Gramwam

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Good evening,

Can anyone please tell me if I need to remove the Airbox and battery box to gain access to change my ignition coil #1 and #4. I can see where the coils are of course, but it does not look like you can unscrew the bolts and disconnect the leads in such a tight area to work in.

It was hard enough changing the sparks, I am a total novice when in comes to engines and electrics, but I do not live near any bike mechanics.

I have a FZ6 S2 07, NON ABS.

Thank you in advance for any help I receive on here.
 

fazil

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I guess so. Though i've never tried to change any coil.
Why do you need to change the coil?
 

Gramwam

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I have changed the sparks and the battery, cylinders 1 and 4 are not working still so I have a used coil to replace the one I suspect is broken. I have done 75000 miles, lots of wear and tear!

Thank you for asking Fazil.
 

fazil

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75.000 miles is a good reason :) I recently changed one of the iginition coil of my old virago 250 and it really made a huge difference. Engine works smoother now. Expecially, in cold and humid weather, front cylinder was not working properly. Now it works perfect.

If you can change spark plugs, it won't be a problem to change the coils also. Did you have any fault code in the speedo by the way?
 
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Gramwam

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I have changed all 4 spark plugs, still no cylinder #1 and #4.
I have error code 33, my ECU is clean and fine, bike starts no problem on 2 cylinders, just cant ride it Haha.
 

FinalImpact

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Air box, no. If you remove the battery and bolts holding the tray the coils are easy to access.

So, the CEL is on with an error code and you have a misfire?
Unless you get lucky and find the red power wire off or the ground wire from the ECU it has been our experience that the coils do not fail for no reason. Point is it usually falls back to the ECU which burns out the coil when its internal output shorts to ground.

Please verify your kill switch is clean and functioning as all power for the coils goes through that switch. That said, should it fail it **should** take out both coils and basically disable your bike or make it run very erratic.

In this photo the tray has been unbolted.
attachment.php


Before you spend money on parts we can guide you through some hands on testing if you have a 12v test lamp or a hand held multi-meter.
Also do a search here on Coil Failure. Yours is not the first.
 

Gramwam

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Thank you for the picture,
I have seen it on here, but it looks like you need to remove the airbox to get the battery box back as far as it is in that picture, if you know what I mean?

I have taken the cover off the kill switch, was dusty inside but nothing else. Everything on the bike works apart from #1 and #4, am going to cross my fingers and put the coil in tomorow, I just may have an early christmas present. The bike has beem very kind to me up to now.

Like I said before, I am useless at anything other than riding it, am learning as I go, there is no way at the moment I could analyise anything electric Fazil, sorry.
 

fazil

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What year of bike is it?
2004 and 2005 year models have Tps (Throttle position sensor) recall. May be that's the case.
Ah sorry yours is 2007, i've just seen it.
 

Gramwam

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Hey, Thank you very much for the advice, may I ask, the red you can see in that pic is at the top of coil #1 and the ground would be underneath out of sight? Sorry Finallmpact, I am a moron. Been riding 20 years with so many mechanics around, where I live now is motorbike heaven, but not one decent mechanic for 100 miles!
 

Gramwam

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Hey Fazil, I looked that up also.

My gut says its the coil, I may get very lucky and find a loose wire when I start the job tomorrow on the coil, I have had the bike for its last 51000 miles and have only had to replace the starter motor and CCT, been very lucky considering the roads I use it on all year.
 

fazil

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Please keep us informed, i checked other threads about code 33 & 34, unfortunately they don't have a conclusion. I hope yours wil end happy.
 

Gramwam

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Thank you Fazil, I am working on it tomorrow, I will let you know.
If its the ECU, I may be looking at getting a new FZ6 as I love them. My bike has been down the road with me attached, so its not worth a lot financially anymore, especially with the very high mileage.

Have a good night.
 

FinalImpact

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The coils don't just fail out of the blue.
The red wires provide power from the battery. The ECU acts as the trigger controlling the sparks rate and duration by clamping the coils ground wire to ground through the ECU. When you find the coil cracked or burned it is because the ECU's coil circuit shorted to ground and burned out the coil.

Hopefully it is just a wire that came off the spade and the coil is not needed. Time will tell.
 

FinalImpact

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Look on your replacement coil and you will notice a "+" and a "-" embossed in the plastic near the spades. The red wires go to the plus side. The ECU wires for ground go to the minus.

Look the old coil over for cracks, bulging, blisters on the case.
Also confirm the hard body spark plug caps are screwed firmly to the wires. Tighten by holding thr wire and rotate the cap CW on the wire. It should not spin freely.

As for the air box, the battery tray does lift out enough for this repair with the air box in place. Just remove the battery and set it aside.

If you wish to remove the air box it will take a pair of pliers for the clamps and a very long 3mm allen wrench, like 12 to 15cm. Just loosen the upper clamps wiggle the box while lifting up. It will allow you to do a thorough inspection of the hoses and wires around the throttle bodies.
 

FinalImpact

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Does your bike have an immobilizer?

Observation but it seems those that have it are the ones which also had bad ecu's.
 
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