Is the FZ6 A Smooth Shifting Bike?

YZ125

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Are the 2007+ Yamaha FZ6 bikes known to be smooth shifting bikes? From my research the inline 4 motor is very smooth and a blast to ride, but haven't found too much information on how they shift. Could the FZ6 owners give me their input regarding how well these bike shift compared to other bikes they have experience with?

I currently have a 2008 Kawasaki Ninja 250r and while it shifts well, I sometimes find to be a be a little clunky at times. Although it could be all in my head!

I appreciate your time and help!
 
Nope.

At least, my 06 with 25k miles on it isn't.

Definitely not compared with the new GSX-R 600 I rode a few weeks ago, or any supersport for that matter. You'll have some slop in the gearbox, just from the nature of the bike, it's a cheaper version to the R6, so it doesn't have the same fit and finish of a supersport.

That said, I've never ridden an FZ with fewer than 10k miles, so it could just be cause it's a well loved bike.
 
Are the 2007+ Yamaha FZ6 bikes known to be smooth shifting bikes? From my research the inline 4 motor is very smooth and a blast to ride, but haven't found too much information on how they shift. Could the FZ6 owners give me their input regarding how well these bike shift compared to other bikes they have experience with?

I currently have a 2008 Kawasaki Ninja 250r and while it shifts well, I sometimes find to be a be a little clunky at times. Although it could be all in my head!

I appreciate your time and help!

If you think the 250 Ninja is clunky, you'll be very disappointed in the FZ6. The 250 Ninja is like a hot knife cutting through butter in comparison. With the FZ6 everything needs to be perfect. Well adjusted and well lubed, pre-load the shifter is a must, and throttle on\off must be on the money. Even then, it won't be 250 Ninja smooth. The clunkiness is probably one of the top complaints with the FZ6. But, all of its other features make it worth tolerating.
 
Does it really matter though? The Fz6 is such a hoot to ride, I don't care if it shifted as abruptly as Obama's press secretary.
 
Some boxes are smoother than other. Oil quality can play a role. Drop into gear from a stand still, I don't think its much worse than other bikes.

Actual gear to gear shifting, can be very smooth if the rider inputs are smooth, but if you blow it, it lets you know with some loud clunks!
 
Some boxes are smoother than other. Oil quality can play a role. Drop into gear from a stand still, I don't think its much worse than other bikes.

Actual gear to gear shifting, can be very smooth if the rider inputs are smooth, but if you blow it, it lets you know with some loud clunks!

On my ride home today I realized you're right. Sure, any bike clunks when dropping into first or going to second through neutral - but yeah, when you're good on the throttle, accelerating or decelerating, it's like butter.
 
On my ride home today I realized you're right. Sure, any bike clunks when dropping into first or going to second through neutral - but yeah, when you're good on the throttle, accelerating or decelerating, it's like butter.

Exactly my thoughts!

Also, the higher the revs the smoother the gear changes get.
 
I pretty much agree with what's been said. It's up to the rider to do the shifting, and if it's done well, the bike will be very smooth.

I've found that because the rpm's drop so fast when you back off the throttle, heavy acceleration usually results in smoother shifts just because I pop the clutch real quickly and let it back out just as fast. If you do that and preload the shifter, it should be bang on. Just back off the throttle real quick.
 
Exactly my thoughts!

Also, the higher the revs the smoother the gear changes get.

+1 ^^^^. Going into first gear will always be a clunk.

Up shifting above 5k is smooth and can often be done without the clutch and sound, literally, like an automatic (and shift just as quick) with a little practice (just like the YZ..
 
On my ride home today I realized you're right. Sure, any bike clunks when dropping into first or going to second through neutral - but yeah, when you're good on the throttle, accelerating or decelerating, it's like butter.

Exactly my thoughts!

Also, the higher the revs the smoother the gear changes get.

While you're both here and knowing both of you wouldn't be dissipointed to get a little more from the little 600, give some thought to an hours worth of bonding time with the bike and advancing the ignition timing.
I bumped it roughly +5° and it removes some of that dead band, throttle chop down low. I've put it back stock twice and after advancing it again, it seems to make a difference. Read up on this and let me know if you want more details. Post 10 <--> http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...imppact-winter-project-playing-w-trigger.html

It does come with risk so its not for everyone. But you have a welder it can be undone or buy a new trigger wheel for $5. Also, I'd advise replacing what was removed (you're gonna file off a small amount from the rotors locater nub), but its painless.

