Error 33 breaking my bike abroad- urgent help please

[bigborer]

Had to also buy an impact wrench to remove the clutch nut, as it was impossible to remove using only a wrench and the holding tool.

So far I've found:
-some wear at the clutch pressure bearing
-(little) wear at the clutch collar bearing
-water pump rubber o-ring got a bit shaved off while pulling the water pump

If anybody knows any reliable online shop shipping from inside the EU, please let me know.

One thing that concern me: why is there that black marker letter at the clutch region inside the engine case? I don't think Yamaha factory workers from Japan are made to mark the QC with marker pens...

 

[bricksrheavy]

...

If anybody knows any reliable online shop shipping from inside the EU, please let me know.

...

Original new parts;

Motorcycle Parts From Europe?s Number 1 - MSP
- Ordered from them several times, no problems

Used parts;

Gebruikte, tweedehands motoronderdelen - Boonstra Parts
- ordered from them once + a friend uses them often and also no problems. The OEM toolkit I ordered was brand new (obviously unused by the previous owner)

 

[bigborer]

Original new parts;

Motorcycle Parts From Europe?s Number 1 - MSP
- Ordered from them several times, no problems

Used parts;

Gebruikte, tweedehands motoronderdelen - Boonstra Parts
- ordered from them once + a friend uses them often and also no problems. The OEM toolkit I ordered was brand new (obviously unused by the previous owner)

Thanks, I had found out few days ago about MSP, but couldn't find any first hand reviews about them.

 

[bigborer]

Just finished for today, what I found:

Drive axle:
-bearing 37 is hard to turn
-bearing 17 has some play

Main axle:
-bearing 13 is fine
-bearing 14 is hard to turn (partzilla says same part NO as #37) >>> could this be the culprit for the noise?

Gears:
-little wear on 2nd gear's dogs- I'd say great for the (alleged) 43k kms little scratches,+ some barely paint level deep on the sprocket connecting with those dogs
-otherwise all gears look great
-shift forks have no play

Pistons + cylinders: also looking great, honing marks look almost like new, no blow-by signs the the pistons (viewing from sump side)- I don't think I'll take the pistons off (requiring new rod bolts). One thing I'd still like to measure is crank out of roundness, however I still need to figure out how to secure the gauge's holder (it's magnetic type, and there's nothing ferrous to make it stick to), perhaps I'll be able to clamp it to the work bench, using 1-2 C clamps.

Now I need to find a small bearing extractor for bearing #14, and replacement bearings for all those with problems. Luckily they are made by NSK and have the NSK part # engraved, so they should be much easier, quicker and cheaper to buy than OEM Yamaha parts.

 

[bigborer]

Continuing my monologue:

Took a closer look at the gearbox and found out 2 more things:

1-the drive axle is freely spinning inside the bearing- the cause of that seems to be an enlarged bearing ID

2- the fixed sprockets have quite some lateral play- I don't know if that's normal or not.

I'm showing both those things in video: https://youtu.be/Ttk_qm_tiZA


Bad news about the bearings:
-couldn't find the NSK bearings by code exact code. NSK 6204DLA8- this is 18$ on partzilla, 44€ (!!!) on MSP, and 5€ online for 6204 alone (if anyone knows what DLA8 stands for, please let me know), as for 6305E10N- couldn't find it anywhere apart from OEM
-couldn't use any tools I've already got to extract bearing #14. This one doesn't have the axle free spinning inside it, but it's still a bit hard to roll. No crunchiness felt when rolling it. If only to avoid spending another 100€ on a tool I wouldn't be using too soon, I'd leave it in place.

As of now, there went about 135h into this...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Those gears shouldn't have any of that play, the worn ID, same...

I'd be looking a transmission on E-Bay.

 

[Motogiro]

Those gears shouldn't have any of that play, the worn ID, same...

I'd be looking a transmission on E-Bay.

Scott, I've been calling you all day and keep getting a trunk busy signal.... A few of us have been worried about you texting back and forth in the background... Were you in the path?

Sorry for hijacking!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Scott, I've been calling you all day and keep getting a trunk busy signal.... A few of us have been worried about you texting back and forth in the background... Were you in the path?

Sorry for hijacking!

Oh yea....

House-No damage. House phone is still down, cell works. The eye brushed us. It blew out 80' of seawall (which ISN'T covered by flood/house insurance).

Low tide was about 2-3' below normal. Boat and post lift is fine... Was on generator and portable A/C for for about 30 hours...Lost internet just after the storm passed. 110 MPH winds...

Waiting on estimate for the wall. (That 45 degree concrete pad WAS HORIZONTAL as was the davits).



