08 FZ6 Condensed Build thread ~Final Impact~

[FinalImpact]

Over the weekend I tested two circuits but lack the proper timing components to get the required delay so I need to order some goodies.

At a glance the flasher I have flashes roughly 90x/min w/a 40 - 45% duty cycle. With a flash every 0.66 seconds we simply need an output (designated DRL off) greater than 0.75 - 1.0 second and reset (DRL on). Parts are cheap it will become a packaging issue...


I'll post up when its sorted and I have a proper parts list.

 

[Marcin]

So I see you're going in my direction

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

 

[FinalImpact]

Yes! lol...
Initially I just hadn't thought it worth the effort. Now its its just another thing to tinker with. That and I hated the old clear heat shrink tube so I get to cut that off and replace it it w/black. Like anyone's gonna look up her blouse but me!

 

[FinalImpact]

If you use this information:
** Take Note that I am not responsible for your actions, skills, this design, fire, theft or your implementation of said schematic or any erros in it. **

Here it is, 6 components per side for DIY Switchback relay for Turn indicators and DRL. Turns off DRL while turn indicators are flashing. My Solid State flasher relay is 90x/min. repeating 1.5 times per second. Visually it is off more than on so the duty cycle is roughly 40% and it repeats every 0.66 sec or so.

If this circuit see's a pulse from the turn indicator it disables our DRL for 1 second which is long enough to wait for another pulse if the turn indicators are still active. If no 12v pulse is detected, it will enable DRL. This little circuit does that and I tried it on actual Yamaha parts that draw less than 1 watt each... unfortunately the relay used was a 5v 70ohm unit so I had to improvise, but the concept works. Like I said before. Now it becomes a packaging issue but I have a plan for that. PS - anyone building this; do not encase finished product in silicone. It will destroy your electronics.

The bottom line is the RC combo worked giving an off time of just under a second.
1uF cap / 10k ohm resistor ~ 0.75 to 1 second timer.
10uF cap / 10k ohm = ~ 1.1 sec delay

The only thing I don't care for is the time it takes to discharge C1 and turn off Q1. It may not be ideal for the relay, but the LEDs draw so little current it is not factor and I wanted it simple. It is simple.

Here are the basics and the cost should be under $12 a pair to make them.

When I build it with components I plan to use, I'll post the actual PN's used, cost and source.
[MENTION=23872]Marcin[/MENTION] [MENTION=19634]Ohendo[/MENTION]

 

[Ohendo]

Nice job! Nothing more satisfying than designing and building your own solution.

There is a pre-engineered "switchback driver" circuit for just this idea, if you're interested. Turns off DRL while turn signal is active, restores DRL 2 seconds after turn signal goes away. IP67 waterproof.
Parts would be about $35 total. Link and video below:

https://www.oznium.com/switchback-driver

[video=youtube_share;jaex3DZhZzQ]https://youtu.be/jaex3DZhZzQ"]https://youtu.be/jaex3DZhZzQ[/video]

 

[FinalImpact]

Thanks!
It was a good distraction but I still need to condense it into a tiny package which is waterproof. Wiring is pretty much the same thing as ots except I only tap into the indicator signal and they did a pass through I'd guess. If my circuit fails, the DRL will stay on and there should be no impact to the sense wire from the turn indicator.

I am surprised the "off the shelf" (OTS) option was only good for 1 amp. Even the little $2 relays I'm using are good for more than 2 Amps. Rating is 2A @ 30vdc or 60 watts...

Thanks for sharing. I'll run mine for now.... :thumbup:

 

[Ohendo]

I imagine with an LED turn signal that 1A would be plenty, but yeah I hear you. Your solution has a better fail mode, less expensive, and has your name on it instead of Oznium's! Win-Win-Win.

 

[Marcin]

I took a ride today with a friend of mine in a car. The idea was simple - how do a driver sees the lights from front and rear blinkers.

In his opinion
Front positions are less visible than rear positions.
It would be a good idea to dim / switch off the front positions during indicating
Rear position lights are too bright - at night he would be furious if he had to drive behind me.

 

[FinalImpact]

Interesting.... in the daylight in the sun we must be seen. And IMO there are way more cages with ridiculously bright lights at both ends with a lot more surface area projecting said lights. Some vehicles are simply evil to follow and/or sit behind at a traffic light and this trend is on the rise.

I guess the group I ride with wont be b$tching about "I didn't see your signal" anymore! Blah
It looks like the needs of the one outweigh the needs of the few who may find them too obnoxious! I'm just saying I'd rather they back off then have to send someone out to scrape me off the highway! You know what I mean??

Does that mean you'll be building or buying a switchback circuit???

 

[Marcin]

I also prefer being seen, even at the cost of being hated
I'll wait for you to finish the protoype and will make the circuit you did to switch position lights off for indicating and that's all.

