Fault code 14

[Stumbles06]

Hey all. Anyone ever had any problems with air intake pressure sensor...

Fault Code: 14
Diagnostic Code: 03
Symptom: Faulty intake air pressure sensor pipe system
Probable cause of malfunction:
detected hose
clogged hose
Intake air pressure sensor hose is detached, clogged,
kinked, or pinched.
Malfunction in ECU.

I cant find a listing of a pressure sensor on the Ronayers microfiche.

I'm going to lift the tank and make sure all connectors are firm and dry, just weird that this fault came up.

I rode to work yesterday (have been driving car for last 3 weeks but car wasn't available yesterday). Started it this morning to go to work, orange engine light stayed on and code 14 was on the display. Engine sounds fine while running, no rain has gotten water into connectors (been parked in shed for 3 weeks and it didn't rain yesterday).

Guess I'll go start pulling plugs and disconnect the battery and see what happens.

:rockon:

 

[FinalImpact]

You have the service manual? You can check it here:

CHECKING THE INTAKE AIR PRESSURE SENSOR
1. Check:
• Intake air pressure sensor output voltage Out of specification → Replace.
Intake air pressure sensor output voltage 3.75–4.25 V

a. Connect the pocket tester (DC 20 V) to the intake air pressure sensor coupler (wire harness side) as shown.

• Positive tester probe Pink/White “1”
• Negative tester probe Black/Blue “2”
** It doesn't list the 3rd color but its "L" for whatever that's worth! FP

b. Set the main switch to “ON”.
c. Measure the intake air pressure sensor output voltage.

All from page 8-81 of the 2007 Service manual.

Look here on the lower right hand side. Black thing with three wires. Pretty sure thats it!

 

[FinalImpact]

You have the service manual? You can check it here:

CHECKING THE INTAKE AIR PRESSURE SENSOR
1. Check:
• Intake air pressure sensor output voltage Out of specification → Replace.
Intake air pressure sensor output voltage 3.75–4.25 V

a. Connect the pocket tester (DC 20 V) to the intake air pressure sensor coupler (wire harness side) as shown.

• Positive tester probe Pink/White “1”
• Negative tester probe Black/Blue “2”
** It doesn't list the 3rd color but its "L" for whatever that's worth! FP

b. Set the main switch to “ON”.
c. Measure the intake air pressure sensor output voltage.

All from page 8-81 of the 2007 Service manual.

Look here on the lower right hand side. Black thing with three wires. Pretty sure thats it!

Might wanna read up on pulling the air box. . . Its pretty easy with the right tools!

 

[Stumbles06]

Cheers FinalImpact.

Looks like I'll be busy this weekend. I've pulled the airbox before, so I know what I'm doing there. I'll have a play and see if I can figure it out.
(Pocket tester = Multimeter?? I guess). The info you posted is in section 7-14 in the 04 service manual... I found it... eventually

I lifted the tank and disconnected the battery for 10 mins, still showing code 14.

7 years, I guess it was time something went wrong with the bike... Had a good run up until now.

:rockon:

 

[Nelly]

Cheers FinalImpact.

Looks like I'll be busy this weekend. I've pulled the airbox before, so I know what I'm doing there. I'll have a play and see if I can figure it out.
(Pocket tester = Multimeter?? I guess). The info you posted is in section 7-14 in the 04 service manual... I found it... eventually

I lifted the tank and disconnected the battery for 10 mins, still showing code 14.

7 years, I guess it was time something went wrong with the bike... Had a good run up until now.

:rockon:

Keep us posted Dave, especially as we have the same model lol. I hate electrical issues with a passion. I am so crap at putting the theory into practice. Some guys on here make it sound so easy. Good luck with the fault finding.

Nelly

 

[Motogiro]

You have the service manual? You can check it here:

CHECKING THE INTAKE AIR PRESSURE SENSOR
1. Check:
• Intake air pressure sensor output voltage Out of specification → Replace.
Intake air pressure sensor output voltage 3.75–4.25 V

a. Connect the pocket tester (DC 20 V) to the intake air pressure sensor coupler (wire harness side) as shown.

• Positive tester probe Pink/White “1”
• Negative tester probe Black/Blue “2”
** It doesn't list the 3rd color but its "L" for whatever that's worth! FP

b. Set the main switch to “ON”.
c. Measure the intake air pressure sensor output voltage.

