Code 46 and my first bike breakdown

[nthdegreeburns]

30 minutes into a stop / start commute in suburban Atlanta, I get to a major intersection in the left turn lane. Four lanes, both directions, and I notice the check engine light (CEL).

"What's that?" I wonder. I decide to hit the kill switch (the mistake) to cycle it on / off and see if it resets it. Next thing I know...

...I'm pushing a dead bike (won't start) from the left turn lane across 2 lanes up onto a sidewalk. I'm stranded. My first bike breakdown.

CODE 46

A few things to note:

• New OEM battery within the past 3 months
• New plugs within the past 4 months
• Dual headlight mod installed

I switch the bike on / off -- the speedo is indicating a nice big "46". After making some hasty calls for some help getting the bike trailered (if need be), I pull up this site and the PDF manual on my iPhone and find this:

Code 46 - Vehicle system power supply - Power supply to the fuel injection system is not normal.

So -- I've not had the bike on a tender much since I replaced it, because...effort. And I've not been riding much because of work, baby and weather. Perhaps the battery is the problem.

The Fuse Fix

I had a friend join me and help me guide the bike off the rather bad sidewalk so I didn't drop it into traffic (fire hydrant in the middle of the sidewalk where I got stranded). He recommended checking the fuses.

After a few minutes reading a tiny iPhone PDF, found the fuse box. Nope. Wrong side. Right side. Found the other fuse box. OK -- here we go...

...the 10A EFI fuse was fine? Contacts were a little corroded, but otherwise looked fine. While I answered a call about a guy bringing a trailer, my buddy swapped out the EFI 10A fuse with the spare (no corrosion on it).

Bike hesitantly starts back up and is running fine long enough for me to cancel the trailer help and ride home.

The Verdict?

So -- I'll leave the bike on the tender overnight. Tomorrow I'll check the voltages from the battery -- per @TownsendFJR1300 -- after everything's charged up.

What else?

• Did swapping the fuse short the ECU and resolve the issue temporarily?
• Should I just go out and buy all new fuses so they're new?

Thanks,
nthdegreeburns

 

[ChanceCoats123]

Since you mention sitting in stop and go traffic, I think it's pretty safe to assume it's a battery issue. I'll refer you to this thread because it seems like exactly the symptoms you had.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/48340-battery-saver-dual-headlight-setups.html

With the dual headlight mod, the headlight draws more current than stock. At idle, the stator is barely keeping up with charging the battery. When you sit in stop and go for too long, it drains the battery to the point that the CEL will come on, and the bike won't restart (If turned off). People have had this happen before and a nice long ride up in the rpm's recharges the battery just fine.

 

[VEGASRIDER]

Also check your engine-cut of switch. See if it's shortening out while it's in the run position while the engine is running. Give it a wiggle, left to right, press it down towards you, any direction except towards the off position and see if it shuts off. I recently had to replace my switch due to being worn out.

 

[nthdegreeburns]

Also check your engine-cut of switch. See if it's shortening out while it's in the run position while the engine is running. Give it a wiggle, left to right, press it down towards you, any direction except towards the off position and see if it shuts off. I recently had to replace my switch due to being worn out.

Would a defective switch have resulted in an ECU code 46 though?

 

[nthdegreeburns]

People have had this happen before and a nice long ride up in the rpm's recharges the battery just fine.

Read that whole thread, thx.

What is a pop start? I'm assuming getting it rolling and popping the clutch in 1st? 2nd? That would've been dangerous for me on the sidewalk and the rush hour traffic this afternoon, but it might be helpful in the future.

 

[ChanceCoats123]

Read that whole thread, thx.

What is a pop start? I'm assuming getting it rolling and popping the clutch in 1st? 2nd? That would've been dangerous for me on the sidewalk and the rush hour traffic this afternoon, but it might be helpful in the future.

That's exactly what it is. I've never done it on a large motorcycle, but I've bump (pop) started smaller dirt bikes and quads before. Put it in first and hold the clutch in. Get a good head of steam and let the clutch out. Make sure you've got a good amount of weight over the rear tire otherwise you'll just skid to a stop.

 

[ChevyFazer]

I had my fz6 throw the 46 code on me a few times after getting it and the previous owner just put a new battery in. Turns on the neg wasn't tight and worked its way loose

 

[ltdillard]

I've not heard it called pop start, but I recently had to push start my 2007. Was out for a ride with a buddy and stopped for fuel. Then my bike would barely turn over, then would not; classic "my battery is dead" scenario (pretty similar to how your cage sounds if battery is weak, etc.).

