Speaking of chain tension…...

[AKjitsu]

I took off my centerstand for a variety of reasons and mounted paddock stand spools. This of course adds a complication to adjusting the chain as it will be tighter with the rear wheel jacked up on the paddock stands (via the swing arm) rather than the centerstand and so the “normal” weight will still be on the rear wheel. Anybody got a rough measurement for the difference in chain slack between having the bike on the centerstand and having it upright with both wheels on the ground?

Thanks in advance.

AK

 

[RJ2112]

I took off my centerstand for a variety of reasons and mounted paddock stand spools. This of course adds a complication to adjusting the chain as it will be tighter with the rear wheel jacked up on the paddock stands (via the swing arm) rather than the centerstand and so the “normal” weight will still be on the rear wheel. Anybody got a rough measurement for the difference in chain slack between having the bike on the centerstand and having it upright with both wheels on the ground?

Thanks in advance.

AK

I'd almost certainly use the OEM slack measurements regardless of use of center stand, or side stand, or spools.

The minimum slack allowed is to ensure there is enough slack with the swing arm fully compressed. Stay more loose than the minimum slack, and you won't stretch the chain from having it too tight.

The chain is not a belt... it doesn't have to be bow string tight to transfer power to the wheel. It just has to be tight enough to make sure the rollers don't hop off the top of the sprocket teeth. Far better to be on the loose end of the measurement.....

 

[AKjitsu]

I'd almost certainly use the OEM slack measurements regardless of use of center stand, or side stand, or spools.

The minimum slack allowed is to ensure there is enough slack with the swing arm fully compressed. Stay more loose than the minimum slack, and you won't stretch the chain from having it too tight.

The chain is not a belt... it doesn't have to be bow string tight to transfer power to the wheel. It just has to be tight enough to make sure the rollers don't hop off the top of the sprocket teeth. Far better to be on the loose end of the measurement.....

I appreciate the response but apparently I didn’t make myself clear. The owners manual gives chain slack tolerances measured when the bike is on the centerstand; which means the rear wheel has no weight on it and chain slack is at it’s maximum. Any time you put weight on the rear wheel (eg. Have the bike standing upright on the pavement or on paddock stands) the chain will tighten up considerably and throw off you measurements. Since I don’t have a centerstand I’m looking for an approximation of chain slack differences between zero-weight (on the centerstand) and “normal, unladen” weight (upright with both wheels on the pavement) on the rear wheel so that I CAN adjust to book specs.

For instance: Suppose you measure your chain slack on the centerstand and agian upright with both wheels on the pavement. Furthermore, let us suppose you come up with 2.0” on the centerstand and 1.25” on the pavement. That tells me I would need to subtract 0.75” when my bike is on the paddock stands to get within the book specs of 1.75” – 2.2”. I would set my chain between 1.0” and 1.45”.

 

[RJ2112]

It's possible I didn't express myself clearly enough, as well. The engineers who wrote the Owner's manual, and the shop manual have to be able to account for people checking their chain slack either way. Center stand, or side stand.

If your slack is between the OEM 1.75 and 2.2..... you're in good shape. I'd keep the slack nearer to the 2.2" end of the range regardless. Better to be too loose, than too tight.

Most people check the slack on the bottom run of chain. That's neither right or wrong; it's just a point of reference.

The 'driven' portion of the chain is in fact the top 'run' of chain... that's what I reference as having a minimum distance, when the swing arm is compressed to the maximum. When the top of the rear sprocket is higher than the top of the front sprocket, the distance between them lengthens.

I'll commend you for your attention to detail.

 

[AKjitsu]

It's possible I didn't express myself clearly enough, as well. The engineers who wrote the Owner's manual, and the shop manual have to be able to account for people checking their chain slack either way. Center stand, or side stand.

If your slack is between the OEM 1.75 and 2.2..... you're in good shape. I'd keep the slack nearer to the 2.2" end of the range regardless. Better to be too loose, than too tight.

Most people check the slack on the bottom run of chain. That's neither right or wrong; it's just a point of reference.

The 'driven' portion of the chain is in fact the top 'run' of chain... that's what I reference as having a minimum distance, when the swing arm is compressed to the maximum. When the top of the rear sprocket is higher than the top of the front sprocket, the distance between them lengthens.

I'll commend you for your attention to detail.

Aha! Humungous gracias!

AK