Before:


After:

 

[bigborer]

Those gears shouldn't have any of that play, the worn ID, same...

I'd be looking a transmission on E-Bay.

Thanks!
But what could have caused that? The sprockets themselves look great...

PS:great to hear that you're OK!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thanks!
But what could have caused that? The sprockets themselves look great...

PS:great to hear that you're OK!

Thanks, my wallet won't be....

The trans should not have failed running on two cylinders. Possible low oil pressure???

 

[bigborer]

Finally got the valve press.

This is how it all looks like, I'd say it could have been worse...

Do you know any good valve stem seals, apart from OEM? I've found Athena (everyone knows they're crap), KR, JMT/JMP and Viton. Found some good reviews for Viton, but they were for car seals. Anyone used any of those?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

It definitely was sucking some oil thru that seal....

If possible, I'd stick with OEM seals, it's EXTREMELY rare they fail..


.

 

[FinalImpact]

Look close, is the source the guide or was it really the AIS from the valve cover? The solenoid opens and let's air into one side of one valve per cylinder. Which valve is getting air and which is not? AND do the other 3 cylinders look the same in relation to AIS air into the exhaust??

 

[bigborer]

Here is a picture of all the exhaust ports, hopefully I hadn't mixed up the photos.

I've ordered:
-Viton valve stem seals - 16pcs set - unfortunately this is listed as "The package is delayed and will not be delivered by the expected delivery date. An updated delivery date will be provided when available. The item is currently in transit to the destination as of September 24, 2017 at 9:54 am. It is on its way to SOUTH POMFRET, VT 05067. " >> WTF?
- full gearbox internals from a 15k kms FZ6- as confirmed by the UPS on the phone, it should have arrived today; probably it will arrive tomorrow.

Hopefully I'll get at least the bottom end fully remounted by Saturday.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sounds like your making great progress! Not much left to make that noise...

As this thread is so long, (and I'm NOT reading back 44 pages), did you, or are you going to check how well the valves seat / leakage
BEFORE INSTALLING THE HEAD? IE, fluid in the head/combustion chamber, upside down and check for any leakage)-(think you did already)...

I assume your going to clean out the head ports / tops of pistons real good before assembly..

I find it odd, perhaps coincidental, that the transmission (which is pretty stout), would wear out like that under those conditions...The oil pump is working, oil still getting everywhere.

I don't remember any posts about bad shifting/popping out of gear on this thread, just the noise...

 

[bigborer]

No, I didn't (yet) check for valve leakage. There was no point to do that until everything was cleaned of deposits. Either way, judging by the contact marks and coloring, they are most likely fully sealing.

What is left to be done before assembly:

-clean the valves (left them soaking in a random mix of what solvents I had left: naphtha paint thinner, kerosene and some carb cleaner fluid)
-clean the engine head, cylinders and piston crowns
-check the valve's sealing capacity
-measure crank runout
-measure with plastigauge the camshaft to journals clearances
-measure the valves seats touching widths
-measure and inspect the oil pump internals

 

[FinalImpact]

Well good luck with that!
With trans in gear and vehicle stopped, clutch in it pretty much removes the entire trans from the equation. Assuming it was quiet then.

 

[bigborer]

Today I received the new transmission.
Hadn't yet inspected it on daylight, but so far the good news is that the fixed gears have at least 1/2 the play less, and also lower wear.
The bad news is that the output axle is still free spinning inside the bearing's ID!!! And this was a gearbox coming from a 2007 S2. They must have made some kind of design flaw that eats away some of the bearing's ID, because the input shaft has an identical bearing, and if I stick the output shaft inside the input shaft's bearing (identical p/n) it makes a perfect, snug contact, and works normally, without free spinning.

I will buy something to "glue" the axle to the bearing, if I recall correctly loctite made some sort of high temperature resistant "bearing fixating compound".

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Any updates? Is it back together?

 

[bigborer]

No it's not.

I still don't have the valve stem seals, the parcel is either lost or (much) delayed by the USPS. I'll give it a few more days before opening a paypal case and ordering OEM seals from a local dealer.

Probably I'll get the bottom end fully assembled by this week but with the seals missing and not likely to come soon, there's no reason to hurry too much...

Even worse, the last 7-8 days the weather has been so nice, very not typical for mid October, sunny all day and warm, wore only a tshirt round midday. I really wished I had a functional bike to ride, though I did manage to have some rubber scrubbing twisties fun with car driving (until straights, no sportbikes managed to keep even remotely close ) while on a short holiday the mountains, and even went karting one day.