Newbie question: What tools do I need for an oil change and chain adjustment?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ok wasn't too bad to take out, placing it back in was like a game of tetris but managed.

The wire was to the kick stand and although it didn't seem damaged it was definitely pinched between the sprocket cover.

Also now that you mentioned it, when I tested the idle RPM the other day it was just placing bike in neutral and letting it set for a few mins and it was fine.

Although I am now noticing after actual riding, rather than just placing it in neutral the rpms are <1000 around 900-950.

If this unpinching of the kick stand wire doesn't fix it, should I increase the idle rpms via the screw you suggested earlier?

So the bike is NOW running correctly, just a low idle??? You alluded to that...


Did you actually inspect the wire that was pinched?? Just pulling it out doesn't mean the internal wire itself is fine..
(You can post a pic, which may help.).

I keep my idle on the low side, 1,100 RPM's but yes, turn the idle up to 1250/1300 or so . You should do that NOW, you can turn it down later once the wire issue is sorted.

As you noted, what the mechanic worked on, and then the issues were all the SAME TIME. That tells me the pinched wire IS AFFECTING THE BIKE..

The kick stand switch would normally NOT affect the idle. However, if it was shorting out (from being pinched) the switch IS
designed to kill the engine one going into gear WITH THE KICK STAND EXTENDED... So intermediate shorting / broken wire
could cause all your issues..(And apparently is).

 

[Gary in NJ]

Use an exacto knife and remove the plastic/pvc coating on the wire to inspect the copper wire strands at the pinch location. If they are compromised you will need to cut/splice/crimp the wire to repair it. If the strands are not damaged, you can simply use electrical tape to cover the area that you opened for inspection.

 

[Johnson]

So the bike is NOW running correctly, just a low idle??? You alluded to that...


Did you actually inspect the wire that was pinched?? Just pulling it out doesn't mean the internal wire itself is fine..
(You can post a pic, which may help.).

I keep my idle on the low side, 1,100 RPM's but yes, turn the idle up to 1250/1300 or so . You should do that NOW, you can turn it down later once the wire issue is sorted.

As you noted, what the mechanic worked on, and then the issues were all the SAME TIME. That tells me the pinched wire IS AFFECTING THE BIKE..

The kick stand switch would normally NOT affect the idle. However, if it was shorting out (from being pinched) the switch IS
designed to kill the engine one going into gear WITH THE KICK STAND EXTENDED... So intermediate shorting / broken wire
could cause all your issues..(And apparently is).

You are correct I didn't really inspect it just assumed it was fine after making sure it was stuck.

The engine cutting off still occurred this morning; generally happens when I am in first gear in sit and go traffic and as far as I can tell it happens randomly.

To clarify, the RPMs start out 1100 or so but as I start to commute I notice when I am stoped at lights or coasting it lower below <1000, is that normal. Low RPMs wouldn't cause the engine to shut off would it?

Would the kick stand kill switch only kill it at low speeds though and not at high speeds? I have not had that happened yet (thankfully).

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Good, progress.

Now, basic's first...

Turn the idle speed (when at temp) to 1,300 RPM's, period...

The engine spec's call for 1,300, set the engine for 1,300.

I believe I posted about the TPS earlier. The TPS for that year bike had a re-call.
Did you call Yamaha, give them your VIN# and see if it was replaced?


And if the idle IS LOW ENOUGH, of course it could shut off. The electric's aren't putting out the current
(for the ECU, electronic's, etc), oil pressure will be lower, etc.


Lastly, did you happen to read the owners manual????

Setting idle speed CORRECTLY is as basic as you can get.


.

.

 

[Johnson]

Good, progress.

Now, basic's first...

Turn the idle speed (when at temp) to 1,300 RPM's, period...

The engine spec's call for 1,300, set the engine for 1,300.

I believe I posted about the TPS earlier. The TPS for that year bike had a re-call.
Did you call Yamaha, give them your VIN# and see if it was replaced?


