Error 33 breaking my bike abroad- urgent help please

[bigborer]

Saw that, but while I'm aware that the Yamaha engineers who wrote the manual knew more about this bike than I ever will, hammer and chisel "repairs" just make me cringe. The hammer is a tool I like to avoid as much as possible. More so that this bike has a certain age and it would have taken a LOT of pounding on the chisel...

Ended up managing to cut that race with the dremel, and completed the install of the all balls bearings. Needed it cut for using it to press (actually hammer) the inner race of the new bearing anyway.

It's currently raining and dark so there's not much I can check but, what worked and not yesterday:

..
front turn: no
horn: no
plate light: no

....

Before I start the tedious and frustrating process of removing parts and measuring on each socket and connection for ground to engine continuity and voltage- do you have any ideas what might have gotten pinched or ripped? The only thing I did was to remove and reinstall the engine; before that everything worked fine...

While I was at it, I also:
-checked the front turn signals connectors- they've got voltage, so this only leaves the cables and actual (ebay LED) blinkers
-checked the horn connectors- they've got voltage; sprayed some contact cleaner, scraped everything with a flat blade screwdriver, put a little "battery terminal grease" on both spade connectors and now the horn works.

Most likely, the plate light is also stopped due to oxidation on the connectors...

 

[bigborer]

Finally got that sprocket nut and spacer today!

Will try my best to make the bike fully operational by tomorrow. What's left is to install and torque the sprocket nut and cover, adjust the chain, torque the fork bolts and install the headlight, install the exhaust manifold (took it off to jack up the bike from under the oil pan), install the battery, install a bolt to the license plate bracket (somehow it got loose and lost), and finally make the plate lights work again.
The forecast says nice weather so hopefully I'll get it to the technical inspection shop on Thursday...

 

[bigborer]

Managed to: install and torque the sprocket nut and cover, adjust the chain, torque the fork bolts.

Plate lights: it's the actual light that's not working (they likely have their internals oxidized). I should have a new one... somewhere.

Front turn signals- it turns out that apart from the little oxidation at the sockets, the PO (actually, his dumb ass "mechanic", which I also met when I bought the bike) thought it'd be a good idea to connect wires by having a male bullet connector on one end, put a blob of solder on the other end, and use the hole of the male connector to stuff that other end through it. Basically the connection worked by the solder blob dangling inside the male bullet connector, which got a bit oxidized. I've also had the turn signals on the VTR fail, but at least in that case they were only held by a "twist and tape". In this case, the bastard actually put in some work AND had a soldering tool; it's impossible for me to find a reason why he couldn't just twist and solder the cable ends. Now I've made them to finally work.

Headlight: I've discovered that the low beam spade connector has burn marks and there is no voltage. High beam has voltage but only works on the trigger button (not sure what's it's English name). So I'll need a "new" headlight connector and to clean the (very likely) oxidized high beam button.

And still have the rest of what I mentioned in my previous post, as I couldn't work to much on this bike today...

 

[Motogiro]

Note that the headlight circuit is normally not active until the engine has been started and running. The ECU then activates the headlight relay. If you have a momentary high beam switch as on Suzuki and Euro bikes it may bypass the headlight relay.

 

[bigborer]

Thanks! After starting the engine the high beam does work (by turning it on from the "regular" button), but the low beam still doesn't. Might be the bulb, or might be the burnt connector. Does anyone know if the rubber booth is detachable from the connector?

Today I installed and torqued the exhaust manifold, charged the battery (though it had 90% charge) and ran the bike for about 12km.

It started on the first try. Had it idle for about 1-2 minutes, then drove it (more like crawled it) at 1800-2000 rpm until the temperature gauge got to 2 lines. Then I stared to do repeated cycles of acceleration- closed throttle, starting from 2500 rpm to 6 or 7k rpm, each time going 100-200 rpm higher. Almost every cycle it felt like there was more and more engine braking when closing the throttle, so the rings were definitely increasing their sealing. Didn't go more than 30-40% throttle or faster than 70-80 km/h (lots of traffic) but it does feel like it's where it should regarding power.

