Re-gearing for commuting

[FinalImpact]

IMO the bike is designed with the proper gear set as is for MPG. If you decrease the RPM of the engine, you move it out of the sweet spot for torque and can actually loose MPG as it has to add more fuel to handle the increased load. You may have better luck going naked than changing gears.

This whole thread is much more applicable to larger engines that make more torque. This is not a torque engine but I'd love to see someone try the 17 / 44 combo.

 

[mave2911]

Neil,

Are you computing MPG from Imperial gallons? US Gallons contain less fuel, hence lower MPG in comparison. An Imperial gallon is 1.2 US Gallons. I'd expect your MPG to be 20% higher as a result.

That's why I love the metric system. A litre is a litre is a litre (unless you're a Yank, then it's a liter, but it's STILL 1000ml)

A kilometre is a kilometre is a kilometre (unless, again you're a Yank and can't spell, then it's a kilometer!)

Thus, no matter WHERE you are in the world, kilometres per litre are the same.

Cheers,
Rick

P.S. If you click on my Fuelly sig, you can select the units of measure you wish to use, so can see that, with the exception of a couple of windy days, my economy over 52 fills is fairly consistent, thusly, when I go to the 17T front sprocket, it should show an obvious change.

 

[Gelvatron]

I get 44 mpg with stock and I boogy on the highway I go about 80 in the carpool but don't pass on the double yellow and cruise when behind cars so if your trying to get better than that I'd say ride slow and stay behind SUVs

 

[Nelly]

RJ2112, that's about right, I would like to see a 200 mile range before the reserve light. I'm hopping that the drop of one tooth in the rear is not too dramatic. If It's okay with the ride I will go up to a 17t front sprocket.
Neil

Sent from my HTC Desire S using Tapatalk 2

 

[mave2911]

RJ2112, that's about right, I would like to see a 200 mile range before the reserve light.

I consistently get 185mi (295kms+) before reserve. Hopefully the 17T can improve that!

Cheers,
Rick

 

[Marthy]

I tried few ratio on my 6R and +1 front is the most popular. I tried more and it's not any better on MPG or not enough to make it worth (lost of acceleration) I kind of share FinalImpact idea...

IMO you get to a point that you work against drag. You need X amount of HP or Torque to go 80 MPH. So if you want to get better MPG, slow down.

On my ride if I milk it (+1 front) I get 48-50 MPG on my Touring map. If I use my Advgear map (Sport map 1-3rd, Touring map 4-6th) all depend how I ride it's anywhere between 38-45 MPG.

 

[RJ2112]

I get 44 mpg with stock and I boogy on the highway I go about 80 in the carpool but don't pass on the double yellow and cruise when behind cars so if your trying to get better than that I'd say ride slow and stay behind SUVs

After I started riding the ZX6R I have now, I had a discussion with officer friendly concerning the sheer noise coming from my bike when I whacked the throttle open. (WFO over about 10K is painful for people in cars adjacent.)

As a result of that conversation, I slowed down and kept the RPM below the power band to limit noise. Keeping the bike to 55 MPH indicated resulted in me getting > 50 MPG (US Gallons :thumbup: )

When I run my commute at the usual 63-70 MPH, that drops to about 46 MPG. With a 3.4 gallon fuel tank, that means I can barely make two commuting laps. Good enough to justify using the bike to go to work -- I'd prefer to do all of this on low grade gas rather than the required high octane.......

The FZ6 is most definitely a better commuter bike than the ZX6 is. Range and ergos are the main reason for that, IMHO.

 

[RJ2112]

That's why I love the metric system. A litre is a litre is a litre (unless you're a Yank, then it's a liter, but it's STILL 1000ml)

A kilometre is a kilometre is a kilometre (unless, again you're a Yank and can't spell, then it's a kilometer!)

Thus, no matter WHERE you are in the world, kilometres per litre are the same.

Cheers,
Rick

P.S. If you click on my Fuelly sig, you can select the units of measure you wish to use, so can see that, with the exception of a couple of windy days, my economy over 52 fills is fairly consistent, thusly, when I go to the 17T front sprocket, it should show an obvious change.