/end thread derail
 
While you're both here and knowing both of you wouldn't be dissipointed to get a little more from the little 600, give some thought to an hours worth of bonding time with the bike and advancing the ignition timing.
I bumped it roughly +5° and it removes some of that dead band, throttle chop down low. I've put it back stock twice and after advancing it again, it seems to make a difference. Read up on this and let me know if you want more details. Post 10 <--> http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...imppact-winter-project-playing-w-trigger.html

It does come with risk so its not for everyone. But you have a welder it can be undone or buy a new trigger wheel for $5. Also, I'd advise replacing what was removed (you're gonna file off a small amount from the rotors locater nub), but its painless.

/end thread derail

Psh - not going to end this derailment. It's my plan - but before I do this I'd wanted to check my valve clearance - just to reassure myself that I'm not in any more imminent danger of blowing by advancing the timing. (I've read through all of those threads multiple times, and am eagerly anticipating when I'll have the time to do it!) Good writeups and I'm happy to hear that you're so happy with it.
 
I started with a N2007 Ninja 250 then bought a 2004 FZ6 with 2,800 miles on it. Rode the FZ6 for 44,000 miles then bought a new CBR600RR. When just puttering around below 5K the FZ6 can be clunky and difficult to shift smoothly. Preloading the shifter makes a big difference as well as the oil. I found Red Line to make the shifts smoother (please do not want to start an oil thread). However when you get serious with the FZ6 and bring the revs up it is a very smooth shifting bike. When shifting above 9 or 10 K it is about the same as my CBR which is very nice. IMO the FZ6 is an old R6 ans is more of a race box and does very well at high loading and RPM, but I never thought of it having poor quality or sloppy bad tolerances just a stout race box designed to last. If you are wondering the CBR does shift smoother at low speed and low RPM.

If you are thinking of buying an FZ6 I would not let the shifting keep me away. It is a bike that is incredibly flexible, a true jack of all trades.
 
I started on a Ninja 250 - I never thought it was very clunky... I didn't know any better.

Friend of mine started at the same time on a Buell Blast... NOW THAT IS CLUNKY.

So my next bike was a Vulcan 900 Custom... silky smooth.

After that, KTM Duke 2 - a 625cc single cylinder - if you can even manage to FEEL the shifts while riding that paint shaker of a bike, you'd think they were smooth enough... it's about the only smooth characteristic of the bike.

Now on the FZ6 I was just riding home yesterday thinking about how clunky it is... but it's not really off putting, just something your senses pick up on and your subconscious mind thinks about while riding it.

On a scale of 1-10 I rate the clunks...

Ninja 250 - 5
Buell Blast - 281
Vulcan 900 - 2
KTM Duke 2 - 3
FZ6 - 7
 
I started on a Ninja 250 - I never thought it was very clunky... I didn't know any better.

Friend of mine started at the same time on a Buell Blast... NOW THAT IS CLUNKY.

So my next bike was a Vulcan 900 Custom... silky smooth.

After that, KTM Duke 2 - a 625cc single cylinder - if you can even manage to FEEL the shifts while riding that paint shaker of a bike, you'd think they were smooth enough... it's about the only smooth characteristic of the bike.

Now on the FZ6 I was just riding home yesterday thinking about how clunky it is... but it's not really off putting, just something your senses pick up on and your subconscious mind thinks about while riding it.

On a scale of 1-10 I rate the clunks...

Ninja 250 - 5
Buell Blast - 281
Vulcan 900 - 2
KTM Duke 2 - 3
FZ6 - 7

Thank you for the comparison. It gives me a better understanding of the shift quality of the FZ6 without actually riding the bike.
 
I wouldn't let it deter you at all though. Clunky or not, it's a fun, reliable, comfortable bike... and as stated - bring the revs up a little and time it all just right and it's decently smooth. Of course, commuting on it at 6am I find myself shifting at like 4-5k rpm and it's not smooth then, not at all. lol
 
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