Issues:
1- it took a while to get to 3 temp lines, but after about 9 kms while waiting on a red light saw the temp gauge jump at 1 line before max and while I was staring at it it jumped to max. 20 seconds later I pulled off and waited for about 15-20 minute.
2- while waiting I checked the coolant hoses and discovered it was dripping oil on both sides of the engine, and there was also oil on my shoes
3- it makes a slight ticking noise on idle

Now, for:
1- it got to 2 lines after waiting (it was about 14C outside), and it didn't go past 3 lines on my way home (about 3kms from where I stopped). Every time I had to stop due to traffic I took a glance at the fan and it was off.
When I got home I checked the coolant level and it was fine- maybe half a tea spoon less than how I filled it (to the brim of the radiator cap), but most likely that was just space previously filled by air.
Will try to do what is said here https://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/42274-radiator-fan-problem-diagnosis.html , it wouldn't be surprising if there was some oxidation somewhere in the fan circuit

2- it seems that where were a couple of screws not fully tightened on the side covers- now they should be good. Otherwise it will need new seals

3- might have to tighten the CCT 1/4 of a turn more

Also checked the oil- the level dropped maybe 1-2mm (that's around 50ml), likely due to the side covers leaking, but it smells and looks like new.

Because of the heating issue, the fact that I was riding with expired road inspection, and it was nearing rush hour, I had to call it a day after those 12 kms.

Tomorrow I'll do the checks for the radiator fan and try to find a way to mount the front fender. As mentioned in the fender thread initially I thought I'd file down the mounting holes but it might be easier to make some tabs out of a piece of steel flat bar.
I need to pass the road inspection ASAP- and while I might get by with no low beam and no plate light, it's impossible to pass with no fender- it would be "vehicle missing body panels"- a reason for inspection failure which they can't let by as they are required by law to take pictures of the bike...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks! After starting the engine the high beam does work (by turning it on from the "regular" button), but the low beam still doesn't. Might be the bulb, or might be the burnt connector. Does anyone know if the rubber booth is detachable from the connector? THE RUBBER BOOT IS DETACHABLE.. IT SHOULD SLIDE UP THE WIRING HARNESS. A LITTLE LUBE WILL MAKE MOVEMENT EASIER. HOOKING UP A TEST LIGHT TO THE TWO WIRES (ONES HOT, THE OTHERS GROUND) SHOULD LET YOU KNOW IF THERE'S AN ISSUE. ANY BAD CONNECTIONS (BURNT UP?), SHOULD BE ADDRESSED. LIKELY A POOR CONNECTION THAT GOT VERY HOT..

Today I installed and torqued the exhaust manifold, charged the battery (though it had 90% charge) and ran the bike for about 12km.

It started on the first try. Had it idle for about 1-2 minutes, then drove it (more like crawled it) at 1800-2000 rpm until the temperature gauge got to 2 lines. Then I stared to do repeated cycles of acceleration- closed throttle, starting from 2500 rpm to 6 or 7k rpm, each time going 100-200 rpm higher. Almost every cycle it felt like there was more and more engine braking when closing the throttle, so the rings were definitely increasing their sealing. Didn't go more than 30-40% throttle or faster than 70-80 km/h (lots of traffic) but it does feel like it's where it should regarding power.

Issues:
1- it took a while to get to 3 temp lines, but after about 9 kms while waiting on a red light saw the temp gauge jump at 1 line before max and while I was staring at it it jumped to max. 20 seconds later I pulled off and waited for about 15-20 minute. DID THE FAN KICK ON THEN?
2- while waiting I checked the coolant hoses and discovered it was dripping oil on both sides of the engine, and there was also oil on my shoes LEAKING GASKETS OR NOT TIGHTENED?
3- it makes a slight ticking noise on idle NOT UNUSUAL..

Now, for:
1- it got to 2 lines after waiting (it was about 14C outside), and it didn't go past 3 lines on my way home (about 3kms from where I stopped). Every time I had to stop due to traffic I took a glance at the fan and it was off.
When I got home I checked the coolant level and it was fine- maybe half a tea spoon less than how I filled it (to the brim of the radiator cap), but most likely that was just space previously filled by air.
Will try to do what is said here https://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/42274-radiator-fan-problem-diagnosis.html , it wouldn't be surprising if there was some oxidation somewhere in the fan circuit MORE LIKELY IN THE FAN CONNECTOR. PUTTING 12 VOLTS TO IT AND IF IT COMES ON, THAT'S FINE..

2- it seems that where were a couple of screws not fully tightened on the side covers- now they should be good. Otherwise it will need new seals

3- might have to tighten the CCT 1/4 of a turn more

Also checked the oil- the level dropped maybe 1-2mm (that's around 50ml), likely due to the side covers leaking, but it smells and looks like new.