All from page 8-81 of the 2007 Service manual.

Look here on the lower right hand side. Black thing with three wires. Pretty sure thats it!

"L" is the color blue for Yamaha wiring...

 

[FinalImpact]

"L" is the color blue for Yamaha wiring...

As you may have seen the hour of that posting I was TOOO TIRED to scroll to Schematic section and LOOK at the color code listing! LAZY eh! :spank:

Those damn picture of been real handy lately. . . :thumbup:

 

[Stumbles06]

Dammit, helps if you open your eyes when setting about finding the air pressure sensor.

Got the tank off (mainly to allow more room), got halfway through removing the battery and housing to allow removal of the airbox.... And noticed the sensor sits neatly to the rear of the airbox... Easily accessible without removing anything.... DOH!!!

Ok, went to grab my multi-meter... can't find the damn thing. Found my old multi-meter... No Batteries.... ARGH!!!!!!

Time for a beer and to blast away some renegades in Spec Ops - The Line.

:rockon:

 

[Stumbles06]

Right. After reconnecting the battery, I tested the pressure sensor as FinalImpact posted above... My reading is 4.75 volts... higher than the range specified in the book. (Hope I did it correctly, I unplugged the coupling and tested where the pins on the sensor go into the plug.)

Might still pull the airbox off and check all the intake air hoses, make sure none are blocked/clogged up.

:rockon:

 

[Stumbles06]

Have pulled the airbox off to check all hoses for kinks/blockages.

Now, does anyone know what the circled hose does... It goes from airbox to a port on the top/rear of (edit)Gearbox (not motor). Mine is a bit fouled up with what looks like oil and water???

I'll get a pic of mine and see if I can show what I mean.

 

[Stumbles06]

Got some photo's...
The port the hose connects to, each end of the hose (the white gooey one is the end into the bottom of the airbox and the position on the bike the hose goes to.

 

[Stumbles06]

Hmm, might not be too bad, found out its a breather pipe, I'm guessing with heat from the motor and the cold air from the intake, it may be just condensation??

 

[FinalImpact]

Correct, its the crank case breather vent. Engines have blow by past the rings and the normal operation of oil being atomized while lubing the reciprocating parts plus cooling everything in such as busy area (crank shaft, pistons, rods, cams, transmission, etc. . .), well it makes good deal of oil vapor. I don't see this being related to the issue you currently have but then again, perhaps it is. The moisture you found trapped could also have damaged the sensor!!!

When is the last time you drained the oil? Tee moisture in there (white in the oil) is NOT a good sign. Either the vent is plugged, you always run short rides, or water actually entered the crank case. Can you shed any light on any of this? Also is the bike stored out side and could it have been tampered with?

I would change the oil and clean out all of the hoses you can remove, to get the moisture out. Also keep an eye on the coolant level. Any concern about a head gasket leak? How has it been running until this?

This could be a real big deal if there is no explanation for it. The head gasket being the worst case!!! When was the coolant changed last? Give me a run down on the bikes history if you will. 7 years of ________?

 

[Stumbles06]

I changed the oil about 3000 Km's ago, all came out looking as good as new. I do use the bike as a commuter, around 26 Km's each way to work and back, so do about 250 Km's a week. The bike is stored in a shed overnight, so no-one has tampered with it.

The bike is running fine, just put it all back together and started it, still runs sweet.
I have been a bad boy though, after 50,000 Km's in those seven years, I've never changed the coolant.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I changed the oil about 3000 Km's ago, all came out looking as good as new. I do use the bike as a commuter, around 26 Km's each way to work and back, so do about 250 Km's a week. The bike is stored in a shed overnight, so no-one has tampered with it.

The bike is running fine, just put it all back together and started it, still runs sweet.
I have been a bad boy though, after 50,000 Km's in those seven years, I've never changed the coolant.

The coolant is easy to change out and doesn't take long to do. (I like the Prestone 50/50 mix).

Do you live near the water or is moisture high in the air? That could acccount for the crappy vent hoses but riding it daily and getting it hot should help keep them clean...

