Dual H4 mod gone wrong; Help!

FinalImpact

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[MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION]

Will the coil collapse take out the LED in the gauge? It may be wise to fit a 1N5003 diode in there to shunt the energy to ground when switched off High Beam to protect the LED.

Also, if someone builds the circuit to the diagram above, and for example the relay failed. Its off state would allow LB operation unless the contacts burn. In which case, a pre made jumper (male to male spade) could be inserted to power the LB lights w/out the relay. Keep that in mind when making wire connections. Build a mini jumper!
 

Water Bear

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I enjoy helping out. That's the really cool thing about our forum! We have so many people in different walks of life that help each other out here. It is amazing how people like Randy and Scott offer constant technical help, support and documentation to help others.

The bd43 (a member on this forum) wire does exactly that. It provides the low beam signal that switches off on high beam. If you can't get abd43 wire I'll help you out. :)

It really is amazing the work you guys will do to help someone out. I cannot stress this enough but Scott saved my butt on a trip to TX by express mailing me a fuel pump O ring to stop a gas leak that had developed, then took repeated phone calls and questions on how to get the darn thing installed. You can't find people like this, on the internet no less, just anywhere. You guys make this forum what it is!

I'll take a look at what BD did. IIRC someone in the comments said you can use some pre-packaged parts to construct his spade connector.
 

FinalImpact

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In the electrical section is a sticky. Where to buy parts. You can buy the connector.

But honestly thre schematic I posted should do the trick on the stock HB wire.
 

Motogiro

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[MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION]

Will the coil collapse take out the LED in the gauge? It may be wise to fit a 1N5003 diode in there to shunt the energy to ground when switched off High Beam to protect the LED.

Also, if someone builds the circuit to the diagram above, and for example the relay failed. Its off state would allow LB operation unless the contacts burn. In which case, a pre made jumper (male to male spade) could be inserted to power the LB lights w/out the relay. Keep that in mind when making wire connections. Build a mini jumper!


I believe the circuits that are on the bike are robust enough that the protection diode is probably not needed but it would not hurt to include the diode to be safe. Then there must be no mistake in running the coil with a polarity specific connection. :) If the relay were in a different design environment I would imagine it could be more critical but on the bike the spikes are pretty well absorbed given the impedance they are looking at. Imagine the spikes from the horn and the starter! In some automotive electrical applications I've seen unloader circuits that isolate some parts of the car's circuitry but I think those were more inline with providing better current availability to the the starter.. If I was building a specific circuit that I thought might be sensitive to the spike I would definitely incorporate the diode.
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Water Bear

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Well...If I had seen this before I ordered one from BD43 things might be different.

Anyway, a quick update on the thread: I ordered a wire from BD43! On the plus side it's nice to support a forum member.

The wire probably won't be here by this weekend and I probably won't be in contact with the bike the week after that, so it might be 2-3 weeks before I have to chance to install and tinker.

I will be doing some other mods this weekend, just (hopefully) nothing that needs electrical attention.

Thanks for your help guys!
 
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