Thbrtmn
Junior Member
I'll try to make this brief and as much to the point as possible.
First: Decide if the throttlemeister is the Right Cruise Control/Throttle Locking mechanism for you. There are many options but I thought this was the nicest looking one.
Here is what I got:
ThrottleMeister - Heavy- Matte Black. Shipped-$155.90 usd.
I Got it from rlmotorcycles.com...just google "Throttlemeister" and they show up. Best and quickest shipping I have ever experienced. Ordered it mid day wednesday, got to me by USPS mail Friday morning.
Ok, here is what you get.
2 weighted ends one with the brass inner sleeve for the throttle friction.
2 inner adapters
1 Friction sleeve
2 Thick spacers
2 hex bolts to attach the weighted end to the inner adapter
A hand full of washers/shims in different sizes
and....Instructions
Looks like this:
Next...You want to figure out what size hex key your stock weight end takes and remove it. My bike is a 2006 and it took a 4.5mm to remove it. (EDIT) From a previous thread that I started on "Bar end removal...it was clarified that there are two hex sized in the bar end. A 4.5mm INNER and an 8mm outer. The 8MM will give you more depth and leverage to removed the end...Thanks to SirIsaac for setting us straight. See Picture:
If you dont want your old ones, you can also "positively motivate it" with plyers. I had to do this since I didnt have a 4.5mm or an 8mm handy.
Here are some pics and the removal of the old:
Once you have the stock end off your ready to begin.
First You get the Friction sleeve (that Black rubber looking thing) and put around the outside of the throttle tube which would put it under the rubber part of the handle grip. Instructions say to rool back an inch of the grip to get it around the tube but our grips wont "roll back" so just wiggle it around the tube and push it on flush with the end of the grip:
Now get the two "inner adapters" with the washers, spacers, and the Hex bolt screwed into it. The inner adapter looks the same for both sides but I used the one that had multiple size shims/washers on it.
Once your ready, unscrew the Hex bolt from the end and then hold onto your washers/shims.
Now your going to take some Blue/medium locktite and put on the threads. Once you have done this, screw the adpater into the bar end. The flat sides in the picture on the adapter allow you to use a wrench to tighten it down...I believe the instructions tell you 10 foot pounds.
Now your ready to install the end. Here is where the different size washers/shims come into play. The instructions tell you washers first, then spacers into the end, so that the spacer is closest to the handlebar. They also tell you to try different combinations to adjust the friction of the end when you turn it from on to off. Off should give you the normal "spring" of the throttle and On should give you a locking position...but not locked enough to where you couldnt roll the throttle forward under the friction in case of an emergency. I tried multiple combinations and for now found that 1 thick washer plus the thinest washer gives me a happy medium of open, close, and in between. I may change this and remove the thin one...not sure... still need to get a feel for it.
See the picture above with the shims again on the inner adapter.
I put mine in the end first and then put the Hex bolt throught the bottom, got the hex bolt about hand tight screwing the end on and then test the turning and locking of the the throttle.
-------Continued-----
First: Decide if the throttlemeister is the Right Cruise Control/Throttle Locking mechanism for you. There are many options but I thought this was the nicest looking one.
Here is what I got:
ThrottleMeister - Heavy- Matte Black. Shipped-$155.90 usd.
I Got it from rlmotorcycles.com...just google "Throttlemeister" and they show up. Best and quickest shipping I have ever experienced. Ordered it mid day wednesday, got to me by USPS mail Friday morning.
Ok, here is what you get.
2 weighted ends one with the brass inner sleeve for the throttle friction.
2 inner adapters
1 Friction sleeve
2 Thick spacers
2 hex bolts to attach the weighted end to the inner adapter
A hand full of washers/shims in different sizes
and....Instructions
Looks like this:
Next...You want to figure out what size hex key your stock weight end takes and remove it. My bike is a 2006 and it took a 4.5mm to remove it. (EDIT) From a previous thread that I started on "Bar end removal...it was clarified that there are two hex sized in the bar end. A 4.5mm INNER and an 8mm outer. The 8MM will give you more depth and leverage to removed the end...Thanks to SirIsaac for setting us straight. See Picture:
If you dont want your old ones, you can also "positively motivate it" with plyers. I had to do this since I didnt have a 4.5mm or an 8mm handy.
Here are some pics and the removal of the old:
Once you have the stock end off your ready to begin.
First You get the Friction sleeve (that Black rubber looking thing) and put around the outside of the throttle tube which would put it under the rubber part of the handle grip. Instructions say to rool back an inch of the grip to get it around the tube but our grips wont "roll back" so just wiggle it around the tube and push it on flush with the end of the grip:
Now get the two "inner adapters" with the washers, spacers, and the Hex bolt screwed into it. The inner adapter looks the same for both sides but I used the one that had multiple size shims/washers on it.
Once your ready, unscrew the Hex bolt from the end and then hold onto your washers/shims.
Now your going to take some Blue/medium locktite and put on the threads. Once you have done this, screw the adpater into the bar end. The flat sides in the picture on the adapter allow you to use a wrench to tighten it down...I believe the instructions tell you 10 foot pounds.
Now your ready to install the end. Here is where the different size washers/shims come into play. The instructions tell you washers first, then spacers into the end, so that the spacer is closest to the handlebar. They also tell you to try different combinations to adjust the friction of the end when you turn it from on to off. Off should give you the normal "spring" of the throttle and On should give you a locking position...but not locked enough to where you couldnt roll the throttle forward under the friction in case of an emergency. I tried multiple combinations and for now found that 1 thick washer plus the thinest washer gives me a happy medium of open, close, and in between. I may change this and remove the thin one...not sure... still need to get a feel for it.
See the picture above with the shims again on the inner adapter.
I put mine in the end first and then put the Hex bolt throught the bottom, got the hex bolt about hand tight screwing the end on and then test the turning and locking of the the throttle.
-------Continued-----
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