Error 33 breaking my bike abroad- urgent help please

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Great progress!

**You do know, that pic posted of the throttle, the cable is NOT WHERE it should be, correct? **That cable should NOT be touching the metal handle bar at all**. Both cables should be completely inside the assembly, up against the plastic tube.. **It almost appears, the pull cable and return cables are mixed up on the throttle tube. This may very well be. If so, correct at the tube, then swap cables at the throttle body..

If it isn't, pull it apart, loosen the cables, route where they should be and they'll be good.



And I'm familiar with the throttle re-wind spring. Loosened my old FJR center spring, didn't like it and did the" zip tie re-wind procedure".(PIA)


Re the header bolts. You had the header off the head during disassembly. (All the nuts would have been off). What would be the issue re-tightening them?? You didn't mention any of the studs corroded or snapped, etc?


BTW, I developed an odd noise quite awhile ago.. Turns out I had (as I re-call) TWO HEADER NUTs, at the head, slightly loosen up. Re lubed them and re-tightened, noise gone. I also loosened all of them, cleaned, anti-seize) and retightened. Obviously, if ones stuck, DO NOT FORCE IT, IT WILL BREAK.. Work it, heat it, penetrating oil, etc...

The engine did sound funny, almost hollow or like an outboard under water once started... Might want to examine the exhaust gaskets to make sure their good. A very little leak WILL be heard...

 

[bigborer]

Yes, I put the throttle cable back in it's groove (pic was just to show how I found it).

The exhaust gaskets were in "fair" condition. The bolts were in good condition, it's just that the first time I screwed them using the "elbow meter", staying on the loose side. Then (after seeing smoke) I got the torque wrench and some of them actually needed about 1/4 to 1/8 of a turn before 20 NM... But honestly at this point if those gaskets are bad and leak 1% it's not really a concern- they're easy to swap and they don't pose any safety or mechanical risks.

Got any ideas regarding why the front turn and rear license lights stopped working? I'll check the fuses and measure the voltage at the sockets...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Okay, makes sense. Someone was in there and screwed things up..

Agreed on the gaskets, but I was just pointing out a very, very slight leak at the head, WILL BE HEARD.
Also, after a ride or two, re-torque those header gaskets, same for coolant hoses...


As for the lights, IDK. Cliff can chime in and get that straightened out for you:
[MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION]

 

[Motogiro]

The rear running light/ license plate light, OEM front running lights and flasher circuit do run off a single fuse that supplies both those circuits.
Fuses don't wear out so.....

 

[bigborer]

The rear running light/ license plate light, OEM front running lights and flasher circuit do run off a single fuse that supplies both those circuits.
Fuses don't wear out so.....

... so the winner is?

The horn isn't working either...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

It'd probably help Cliff if you would have posted about the HORN (with the question about the lights) instead of later..

No one but you knew that...

And did the fuse fix the lights?

 

[Motogiro]

... so the winner is?

The horn isn't working either...

It'd probably help Cliff if you would have posted about the HORN (with the question about the lights) instead of later..

No one but you knew that...

And did the fuse fix the lights?

Yeah if the horn and brake light are also out there is a fuse that feeds the horn and brake light. Since the brake light and running lights are both out the wiring that feeds the tail light may have been pinched and shorted. This would take out 2 fuses. I would look at the tail light wiring to start.

Also be sure all frame related grounds are attached to the frame.

 

[bigborer]

It's currently raining and dark so there's not much I can check but, what worked and not yesterday:

headlight: yes
front position light: yes
front turn: no
horn: no
rear turn: yes
brake (both front lever and rear pedal): yes
rear position light: yes
plate light: no

Checking the wire diagram from the service manual:
-Fuse (signal) covers:brake light, horn
-Fuse (headlight) covers: dimmer relay , which covers the high and low beam
-Fuse (tail) covers: turn signal relay and front and back bulbs, license plate light, tail brake light

So it can't be the fuses.

Front turn lights seem to share the ground with the headlight!?
The horn seems to have it's own ground.
Plate light seems to have it's own ground.

Before I start the tedious and frustrating process of removing parts and measuring on each socket and connection for ground to engine continuity and voltage- do you have any ideas what might have gotten pinched or ripped? The only thing I did was to remove and reinstall the engine; before that everything worked fine...

 

[Motogiro]

Test each specific device that does not work? Lamps and horn? The other might be the connectors associated with each device.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I would check everywhere (not necessarily taking the bike apart- maybe some plastic) and gently tugging on harnesses anywhere near the frame and engine.

Pulling the engine is a big job and it's not hard for a wire to move to someplace it shouldn't be...

You should be able to stick to the area's ONLY, where you worked.

Good luck...

 

[bigborer]

I've got more than 15 hours in over 40 phone calls, email messages and facebook messages sent! Every single Yamaha breakers yard found online and every "parts guy" I've ever bought from contacted! Multiple OEM parts dealers contacted! NOBODY has that sprocket nut.

Not even the local stealership has them in stock! I asked them "how come you don't have the nut, as you are required by the service manual to fit a new one every time you open it" -> "yeah that's true but we don't really do that many chain kits swaps" !!! . And it "only" fits every R6 since 2006 among other models (fz6, fz09, xj6, etc).

