Changing Starter Moter

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

I've searched for this but can't find anything. Maybe I'm not doing a right search but....is there instructions or video on how to swap out the starter? And at one point I came across a post where the starter would turn on while the bike was already started and being ridden and of course now I can't find it. Any clue?
Thanks!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I've searched for this but can't find anything. Maybe I'm not doing a right search but....is there instructions or video on how to swap out the starter? The starter can be removed W/O pulling the TB's, etc and has been done before and posted here. It is a tight fit but can be done.

And at one point I came across a post where the starter would turn on while the bike was already started and being ridden and of course now I can't find it.

^^^, that thread was someones starter getting stuck TURNED ON (CRANKING WHILE RUNNING). It should NOT do that normally.

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

Wed. coming home from work I heard a loud noise, not a clunk but more of a whirring sound. At first I thought maybe the fan but it was too loud and not hot enough. I was on a 2 lane and hoping to make it to the gas station so I could pull over and take a look but the engine light came out and power went completely out. Got a tow thru AMA and I put it on the charger over night, started right up the next morning. Brought it to my mechanic Sat. and he tested the battery and the charging system which was all fine. It's still wanting to hesitate a bit starting up but it will start. Maybe that noise I heard was the starter and it drained the battery? Died before I could tell where the noise was coming from

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Did your mechanic check for codes popped? I would think the engine light, complete power loss would have triggered a code...

***Do you have a volt meter?

If so, (or have your mechanic do it). Put your meter on both battery terminals and crank the bike over watching the voltage. You should have roughly 13 volts not running. When cranking it should drop a volt or two. If the starter is failing, the voltage drop will be very substantial- IE, the starter is damaged / shorted or the battery is toast. (I know what the mechanic stated, so the next failure point would be the starter).

When cranking, you say it's hesitant to start. Does the starter sound "different" or the engine is simply taking longer than its normal couple seconds to start?

Can you post a video /audio of it cranking?
[MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION] [MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION]

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

Didn't check for codes. From what I remember him saying, when cranking it did drop..I forget to what but was a bit low. I started it just now, very hesitant..almost draggy. Turned it off and tried again, wouldn't crank over. Was trying to see if it sounded any different and grab a video. That will have to wait tho And getting to the starter I saw a couple of threads that it thru the top of the bike, not the side? Thanks for all your help!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well, I'd speak to him again or gather the information yourself...

If the battery passes a load test, but the starter drags down the voltage a bunch, your mechanic should be documenting that as well as the fix..

Sorry but it sounds like a poor diagnosis, especially since it's STILL NOT operating correctly, VERY OBVIOUSLY.

I don't like to throw parts at bike, it does sound like the starter, (which should come out the left (port) side of the bike).
I personally would narrow it down before R&Ring it.

You may want to look for another mechanic that'll complete the diagnosis completely...

 

[FinalImpact]

Do your best to describe exactly what you heard and felt when the event happened as it may tell us something.

For kicks, you might just pull the sprocket cover and eliminate that. Its three allan cap bolts and the cover comes out with a bit of a twist.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Do your best to describe exactly what you heard and felt when the event happened as it may tell us something.[/B]

For kicks, you might just pull the sprocket cover and eliminate that. Its three allan cap bolts and the cover comes out with a bit of a twist.

Post #3 has the details...

I don't see a loose front sprocket causing a check engine light, killing all power, and cause slow cranking...

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

He did say it sounded like the starter. I told him I would order one and let him know when it came in. If changing it is something I can do myself I would rather do it and learn something. Post #3 says it pretty well, loud whirring sound...heard it over the bike and the music I listen to. Didn't handle any different, just the loud noise that went on for about 5-6 minutes then engine light on and power off. Mitch had tried to make the bike reproduce the noise but of course it wouldn't. I can't see how to get the starter out of the left side, still trying to find a video or diagram of how it is in there, I'm just not familiar with it but don't mind trying. I see one of the bolts from the left side, the top connector and there is a connector I can see from the right side...still don't see how I can get to the 2nd bolt. Thanks again

 

[FinalImpact]

Just trying to find a reason for the noise. Related OR NOT....

 

[Motogiro]

A thought that come to mind because there is a whirring sound is possibly the starter relay becoming keyed on. This may be happening because there is mechanical failure of the relay itself or a keying of the starter circuit through the switch. IIRC the starter relay is mounted on top of the battery case. Look for any obvious problems at the relay to start with. It might be something as simple as something giving continuity to the starter relay lugs. If this was happening it would also use up a lot of battery...

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

I just replaced the starter relay, not OEM but aftermarket. It's been starting just fine before this incident. Have I said I hate electronics?

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[IAMJUSTIFYD]

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/57582-starter-switch-starter.html

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[FinalImpact]

Page 225 of the FSM shows two vertical bolts through the end of the motor is all that secures the motor.

It says to remove TB for access. At a glance, if you can unscrew the bolts, you may be able to pull it w/out removing the TBs.

The drive end simply has a round nose and o'ring into the case. You decide if access is possible from where it is....

PS - as long as the bolts are free of the threads in the block, you could leave them in the starter if they cannot be lifted out due to hitting TBs ect.

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

If I remove the tank I think I can undo those 2 bolts and pull it out from the side. I had accidentally hit the starter button while I had it running this evening and that is definitely the sound I was hearing. Perhaps it is the cheap relay I put on. Maybe go back to the relay before I put money out on the starter. I want to thank you guys so much for all the input!! I'm sure I'll have some more questions

 

[FinalImpact]

^^^ that would be the best place to start, no pune intended.

Its pretty rare for a solenoid of that type to self engage, if it were mine I would be inspecting all major connectors for growth. Just pull the 35 Amp fuse before unplugging a bunch of stuff.

Left side inner fairing connections (PITA to get apart).
Left Pod starter relay - big one, most wires.
ECU just push down and pull back. All should be clean and shinny, nothing growing...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well, if the sound from the starter is now odd, it either needs a rebuild / tear down fix as it's already damaged from the EXTENSIVE cranking(with heat killing it).

That second starter bolt, as noted, is right there but perhaps not visible. A small mirror or simply feeling down behind the starter should allow you to get a socket on it. That starter will slide "inward slightly" to clear the nose, then come out.

And pitch that "new" aftermarket relay, saved a buck there but probably got ya with the starter now..

 

[FinalImpact]

The flip side is the starter wasn't bucking the whole load of cranking a stalled engine, thus heat would be a fraction of what it would be cranking the engine. It was free wheeling but for how long???

If it ran for 5" or 15" on the way home, I'd pull it.
Like that other poster w the cover off, don't hesitate to grease or oil the shaft/gear when assembling.

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

The starter didn't sound any different but it was on for about 3 or 4 minutes while riding before battery went out. Think it's toast? I'm gonna get a video this evening so maybe you can hear. I'm gonna be so ticked off at myself if I gotta get a new starter cause I wanted to save money!

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

The starter didn't sound any different but it was on for about 3 or 4 minutes while riding before battery went out. Think it's toast? I'm gonna get a video this evening so maybe you can hear. I'm gonna be so ticked off at myself if I gotta get a new starter cause I wanted to save money!

The main thing IF it's toast is does it crank over normally? If it's slow cranking and everything else is the same, well, I think you know....

Does it make more noise than before?

An inspection wouldn't hurt especially if one or both of the above happen(s).




Of course you could always push start it, if stranded.