Exhaust odor/smell in clothes?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So I tore off the exhaust for the 8th time with the addition of the cat pipe. Decided to take off the headers while I was at it. Found there are only two gaskets on the headers, could be part of the problem? Going to try and find someplace that can create a better fit between the y-pipe and cat pipe...

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That pic shows it partially damaged and partially pushed down (not using all the sealing area).

The OEM seals work just fine but the pipes need to be clean/ un-damaged, round.

Putting a little bit of hand dish soap on the gaskets when CAREFULLY installing the pipes together, with the correct Scorpion clamp
will make your system tight as a drum..

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

That pic shows it partially damaged and partially pushed down (not using all the sealing area).

The OEM seals work just fine but the pipes need to be clean/ un-damaged, round.

Putting a little bit of hand dish soap on the gaskets when CAREFULLY installing the pipes together, with the correct Scorpion clamp
will make your system tight as a drum..

I am going to try and find a place that will round them out for me, not sure how that is going to go. Are the header seals extremely important? Should I order all new ones? Just two new ones? You think I should order a new Header-cat pipe seal too?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Those seals appear to be all factory seals, (that's what the factory one's look like).

If you pick at that round seal, you can see it's easily damaged.

If it's not on fully, the slot in the pipe (to squeeze down on), will allow it to leak (it's not fully in contact with both pipes)

Re replacing the seals, with the issues you've been having, I'd personally replace all the seals. Their not terribly expensive.
A leaky head to header seal can burn a valve...

Start at the front, just slightly snug down and work your way back, again, go slow, some lubricant, maybe another person to help so the new gasket doesn't get chewed up, snug down and work your way back.

Once you know everything's correct start tightening down from the header back. Jiggle each pipe a little so it finds its "happy spot" (not stressed, causing excess vibs, etc).

You may have to loosen a hanger as well when re-assembling and then tighten down when everything's nice and lined up...

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

Those seals appear to be all factory seals, (that's what the factory one's look like).

If you pick at that round seal, you can see it's easily damaged.

If it's not on fully, the slot in the pipe (to squeeze down on), will allow it to leak (it's not fully in contact with both pipes)

Re replacing the seals, with the issues you've been having, I'd personally replace all the seals. Their not terribly expensive.
A leaky head to header seal can burn a valve...

Start at the front, just slightly snug down and work your way back, again, go slow, some lubricant, maybe another person to help so the new gasket doesn't get chewed up, snug down and work your way back.

Once you know everything's correct start tightening down from the header back. Jiggle each pipe a little so it finds its "happy spot" (not stressed, causing excess vibs, etc).

You may have to loosen a hanger as well when re-assembling and then tighten down when everything's nice and lined up...

You're talking about the cat pipe seal correct? I just left it for now until I can get a new one.

I found the other header seals, they were still in the block stuck in. I went ahead and cleaned and reused them.

I wasn't able to get the headers sparkling like yours, lol. I used mothers and scrubbed and scrubbed and they're still gold, not silver.

I went to a car shop and had them open the pipe up just by a bit. I do believe that now the cat pipe won't fit into the stock exhaust. But the seal between the cat and Scorp Y-pipe is tighter. Seems that most, if not all of the leak is gone. I think getting the correct size clamp might finish up the leak hopefully!

Will report back.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If the gaskets don't appear damaged and aren't leaking, I'd probably leave them...

The pic you have posted, that gasket was fairly tore up and in the area of your leak.

As noted previously, I could see that clamp was bottomed out and will NOT TIGHTEN DOWN FULLY..
Obviously the correct sized clamp is critical. As I re-call, there was an old style automotive clamp that would have distorted the
pipe too.. Hopefully the muffler guy got that flattened out and round again.

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

If the gaskets don't appear damaged and aren't leaking, I'd probably leave them...

The pic you have posted, that gasket was fairly tore up and in the area of your leak.

As noted previously, I could see that clamp was bottomed out and will NOT TIGHTEN DOWN FULLY..
Obviously the correct sized clamp is critical. As I re-call, there was an old style automotive clamp that would have distorted the
pipe too.. Hopefully the muffler guy got that flattened out and round again.

The Header->Cat gasket could be part of the problem, I would have to throw the stock exhaust back on, which I might do, to really narrow down the problem. I left the header gaskets, they seemed okay.