And if the idle IS LOW ENOUGH, of course it could shut off. The electric's aren't putting out the current
(for the ECU, electronic's, etc), oil pressure will be lower, etc.


Lastly, did you happen to read the owners manual????

Setting idle speed CORRECTLY is as basic as you can get.


.

.

Never thought to adjust the idle speed but agree super easy to do and will do so and make sure it is in spec.

Just thought the shutoff was odd to happen right after the chain/sprocket replacement along with the cold weather. Figured one of those two caused the random shut offs. Is there anything that would cause the idle speed to drop from within spec to out?

All this maybe for a mute point if the weather continues to drop and I may have to just store her but trying to extend the riding season as long as possible...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Cold weather may make a "compromised" wire ground out / not work properly. Once that issue is repaired, it IS a moot point.

Seems your NOT GOING TO ANSWER ABOUT CHECKING THE TPS RE-CALL.

Until then (a very possible cause) , I'm NOT responding anymore.

Good luck...



.

 

[Johnson]

Cold weather may make a "compromised" wire ground out / not work properly. Once that issue is repaired, it IS a moot point.

Seems your NOT GOING TO ANSWER ABOUT CHECKING THE TPS RE-CALL.

Until then (a very possible cause) , I'm NOT responding anymore.

Good luck...



.

Sorry forgot to reply to that point but did call the dealer a year or so ago when I got the bike that it was performed already or not needed (don't recall which) but did call them with my Vin#

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ok, thanks...

So with the idle set higher, any more issues?


.

 

[Johnson]

Ok, thanks...

So with the idle set higher, any more issues?


.

Will update this weekend or early next week as weather and plans prevent me from riding until then.

Thanks again though for your help, if you are ever in NY I owe you an adult beverage.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

No problem, (if it's fixed!).

I'm from LI, NY. Got my MC license there

 

[Johnson]

You're in Florida now right? Well if you are ever back in NYC let me know.

Unfortunately, I had a hand injury that looks like it will sideline me for at least a month so this just might be the end of my season

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just cleaned up under that cover on my bike.

Re those two separate lines.

One goes to the kick stand safety switch, the other line goes to the "low oil" switch located in the middle
of the oil pan.

THAT line would NOT cause running issues, just light light up your engine light (telling you your oil level is low-NOT pressure related).

 

[Johnson]

Just cleaned up under that cover on my bike.

Re those two separate lines.

One goes to the kick stand safety switch, the other line goes to the "low oil" switch located in the middle
of the oil pan.

THAT line would NOT cause running issues, just light light up your engine light (telling you your oil level is low-NOT pressure related).

Still haven't had a chance to test it since upping the idle rpms. I think I can drive with my injured hand (just ring finger clutch side), if I get shorty levers I should be able to pull it with my thumb, index and middle. Just unable to with normal levers and splint on the injured finger. Ordered off something on Ebay and will give it a whirl whenever it arrives. Any links you know off the top of your head for lever installation?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

It's one nut and one bolt for each lever... Remove the lower nut, then remove the upper bolt. Remove clutch cable from lever.
Reverse for re-assembly with a little grease at the pivot points..


A couple of members had issues with the cheap levers (not machined correctly-brake lever not releasing fully).

As you already ordered them, keep an eye that your front brake continues to release (no pressure build up), and both lever switches continue to work.

 

[Johnson]

It's one nut and one bolt for each lever... Remove the lower nut, then remove the upper bolt. Remove clutch cable from lever.
Reverse for re-assembly with a little grease at the pivot points..


A couple of members had issues with the cheap levers (not machined correctly-brake lever not releasing fully).

As you already ordered them, keep an eye that your front brake continues to release (no pressure build up), and both lever switches continue to work.

Ok sounds simple enough but what exactly do I exactly use for grease?

Thanks for heads up on the front brake, I did order these from Ebay, soo.....