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[FinalImpact]

At a glance the flasher I have flashes roughly 90x/min w/a 40 - 45% duty cycle. With a flash every 0.66 seconds we simply need an output (designated DRL off) greater than 0.75 - 1.0 second and reset (DRL on). Parts are cheap it will become a packaging issue...

I measured the flasher rate with a new tool! No real reason other than I can, so I did! =/

The O'scope shows a pulse rate (frequency) of 1.479Hz... or 0.67 second which is what I obtained using a stop watch.

Or 1.479 Hz x 60 sec = 88.7 pulses/min vs 90 p/min.

This shows the duty cycle to be 340ms which is pretty close to 50%...
1 cycle = 676ms - pulse width 340ms = 336ms... I'll chalk that up to measurement error...

Basically our circuit design inputs are are unchanged by this info.

 

[FinalImpact]

Parts came in, circuit works with both existing and less expensive components. Small double sided pcba is on backorder. That said, if anyone wants the switchback circuit that retains the pod lights as indicators, let me know, as I have a completely functional circuit to do that too! Total component count is 8 parts.

 

[FinalImpact]

Double sided pcb came in finally... Board is 2x8cm and likely to be cut in half allowing two circuits per board.

Yes it would be nice if traces were laid out and I could could just drop in the components but no dice there. Plenty of services to do this too. Mouser and Digi-key both offer circuit analyzers and from there you can pay to layout design and have it made. This will do for now. Found these on amazoo for cheap. Pcb is FR4 fiberglass plated through hole. Its going to see shock and vibes so use a good proto board.

One side is done....

 

[Marcin]

Nice job there. And here I am with some negative input yesterday my another friend rode behind me. He also says that position lights at nigh / in the evening are too strong, make riding behind me uncomfortable and the light strenght between position and brake is too small I guess some resistors on position light line might help. As far as I know I'll need to measure the current going to the lights now and calculate some resistor to limit the current by, say, 40%.

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[FinalImpact]

Nice job there. And here I am with some negative input yesterday my another friend rode behind me. He also says that position lights at nigh / in the evening are too strong, make riding behind me uncomfortable and the light strenght between position and brake is too small I guess some resistors on position light line might help. As far as I know I'll need to measure the current going to the lights now and calculate some resistor to limit the current by, say, 40%.

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tapatalk

Another thought instated of limiting current is to A) wrap lens in window tint, B) spray on the tint. The stuff all ricer's use to darken/diffuse the output.

I still haven't put mine back together or installed the tail tidy.

 

[Marcin]

I would like to keep the strong brake lights so limiting the postion light current seems as the only option

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[FinalImpact]

At a glance because they use the same physical led elements for run and brake, I'm not sure you can limit the current to control brightness.

Another option may be pulse width modulation (PWM) if this really bugs you that much. Basically flashing the LED to control its brightness....

On some light bars they do this at a high enough pulse rate our eyes do not see the flicker (say its 80% PWM vs DC at 13v or 100%). What this does is allow the LED to cool in that off cycle while being over driven with current above its rated capacity but not self destruct from overheating as it can cool just enough during that small off time. The question here would be if the PWM output % needs to be 100% during brake on....

Let me know what you figure out. I'll help if I can.
FWIW while playing with the front lights I noticed one could lower the perceived output by using PWM...

 

[FinalImpact]

Done!
New lights installed on front w/switchback LED driver.
New Dunlop Q3.
Fresh fork oil. Mixed 5 and 7.5wt and trying a slight overfill from stock 4.2"
Rim tape - need to do the back!
Cleaned bug parts from forward section.
Waxed!
Removed peanut shells from airbox... the price paid for being ridden twice since being parked in November.

Axle depth. Assembled the front wheel and saw there is no way axle is 10mm short of flush (not that we want it flush, that would defeat the purpose).... It measured 6.2 mm deep from forks outer edge... Its fine! Not a concern!
Also installed 0.115" SS spacers which center the calipers perfectly over the rotor.

Camera hates the bright lights... leaving as thumbs...
Clean is good!

If you look at the revised circuit, the layout leads to a point to point connection which made it 100x easier to build.
The first took way too long. This made it pretty easy and somewhat efficient using less space. Although still not small enough to cut pcb in half.

 

[FinalImpact]

Anyone have opinions on rim tape? 8mm seems a bit overkill! Like BAM! In your face!
Thoughts?

Narrow is better or do the back and rock it?!

Next is:
- Bleed brakes
- Coolant change
- Rear everything cleaning
- Rim tape unless 8mm is overkill
- Powder coat TT and install new lights
- Polish header set

Also - fork oil was likely fine for another year. Every two years is excessive when doing less than 4,500 mi/year. The color was pretty good, very minimal silver sparkle.... guessing *99%* of that comes from the springs on the stanchion tubes.....
An experiment is 1" overfill. The thought being less likely to bottom while running lighter comp damping. 5 mi test ride didn't scare me... try it and see.. .. ..