We couldn't jump it (though we tried; I have jumpers that connect to the battery tender plug). So we put the bike in 2nd (not first; it was either 3rd or 2nd - think it was 2nd) and pushed it. We had the advantage of a not-busy slightly downhill street. Had switches all on, popped the clutch, and it fired right off.

I didn't notice anything odd on the 30min ride home; all the lights worked. I think the battery is mainly just for starting! Replaced battery and all is well.

 

[FinalImpact]

Would a defective switch have resulted in an ECU code 46 though?

Typically not.

The kill switch is directly responsible for powering the Ignition Coils. A bad connection here compromises energy delivered to create spark for combustion.

From the battery there is the main fuse into the ignition fuse. This goes through ignition switch and the starter cut off relay and powers the fuel pump and injectors.

First step, fully charge the battery
--> because you found corrosion in one place I'd inspect / clean all the connections starting with:
Battery terminals
Fuses - includes main fuse at battery
RR
Starter cut off relay under pod
- would not hurt to inspect the kill switch solder joint
ECM main harness

A crazy spin off that I've never considered which is unlikely in this case but may apply elsewhere is that should the fuel pump suck in a load of rust and sediment, it would drop the voltage the CPU is monitoring and create an error 46.

 

[FinalImpact]

I've not heard it called pop start,

Brain sees this as Pop Tart! Blah

2nd gear for pop tart activities as 1st will zing the engine over at the cost of locking the rear tire. Whatever gear is used, be quick to pull the clutch!

For the pure sport of it, If I'm pointed down a slight incline I practice coast start, bump start, pop-tart activities just so I know how much speed is required to fire it off. Do this things on your terms to better prepare for "these days!"

 

[nthdegreeburns]

I had my fz6 throw the 46 code on me a few times after getting it and the previous owner just put a new battery in. Turns on the neg wasn't tight and worked its way loose

I'll lift the tank tonight and check the connection from my battery work a 2-3 months ago.

 

[nthdegreeburns]

First step, fully charge the battery
--> because you found corrosion in one place I'd inspect / clean all the connections starting with:
Battery terminals
Fuses - includes main fuse at battery
RR
Starter cut off relay under pod
- would not hurt to inspect the kill switch solder joint
ECM main harness

A crazy spin off that I've never considered which is unlikely in this case but may apply elsewhere is that should the fuel pump suck in a load of rust and sediment, it would drop the voltage the CPU is monitoring and create an error 46.

I'm charging the battery now (it was not ready this morning after 8 hours). Will test voltages this afternoon and check the terminal connection mentioned earlier in this thread.

Does it make sense to go and get all new fuses for the bike? Since the one 10A fuse I swapped had a little corrosion on it? Or is that tedious overkill?

Thanks,
nthdegreeburns

 

[ChanceCoats123]

As long as the fuses aren't blown, just rub them down with steel wool or a wire brush to clean corrosion. Maybe install them with a little dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.

 

[FinalImpact]

I'm charging the battery now (it was not ready this morning after 8 hours). Will test voltages this afternoon and check the terminal connection mentioned earlier in this thread.

Does it make sense to go and get all new fuses for the bike? Since the one 10A fuse I swapped had a little corrosion on it? Or is that tedious overkill?

Thanks,
nthdegreeburns

Its NOT overkill if the plating is gone and corrosion is taking over. Be sure to clean the female socket where the fuses seat. Otherwise a simple cleaning should be fine. Just make sure there are no burns, melting, pushed pins or connectors that don't align properly.

I like using small paint brushes, cleaning brushes with rigid bristles for cleaning. Commercial contact cleaner is pretty good but in pinch MAF (mass air flow) sensor cleaner works too. Once all parts are clean, apply dielectric grease to keep contaminants at bay.

Did you see the post in the other thread about lifting the seat and reaching the RR Red and Black wires? It makes checking the batteries state easy. Just probe the side of the bike.

Battery Voltage can be checked from the RR w/the seat off:
Shown is Cold start, @ 1500 RPM, 14.4vdc

 

[nthdegreeburns]

This was the EFI fuse we swapped with a spare last night...

View attachment 54679

I'll pull all the other fuses in the right side fuse box and replace them, I suppose.