Yes, the exhaust clamp I have installed is big, hopefully getting the correct one soon. I was under the impression the clamp didn't do too much in the way of actually sealing the pipes as it does just keeping them together.

The car clamp I had on there before I barely torqued down, it was just a temporary setup. The guy I took it to said there isn't a way to make them round again if they are crushed. He didn't say the pipes were crushed though.

Do you recall having to really force the Y-pipe one way or another to get it straight with the bike? I feel like the fact the there is enough leeway between the Y-pipe and Cat pipe for me to pull it either direction by about an inch or two to straighten it means that the isn't a very good seal between the pipes. I will record a video or something next time I have it apart so you can see what I am talking about. Not impressed with the tolerances on the Scorps.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You could slip that assembly together WITHOUT CLAMPs, using just the mounting holes and the system will NOT fall off..

The clamp's tighten the system together and make it literally AIR TIGHT.

*Just like in your car, should you have an exhaust leak under the car, CO(exhaust) can get inside and kill you.


Re Scorpion installation / tightness, etc, I bought mine new...
My "Y" pipe slipped on fine but I had to go slow and make sure it was straight. No hammering, beating, Fit like a glove..

(The only issue was THAT clamp (Y pipe to CAT) which the bolt was slightly cross threaded brand new. I cleaned up the threads((repaired) with a thread tap from the other side).

Tolerances are fairly tight (as they should be).


One crushed pipe WILL SCREW THINGS UP.


You need to find another muffler shop, seriously . And bring both parts to them to see / examine.

A machine shop should be able to re-fit the parts as well...

Even if you don't have the proper hydraulic tool that expands muffler pipe, a snug pipe to go inside with a bit of
heat (oxy/ acetylene), likely RED HOT, will allow that pipe to open and get round again..

If I had both parts here, I have torches, very heavy piping, a HD vise, and could make it round again.

It has to fit correctly. The Scorps are not the issue, out of round , too big/too small pipe IS.

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

If I had both parts here, I have torches, very heavy piping, a HD vise, and could make it round again.

It has to fit correctly. The Scorps are not the issue, out of round , too big/too small pipe IS.

I think the pipes not fitting correctly to begin with is a fault of Scorpion though. Search on the forum and you will see many people with the same problem that I have, a loose fit after taking off the stock gasket when installing their new pipes. For the price of these exhaust systems, I think they should open the end of the Y-pipe to match the stocker so you can reuse the stock gasket. IMHO. They might have fixed the problem on the S2's exhaust though, which is what you have. I have the older version made for the S1, which is what it seems most people are having problems with.

Anyways I ordered the correct clamp and am going to take the exhaust to my trusted motorbike mechanic to check the fitment so I can rule out those two things. The closest dedicated exhaust shop is over 50mi away and my bike is my sole transportation. The connection right now takes a bit of pressure to get on, but isn't crazy to get on, and doesn't just slide on willy nilly. Also got a new gasket for the stock exhaust so I can determine if the stock setup is "sound". Which would rule out the Header-Cat connection.

Thanks for the offer, I appreciate the help.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I would think they wouldn't have changed the diameter, no reason to.
Typical OEM, gaskets thru out the system (which is GOOD!),

But, IME, (one install-mine, years ago), it fit very snuggly and the clamp sealed the pipes up just fine..

If you think about it, 99% of automotive systems, once you get to the pipes, do NOT have
gaskets, simply slip fit, especially the high end systems..And the high end kits (and car's)
use similar clamps as the Scorps..


Please post back what he finds and hopefully fixes...

Good luck!

 

[Nelly]

My bike also makes my clothes smell particularly on days when there is a light wind from the rear. I always put it down to the fact that the stock exhaust does not flow straight out on one side as the exhaust is fed from one side and the fumes have to filter out of the box and waft out.
Its an intermittent problem that for me is weather dependant.

Neil

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Interesting.

My sniffer works really, really well (I can smell someone smoking 3 cars ahead of me at 35 MPH).

I never smelt exhaust on my clothing from the bike...Now if I sat down on a chair / car seat in a smokers house,
it sticks to you(and can smell that really bad) and have to strip down in the garge as those clothes aren't going in the house
straight to the washer

I just came in with the boat, (4 stroke, 150 HP Yamaha) and as I passed another boat (among MANY), I could smell the exhaust.
Looked back after we passed, sure enough, a Yamaha TWO STROKE.. Little to no breeze, but definitely more fumes...