The 9 year old bike w 28k on it cleans up pretty well! Now to do the aft section!

Clean is sexy!!!

 

[FinalImpact]

Switchback DRL w/POD light turn indicators sync'd

Here is the circuit for Switchback DRL function that blinks the POD light(s) in sync with the turn indicators....
It's inexpensive to make and none of the components are used to anywhere near their potential power rating. In addition, the components are rated to over 100°C so if you make it water tight and assemble it properly, it should work and last a long time. Relay is a Normally Closed (NC) DPDT 2 Amp board mount. This one is polarity sensitive so connect it as shown or it will not switch.

Timing using components listed is right at 1 second from the rising pulse of turn indicator going high +12 which disables DRL until DRL switchback. Because not all Solid State blinker relays are the same timing this is pretty safe time delay wise as it will stay off a hair longer than falling edge of turn indicator.

Once the components are laid out as shown this is a quick build as most of the connections can be made in a straight or 90° angle.
The running light supply power DRL LED, POD light LED and the circuit timing. It draws a fraction of the current the original incandescent bulb drew so powering a both the DRL (0.1 A & POD light 0.1 A) are completely safe using the OEM supply.


NOTE: ** Build and implement at your own risk. ** I am not responsible for errors or omissions!
This has not been tested long term, but it is solid and as said, nothing is being taxed power wise. The blinker power is a pass-thru. If the circuit fails the odds of loosing the blinker output are very very small. The DRL goes through a normally closed relay. If the circuit fails, the relay will continue to operate the DRL.
The pod light is limited to a max of 1amp through D3.... When indicator is off, pod light power is through the NC relay. When the indicator is active, the relay is open and pod power is through turn indicator supply and into D3 which goes to pod light output.

Last little bit, if you use this or build it, please give credit as to where it came from. Thanks!

Schematic:

Timing:

PCBA layout:

Back:
Red = DRL in. This charges cap and operates timing circuit.
Black = GND for circuit timing and pass thru for DRL and Turn indicator.
Green = Turn indicator - pass thru.
Yellow = Switchback DRL into and out of DPDT relay.
Orange = POD Light. Out of DPDT relay. Omit D3 and output if not used.

Components used & source: Note builds L & R circuit's...
D1, D2
Quantity: 4 @ $0.06 ea
Mouser #: 512-1N4148,
Mfr. #: 1N4148
Desc.: Diodes - General Purpose, Power, Switching Diodes - General Purpose, Power, Switching 100V Io/200mA BULK

D3
Quantity: 2 @ $0.16 ea
Mouser #: 512-1N4004
Mfr. #: 1N4004
Desc.: Rectifiers Rectifiers Vr/400V Io/1A T/R

R1
Quantity: 2 @ $0.15
Mouser Part #: 660-CF1/4C103J
Manufacturer Part #:CF1/4C103J
Manufacturer: KOA Speer
Description: Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 10Kohms 5%

R2
Quantity: 2 @ $0.15
Mouser Part #: 660-CFS1/4CT52R220J
Manufacturer Part #: CFS1/4CT52R220J
Carbon Film Resistors - Through Hole 22 OHM 5% 1/4W

Q1
Quantity: 2 @ $0.17
Mouser #: 512-2N3904BU
Mfr. #: 2N3904BU
Desc.: Bipolar Transistors - BJT Bipolar Transistors - BJT NPN Transistor General Purpose

RY1
Quantity: 2 @ $3.47
Mouser #: 655-3-1462039-8
Mfr. #: 3-1462039-8
Desc.: Low Signal Relays - PCB Low Signal Relays - PCB IM06DTS=IM RELAY 140MW 12V
These are 2Amp / 30 volt contacts, 1000 ohm coils

C1
Quantity: 2 @ $0.23
Mouser #: 647-USV1E100MFD
Mfr. #: USV1E100MFD
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 25volts 10uF 5x7 20% 2LS

Switchback time:
Min:Sec.100th/sec
00:00.40 sec delay - 4.7uF
00:00.85 sec delay - 10uF **
00:01.20 sec delay - 15uF
00:01.62 sec delay - 25uF
00:03.69 sec delay - 100uF
00:07 sec delay - 220uF

Note: Adding R2 between Q1 Emitter and Ground increases these times by about 20%


PCB
Lead time is long on the 2X8cm, but these were $14 for 30 parts
30 Pcs Double Sided PCB Board Prototype Kit for DIY, 4 Sizes by Paxcoo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N3161JP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


2X8cM and 3X7CM
Kalevel� 5pcs FR-4 Glass Fiber Double Sided Prototype Pcb Universal Printed Circuit Board (3*7cm)
https://www.amazon.com/Kalevel-Prot...words=PRINTED+CIRCUIT+PROTOTYPING+BOARDS&th=1

[video=youtube_share;H8ypOztW3qA]https://youtu.be/H8ypOztW3qA[/video]
Final Impact DIY Switchback DRL Circuit