Newbie question: What tools do I need for an oil change and chain adjustment?

[Johnson]

Ah everything is so smooth now with the new chain and sprocket!

Just a quick question, I noticed an almost whistling /siren-like sound occasionally that seems to occur when deaccelerating at highway speeds. I thought it was a siren at first but paid more attention my second trip and can't quite make out what it is. Is there any sort of chain breaking in period that would cause this? The mechanic also replaced my rear brake pads if that matters?

 

[trepetti]

Post a video of the sound if you can. Does it happen at slower speeds? Maybe not as loud? Check to make sure the chain is not too tight. As Scott and others have mentioned, when you get it right it looks too loose. But it’s not. Too much tension and you will damage the output bearing on the transmission. The whine might be coming from the bearing.

Maybe put the bike on the center stand and take a video of the slack. Move the chain up and down to show the slack, then post the video here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Johnson]

Good call about the slack, I will check in the morning when the light is out. I gave the mechanic a copy of the manual and told him it's looser than most bikes at 45 - 55 mM. Speaking of the manual it is a big ambigous in terms of where to take the measurement, is the 1" in the diagram from the front sprocket? I've also been told to determine halfway point from rear and front sprocket and take the slack measurement there.

 

[zixaq]

Good call about the slack, I will check in the morning when the light is out. I gave the mechanic a copy of the manual and told him it's looser than most bikes at 45 - 55 mM. Speaking of the manual it is a big ambigous in terms of where to take the measurement, is the 1" in the diagram from the front sprocket? I've also been told to determine halfway point from rear and front sprocket and take the slack measurement there.

Measure at the point of maximum play, which will be about halfway between the contact points with the sprockets. On the S1 bikes at least, this is conveniently right at the back end of the plastic chain guard on the swingarm, and with the proper 50mm of play, the chain just contacts the swingarm when you push it up. Makes quick checks simple in between more meticulous ones. Just make sure to do the check on the center stand and not the side stand.

A chain on the tight side of that range will make a whining noise, but the loose side of that range gives you annoying drive train slack and jerkier on/off throttle response, so pick your poison.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

This ^^^. TWO INCHES TOTAL (NOT 1").

Put a tape measure at the end, (under the swing arm) of the plastic chain guard.

Slowly spin the rear wheel and find the tightest spot. Now, take your tape measure and line it up perpendicular with that link PIN. Push that pin UP (medium pressure)
and center your ruler on the pin. Now, push the chain down reading the ruler. THAT is you chain play. You'll find (on the center stand), the chain just about touches
the lower swing arm guard.

And NO, the whining is NOT normal, the chain is too tight.. Seems your mechanic didn't bother reading it...

Keep it well lubed and it'll stay quiet.

Expect one to two adjustments as it breaks in (mine took one adjustment).

 

[Johnson]

Thanks for all the help guys, another thing I've noticed (and I thought this was a solid mechanic, he did my tire install so well...) is at first gear or at a stop the engine will just die and the check engine light will come out. Fortunately it restarts upon clicking the starter button but could there be anything that mechanic did during a chain/sprocket and rear brake change to cause this? Initially I thought it could be oil issues since I just did my first oil change ever a few weeks ago or perhaps a lack of warm up as the weather abruptley turned cold this week. I did replace my battery earlier this year so don't think its that. Just not sure if it the coincidence is due to the weather or something the mechanic did....

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The oil change and chain./sprocket change would not have affected the idle.

Your warm idle should be about 1,300 RPMs. If too low, the adjustment screw is in-between the left side of the tank and the frame
(a star shaped screw). A phillips head screw driver turned clockwise will raise it..

Is the check engine light staying on after it's running?

 

[zixaq]

Is this only happening when the bike is cold?

Does it also happen in neutral?

What's your idle RPM?

 

[Johnson]

Well the chain slack is right on the tight side at 45 mm.

The engine will die while I am in first gear, another forum mentioned throttle body sync on another forum?