Because of the heating issue, the fact that I was riding with expired road inspection, and it was nearing rush hour, I had to call it a day after those 12 kms.
ALL THAT STOP AND GO, SLOW TRAFFIC,THE ENGINE WILL BUILD UP HEAT (ITS BASICALLY A LARGE HEAT SINK, ALONG WITH THE FRAME).

Tomorrow I'll do the checks for the radiator fan and try to find a way to mount the front fender.

As mentioned in the fender thread initially I thought I'd file down the mounting holes but it might be easier to make some tabs out of a piece of steel flat bar.
I need to pass the road inspection ASAP- and while I might get by with no low beam and no plate light, it's impossible to pass with no fender- it would be "vehicle missing body panels"- a reason for inspection failure which they can't let by as they are required by law to take pictures of the bike...

So is your initial problem resolved (forgot it's been SO long)?

 

[bigborer]

Yes, the initial issues now seem to be fixed.

Can't tell you if the fan was running when it got to max temp, because right when I parked I had to answer the phone and by the time I checked again it was down to 3 lines. Forgot at what point it used to kick in the fan but found some older posts on this forum where people said the fan starts at 4 lines on the gauge.

I agree that stop and go traffic make will make an engine hot, but not even the VTR with it's 1000cc engine, fairings, old coolant and during the melting summer heat ever got to max temperature. I've never seen the FZ6 get past half the temp lines after waiting at a few traffic lights, let alone on 14C...

I remembered that there were some tests ran by the diagnostics mode, and checked the manual.

51 Radiator fan motor relay
Actuates the radiator fan
motor relay for five cycles
every five-second.

52 Headlight relay
Actuates the headlight relay
for five times every five-second.
(ON 2 seconds, OFF 3
seconds)

This should make testing both the radiator fan and low beam a lot quicker.

Starting with the easiest I'll run the fan relay from the diagnostics mode, and then start checking connectors and the wires if necessary. If the fan does start, the next thing I'd suspect is low pressure inside the cooling circuit- the lower the pressure the lower the boiling point of coolant... Most likely the radiator cap could be at fault...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks for the update.

I re-read the first two or three pages..

There seems to be issues with corrosion at various connectors. Perhaps the weather there...

Once you done with the "follow up issues", I'd dedicate a day to going over the entire day checking other connectors, pulling apart what you can get to, adding dielectric grease (if clean). Also, just checking ALL nuts and bolts. I think, earlier in thread a coil connector was loose.

One of my previous bikes had an area of electrical connections that water got to (KLR250). I learned about the dielectric grease and applied it which stopped future issues. I put 73,000 miles commuting to work in our summer, HARD DOWN POURS of rain (and winter)- solved that issue...

Just preventive maintenance..

Keep posting, your just about done!!

 

[bigborer]

Thank you for contributing!

Solved the fan issue- the rubber heat shield (which might have moved when I installed the battery tray) was touching on the fan, making it barely spin. The angle and low light made it very hard to see, and though it spun by hand, that slight rubbing was enough to almost stop the fan. So now this is solved! While I was there I cleaned the inside of the radiator cap, which had a bit of limestone like deposits.

However please confirm if this sounds right: https://streamable.com/73b8i
To me it sounds a bit like the fan bearing is dry

Also did something I'm not proud of- check the attached pics. Will change it with metal tabs as soon as I can, but I'm 99% it will hold as long as speed stays under 120 kmh.

Rode for about 15 kms. It's still leaking oil from the stator cover. Don't have the patience to wait for few weeks for a gasket so I'll use the same stuff I used for the crank halves.

And managed to pass the road inspection. Won't go into much detail but let's say that I was very lucky today.

But I sure am glad to ride this bike! Compared to the VTR it feels like a scooter. And the power is steadily rising the more it runs. Caught a few stretches of open road and got (for a few seconds) to 10k rpm today. After getting used to driving the VTR I was expecting it to feel very slow at low rpm but honestly it feels adequate. Surely it's not the same as the VTR which according to the dyno run I had before purchasing has about 105 calculated hp at 4000 rpm but it's far from "gutless" (the way many keyboard warriors describe it). The 15t sprocket and the exhaust are certainly helpful...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I never tested my fan so I can't comment.

I know it works, it came on twice (bike running, too noisy) since I've owned the bike (since 2009) and I have a shield to protect the fan blades from pebbles jamming up there..

It doesn't take much at all to fry that fan motor (thus my shield).. As it's obviously working, I suspect it's fine.

