n00b with a mileage issue

[mrConceptual]

So I just bought my first bike (coming up on our 3 week anniversary) and after my first fill up I'm a bit worried.

Some background on the bike: when I bought it it had 13,6 xx miles, garge - kept for its whole life, and had one drop of which the frame slider took all the damage. Battery needed to be changed, it would go flat if the key was left on for 15 min, but the charging system is otherwise fine.

Back to the problem. I've ridden it now and after 107 miles I've already used an ENTIRE tank of gas. At just over 21 mpg I'm at a loss as to what the problem could be. I've already checked the air filter and for gas leaks and have come up empty (npi).

If anyone has any possible solutions I could try before taking it to the shop my students budget would be very greatful.

 

[7UPyours]

Mpg seems very low but what's your riding style, aggressive riding will net you low MPG but haven't seen them this low. On your fill up, how much gas did it take?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That mileage is literally HALF of someone dogging thier bike, something is definitly wrong..

Any error codes popping up on the display?

First off, check your air filter, if its cogged, it'll hurt your mileage.

If you don't have the owners manual, heres a site to download it for free:

Boneman's FZ6 Site - Mods


Although you have an 2007, I would be checking the TPS (Throttle position sensor):

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...ou-experiencing-poor-idle-mileage-stalls.html



Being you don't know much of the history on the bike, I'd run some fuel system cleaner thru the engine should the injectors be clogged/varnished up, etc. Checron Techtron is very good, Seafoam, pretty good as well..

The spark plugs likely need changing and if misfiring will also affect mileage as well, especially if one or two isn't firing/fouled...

There's also numerous threads on brakes sticking. Here's a thread to get you up to speed to check on any excessive brake drag, etc:

http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...cleaning-brake-calipers-need-little-help.html


With such poor mileage, I would think its a combination of several issues but nothing that can't be fixed.

Please post what you come up with, ie checking TPS, brakes, spark plugs, filter, etc.

 

[iSteve]

Are you absolutely sure it went from full to the top to a bit below reserve? Not just the gauge saying full and empty.

Do you drive in heavy traffic, a lot of stop and go maybe with a lot of idling?

 

[yamihoe]

is that even possible?
you would have to notice it running ridiculously rich to get that mpg.

 

[darius]

Do you use gears? Your gauge may be off a bit so more reliable to see how many gallons it takes to fill it up. At one bar I seem to have about 2 gallons left.

 

[Motogiro]

I agree with Mr. Scott on the possible bad TPS. Are you sure your mileage is that low?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I agree with Mr. Townsend on the possible bad TPS. Are you sure your mileage is that low?

Mr??? "Scott" will do just fine, :thumbup:

 

[fb40dash5]

Check your gears, chain, brakes, and tires. If you're geared different from stock, well, your odometer might be off for one, compounded with whatever loss of mileage you might see from the gears themselves. If your chain's all rusty and/or sticky, that'll hurt your mileage.

You should have 4 piston front calipers, so no slides to worry about up front, but pistons can stick. I've seen lines "flap" and create a check valve effect as well, although I've never seen it happen on a bike. As far as the fronts, you can try to gently pry the pads outward, the pistons should retract pretty easily. If not, you can check for a line issue by opening the bleeder (with a hose on the nipple, into a catch bottle) and see if that frees them up... if so, your lines are bad. The rear does have slides, they need to allow the caliper to slide side to side smoothly, and the piston again should retract easily. Proper brake grease is your friend here, I like the purple Permatex ceramic stuff. If your pins are corroded up, I know a few tricks you can try before resorting to replacing parts.

And as others said, you should be hand-calculating for any kind of accuracy. My personal method when fueling is on the kickstand, front tire straight, and I fill it til the fuel just gets to the little plate in the neck, so I know I'm real, real close to as full as last time... a 32oz. error is significant when you're only putting in 3 gallons.

IIRC I'm running 16/42 gears, and I think my worst tank was maybe 36mpg, pretty much the whole tank riding like I hated my right wrist, just for reference.

