No codes No start

[DeucePutts]

Good evening Fz6ers,

I've gone through some of the threads about this no start issue. I'm looking for a checklist to start trouble shooting tomorrow.
There are no codes of any sort popping up and all the "normal" lights come on during the turning the key to on, and the fuel pump can be heard. Plenty of crank but no pop off. The only light that's on during crank is the green neutral light.
I'm here in MN and the bike went into deep sleep in my garage in Late October with a trickle charger. It was 52 today and I thought what the heck, let's light this candle today. But, I'm glad it was today and not March or April when I'm wanting to start my daily commuting.

Thanks for any direction!

deuce

 

[Gary in NJ]

I’d check for spark at the plugs first. Another way to check for spark is to spray some startling fluid into the airbox while cracking over the engine. If it fires you have spark and compression.

If the bike has been sitting for a few months be sure to exercise the start/stop switch on the throttle grip a few times. Also, i know you said that the battery has been on a trickle charger, but get a multimeter on it to confirm that you have greater than 12.7VDC static (off the charger for a few hours) and at least 11.5 VDC while cranking. Batteries go bad even when on a trickle charger.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Also, i know you said that the battery has been on a trickle charger, but get a multimeter on it to confirm that you have greater than 12.7VDC static (off the charger for a few hours) and at least 11.5 VDC while cranking. Batteries go bad even when on a trickle charger.

This, ^^^, plus a load test on the battery...

.

 

[DeucePutts]

Well, I had enough time with a friend to find out that there seems to be no spark. We used the starting fluid method 2x but no significant pop. So, At this point I'm in uncharted territory with my experience with the Fz6. There were two 30 amp fuses on top that check out ok. Are there any other fuses?

Were do I go from here?

 

[Gary in NJ]

So if there was a failure of one of the ignition components you’d throw a code. So let’s stick with simple things. I’d want to check the condition of the ignition system at the most important place, the spark plugs. Now i know that getting to the plugs can be a pain in the ass, but there is an alternative method to check spark. Grab any 4 spark plugs that are known to be good (of course new plugs fit that description) and insert those into the spark plug caps, grounding them on the engine. Crank over the engine and look for spark. If they spark, you probably have fuel fouled plugs installed. Swap out the plugs and you should be good to go.

If you dont have spark, then you need to clean each connection with contact cleaner from the ecu and at the various sensors.

Im not home right now so I can’t check, but I think if the problem were a lock out (kick stand, clutch or STOP switch) that the bike wouldn’t crank over. Someone correct me if I’m wrong.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As long as the bikes in neutral, it'll crank over and have spark (normally of course).

If the kill switch was bad, it wouldn't crank/spin over at all (when acting up).

Clutch switch, if bad, again won't allow the engine to spin over IF IN GEAR (clutch pulled in)...

It doesn't sound to me like a switch.

Do you have any issues with rodents getting into machinery and chewing up
harness' (cars, cold garages, etc), up there?

If not, check as Gary posted, also check grounds (and specifically) at the coils, ignition
components.

Gary/Cliff can chime in about testing for voltage at the coil connectors and go from there.

 

[DeucePutts]

I confirmed today that there is no spark out to the brand new plug on cylinder 1 (right side sitting on the bike I believe). So, going to carry on and replace the rest and then at Gary's recommendation, clean the connection from the ecu. etc. BTW, the fuse for spark was in tact. This will be a slow go for me as I do not have a service manual and I'm a novice. Taking my time is the way!

 

[Gary in NJ]

I recently posted this in another thread, but will post it here again. After you spray the contacts, use a brass brush on the male and female connector pins to remove any surface corrosion (at a minimum use a new tooth brush). Then do a final flush with another shot of cleaner. If you feel you didn’t clean the pins well, then do some repeated connections/disconnections with wet pins, followed by a flush. Finally, put a little dielectric grease on the outer surface of the inside connector before the final connection. This will keep and moisture from re-entering the mated connectors.

 

[Motogiro]

I confirmed today that there is no spark out to the brand new plug on cylinder 1 (right side sitting on the bike I believe). So, going to carry on and replace the rest and then at Gary's recommendation, clean the connection from the ecu. etc. BTW, the fuse for spark was in tact. This will be a slow go for me as I do not have a service manual and I'm a novice. Taking my time is the way!

I would confirm that you have 12 vdc on the primary positive side of your coils. When the key is in the on position voltage is applied to the coils. The negative side of the primary winding on the coils are operated by the ECM. Make sure you have your primary 12 vdc.

 

[DeucePutts]

Ok, update. Its been slow going. But, new plugs are in and I wanted to re-check spark and I HAVE spark. So, I'm not sure if I missed it previously; regardless, I have spark. I'm still in the process of cleaning the connections. For context, Its been several days since I first checked for spark. today I unhooked the ECM first to inspect, then that's when I decided to put the new spark plugs in and then check for spark the 2nd time with positive results. Anyway, does this change what I should be troubleshooting? Again I'm going to carry on with cleaning the connections and maybe put it together and see what happens.

 

[DeucePutts]

Ok, update. Its been slow going. But, new plugs are in and I wanted to re-check spark and I HAVE spark. So, I'm not sure if I missed it previously; regardless, I have spark. I'm still in the process of cleaning the connections. For context, Its been several days since I first checked for spark. today I unhooked the ECM first to inspect, then that's when I decided to put the new spark plugs in and then check for spark the 2nd time with positive results. Anyway, does this change what I should be troubleshooting? Again I'm going to carry on with cleaning the connections and maybe put it together and see what happens.

Also, Its been unseasonably warm winter here in MN with higher humidity. So, I suspect this may have played into the possible no start.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I wouldn't think temp would play into it, un-less something has a bad connection.

If you have spark now, I'd try starting it.... You can always go back and finish cleaning.
Better yet, get it running (if it does start), then, while it's running, do a wire / connector "wiggle test".

If that causes the engine to quit, you've just narrowed down the issue to that area..

.

 

[DeucePutts]

Still no start. I'm starting to think fuel injection issues. I think that its not getting fuel.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Spray some starting fluid into the airbox while cranking. If it fires it is a fueling issue. Most likely the fuel pump or a clogged screen.

 

[DeucePutts]

Ok, I decided to go into diagnostic mode just to see. I can get to the d1 screen. But, when I hold the right button it does not progress to the next screen. Would this indicate something significant? Could this be related to my no start issue?

 

[DeucePutts]

Ok, here is a new one. I enter diagnostic mode. I want to check 36-39(injectors). I started with 36 and 37, and things check out. But, I try to toggle to 38 and it skips all the way to 41. I try again to toggle back and forth to 38 and 39, same thing happens. I also tried code 30 and 33(coils) but could not toggle from 30 to 33 without it skipping head. What does this mean?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Spray some starting fluid into the airbox while cranking. If it fires it is a fueling issue. Most likely the fuel pump or a clogged screen.

What happened when you did this "test"?

Skipping around or not performing tests as requested is not helping...


The 36-39 "test", what exactly is that?
Are you referring to turning the throttle while watching the TPS #'s
(usually from approx 15-100 shown with NO SKIPPING)

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.

 

[DeucePutts]

What happened when you did this "test"?

Skipping around or not performing tests as requested is not helping...


The 36-39 "test", what exactly is that?
Are you referring to turning the throttle while watching the TPS #'s
(usually from approx 15-100 shown with NO SKIPPING)

.


.

Here is a vid explaining.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I've never seen or heard of that test..

Maybe specific to the FZ1?

PM sent as well..