Fork seals

blu04

Junior Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2008
Messages
111
Reaction score
4
Points
0
Location
Richland, WA
Visit site
I have a leaky front fork seal and have searched for any info on changing them out and couldnt really find anything, my main question is what all needs to be changed when installing new seals? I know there are several parts that hang out with the seals and just curious if they need to be changed as well. Also how hard is it to change the seals? Thanks for any input as I know a lot of people on here have a lot of knowledge and love to share it with fellow FZ owners.
 

Cali rider

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2007
Messages
1,328
Reaction score
51
Points
48
Location
Buena Park, California
Visit site
I had both seals start leaking and replaced them 1 month ago. The list of parts that I changed is below, pricing was from Ron Ayers

4TX-23125-B0-00_____METAL SLIDE 1_____2_____$5.02_____$10.04
4TX-23135-B0-00_____METAL SLIDE 2_____2_____$5.02_____$10.04
4TX-23144-01-00_____SEAL DUST_____2_____$5.70_____$11.40
5VX-23145-00-00_____OIL SEAL_____2_____$4.50_____$9.00
90430-10171-00_____ GASKET_____2_____$1.35_____$2.70

Subtotal $43.18
Standard Shipping +$9.00
Total $52.18


It took about 2 hours to complete. You will NEED:
- A 43MM seal driver. Brand new around $50, or you might find one used. If you are on good terms with a local bike shop you might be able to borrow one. Some will say "You don't need a driver, just use a hammer and punch". If that is your approach, don't be surprised to find your new seal leaks shortly after you put it back in service. Proper tools cost $$$, do it properly or don't bother at all.

- Some type of tapered bit to hold the damper rod from rotating while you disassemble and reassemble the inner fork package. An old 7/16" socket, 1/2" drive will work. Sand or grind the O.D. to approx. 5/8" at the end. You will need a long extension get the socket down into the damper rod.

Once in place, you loosen the socket head cap screw on the bottom of the outer fork tube. You can use a piece of pipe or anything similar, just be sure it is very clean as you don't want to contaminate the fresh oil on reassembly.

- 1 liter of fork oil of your choice and a very accurate fluid measuring container. A graduated 1 liter plastic beaker can be purchased for about $5.

Keep everything clean. Get all of the old oil out. And consider checking your steering head bearings if you haven't done so before.

Good luck.
 

r-a-m-o-n

Junior Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2009
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Argentina
Visit site
While taking the tube apart you should check for marks or dents on the tube in case it isnt a seal problem but a fork problem.

If you never done this before it would be a good idea to have a manual, it isnt hard to do it but it is easy to screw it up.

Wath out when you unscrew the fork top bolt that it wont fly away to your face

After taking out the stone guard (look that it has an inner side mark for fit) and dust cover to pull out the oil seal you have to pull them apart until it comes out (yes it has to be that way). The oil seal has a round clip that you have to carefully remove with a small screwdriver or something similar before removing the seal, notice how it fits for when you have to put it back after fitting new seals.

Pay carefull attention at the order of the parts that come out of the tube, and be sure to put everything together the same way or it wont fit and you could force and damage something.

I find that it is more accurate to measure the oil level as the manual says from the top of the tube without the spring. It should measure 134mm.

I cant remember of anything else, hope you do ok.
 

sdawg17

Junior Member
Joined
May 25, 2011
Messages
41
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
san clemente
Visit site
Hello everyone,

so I was riding home from work today and noticed a nice shiny trail of oil coming from my left seal and going down my fork. I was hoping somebody could give a basic explanation on how to do the fix (what do I have to take apart to get to it, steps, idk :[) since I'm not the most technical guy in the world.. or if there's a good thread that explains it better I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
 

greg

UK Luchador
Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Messages
1,771
Reaction score
12
Points
0
Location
Stockport, UK
Visit site
Hello everyone,

so I was riding home from work today and noticed a nice shiny trail of oil coming from my left seal and going down my fork. I was hoping somebody could give a basic explanation on how to do the fix (what do I have to take apart to get to it, steps, idk :[) since I'm not the most technical guy in the world.. or if there's a good thread that explains it better I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

as you probably worked out your fork seals are leaking

if you aren't that mechanically inclined it may be cheaper to take the bike to a garage and get them to do it.

the job sounds straightforward, but does have a few tricky areas. I managed to completely disassemble mine, but couldn't get the seals in place as i didn't have the right tool (and didn't want to bodge them, or damage my stancions improvising)
 

Kenward

Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2011
Messages
288
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Location
Tempe, AZ, USA
Visit site
as you probably worked out your fork seals are leaking

if you aren't that mechanically inclined it may be cheaper to take the bike to a garage and get them to do it.

the job sounds straightforward, but does have a few tricky areas. I managed to completely disassemble mine, but couldn't get the seals in place as i didn't have the right tool (and didn't want to bodge them, or damage my stancions improvising)

If you tap them in using the old seals and a screw driver/hammer it works great. That's how I did mine last week. No damage at all.
 

greg

UK Luchador
Moderator
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Messages
1,771
Reaction score
12
Points
0
Location
Stockport, UK
Visit site
If you tap them in using the old seals and a screw driver/hammer it works great. That's how I did mine last week. No damage at all.

i tried that, didn't seem to work very well (the washer kept deforming), and i didn't want to risk damaging my stanchions, so i just paid the mechanic to put them together
 
Top