Need some conversion help (twin dominator)

[Erci]

My latest screen conversion hugely improved air flow...

But having ridden Speed Triple recently (and few screenless/standard bikes before), I know air flow can still be better.
So.. I think I'm gonna go ahead with the streetfighter conversion.

I'm going to go with twin dominator setup. (LOVE sublime0713's bike):

Here is what I know I will need:

The lights: Fly-N-Cycle Motorsports-Motorcycle Parts and Gear Online

The brackets: NON SLOTTED HEADLIGHT BRACKET KIT

Speedo cover: 2D1-83559-00-00

Mirrors: I think I'll try these: Black Motorcycle Bar End Mirrors for Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, Kawasaki, and Many other Models | Kapsco Moto

I've got some questions:

1. Lights are prewired and will function as one. I already have BD-dual-headlight mod. It looks like I could just plug the H4 side into the dominator harness. Is this correct?

2. How well do those brackets stay in place? From pictures, it looks like they may just tilt down from vibration.

3. Do the brackets have to be drilled to install OEM turn signals?

4. How is the speedo mounted? (I've seen the amazon link to speedo bracket.. is that the way to go?)

5. What's a good place to order speedo cover from?

I think that's all for now. Am I missing anything?

Thanks!

 

[sublime0713]

I've got some questions:

1. Lights are prewired and will function as one. I already have BD-dual-headlight mod. It looks like I could just plug the H4 side into the dominator harness. Is this correct?

2. How well do those brackets stay in place? From pictures, it looks like they may just tilt down from vibration.

3. Do the brackets have to be drilled to install OEM turn signals?

4. How is the speedo mounted? (I've seen the amazon link to speedo bracket.. is that the way to go?)

5. What's a good place to order speedo cover from?

I think that's all for now. Am I missing anything?

Thanks!

1. Correct. I had already done the BD43 mod as well, so it was easy, plug and play after I removed the excess wiring. I shortened between the frame and connectors so I could leave them in place, then taped, heat-shrunk, and plastic tubed the hell out of everything.
2. Once you torque the brackets down good and tight, they stay perfectly still. They will move if they are at all loose, though.
3. Yes, I just eyeballed the drilling locations.
4. You can go that route, but I actually made a "bracket" from some home depot metal straps (used for house tornado roof tie down, I'll try to find a link). Two of these in triangular formation, one on each of the left and right mounting points for the speedo, then the 3rd point at the mounting location under the top triple. I'll post a pic when I am home (didn't ride today).
5. Order from Bike Bandit, part # 6171531-001. Currently listing for $12.17.

I'll try to fill in the rest of the blanks this evening. Glad to see somebody else joining the club. :rockon:

 

[Erci]

Thanks! Looking forward to the pics. Can't visualize how the speedo is mounted.

 

[privateryan2]

Dont know how much this will help you with your set up but this is what I did for my Buell set up with mounting the speedo and the oem blinkers.

 

[privateryan2]

For mounting the speedo I just popped off the one bolt holding the cable guide in place. And made the bracket and used the same bolt I took off to hold the bracket in place than attached the speedo to that using the factory bolts/screws again. And so far they have held up (over 1k miles.)

 

[sublime0713]

That's exactly where and how I mounted mine, just went a slightly different route with the brackets. Pics later.

 

[sublime0713]

Here is my bracket. As you can see, I went function over form for this. At some point I will pull everything off and paint it black. I cut, ground, bent, and stacked these aluminum strips to form the 2 sides of the bracket. Mostly trial and error, with a little measurement.

 

[Erci]

Thanks again! Gonna order it all up today :thumbup:

 

[Erci]

Almost done. Still waiting for mirrors and have to clean up the wiring (got a full tank, so it'll be a few days before I can pull that sucker up).

Thanks once again for the helpful replies! :thumbup:

Spent about an hour in the saddle so far. Here are my impressions:

Wind noise: I intentionally rode without ear plugs (I use them 99% of the time). Much much quieter than with fairing. I'll use plugs on next ride.. I have a feeling it'll be just about silent.

Buffeting: What buffeting?

Light output: Much better than stock. Low beam has a wider pattern, making it easier to see into turns.

Bugs: I knew this part was going to be worse. Rode at dusk, yesterday and I was hitting so many bugs it almost felt like I was riding in the rain. The good part though is that they're not all directed to my helmet shield as they were with fairing.

My ultra-professional, hand-fabricated speedometer bracket:
(a bit concerned about the single mounting point.. hope it doesn't crack over time from vibration)

And here's my nearly-finished bike:

 

[sublime0713]

Looking good! Love that headlight. My blue fraternal twin.
Are you going to keep the stock turn signals or switch to something else (read: smaller)? Just wondering.

Also, just FYI, I didn't use the center mounting point on the speedo and it works just dandy. Had it on for about 6 months now. :thumbup:

 

[Erci]

Looking good! Love that headlight. My blue fraternal twin.
Are you going to keep the stock turn signals or switch to something else (read: smaller)? Just wondering.

