NGK iridium spark plugs

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I just ordered a set for my 07.

I believe their suppossed to be pre-gapped at .031" from the factory.

After doing a search here on the forum, it looks like .031" is the gap everyones using, correct?

(I prefer to check the gap should someone have dropped the box, etc just to make sure).

Thanks ahead of time..

 

[Goop]

No need to gap them...as a matter of fact you should not gap the Iridiums, period. You risk damaging the electrode .

I put them in my wife's Mazda 6 as well as my FZ6. Great plugs.

 

[Norbert]

ditto.
ran 12k miles on iridiums.
just plug and play.

 

[PhotoAl]

have about 9,000 on mine and the bike runs at least as good as it did with a new set of the "other" plugs. Coming up very soon is the valve check ans will replace at that time.

 

[MisterX]

No need to gap them...as a matter of fact you should not gap the Iridiums, period. You risk damaging the electrode .

I put them in my wife's Mazda 6 as well as my FZ6. Great plugs.

:Im With Stupid:

 

[Red Wazp]

Agree- no gapping needed.

FYI: I pulled the IR's out of my 04 Feejeer at 23k (on plugs not bike) miles and they just barely showed any wear. Replaced with a set that only had 16k on them. I may leave these in the until I see mileage or performance drop off.

 

[GkS]

What are you talking about?
The manual clearly says: Spark plug gap 0.6–0.7 mm (0.024–0.028 in)
Just find a feeler to do the job:

I have it on 0.65mm, it's my second set of plugs (40000km) and they're working absolutely fine!
Ahh, to not foget, when I pulled out the first ones (after 25000km) they were clear like new!!! I got surprised!

 

[ChevyFazer]

What are you talking about?
The manual clearly says: Spark plug gap 0.6–0.7 mm (0.024–0.028 in)
Just find a feeler to do the job:

I have it on 0.65mm, it's my second set of plugs (40000km) and they're working absolutely fine!
Ahh, to not foget, when I pulled out the first ones (after 25000km) they were clear like new!!! I got surprised!

Regular plugs need to be gapped not iridiums

 

[GkS]

Regular plugs need to be gapped not iridiums

I am sorry, maybe you are right, maybe you're all right about this, but just like this (without proof and solid arguments) I cannot believe that.

By the way, who says so?
I prefer trusting my bike's maker, when he says plugs need to have a certain gap and also, I have seen others using iridium plugs "plug'n'play" in other motorcycles and had problems with throttle, idle and consumption afterwards, until they fixed the gap. I have seen it happening on an F800s on a Cagiva Navigator 1000 and on a Yamaha XTZ660...

 

[ChevyFazer]

The plug manufacture says so, they come from the factory preset and if you try to gap a pre gap plug then you just defeated the purpose of buying it to begin with, if your dead set on gaping your plugs then buy cheep ones that need to be gaped

 

[GkS]

The plug manufacture says so, they come from the factory preset and if you try to gap a pre gap plug then you just defeated the purpose of buying it to begin with, if your dead set on gaping your plugs then buy cheep ones that need to be gaped

I am sorry again Chevy (nothing personal man) but, I have bought 3 times for my bike and I have never, ever seen anywhere written by the plug manufacturer (NGK) what you say. Not even on their site (please point me to it if I am wrong or post it here).
Also, normal plugs for this bike are 2-pin headed (that's how my bike came from factory JPY) and those cost more than the iridium ones.

Please don't get upset and don't answer unless you really know something about it. I'm not searching for an argument, just to know the truth behind this.

 

[ChevyFazer]

I'm not upset or trying to argue about it but if you don't believe me then read everyone else's post about it or just do a google search about it

 

[REO Scorpio]

http://www.ngk.com/glossary.asp?kw=Should+I+gap+my+Iridium+Plugs?&manID=1&pt=

Gives a pretty decent explanation as to why there may be differing opinions on this.

Basically, gap at your own risk...

Scorp

Edit: just realized that isn't the company's site but a distribution center.

Here is NGKs FAQ:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqpregap.asp?mode=nml

Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ok, just got off the phone with an NGK tech (at NGK headquarters) re iridiums.

He stated that they are preset, however to RECHECK THE GAP should the plug have been dropped (at the parts store, etc).

They do come with the protective cover over the threads/tip so its unlikely, unless dropped hard, the gap would change.

Being they should be set at .031", for safety sake, I will be slipping a flat, much smaller feeler gauge into the gaps just to verify their at approx .031" without rubbing the finish off the tip.