Idle RPM is 1300 - 1500.

Also noticed while in idle the chain is slowly moving which I don't this has happened before or maybe I didn't notice.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well the chain slack is right on the tight side at 45 mm.

The engine will die while I am in first gear, another forum mentioned throttle body sync on another forum?

Idle RPM is 1300 - 1500. A little high, it can be lowered..

Also noticed while in idle the chain is slowly moving which I don't this has happened before or maybe I didn't notice.

This is normal..

I know the bike is new to you.

Has the engine ever run correctly (no issues) and if so, how long?

You mentioned you changed the battery. Re-check the nut tightness. If loose, they CAN cause issues.

Throttle body sync. It certainly can't hurt but I doubt it's your issue. It'd run the same, (crappy) all the time...

 

[Johnson]

I've had it for about a year and have about 10,000 miles on it.

Haven't had this issue before and only occurred recently after the chain/sprocket change.

The battery was replaced earlier this year, actually on a tender right now as I am debating loosening the slack a bit.

The mechanic did lube the kickstand, any way that could impact the sensor, would that kill the engine if that was off?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I've had it for about a year and have about 10,000 miles on it.

Haven't had this issue before and only occurred recently after the chain/sprocket change.

The battery was replaced earlier this year, actually on a tender right now as I am debating loosening the slack a bit.

The mechanic did lube the kickstand, any way that could impact the sensor, would that kill the engine if that was off?

Thanks for the update.

The safety switch for the kick stand can and does (rarely) fail. It, as well as the handle bar RED KILL SWITCH does fail if used often and will definitely cause issues.

The mechanic would NOT have opened that up for lubing the stand.
You can look underneath, with the side stand up-You'll see a roundish tab pushes the switch "pin" inwards. Should that be damaged (very likely NOT)would cause issues. The side stand switch has a small spring inside it, packed with grease. One member had that spring rust out and cause issues. (I pulled mine apart, inspected and re-greased).


**Re-reading your thread, I have an idea where your issue may be...

The left side SPROCKET COVER has 3 bolts (allan head) that hold it on.

That cover has to come off for the sprocket change.
Now, there are TWO SEPARATE, sleeved wires that run on the rear side of the stator cover. *It is very easy to pinch one OR BOTH OF THOSE WIRES when re-assembling the sprocket cover to the block.

Find those two sleeved wires, and make sure they are FREE, can move easily and are NOT pinched. There should also be some small wire retainers so they don't flop about...

 

[Johnson]

Thank you for the suggestion. I'll take a look in the morning. I loosened the chain slightly and haven't noticed the whinning sound but haven't made my normal work commute so tomorrow will know for sure.

Again thank you for everyone's help. Very appreciative.

 

[Johnson]

I just want to confirm what the sprocket cover is as I realized I have no idea what that is before I started unscrewing things... I think it is this weird shaped piece with writing on the bottom since it is the only one held on by three hex bolts but wanted to confirm. Also since you did mention it, it does sort of look like one of the two black wires in . Will I be able to remove it without doing anything else? It looks like the..."rod" from the top that connects from the clutch is in the way?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I just want to confirm what the sprocket cover is as I realized I have no idea what that is before I started unscrewing things... I think it is this weird shaped piece with writing on the bottom since it is the only one held on by three hex bolts but wanted to confirm. Also since you did mention it, it does sort of look like one of the two black wires in . Will I be able to remove it without doing anything else? It looks like the..."rod" from the top that connects from the clutch is in the way?

Your pic doesn't post...

That is the correct part. And no, you don't have to remove the shifter rod. You will have to jiggle/maneuver it to get it out thou. The writing on the bottom of the cover is the "shifter sequence #'s".

Both of those two wires, you SHOULD be able to touch/move as their held with some small retainers from that stator cover. If you can't, their likely pinched.

You'll find a bunch of chain goo under that cover too(on the block and engine). Doesn't hurt to remove it.