Also, just FYI, I didn't use the center mounting point on the speedo and it works just dandy. Had it on for about 6 months now. :thumbup:

Thanks!
I kinda like stock turn signals *shrug*. Are 3-wire aftermarket signals (same use as OEM.. running lights + signals) readily available?
Yeah, I was pretty sure center mount wasn't really necessary for speedo, but figured since I'm doing all the bending and grinding, might as well put that piece in too

 

[Erci]

Oh.. forgot to mention one thing. The fork clamps we are using (link in my original post) mounted anywhere but at the very top of fork legs will hit the frame at full lock. Not a huge deal and it'll only take away just a little bit of turning radius, but thought it was worth mentioning.
I moved mine all the way to the top and they clear the frame and still look pretty good.

 

[sublime0713]

Yeah the clamps do hit, but it only took away like a centimeter of clearance on each side so I wasn't worried about it. But thanks for pointing it out for others who might do the conversion.

As far as 3 wire signals, I just used 2 wire signals, with nothing on the 3rd wire, and they work fine. Not nearly as visible as the stocks, but of course looking cool is the most important part. :BLAA:

 

[Erci]

Went for a one hour ride, last night, with ear plugs in. Just as I was hoping.. it's very quiet. This is exactly what I was hoping for and the #1 reason why I converted (well.. noise and turbulence). :thumbup:

 

[Erci]

Painted the speedometer bracket in my "paint booth"

Relocated the horn. Pulled up the tank, pulled out the battery, battery box and air box and tucked as much of the wiring harness into the frame. Cut off all original connectors and replaced with bullet disconnects and taped everything up.

And I'm pretty much done for now (STILL haven't received the mirrors.. damn customs!)

 

[skooter65]

"Holy thread resurrection Batman!"

I was just curious if this set-up has running lights?

Also, do you have high-beam on both lamps?

Digging into my dual headlight; I found that the previous owner "modified" some of the connections...oh boy!


Thank you Erci!!

 

[Erci]

"Holy thread resurrection Batman!"

I was just curious if this set-up has running lights?

Also, do you have high-beam on both lamps?

Digging into my dual headlight; I found that the previous owner "modified" some of the connections...oh boy!


Thank you Erci!!

I've made several changes since then.. this is the latest:

This setup does have running lights. I originally used stock signals, but changed to Lockhart Phillips 3-wire ones.. stocks kept killing bulbs because there was nothing there to soak up vibration.

Both low and high beams are set up to work on both sides. As I mentioned in another post.. with Silverstars in place, these suckers light up the road very well!

 

[skooter65]

This setup does have running lights. I originally used stock signals, but changed to Lockhart Phillips 3-wire ones.. stocks kept killing bulbs because there was nothing there to soak up vibration.

Both low and high beams are set up to work on both sides. As I mentioned in another post.. with Silverstars in place, these suckers light up the road very well!

Thank you for the prompt Reply!

This is what I had anticipated. Have you made any provisions to turn off the low beam when the high beam is switched (Something similar to Motogiro's relay Modification)?

And then...Do you happen to have the wiring instructions that came with your kit???

No and then!

Thank you again!

 

[Erci]

Thank you for the prompt Reply!

This is what I had anticipated. Have you made any provisions to turn off the low beam when the high beam is switched (Something similar to Motogiro's relay Modification)?

And then...Do you happen to have the wiring instructions that came with your kit???

No and then!

Thank you again!

Sorry if I wasn't clear.. let me try one more time:

The headlights are wired in-line. So imagine it's like only having one 3-prong plug. Both light up to low. When flipped to high beam, lows go off and highs go on.. just like the stock setup.

My headlights did not come with instructions. I just had my stock harness which had the right side modified to run both low and high properly, using BD43's wire. It was as simple as plug-n-play.. only it left 17 extra feet of wires hanging, so I had to chop a whole lot of that off and tuck the rest into the frame.

Hope that helps.

 

[skooter65]

Sorry if I wasn't clear.. let me try one more time:

The headlights are wired in-line. So imagine it's like only having one 3-prong plug. Both light up to low. When flipped to high beam, lows go off and highs go on.. just like the stock setup.

My headlights did not come with instructions. I just had my stock harness which had the right side modified to run both low and high properly, using BD43's wire. It was as simple as plug-n-play.. only it left 17 extra feet of wires hanging, so I had to chop a whole lot of that off and tuck the rest into the frame.

Hope that helps.

I may be wrong, as I only have a single lamp unit on my FZ6 at the moment; but I am fairly certain that the low beam does not turn-off when the high beam is turned on in the stock form of the FZ6.

Except pulled from Motogiro's relay kit:
The issue is lighting the unused low beam filament, but when the high beam filament is turned on, the low beam filament must be turned off to prevent over heating of the lamp socket, associated plastics and to prevent premature lamp failure. Additionally this reduces wattage consumption when measured against running the high beam during the day for added visibility. That is what this relay assembly does. It provides voltage to the unused low beam filament and turns off the low beam when the high beam is activated which is normal function for a high and low beam lamp. With this properly installed assembly the FZ6 or any bike with this type OEM design headlamp system can be much improved.

Again, perhaps the Twin-dominator combined wiring rectifies this potential issue. Howevere, it may be wort looking into.

Thank you again for the responses. I don't care what the rest of the forum says about you, you are a good guy in my eyes