Rick,

I don't log each tank, simply do the math at the pump when I fill the tank and reset the trip meter. I'd be interested in knowing what happens to your fuel consumption/unit of distance during the hot season. With the decreased air density, I would expect the FI to reduce the amount of fuel in the mix.... hence lower consumption.

Here in the US, a few years back it was common for the fuel blend produced to change in the colder months to one with some 'oxygenation'. I have decided that is a euphemism for adding alcohol to the mix.

Now that the Federal government has mandated all fuel has alcohol, my MPG dropped off all year round, rather than just when it was supposed to get better. :spank:

Does Australia play those same games? Do you get 'real' gas all year round?

 

[mave2911]

Rick,

I don't log each tank, simply do the math at the pump when I fill the tank and reset the trip meter. I'd be interested in knowing what happens to your fuel consumption/unit of distance during the hot season. With the decreased air density, I would expect the FI to reduce the amount of fuel in the mix.... hence lower consumption.

Here in the US, a few years back it was common for the fuel blend produced to change in the colder months to one with some 'oxygenation'. I have decided that is a euphemism for adding alcohol to the mix.

Now that the Federal government has mandated all fuel has alcohol, my MPG dropped off all year round, rather than just when it was supposed to get better. :spank:

Does Australia play those same games? Do you get 'real' gas all year round?

None of my previous bikes, except the last three, have had fuel gauges, so I've always used my trip meter and a knowledge of how much fuel I put in vs bike economy.

Thankfully, in Oz, we get a choice whether we want ethanol in our fuel (E10) or full strength (91, 95 or 98RON)

I always use 98RON at a current prices of $1.52/L + ($5.76/gal)

I expected an increase to my fuel economy in the colder months, with the colder/more dense intake air, however this is apparently offset by the increased wind resistance of this colder/more dense air. (my economy has dropped a bit)

It'll be interesting if it improves with the upcoming summer months.

Cheers,
Rick

 

[Nelly]

I'm not sure the cold air theory holds up 100%. I ride in what you guys would call a colder climate and our fuel consumption seems to be pretty much the same?
The air temp has dropped to approx 15 - 17C day time and 11 - 14C evening. I think that the riding conditions will pay a greater part in my fuel consumption rather than ambient temperatures. Just a thought.
Neil

Sent from my HTC Desire S using Tapatalk 2

 

[Cali rider]

http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...p-need-new-chain-sprocket-set.html#post498011

 

[RJ2112]

I'm not sure the cold air theory holds up 100%. I ride in what you guys would call a colder climate and our fuel consumption seems to be pretty much the same?
The air temp has dropped to approx 15 - 17C day time and 11 - 14C evening. I think that the riding conditions will pay a greater part in my fuel consumption rather than ambient temperatures. Just a thought.
Neil

Sent from my HTC Desire S using Tapatalk 2

A more dense charge in the cylinder means more power on each power stroke because the increased air will allow more fuel.... it all depends on whether you reduce your wrist action or leave it WFO. If you seek a level of power, rather than the maximum, you'll twist the grip less, with dense cold air compared to a hot climate. It is a pretty subtle change at sea level.

Knowing Ireland doesn't really have all that many places you can gain enough altitude to deal with a thinner charge, you won't experience the 10-15% drop in power you would in the Rocky Mountains.

 

[mave2911]

As I said, with a bike, it appears any increase in power due to the greater oxygen content of the intake air is offset by the increases in wind-resistence.

That's why a cold-air intake on a car works so well, as all it's doing is cooling the intake air, so the wind-resistance is a constant.

If we could port the side of the airbox to open it to the airstream, and eliminate the water/dirt/bugs potentially carried in said airstream, we too could see benefits.

Cheers,
Rick

 

[Nelly]

Getting cold now (not windy mind) 6C in the day - 2C at night. I'm really happy with the change of the rear sprocket to 45t. The bike pulls well, and I'm not trying to find 7th gear anymore. Cruising at 60 mph the rpm has dropped by about 1000 rpm. The engine didn't feel like it was bogging down and rolls on to 90mph with out any drama.
Will keep a check on the consumption.
Neil

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