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ok sounds simple enough but what exactly do I exactly use for grease?

Thanks for heads up on the front brake, I did order these from Ebay, soo.....

Regular automotive wheel bearing grease is fine.. Water proof or resistant preferred.

It's not super critical..

It should be in your owners manual... I have the manual as a PDF if you need one. PM me with an address.
Basic maintenance is also covered in there...

 

[Johnson]

Regular automotive wheel bearing grease is fine.. Water proof or resistant preferred.

It's not super critical..

It should be in your owners manual... I have the manual as a PDF if you need one. PM me with an address.
Basic maintenance is also covered in there...

I do have the manual (I know I should read it more ha) but thank you for offering.

So ignored the doctor's order to rest hand/got restless and took it to work: no issues with the random cut off since upping the idle. Just curious would something cause it to drop below the recommend range you mentioned earlier? One would think once it's set it would stay there?

I am not sure but I think the whining/siren-like sound is back even after chain adjustment. Not exactly sure as it's hard to hear as I think it only ocurs once I am at highway speeds and then have to slow down to first or second gear due to traffic and I normally have headphones on with music/directions. Maybe I'll turn down the music and see if I can hear it better.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I do have the manual (I know I should read it more ha) but thank you for offering.

So ignored the doctor's order to rest hand/got restless and took it to work: no issues with the random cut off since upping the idle. Just curious would something cause it to drop below the recommend range you mentioned earlier? One would think once it's set it would stay there?

I am not sure but I think the whining/siren-like sound is back even after chain adjustment. Not exactly sure as it's hard to hear as I think it only ocurs once I am at highway speeds and then have to slow down to first or second gear due to traffic and I normally have headphones on with music/directions. Maybe I'll turn down the music and see if I can hear it better.

The idle RPMs should stay pretty steady. What RPM warm is it idling?

Can you upload a video of it idling, etc?

How much difference (RPM wise) variance are you having at idle?


If you have 2" chain play (at the TIGHTEST POINT), no it should not whine at all...

What type of chain lube are you using and are you keeping it lubed enough (after rain, often enough, etc)?

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.

 

[Johnson]

The idle RPMs should stay pretty steady. What RPM warm is it idling?

Can you upload a video of it idling, etc?

How much difference (RPM wise) variance are you having at idle?


If you have 2" chain play (at the TIGHTEST POINT), no it should not whine at all...

What type of chain lube are you using and are you keeping it lubed enough (after rain, often enough, etc)?

.



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I will double check tomorrow but I do notice it was a bit higher than 1300 when I first start it up. However when I am stopped at a light (usually in 1st gear with clutch in) its just a tad over 1K.

I can double check the slack but I belive last time I checked it was all in spec across multiple spots. Just not sure what else it could be. I use Dupont degreaser and chain lube and am pretty good at cleaning every 500 miles.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I will double check tomorrow but I do notice it was a bit higher than 1300 when I first start it up. However when I am stopped at a light (usually in 1st gear with clutch in) its just a tad over 1K. Hot, it should be set about 1250, turn it up. On cold start, it's normal to be 2-300 RPM's higher. If it's steady once hot, (not going up and down 200 RPM's or so, at idle, by itself, it's fine)

I can double check the slack but I belive last time I checked it was all in spec across multiple spots. Just not sure what else it could be. I use Dupont degreaser and chain lube and am pretty good at cleaning every 500 miles.

What type/brand of chain lube, regular petroleum based, chain wax, etc are you using?

Is the cleaner chain specific? Are you using water PRESSURE to remove the dirt? If so, DON'T... A running garden hose is plenty. You don't want to blow all the oil from inside the chain out..

I've found lubing the chain more often than every five hundred miles helps with noise /longevity...

Lastly, the RPM's shouldn't change in neutral or in gear with the clutch in. IF it IS, you have an issue with the clutch dragging, not adjusted correctly, etc..

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