Tested the battery under the seat (God bless you, FinalImpact and TownsendFJR1300).

Cold -- 13.00V

Crank -- 12.50V

Cold idle @ 1250rpm -- 14V

So charging and battery seem OK.

I'll be better about putting it on a tender I guess.

 

[ChevyFazer]

This was the EFI fuse we swapped with a spare last night...

View attachment 54679

I'll pull all the other fuses in the right side fuse box and replace them, I suppose.

Tested the battery under the seat (God bless you, FinalImpact and TownsendFJR1300).

Cold -- 13.00V

Crank -- 12.50V

Cold idle @ 1250rpm -- 14V

So charging and battery seem OK.

I'll be better about putting it on a tender I guess.

Unless I've missed it it sounds like you've checked just about everything other than the battery connections themselves. If all else seems to be good it wouldn't hurt to check. I know I spent about 3 weeks chasing my problem down going through all the steps you have until I finally looked at the battery and saw it wad a lose connection on the negative side

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

With the good voltages you posted, I would simply have the battery load tested. just to make sure. Its not dropping much at all when cranking (a sign of a good battery), just rule it out... +1 on checking battery connections too..

Re the fuses, I agree, with the corrosion on the one, I think I would replace the rest of them, their cheap enough and as Randy posted, di-lectric grease on ALL contacts.. I've seen fuses that look good but have intermediate current flow.

Checking voltage at the battery will also give you an idea of the batteries condition.

I noted in another thread, I get a max of 14.2 at the VR (higher RPM's) but the battery shows high 13.9's.

Its over 3 years old, on its way out, cranking voltage usually drops to 10 volts or so (very low), the dash dims occassionally (as a result of the battery) however it still cranks over fine, NO ERROR codes. Thats with the BD43 mod.

Whats your HOT idle set at?

(Mines about 1,100 and just breaks even at 12.8, 13 or so). You may want to raise that up some to 1,300, especially in stop and go traffic. You can also un-plug the high beam bulb and save 65 watts and see how it performs.

Note, If you needed to charge it when you got home and the system is charging, to me, it's pointing towards your running the battery down (even thou its charging as it should) but the RPM's (idle) are slightly too low..

Sitting in traffic, dual headlights, maybe the fan kicking on, lowish idle(maybe), you were probably below the 12.8/13 volt break even thresh hold and got the code popped.

I read you have a new OEM battery, do you know if it was charged BEFORE INSTALLATION on a tender? Also, rare, but does happen, a new battery can be bad (I kinda doubt thats your problem)

 

[nthdegreeburns]

Lifted up the tank this morning to check battery connections. Everything looked ok. Also changed all the 20A and 10A fuses on the side of the bike. Didn't have the right 30A fuse types for the main fuse at the battery.

Voltage cold was as follows:

View attachment 54698

It's a pain to keep those probes touching the leads to the battery, btw.

I also performed a key on / crank / idle test. Note -- this was not 100% a cold idle. I lost the first video when it was cold:

[vimeo]103638673[/vimeo]

Values seemed a bit lower than from the harness yesterday, but I also rode 50+ miles and didn't put it on a tender overnight.

 

[nthdegreeburns]

As for the idle, once warm, it's about 1000rpm. I started to tweak the idle screw, but I ended up hearing a bit of clattering as idle increased. I left it at about 1100 rpm for now.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Lifted up the tank this morning to check battery connections. Everything looked ok. Also changed all the 20A and 10A fuses on the side of the bike. Didn't have the right 30A fuse types for the main fuse at the battery.

Voltage cold was as follows:

View attachment 54698

It's a pain to keep those probes touching the leads to the battery, btw.

I also performed a key on / crank / idle test. Note -- this was not 100% a cold idle. I lost the first video when it was cold:

[vimeo]103638673[/vimeo]

Values seemed a bit lower than from the harness yesterday, but I also rode 50+ miles and didn't put it on a tender overnight.

That video looked good, what there was of it... You have to hold the throttle steady (at a higher, say 2500 RPM's, 5,000 peek voltage) for at least 5 seconds to let the VR catch up and see what it MAXES out to.

The battery voltage looked good, the idle and subsequent voltage seemed a bit low. What is the idle set at hot?

You need to crank up the idle, when at temp, so your seeing at LEAST 13 volts, (likely at least 1,100 RPM's-closer to 1250). I suspect that's one of the reasons Yamaha wants the idle that high..