IMHO, I'd pull the rusty steel connectors and either replace them or clean them up real well and spray the inside with galvanized paint or it'll continue to rust.. I'd also pull the hoses and clean them out good with water and an old tooth brush before replacement

 

[Stumbles06]

Yeah, I've got 4 days of work this week, then I have 10 days off, so I'll change it, will do the oil and brake fluids too.

Think I might give Wolfman a ring and see if I can swap my pressure sensor with his and see if it fixes my error code problem.

:rockon:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yeah, I've got 4 days of work this week, then I have 10 days off, so I'll change it, will do the oil and brake fluids too.

Think I might give Wolfman a ring and see if I can swap my pressure sensor with his and see if it fixes my error code problem.

:rockon:

Good idea swapping it out before buying a new one! Please post your results..

 

[FinalImpact]

Not sure what I was thinking in that post up there. There is no relation to this sensor and the vacuum system / crankcase breather. They are NOT connected in any way. :spank:

Sensor:
I'd opt for pulling all the connectors apart between the sensor and the ECM inspecting them for corrosion, fungus, pins pushed out. See that "TINY LITTLE HOLE" on the sensor? Here is a another crazy way to see if still kinda works. It's a pressure sensor meant to measure the atmospheric pressure. At sea level its something like 14.5 psi / 760 mmhg. As you go up in elevation the pressure goes down so it VERY SENSITIVE!!!! I'm not sure if the voltage output tracks up or down with pressure change but follow this. Connect your meter wires to it securely so they don't need to be held by hand. Maybe even a push in some small gauge wire into the pins so you have about a 6 inch lead. Tape as needed so wires cannot short out. Put a laytex glove over the sensor and with the key on, grip the gloves over the wires forming a seal and squeeze the the glove so it builds pressure inside. The voltage should change a little if you have good seal. Also you could blow or suck on the tiny hole using a small rubber hose!!! Again, watch the meter for change and be very gentle should you get a good seal as you COULD DAMAGE the Sensor. Don't use canned air or a compressor!

COOLANT:
But ya, get that coolant out or there!!!! What many don't realize is the glycol continues to retain is "antifreeze" properties but the anti-corrosion function deteriorates and various forms of erosion begin between the dissimilar metals. Yours needs to come out, flush the system and please don't use tap water. Use the Premix as Scott suggested or buy deionized water to mix it with.

As for the milky looking films in the vent and likely in the crankcase, paint thinner / solvent / chain degreaser would be my choice for cleaning the hoses. As much as you ride, I don't understand why it has moisture trapped. The heat usually turn it to vapor and burns off unless you found the vent plugged. But if crankcase breather vents get plugged engines tend to find another source to vent the pressure from and blow past seals and gaskets. Is it leaking oil any where?

 

[Cali rider]

I don't have the manual with me at this time but there is a display in the DIAG mode that shows a value of current vacuum at the sensor port. Put a short piece of vacuum hose on the sensor, connect it to a hand held vacuum pump and slowly pump it up and then release the vacuum pressure. I believe that the DIAG display will show'0' @no vacuum and"100" @ full vacuum. Be sure to try this test with the current sensor AND any other that you might swap it with to verify results.

In addition, check the small collection of houses that connect from the throttle body bases back to the sensor. I found that there was a slight restriction on my FZ6 on one of those lines.

Good luck.

 

[FinalImpact]

I don't have the manual with me at this time but there is a display in the DIAG mode that shows a value of current vacuum at the sensor port. Put a short piece of vacuum hose on the sensor, connect it to a hand held vacuum pump and slowly pump it up and then release the vacuum pressure. I believe that the DIAG display will show'0' @no vacuum and"100" @ full vacuum. Be sure to try this test with the current sensor AND any other that you might swap it with to verify results.

In addition, check the small collection of houses that connect from the throttle body bases back to the sensor. I found that there was a slight restriction on my FZ6 on one of those lines.

Good luck.

But it has no hoses connected to the engine - Good idea about diagnostics. I wasn't sure if that was an option to check so didn't bring it up. If its in error it would be interesting to see what it displays if anything. Remember the pressure we are measuring here is SO SMALL ITS VERY EASY TO DAMAGE THIS SENSOR. Think of someone blowing really hard in your ear! It will hurt! :ban: Its that sensitive!!! You could kill it pretty easy.