 

[mrConceptual]

Mpg seems very low but what's your riding style, aggressive riding will net you low MPG but haven't seen them this low. On your fill up, how much gas did it take?

I don't think this is the problem, as soon as I realized the tank was emptying rather fast I started paying a a lot more attention and I'm shifting <6k and cruising ~4.5k.

 

[mrConceptual]

Are you absolutely sure it went from full to the top to a bit below reserve? Not just the gauge saying full and empty.

Do you drive in heavy traffic, a lot of stop and go maybe with a lot of idling?

I'm not ABSOLUTELY sure, but the sloshing sound in the tank was towards the bottom for sure. And the only riding I've been dong is in traffic on city streets, I have yet to get her up on the freeway so all those miles were between stop lights.

Would the idling make that much difference?

 

[mrConceptual]

That mileage is literally HALF of someone dogging thier bike, something is definitly wrong..

Any error codes popping up on the display?

First off, check your air filter, if its cogged, it'll hurt your mileage.

If you don't have the owners manual, heres a site to download it for free:

Boneman's FZ6 Site - Mods


Although you have an 2007, I would be checking the TPS (Throttle position sensor):

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...ou-experiencing-poor-idle-mileage-stalls.html



Being you don't know much of the history on the bike, I'd run some fuel system cleaner thru the engine should the injectors be clogged/varnished up, etc. Checron Techtron is very good, Seafoam, pretty good as well..

The spark plugs likely need changing and if misfiring will also affect mileage as well, especially if one or two isn't firing/fouled...

There's also numerous threads on brakes sticking. Here's a thread to get you up to speed to check on any excessive brake drag, etc:

http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...cleaning-brake-calipers-need-little-help.html


With such poor mileage, I would think its a combination of several issues but nothing that can't be fixed.

Please post what you come up with, ie checking TPS, brakes, spark plugs, filter, etc.

No error codes, no flashing warnings. I checked the filter this morning and it seemed fine, hardly any dirt on the thing and nothing came off when i blasted it with the air compressor.

I'll try the fuel system cleaner tomorrow and check the brakes again. I had noticed a very low speed squeak from the front calipers but didn't think much of it. Will post with updates after.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you put the bike on the centerstand, lift the front end (I use a sizzor jack under the header), give the front wheel a good hard spin. If you can't get at least half to 3/4's a "free spin", the front brake calipers are dragging too much.

Yamaha calls for seal replacement every TWO YEARS. In real life, I've found 4- years is about the max before the seals harden up and won't re-tract the pistons.

Another easy way to check, go for a ride to say 50 MPH for 10-15 minutes, then (safely) stop quickly with the REAR BRAKE ONLY. Carefully feel the front discs. They should be cool/cold. If their hot, theres definitly an issue. You can repeat the same procedure to check the rear.

As a side note, I ride very similar to you, usually shifting arout 4-5K, all around town. Occassional higher RPM's. I'm getting just about 48 MPG..

Below is how to correctly adjust your chain after its CLEANED AND LUBED.

 

[mrConceptual]

If you put the bike on the centerstand, lift the front end (I use a sizzor jack under the header), give the front wheel a good hard spin. If you can't get at least half to 3/4's a "free spin", the front brake calipers are dragging too much.

Yamaha calls for seal replacement every TWO YEARS. In real life, I've found 4- years is about the max before the seals harden up and won't re-tract the pistons.

Another easy way to check, go for a ride to say 50 MPH for 10-15 minutes, then (safely) stop quickly with the REAR BRAKE ONLY. Carefully feel the front discs. They should be cool/cold. If their hot, theres definitly an issue. You can repeat the same procedure to check the rear.

As a side note, I ride very similar to you, usually shifting arout 4-5K, all around town. Occassional higher RPM's. I'm getting just about 48 MPG..

Below is how to correctly adjust your chain after its CLEANED AND LUBED.

When I checked the front wheel and got 3 full rotations out of the spin, so it's doubtful the front brakes are dragging.