I don't think you can "tear down" the fan motor (everythings pressed together) but if you can, just a touch of grease on the bearing(s) certainly wouldn't hurt..

I'm surprised that little bit of drag didn't cook the fan motor, that's about all it take's.


**Actually, I think Cliff torn down a fan motor (just for S&G's) and can comment about a "tear down" if need be..

[MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION]



As for the stator cover leak, what ever sealer you used on the block will likely solve that leak. Make sure you coat where the wires / rubber exit the cover.. Obviously, make sure both surfaces are spotless clean...

 

[Motogiro]

Yes I've attempted a repair on a members burned out fan motor. I was able to repair the toasted brush assembly but the was also stator damage directly related to the windings and the start up of the fan was intermittent and shorting., The fan motor is actually a great piece of artistic engineering!

That sound bite seems like there is resonance with that outer ring touching something.

 

[Motogiro]

After getting used to driving the VTR I was expecting it to feel very slow at low rpm but honestly it feels adequate. Surely it's not the same as the VTR which according to the dyno run I had before purchasing has about 105 calculated hp at 4000 rpm but it's far from "gutless" (the way many keyboard warriors describe it). .

Do not dis that twin! It will get your laundry done sooner and have it in dryer before you know it! Sometimes I think when you say your engine is a twin, some folks akin it to the HD or metric cruiser twin.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yes I've attempted a repair on a members burned out fan motor. I was able to repair the toasted brush assembly but the was also stator damage directly related to the windings and the start up of the fan was intermittent and shorting., The fan motor is actually a great piece of artistic engineering!

That sound bite seems like there is resonance with that outer ring touching something.

If needed, can the assembly come apart, bearings greased and re-assembled? Or is it all "pressed" together?

 

[Motogiro]

If needed, can the assembly come apart, bearings greased and re-assembled? Or is it all "pressed" together?

As I remember it wasn't hard to get apart. The permanent magnets are so strong they keep the two halves of the motor housing assembly together. There may be a spot weld involved. I don't remember for sure. I thought I saved that old burnt motor but I just went looking and can't find it.I don't think grease is an answer as it has roller bearing. Light motor oil?

I've drilled a small hole in the back of motor housings to introduce light oil to a rear bearing, I was successful getting it lubed that way.

That sound he's getting sounds like that outer fan blade ring is touching something..

 

[bigborer]

The fan doesn't seem to touch anything, but I'll redo the filming with my dslr - this phone seems to have the worst mic I've ever had on a phone...

One thing I've noticed today was the low beam coming on at times, so something between the relay and the bulb is getting open circuit...

I put some of that liquid gasket on the stator cover and... it's still dripping oil; but much less than before.. Though I left it rest overnight, it seems like it hasn't cured because when I wiped under the cover with cloth all the excess gasket material just stretched and wiped off like hot mozzarella.

The clicking noise is still present- tightening the CCT made no difference (got it to 1 turn tighter and still no difference). Once it's past 4000 rpm the clicking noise is gone. Will just see how this goes... only thing I hadn't measured was valve guide diameter, but hopefully it's not that.

Changed the oil today after about 65kms and it didn't look that great; oil is motul mineral 10w40. Will let it settle for a few days (put in a transparent bottle) and then pass it through a coffee filter. Will also cut the oil filter.

Next thing to do is check the coolant level and put new oil and filter.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The low beam (at least on US bikes), is ALWAYS ON (with the engine running).

The other side, the high beam, should only come on with the handlebar switch activated.

 

[bigborer]

Always on is also how mine used to work, now it works as "sometimes on"...

 

[Motogiro]

Is the bike a faired version like the US FZ6 or is it a naked, single headlight version? This will make a difference in low beam switching with a caution if the bike was originally a faired.2 headlight, changed to a single H4, but modification was not done to shut off the low beam when the high beam is active.

 

[FinalImpact]

My fan is pretty quiet compared to that. But it does sound like it's rubbing on something.

As for the oil, that looks pretty metallic there.
IIRC the tranny gears are donors from another bike?
As long as your rod, main, and ring end gaps are good it should be fine.

 

[bigborer]

Bike was originally the naked version, with a single headlight.

Yes, (also) swapped the transmission with one from a lower mileage bike.

Unless something is wrong, the only possible sources of that metallic dust would be the particles from the cylinders which were deglazed by hand with the scotchbrite pad, dust (from the OEM metallic paint) somehow getting in when I sanded and repainted the engine, and some aluminum particles from the tapered tool scraped by the rings when the pistons were inserted.