubber sheathe gently down the grouped wires exposing the harness. Open the harness and voila. Read the instructions carefully and look at the pictures very carefully. If you have the bd43 crafted wire, make sure when you put the pin end of the wire in the male end of the harness. You place it in the right slot. Study the picture example provided. There should be 2 open slots on the male end of the harness. On the female end of the harness there should be 2 open slots, 1 with a connector and 1 without. Place the pin in the male slot that will mate to the female slot that has the connector. That is how it is on my 2009 FZ6 S2. U.S doesn't have ABS. Good luck. If you don't think you can manage seek assistance. You can always try contacting/ PMing bd43 he is very helpful.
 
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suuzzie

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Once you have removed the battery. Try unscrewing and remove the air filter and pull off the air cleaner housing. Careful not to disconnect any hoses. Finesse is the key word here. Take your time Real easy. After unscrewing and pulling up and off the air cleaner housing just move it carefully and move it slightly backwards toward the seat area. That should give you enough room to move back the battery box housing slightly toward the seat, as memory serves the battery box housing is connected to the air cleaner housing. Mated together by 2 screws. Make sure to remove these screws prior to removing the air cleaner housing. Also once the air cleaner is removed place a clean towel over the air intake." So as not to know get any particles in the intake when you move the battery box back or battery container. Then disconnect the 2 screws to the battery box. Once you have both the battery box and the air cleaner unscrewed and placed gently back toward the rear seat..You should be able to see a crude rubber sheathe underneath in front of the battery box in the frame, that will contain the harness. Slide the rubber sheathe gently down the grouped wires exposing the harness. Open the harness and voila. Read the instructions carefully and look at the pictures very carefully. If you have the bd43 crafted wire, make sure when you put the pin end of the wire in the male end of the harness. You place it in the right slot. Study the picture example provided. There should be 2 open slots on the male end of the harness. On the female end of the harness there should be 2 open slots, 1 with a connector and 1 without. Place the pin in the male slot that will mate to the female slot that has the connector. That is how it is on my 2009 FZ6 S2. U.S doesn't have ABS. Good luck. If you don't think you can manage seek assistance. You can always try contacting/ PMing bd43 he is very helpful.

That part I know... I'm just stuck with the ABS and the starter...
 

NorCal FZ6

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That part I know... I'm just stuck with the ABS and the starter...
-I don't understand you can't unplug 2 wires? I don't know about the ABS. If anything I thought the disconnecting of the air cleaner was the most tideous and cautious part of the whole project. If your not sure just contact bd43. take pics.... Don't jack up anything your not prepared to fix.

If you do disconnect wires. Make sure to mark what colors go where.
 
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NorCal FZ6

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Did you make your own pin NorCal? Or did you order one ?

Nooooo. In my eyes it was affordable. Bd43 sells them. The wire is quite literally plug and play. Unless your into that sort of thing, I would just buy the wire save yourself the time and energy of what someone else has already done for you. Many bikes have his MOD.
 

suuzzie

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-I don't understand you can't unplug 2 wires? I don't know about the ABS. If anything I thought the disconnecting of the air cleaner was the most tideous and cautious part of the whole project. If your not sure just contact bd43. take pics.... Don't jack up anything your not prepared to fix.

If you do disconnect wires. Make sure to mark what colors go where.

Found it!!
Just had to disconnect one plug and unscrew two screws... :steve:
 
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