3/4 of the boat engines are now 4 strokes, mostly Yamaha's, some Mercury's...

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

Not to revive this dead thread, but Townsend wanted a update.

I had two different "professionals" look at the pipes. My usual MC mechanic said there was "nothing he could do for me", after having the pipes for a month. He said the fitment is good on the cat-y-pipe, but the cans are booger-ed up and that there is only so much that you can do. Another guy a friend recommended bashed a circle piece of metal into the can ports with a hammer to try and fix it.

I contacted Scorpion and they are providing me with new clamps through warranty *somehow*. I'm not complaining.

I learned a couple things while I had the stock exhaust. It seems like you will always get a bit of a stinky back on the FZ6 no matter how airtight the system is because of the neutral airspace behind your back. And also, the stock connection between the muffler and cat pipe spits out a lot of exhaust fumes before it gets warm and and the gasket expands.

With that said, even with the stock exhaust and an extremely carefully placed brand new gasket I was still getting a pin hole leak coming out of the suspension side even once the connection had warmed.

So now I am back where I started.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Do you have an aftermarket LARGER WINDSHIELD?

That would certainly cause a "low" in the c0ckpit and pull exhaust up there.

I can tell you, for me (5'9"), stock windshield, I never had an exhaust smell issue with either muffler.

What EXACTLY is boggered up, the end, fitment, ?

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

Do you have an aftermarket LARGER WINDSHIELD?

That would certainly cause a "low" in the c0ckpit and pull exhaust up there.

I can tell you, for me (5'9"), stock windshield, I never had an exhaust smell issue with either muffler.

What EXACTLY is boggered up, the end, fitment, ?

No, I actually am completely naked (the bike mind you ). One fin specifically on the can was bent all wrong by the previous owner. I will post up some pics when I take the system apart again when I get the all new clamps.

Do you wear a backpack when you ride? Throughout my entire ownership of my FZ, a backpack = sponge for exhaust fumes.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Nope, never a back pack.

I have a decent sized rack (Yamaha) attached to the passenger grab rail I bungee stuff to..

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

I gotcha.

Do you know what the torque of the clamps is on the Scorp system? I heard 110 ft/lbs someone, no idea if that is right or not. The installation guide Scorpion gives doesn't say anything about torque specifications.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I gotcha.

Do you know what the torque of the clamps is on the Scorp system? I heard 110 ft/lbs someone, no idea if that is right or not. The installation guide Scorpion gives doesn't say anything about torque specifications.

Just checked my instructions (still have them) and there are no torque spec's posted.

Do NOT go anywhere 110' lbs or you'll need new clamps...

Good and snug, maybe 30-35' lbs is plenty. If you want to spray a little soapy water inside the clamp when initially installing may help it slide on / tighten nice and tight.

Re-torque after a couple of heat cycles...

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

Just checked my instructions (still have them) and there are no torque spec's posted.

Do NOT go anywhere 110' lbs or you'll need new clamps...

Good and snug, maybe 30-35' lbs is plenty. If you want to spray a little soapy water inside the clamp when initially installing may help it slide on / tighten nice and tight.

Re-torque after a couple of heat cycles...

Okay thanks! Will report back when I get the clamps.

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

Got the clamps. Never made it to 35lbs, or even 20lbs. But got them all snug and set to go. Still getting a small leak from the y-pipe and one of the cans. I noticed when putting the cans on the right sides inner pipe on the y-pipe could probably stand to be opened up. Both cans go on and off that side very easily, might have to take it in for that. But once the pipes warmed the leaks mostly went away. As good as it's going to get I think. Thanks for the help Townsend.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As I recall, (I installed them ONCE), they fit VERY snugly, certainly Not loose.

Should you decide to screw with it anymore, a muffler shop has "exhaust pipe expanders".

Bring the pipes in question(loose) down there with the mufflers and have them expand (and make round again) until they fit snug.

That should help a bunch.

New clamps and tightening them can ONLY tighten the outside pipe so much.

If the inside pipe is TOO SMALL, you will have a leak no matter what.