When i checked the chain slack it was just about 1.5in, but I also noticed that the rollers on the chain look and feel VERY dry and the outside is a little gunky. I'm not entirely sure how the chain is supposed to look, though, so I don't know what to think.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

When I checked the front wheel and got 3 full rotations out of the spin, so it's doubtful the front brakes are dragging.

When i checked the chain slack it was just about 1.5in, but I also noticed that the rollers on the chain look and feel VERY dry and the outside is a little gunky. I'm not entirely sure how the chain is supposed to look, though, so I don't know what to think.

If your getting that many spins, your good in that department..

Re the chain, their shouldn't be any gunk on a cleaned chain and the rollers, o-rings etc, should spin nice and smooth. Hooking on the sprockets is a sign their worn, the chain NOT straightening out after coming off the front sprocket shows wear.

Edited by admin was a picture of the owners manual showing proper chain adjustment. With a good clean and lubed chain, you should have 2" of total play while on the CC. 1.5" is too tight, (clean, lube and re-check) probably from being dirty. Worn chains stretch, except when the links KINK, shortening them up...

Here's a link of the owners manaual if you don't have one, it has how to adjust it:

Boneman's FZ6 Site - Mods


Just as a side note, Cliff, can you please check on that edit. As it wasn't a direct upload of the Yamaha PDF manual but a picture (like a picture of your Yamaha motorcycle), I woukld think it'd be ok. Especially since owners manuals ARE DISTRIBUTED online for free without any re-percutions..

 

[04fizzer]

I would also pull the plugs and check their condition, while being ready to replace them. The plug condition could tell you of something else going on.

 

[Motogiro]

Just as a side note, Cliff, can you please check on that edit. As it wasn't a direct upload of the Yamaha PDF manual but a picture (like a picture of your Yamaha motorcycle), I woukld think it'd be ok. Especially since owners manuals ARE DISTRIBUTED online for free without any re-percutions..

I totally understand your thought on this.
To clarify. The staff have no way of knowing what copyright infringement exist on any particular picture of any manual, be it a free owners manual or a paid service manual. There would be no issue with the picture of your motorcycle unless some else took a your picture of it and claimed it as theirs. A dispute on a photo would likely be due to a dispute on a dollar amount.

U.S. law no longer requires the use of a copyright notice, although placing it on your work is often beneficial. Prior law did, however, contain such a requirement, and the use of a notice is still relevant to the copyright status of older works.

This circular (see link below)describes the copyright notice provisions enacted in the 1976 Copyright Act (title 17,U.S.Code), which took effect January1, 1978, and the effect of the 1988 Berne Convention Implementation Act, which amended the law to make the use of a copyright notice optional on copies of works published on and after March 1, 1989. Specifications for the proper form and placement of the notice are included.

Works published before January 1, 1978, are governed by the 1909 Copyright Act. Under that law, if a work was published under the copyright owner’s authority without a proper notice of copyright, all copyright protection for that work was permanently lost in the United States.
For more information about the law governing copyright notice before January 1, 1978, see 37 C.F.R.202.2, “Copyright Notice,” on the Copyright Office website at 301 Moved Permanently

Here's a link: http://www.copyright.gov/circs/circ03.pdf

Law can be interpreted many ways and still be confusing. Because of this we try to err on the side of caution and make our intent and effort as compliant to the copyright law as we possibly can.
You will see that after 1988 there is no requirement for copyright notice under U.S. law. This means we can pretty much count on any printed material being under copyright law.

I apologize for any inconvenience or shortcoming I may have caused in dealing with this. I have also had to change the course of how I help on tech. issues because of coyright.
I, as I know so many on the forum are very thankful for the tremendous job you do helping and walking us through so many of these repairs and maintenance procedures.

 

[CountryBoy]

You might have just been a little overzealous with your first tank? I know I was! :spank:
My advice would be: brim the tank, ride on the motorway until it's empty (fuel reserve, please don't actually run out of fuel!!!) and then do a manual calculation on your MPG. (Or, if you're lazy like me, get an app or use fuelly to do it