I circled it on my bike (old pic):

 

[Johnson]

Maybe this link will work:

https://imgur.com/tlMy2TC

Regardless,thank you for confirming. What do those two wires do and one of them (the one farther back) is definitely pinched.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Maybe this link will work:

https://imgur.com/tlMy2TC

Regardless,thank you for confirming. What do those two wires do and one of them (the one farther back) is definitely pinched.

Excellent!!

Can't tell from that pic... Simply remove the three screws and the cover and inspect...Nothings going to jump out at you..

One goes to the kick stand safety switch and the other should be for the stator (charging system).

You can follow the one to the safety switch (side stand), the other goes up into the mid section of the bike, (ECU, voltage regulator).

CAREFULLY cut the outer shield off the pinched wire, then repair, replace, etc. Then re-tape up with electrical tape (and heat it to melt it for a better seal).

If you have to cut a damaged wire, a heat shrink later applied would be best.

Which wire is damaged (I'm betting the side stand)?


*You could bring it back to the mechanic to repair his screw up, but I'd be watching what he's doing as he's
not paying much attention to his work... (Note: it easy to get those wires tucked in there, BUT, it should been assembled
the same was it came apart). You paid for a professional job from a "professional" mechanic...

 

[Johnson]

Excellent!!

Can't tell from that pic... Simply remove the three screws and the cover and inspect...Nothings going to jump out at you..

One goes to the kick stand safety switch and the other should be for the stator (charging system).

You can follow the one to the safety switch (side stand), the other goes up into the mid section of the bike, (ECU, voltage regulator).

CAREFULLY cut the outer shield off the pinched wire, then repair, replace, etc. Then re-tape up with electrical tape (and heat it to melt it for a better seal).

If you have to cut a damaged wire, a heat shrink later applied would be best.

Which wire is damaged (I'm betting the side stand)?


*You could bring it back to the mechanic to repair his screw up, but I'd be watching what he's doing as he's
not paying much attention to his work... (Note: it easy to get those wires tucked in there, BUT, it should been assembled
the same was it came apart). You paid for a professional job from a "professional" mechanic...

You are right, doesn't hurt to inspect, I just have an irrational fear of taking things apart and not being able to put them back together.

I can't tell if the second wire is damaged but it definitely clamped between the sprocket cover whereas the other wire is free. I am not near bike but don't recall which one is the one that is stuck.

You bring up a good point of just taking it back to the mechanic and he is aware of my recent issues. I was debating having him install my heated grips but I've lost a bit of confidence with him after all this.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you have an allan key (probably one in the tool kit under the seat) that fits, the 3 bolts loosen counterclockwise...

Both wire looms should be free of ANY pinching. You should have several "clips" the wires slip into(attached to the rotor cover).
The wires simply slip in there...

Can't get much simpler than that.. DO IT!!



If you need the owners manual for your bike, PM me with the year bike(and e-mail address). I have them as a PDF file. .

.

 

[Johnson]

If you have an allan key (probably one in the tool kit under the seat) that fits, the 3 bolts loosen counterclockwise...

Both wire looms should be free of ANY pinching. You should have several "clips" the wires slip into(attached to the rotor cover).
The wires simply slip in there...

Can't get much simpler than that.. DO IT!!



If you need the owners manual for your bike, PM me with the year bike(and e-mail address). I have them as a PDF file. .

.

Ok wasn't too bad to take out, placing it back in was like a game of tetris but managed.

The wire was to the kick stand and although it didn't seem damaged it was definitely pinched between the sprocket cover.

Also now that you mentioned it, when I tested the idle RPM the other day it was just placing bike in neutral and letting it set for a few mins and it was fine.

Although I am now noticing after actual riding, rather than just placing it in neutral the rpms are <1000 around 900-950.

If this unpinching of the kick stand wire doesn't fix it, should I increase the idle rpms via the screw you suggested earlier?