Dyno tune with CO adjustment Leo Vince

krid80, thanks! Your clarification helped allot!

So you took the pin out of the DB9 connector and inserted it into the back side of the connector? Is there a pin already in that spot of the connector? If there is already a wire with a pin attached in the connector, I was thinking of using a wire tap and running the wire to ground instead. However, if that slot of the connector is empty, I will add the pin and wire.
 
Last edited:
bergj1986 said:
krid80, thanks! Your clarification helped allot!

So you took the pin out of the DB9 connector and inserted it into the back side of the connector? Is there a pin already in that spot of the connector? If there is already a wire with a pin attached in the connector, I was thinking of using a wire tap and running the wire to ground instead. However, if that slot of the connector is empty, I will add the pin and wire.
Click to expand...

there is a female on one half of the connector but no corresponding male. That is the wire you are adding. There is a rubber plug in place of the missing wire that you will need to pop out.
 
Perfect! That's exactly what I needed to know, gonna do this mod this weekend. My FZ6 has a BMC air filter and M4 exhaust, backfires allot, expecially when cold and decellerating. Going to adjust my CO values to 20 and see what happens. Gonna use this as an excuse to do a few more mods too while I have the bike apart :)
 
I did this mod yesterday, having issues with it. I accessed the yellow wire with a red stripe and ran that to ground. I have checked my connections and I am sure the wire is now grounded. When entering diagnostic mode, all I can access is "d" codes. Once in diag mode, pressing the Select button does nothing. All I can do is scroll though the "d" codes. Did I tap into the wrong wire?
 
From what i've read so far, you need to press both the select AND reset buttons to go to the C0 menu, not just select. or it could be press and hold. i think select only lets you scroll through error codes, but that is a guess.
 
krid80 said:
there is a female on one half of the connector but no corresponding male. That is the wire you are adding. There is a rubber plug in place of the missing wire that you will need to pop out.
Click to expand...

this is the answer. I dont know what color the wire is (been almost two years since I did this mod) but just find the place where the wire is missing from the plug.
 
It's yellow with some kind of brown or red striping on it. Also, a word of caution to the north american owners, if you ground to your battery's negative terminal and do so by taking the ground cable off, it will reset the C1 and C2 adjustments made by the factory.

Or mine was just coincidentally set to 0;0 from the factory.

And the DB9 solution is one way. I just made another wire the same way I did the dual headlight mod using the blade connector in Autozone's assorted Ford terminal box. And some solder and a bench grinder.
 
Hi.

I did the CO unlock last night, very easy.

+14 C1 and C2. I live at 1.5km above sea level, so I did not want to add too much fuel.

Definitely less popping and smoother acceleration from low RPM.

Awesome!:thumbup:

P.S. I took out the DB killers for 2 minutes, then put them back : too much noise! :eek:
 
Weird, but I tried to access diag mode on a new 09, no dice. It's an Oz model, anyone down under tried?
 
Bikebiz said:
Weird, but I tried to access diag mode on a new 09, no dice. It's an Oz model, anyone down under tried?
Click to expand...

key off. press and hold both select and reset. Count to five (but keep on holding those buttons) now turn on your key and continue to hold both buttons without letting go of them. It may take 7-10 seconds of holding the buttons before "diag" appears on the screen, but it will.
 
Tried it - once I turned the key on the dash just lit up as usual. The only difference was that the temp display said "hi", then when I let go of the buttons, it switched to "lo".

Might try on another one......
 
I just tried these adjusments today. I have Devil cans on my bike with the db killers out, and they pop quite good.

Anyway: The baseline on my bike was actually C1: -14 and C2: 7.

First of all: Isn't this contrary to what everyone says, that the outer cylinders should be set richer than the inner cylinders due to less heat? Why is it so that the original settings on my bike seems to be opposite to this???

If someone could please explain that to me, I'd really appreciate it.

I also did a random adjustment of 14 points up the scale on both C1 and C2, making the bike noticably less poweful. It definately wasn't as eager as it normally is on doing wheelie in 1st, so I re-set it.
 
Capo79 said:
I just tried these adjusments today. I have Devil cans on my bike with the db killers out, and they pop quite good.

Anyway: The baseline on my bike was actually C1: -14 and C2: 7.

First of all: Isn't this contrary to what everyone says, that the outer cylinders should be set richer than the inner cylinders due to less heat? Why is it so that the original settings on my bike seems to be opposite to this???

If someone could please explain that to me, I'd really appreciate it.

I also did a random adjustment of 14 points up the scale on both C1 and C2, making the bike noticably less poweful. It definately wasn't as eager as it normally is on doing wheelie in 1st, so I re-set it.
Click to expand...

Interesting stock settings. I'd be interested to see what swapping those figures would show on a dyno with a wideband.
 
In order to satisfy my curiosity regarding this, I figured I'd call Yamaha Motors Scandinavia today to really get an answer.

They told me, quite opposite to what this thread says about the C1 and C2 settings, that they certainly aren't the settings for the 1-4 and 2-3 cylinders:eek: It's rather the settings for different rpm's. C1 is in the range idle up to 3000 rpm's and C2 is from 3000 and up.

Go figure??
 
Capo79 said:
In order to satisfy my curiosity regarding this, I figured I'd call Yamaha Motors Scandinavia today to really get an answer.

They told me, quite opposite to what this thread says about the C1 and C2 settings, that they certainly aren't the settings for the 1-4 and 2-3 cylinders:eek: It's rather the settings for different rpm's. C1 is in the range idle up to 3000 rpm's and C2 is from 3000 and up.

Go figure??
Click to expand...

man i heard this thing too, a mechanic told me in the way "you can play a little bit with the power range of your bike by setting the CO1 abd CO2" and went through explaining that if i increase or decrease c01 and c02 you can add a little bit of power on a specified rpm range, but i've read all over the internet that it is for other settings and didn't believed him, i thought after all he wasn't a yamaha stealership how should he know.
now that im reading this i wonder how carefull must i be when reading things on the internet
 
I am very very curious as to how a stock 06 FZ6 puts down 89hp. I dynoed mine with a filter and scorpion C/F cans and i got nowhere near those kinda numbers.

ps: I even did an oil change a couple of days before the runs and changed to AMSoil. Still didnt see the numbers i hoped for but full synthetic makes my bike really really happy now. :rockon:
View attachment 27126
sry forgot to change mph to rpm.
78.37 hp and then 81.49hp without the airbox lid.

View attachment 27127
38.63 ft-lbs and 39.67ft-lbs without airbox lid

whats ya'll secrets to getting these high 80's and 90's hp numbers?
 
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