He did also emphisize(SP?), "DO NOT USE A ROUND QUARTER STYLE FEELER GAUGE"

 

[ChevyFazer]

Well that should be the final nail in the coffin on that question then

 

[GkS]

Ok, that is acceptable, thank you

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Got the plugs in the mail yesterday ( [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CSGWZM/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details"]Amazon.com: NGK (3521) CR9EIX IX Iridium Spark Plug, Pack of 1: Automotive[/ame] ) $7.40 a piece, free shipping for four.

Checked the gaps, 3 were .031", #4 was .030".

Just finished swapping them out (10,000 miles on the bike).

Some comments,

I found the problems most guys having removing the plug caps is rectified by gently prying up on the rubber cap that seals the plastic spark plug lead to the valve cover. I used a thin long screwdriver, wrapped in duct tape to prevent any scratching. Once the seal was broke, the caps came off much easier.. An air compressor was used to blow out any crap in each cavern..

When later re-assembling, I put just a little bit of di-lectric grease on the inside of the valve cover so the rubber doesn't stick, is more water proof and assembles much easier.

I used the tool kit socket but also used a combo box end 14mm wrench that rachets (Craftsman). Much easier, especially when reaching in to #2and #3 plugs. One click at a time due to the tightness..

For the new plug installation, I used a short piece of hose (about 5") that fit snuggly on the new plugs and feed that down into the hole and threaded it by hand.

Yamaha's manual calls for 13' lbs of torque, the spark plug box 1/2 turn past snug, NGK's website for a 10 mm thread 7.2' to 8.7 ' lbs of torque.

I was able to use the toolkit socket, with a short 6 point 14mm socket and an inch pound torqe wrench. I was able to reach all the plugs (with the radiator dropped per the manual) and torque to 7.2' (felt very tight).

Performance:

I had the original plugs in the bike and regularly use Seafoam and K100
( K100 Fuel Treatment : Fuel Additive, Fuel Saver ). The original plugs looked very good and the bike runs great.

With that said, I really cannot feel any difference between the Iridiums and the stock plugs short of a slightly smoother idle.. I suspect because the originals were in such good shape. A test ride felt the same, acceleration about the same and no noticable difference... I'll keep an eye on gas mileage..

In either case, a racheting 14mm box wrench is a big help with a short piece of hose (I was afraid of dropping the new plug out of the stock plug socket. The hose is much easier to manipulate with the plug into the hole).

Maybe took an hour, tops... Hope this helps...

 

[CanadianFZ6]

I am sorry, maybe you are right, maybe you're all right about this, but just like this (without proof and solid arguments) I cannot believe that.

By the way, who says so?
I prefer trusting my bike's maker, when he says plugs need to have a certain gap and also, I have seen others using iridium plugs "plug'n'play" in other motorcycles and had problems with throttle, idle and consumption afterwards, until they fixed the gap. I have seen it happening on an F800s on a Cagiva Navigator 1000 and on a Yamaha XTZ660...

Gapping iridiums is not required... But if you insist.. heed the warnings... Iridiums are fragile... gap them carefully if you must...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Gapping iridiums is not required... But if you insist.. heed the warnings... Iridiums are fragile... gap them carefully if you must...

Please read post 14:

Ok, just got off the phone with an NGK tech (at NGK headquarters) re iridiums.

He stated that they are preset, however to RECHECK THE GAP should the plug have been dropped (at the parts store, etc).

They do come with the protective cover over the threads/tip so its unlikely, unless dropped hard, the gap would change.

Being they should be set at .031", for safety sake, I will be slipping a flat, much smaller feeler gauge into the gaps just to verify their at approx .031" without rubbing the finish off the tip.

He did also emphisize(SP?), "DO NOT USE A ROUND QUARTER STYLE FEELER GAUGE"



BTW, their web site shows how to open the gap if needed by bend at the base of the ground, to tighten the gap, tap lightly on a hard surface... And yes, the tip is very fragile, you don't gap them like a standard plug.

Also, the 4 plugs I just installed, 3 were at .031", one was at .030"

Here's a video from NGK Re gapping: [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lk70oyUEftY&feature=player_embedded"]Spark Plug Gap - NGK Spark Plugs - Tech Video - YouTube[/ame]

Please feel free to call NGK's technical support to verify this:

Technical Support
hours: 8:30am - 5:00pm Monday-Friday EST
tel: 1-877-473-6767 prompt #2

 

[SovietRobot]

Your experience may vary, but I gapped mine with a quarter-style gapper when I first installed them. No problems whatsoever for the past few years.

I do have a new set on the way though I'll try to not regap the new ones and see what happens.