The few ones willing to order it ask for payment in advance and waiting one more day before the payment got through the bank (even more delays!).

Found a guy (national superstock racer) who said he'll try to help me out and order it tomorrow morning (without any prepayment), but he can't make any promises so there's also the chance it might get ordered next Monday or Tuesday- there's actually only one OEM Yamaha parts importer who makes one order per week and everyone else is buying from them!

So now all I can do is wait...

One more thing though- as I will fit tapered head bearings, I've checked some old photos of the frame head area in order to remember how the current races looked; just some snap shots I quickly took before fitting the R6 forks, and to my surprise- there is a small crack on the inside of the frame's head, visible only on full crop (didn't spot it while fitting the forks, though I remember using a flashlight) most likely in the region pointed with the red arrow (between the upper and lower bearing).

Is is a crack or a casting defect? What do you think? Normally you'd check the other side, but in this case the other side is the hole for one of the frame screws. If it is a crack, what in the world could have caused it? Frame screw overtightened by the factory? Because I can't imagine how the forces from wheelies or crashes could have caused a stress in that area.
Will remove the forks and check it as soon as I have the spare time, however I imagine that if it were a crack, it would have gotten larger by now (have ridden about 5000km since the pic till now).

PS: if the crack hasen't grown in size, I'll try to sand it down. That should be the simplest way to confirm that it's a casting defect, and a fraction of a mm sanded down shouldn't in any way affect the structural integrity...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I don't think that's a crack, odd location... Doesn't look like a casting issue either.

Agreed, look a bit deeper...

I have a used S2 sprocket nut (NO extra washer). The part that "bends" inward to the shaft looks brand new. I removed when I updated sprockets. I wouldn't hesitate re-using it, maybe a spot of RED LOCTITE as well...

I have no idea where you are in the EU, but if you want it your welcome to it... Just pick up shipping. Fast shipping is obviously more expensive.

 

[bigborer]

Well, if it's not a crack and not from casting, what else could it be? Don't know much about metallurgy...

I really hope it will just sand off, because if not, this means a replacement frame, which apart from more time, work and money spent involves a complicated procedure- proof of purchase of new frame, proof that the labor was done by a licensed shop, passing a inspection which I'd only pass with stock exhaust and blinkers (which I don't have), redoing all paperwork, etc. If it's on the left side I might get away with only replacing that half (the VIN # is on the right side)... Being caught with different serial # means criminal charges...

Thanks for your kind offer, but unfortunately it would take a minimum of 3 weeks to get to me. I've ordered a set of race tech valves for the VTR about 20 days ago and while the actual shipping took 10 days it still hasn't cleared the customs... The 2007 "all versions" service manual lists most of the S1 vs S2 differences (calipers, dash, etc) but only shows the S1 nut and foldable washer... if i knew about it I could have gotten one for $7-8 on one of the prior partzilla orders...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As I said, you'll need to check into it...

That area, (yes the entire head area is stressed-but spread out thru the steering bearings), but that location, there's no reason for it to break there.

If it is a crack, the ends need to found and drilled (1/8" drill bit) at each end of the crack to STOP it from spreading.

I'd then bring it to a place that does GOOD welding, let them "V" out the crack and TIG weld it.. It'd be fine after that..


And your welcome for the offer... Just a plan "B"..

 

[bigborer]

I don't know any "good welding shops", and I've heard of a few who weld car rims declining frame weld jobs saying they have little experience on frames and won't take the risk of the job failing and some guy getting injured or dead...
But again, I still hope I'll be lucky and it will just sand off

And finally some good news- just spoke with the racer guy and he said he managed to get the nut and spacer in this week's order (which he said left the European warehouse early this morning), and depending on the courier it could arrive the soonest this Thursday...

 

[bigborer]

Removed the triple tree today.

To my relief, that "crack" buffed right off

And I could not find any other strange marks inside the headstock.

Managed to also:
-remove old bearing races from the frame
-fit the new all balls races to the frame
-grind off 3/4 of the bearing race from the steering stem. Had to stop because the last 2 dremel disks I had broke to pieces...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Kinda what I figured, glad you got it confirmed...

You should be able to knock that race out with a long punch going back and forth.


Might have to leave my bike with you so you can play / fix her up!!!

 

[bigborer]

What do you mean by knocking the race? The part I'm trying to cut is this https://www.flickr.com/photos/130980346@N05/15862646754/ (pic taken from https://www.600riders.com/forum/how-to-s-/54766-fz6-steering-head-bearing-replacement.html )

I have just bought a set of dremel disks, I'll do my best to finish the job tomorrow.

If there wasn't around 6000mi distance, I'd take your bike for a few days, especially to test the R1 shock (if I recall correctly that you have one installed)


PS: thinking about it, I could have just ground 2 small slots, opposite of each other and then used those slots to hammer that race out using a flat blade screwdriver...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I was thinking of the race pressed into the frame...

And no, I don't a R1 shock in my bike, just "air forks" is the only mod to the suspension..

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Admin, pic will delete after 7 days;;

From the shop manual: