degake
Stop flashing!! G$*%£#
One of the things that bothers me the most about the naked FZ6, is the poor lighting of the FZ6-N headlight.
Some people on the forum have put a plug and play HID replacement bulb into their headlight, which does give a much improved lighting.
However, with this sort of HID replacement, you'll also introduce a lot of extra glare, as the stock reflector isn't designed to use any bulb other than a H4 dual filament halogen bulb.
Comparing different specs (light output, cut-off, glare, etc.) of these plug and play bulbs versus HID projectors, I made up my mind to get myself into a bit more tinkering and going for a projector setup.
Capo79's thread has inspired me to get into modifying my headlight to accept a HID projector: [thread=18162]HID projector on my FZN - Complete [/thread]
There were only some minor issues that I had to overcome, after seeing the results made by Capo79.
First of all was the routing of all the wiring; "dumping" them all in the under seat storage seemed a bit too easy and made the only free, lockable space of the bike unusable.
Secondly; after asking some info to Capo79 as why he changed projector again (he went from the original G1 projector to a G3), he said that the G1 projector didn't gave the much needed light when driving in the dark.
He tried to fit the G3 projector, though it was to big, which lead to some problems: [thread=40738]F*cked up my headlight lens cover[/thread].
So the search began to find a projector with a decent light output, which wasn't too tall so it would fit the headlight housing.
At first, I came up with the newer G5 projector, which was only a bit taller than the G1, but had a better light output (the manufacturer stated it would even be better than the G3 light output).
I still had some thoughts about this projector and searched a bit further, continously looking at other projector retrofits done to faired versions of our beloved bike :spank:
I took a look at the website of TRS and looked at the Morimoto Mini H1 dimensions: they're too tall
But after browsing a bit more, I found another type of easy retrofit projectors on their website: the Morimoto Mini D2S projectors. I looked at the dimensions and thought: they should fit!! :cheer:
(I've remembered something Capo79 said to me: "If you need a bit of extra depth, aim your beam lower to clear the headlight lens. So I should have some extra room )
Here is a comparison between the Morimoto Mini H1 and D2S projectors:
So the decision was made: I was going to install the Morimoto Mini D2S projector into my headlight!!:cheer:
So the next part would obviously be ordering everything to need with.
As for all of you in the US; you have the chance of having a company like TRS to order stuff from.
Ordering from them and shipping to Europe would be a hasle (all the extra taxes/duties, shipping costs + time, ...), so I looked at what parts needed to be ordered.
The list consists of:
While searching for all the parts, I stumbled upon a business located at the Netherlands, which sells the Morimoto Mini H1s.
After mailing back and forth with the owner, he proposed to get me all the needed parts and ship them to me.
Best of all: it costed only €103 (134 uSD). (And it even included an Angel eye + converter, which I didn't use in the end )
So the definate list became:
I chose the GTI-R shroud, as it had the smallest diameter of all the available shrouds:
If anyone wants to get a quote of the same kit I used, including shimpent, let me know and I'll ask the company.
I also ordered some extra high temperature wire (you can't be too safe ) to extend all the relay wiring, some insulating hoses to run the wires through and some kynar shrinking tube, as I would solder every cable extension.
Some people on the forum have put a plug and play HID replacement bulb into their headlight, which does give a much improved lighting.
However, with this sort of HID replacement, you'll also introduce a lot of extra glare, as the stock reflector isn't designed to use any bulb other than a H4 dual filament halogen bulb.
Comparing different specs (light output, cut-off, glare, etc.) of these plug and play bulbs versus HID projectors, I made up my mind to get myself into a bit more tinkering and going for a projector setup.
Capo79's thread has inspired me to get into modifying my headlight to accept a HID projector: [thread=18162]HID projector on my FZN - Complete [/thread]
There were only some minor issues that I had to overcome, after seeing the results made by Capo79.
First of all was the routing of all the wiring; "dumping" them all in the under seat storage seemed a bit too easy and made the only free, lockable space of the bike unusable.
Secondly; after asking some info to Capo79 as why he changed projector again (he went from the original G1 projector to a G3), he said that the G1 projector didn't gave the much needed light when driving in the dark.
He tried to fit the G3 projector, though it was to big, which lead to some problems: [thread=40738]F*cked up my headlight lens cover[/thread].
So the search began to find a projector with a decent light output, which wasn't too tall so it would fit the headlight housing.
At first, I came up with the newer G5 projector, which was only a bit taller than the G1, but had a better light output (the manufacturer stated it would even be better than the G3 light output).
I still had some thoughts about this projector and searched a bit further, continously looking at other projector retrofits done to faired versions of our beloved bike :spank:
I took a look at the website of TRS and looked at the Morimoto Mini H1 dimensions: they're too tall
But after browsing a bit more, I found another type of easy retrofit projectors on their website: the Morimoto Mini D2S projectors. I looked at the dimensions and thought: they should fit!! :cheer:
(I've remembered something Capo79 said to me: "If you need a bit of extra depth, aim your beam lower to clear the headlight lens. So I should have some extra room )
Here is a comparison between the Morimoto Mini H1 and D2S projectors:
So the decision was made: I was going to install the Morimoto Mini D2S projector into my headlight!!:cheer:
So the next part would obviously be ordering everything to need with.
As for all of you in the US; you have the chance of having a company like TRS to order stuff from.
Ordering from them and shipping to Europe would be a hasle (all the extra taxes/duties, shipping costs + time, ...), so I looked at what parts needed to be ordered.
The list consists of:
- 1 Morimoto Mini D2S projector
- 1 D2S bulb
- 1 ballast
- 1 H4 bi-xenon harness
- 1 projector shroud
While searching for all the parts, I stumbled upon a business located at the Netherlands, which sells the Morimoto Mini H1s.
After mailing back and forth with the owner, he proposed to get me all the needed parts and ship them to me.
Best of all: it costed only €103 (134 uSD). (And it even included an Angel eye + converter, which I didn't use in the end )
So the definate list became:
- 1 Morimoto Mini D2S projector
- 1 D2S bulb (4300K)
- 1 slimline AMP ballast (with CanBus warning canceller, which really isn't needed on our bikes )
- 1 (slim) H4 bi-xenon harness
- 1 D2S to AMP converter (to connect the D2S bulb to the AMP connectors of the ballast)
- 1 HID (AMP) extension cable (note: you need to get an extension cord of at least 80cm (31.5"). I got a 120cm (47.2") cord)
- 1 GTI-R projector shroud (complete with shroud centric rings)
I chose the GTI-R shroud, as it had the smallest diameter of all the available shrouds:
If anyone wants to get a quote of the same kit I used, including shimpent, let me know and I'll ask the company.
I also ordered some extra high temperature wire (you can't be too safe ) to extend all the relay wiring, some insulating hoses to run the wires through and some kynar shrinking tube, as I would solder every cable extension.
- 18 AWG wire (3x 100cm (39.4"); I used 3 different colours (same as used in the relay harness) as to easily identify the correct wires. You could also use 300cm (118.2") of 1 colour wire.)
- 22 AWG wire (2x 150cm (59.1") (or 1x 300cm (118.2"; just as said above))
- insulation hose (different diameters/lengths: see what you all find best suiting)
- kynar shrinking tube (I preferred to use this shrinking tube, as it has a dielectric strength of at least 30kV/mm, which will be usefull when soldering the high voltage wires.)
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