Bike won't start after replacing battery

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JJFRANKIS

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Hello all,
Last week my bike wouldn't start. I ride it everyday and after 4 years it was time for a new battery. After the new battery went in, I turn the key to 'ON' and the usual pre-start sequence (tach and odometer cycle from 0 to 300) did its thing, but there was not the usual sound that goes with that sequence. Does anyone know what that sound is? The sound is coming from under that tank, could it be the fuel pump?

Even with the new battery, the first time I try to start the bike in the morning there is no sound from that pre-start sequence and the bike won't start. I have to push the starter button at least twice to get it to start. Any ideas? :confused:
 
It's not... since it does end up starting... which could not happen if it was the kill switch.

The sound is indeed the fuel pump getting primed...

I'd start by checking the BAT connections... and all fuses too (including the "backup" one).

Did you ride the bike for a while after you got it to start? np? Sounds like an intermittent fuel pump issue, which sounds weird to me :)
 
I stopped after the first paragraph and didn't get to the part where he said it started. My bad, I guess I should read more carefully.
 
After it starts, I ride it the 20 minutes to work. And after work when I go to start it, it will start right up the first time.

I will check the battery connections. And try to check the fuses. Time to pull out the service manual!

Any other ideas?
 
An intermittent fuel pump problem would be possible. But from the sounds of it I gotta think it's a terminal connection since it starts eventually and runs ok on the commute. Did you make sure the little nut at the base of the terminal bolts (pos/neg) is threaded in and tight? It's tough to get that right sometimes and a cross thread there might appear to be tight but in reality isn't making good contact.
 
I just went outside and started it. It started up with no fuel pump priming sound and it has been running fine. I turned it off and started it again - this time the fuel pump primed and started.

Could it be as simple as a bad fuel pump? or connection to the pump?
 
JJFRANKIS said:
I just went outside and started it. It started up with no fuel pump priming sound and it has been running fine. I turned it off and started it again - this time the fuel pump primed and started.

Could it be as simple as a bad fuel pump? or connection to the pump?
Click to expand...

Check the connections to the pump. When the tank got lifted it may have loosened one up. I'm not sure how it starts with no fuel pump prime. This is a weird one!
 
For what it's worth, my fuel pump doesn't always prime (make the sound) when I start up. Not sure why, but it's always been like that and I bought mine new.

I believe there must be a fuel pressure sensor somewhere in the fuel circuit that determines whether or not there is enough fuel in the lines immediately in front of the FI assembly, and if not then the pump primes the circuit.

*Note: this is a completely nonscientific assessment based on my observations and life with my FZ over the past few years* :)

I generally shut off the motor with the key, rather than the kill switch, because I have heard that this might help save me from replacing the kill switch, at least for a while. Sometimes when I turn the key on and the kill switch is in the off position, when I flip it to on it will sometimes prime the pump.

My two cents - good luck JJFRANKIS. Hang in there, people on this forum will help you diagnose and correct your problem.
 
I'm thinking if it's an intermittent connection it would fail and the engine would die. This doesn't seem to be happening. It also starts on cue. When the starter button is pushed it probably tells the ECU to push the pump and of course the bike starts. Sounds more like the ECU is not sending the prime pump signal. There may be other sensors in the Fuel Injection system that look at specific pressure or overpressure that there could be a problem with. I will try to find these in the service manual later today.
Definitely check all your connections and just for Sh*ts n Giggles, disconnect the negative battery lead for 15 minutes and reconnect. The ECU might have gotten a funny glitch from reconnection and this might rid the glitch.
 
marke14 said:
I generally shut off the motor with the key, rather than the kill switch, because I have heard that this might help save me from replacing the kill switch, at least for a while. Sometimes when I turn the key on and the kill switch is in the off position, when I flip it to on it will sometimes prime the pump.
Click to expand...

Can anyone else speak to the validity of this comment? I'm just curious if this is how most of you do it. I accidentally turned off my key before the ignition switch the other day and had a "oh $hit" moment where I thought I might have done something bad for the bike. Anyone have any info on potential downsides to this method?
 
There are NO downsides to using the kill switch or key to shut the bike off. from the engine's stand point, it's the same thing.

FWIW, I only use my key to make sure I don't forget it on the bike... I never use the kill switch.

I like the fuel pressure sensor idea... priming the fuel pump may not always be required... and if you can ride more than 5 miles, it means your fuel pump works fine...
 
Wavex said:
FWIW, I only use my key to make sure I don't forget it on the bike... I never use the kill switch.
Click to expand...

I'm going to try to start using the key to shut it off then! I ALWAYS forget my key on the bike, walk away about 30 yards, and then have to go back to grab it. I've been fortunate so far but I really need to break this bad habit and turning it off with the key is a start!

Thanks Wavex!
 
My instructor at the MSF class said to always use the kill switch to stop the motor out of good habit. His point was if you need to kill the bike in an emergency your hand is right there on the handlebar. Once you get into this habit it will be second nature to hit the switch. Reaching for the keys would take more time. Still being a newbie with less than 1500 miles experience I go with this suggestion.
 
I tend to use the sidestand switch :spank:

On old bikes the kill switch was wired directly into the ignition circuit, and would switch a fair amount of current. This could cause premature failure.

On modern bikes were everything goes via the ECU it really doesn't make much difference.

Best bet is to use a bit of everything, sometimes kill switch, sometimes key, sometimes sidestand. It helps keep the switching contacts free from corrosion (they are generally designed to self clean using the arc from the circuit being broken), and by varying the device used you are checking all the safety circuits.
 
Mancolt said:
Can anyone else speak to the validity of this comment? I'm just curious if this is how most of you do it. I accidentally turned off my key before the ignition switch the other day and had a "oh $hit" moment where I thought I might have done something bad for the bike. Anyone have any info on potential downsides to this method?
Click to expand...
When I bought my bike from the dealer, he made a point of telling me not to use the kill switch on a regular basis to stop the bike. Always use the key. The kill switch is for emergencies (yes David, I use the brakes first.... LOL).
 
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