Givi V36 and Admore LED Kit - fuse issue

[woomertj]

Hello - I am the proud owner of a "new to me" 2004 FZ6. Love the bike and it's in almost new condition - only 8800km. It came with a Givi V46 topcase and I decided to add this kit to it (V46 Top Case - LED Kit (TS)). I got it installed last night and got it working. Signals, brake, running lights, all worked. That said, I've had the problem that the 10A tail fuse (runs the signals and rear running light) is now blowing. It's happened twice. The first time I popped the fuse when testing the connector that runs to the taillight to determine which wire was taillight and brake light. I had my meter lead on the connector and accidentally bridged two of the prongs inside. I heard a small pop and found that fuse was blown. No problem. I replaced it, continued put it together, test, and no problem. I then went for a ride. After about 15 minutes, I went to signal and they weren't working Fuse blew again.

I was unsure on how to ground the harness. There were 5 wires, one for 12v constant power, brake, left, right and ground. It didn't say the best way to ground it, so I just found a bolt nearby on the frame and did that. I'm an electrical rookie, so this may be the issue. What is the best way to ground? The kit included an extra posi-connector which makes me think there is a wire I should attach to, but the instructions were unclear. Is this my issue?

Thanks!

 

[ozgurakman]

Welcome to our forum. :cheer:
You would use negative cable of park lamp for ground. I don't recommend to use frame for ground on a bike

Also, if fuse is continues to blow, you should check cables for if any of them are shorting.

 

[Motogiro]

:welcome: to the forum!

Generally a blown fuse is the result of a short that would cause more current than the fuse was rated for or a load that would cause more current than the fuse was rated for.

In many cases it may be a wire strand that is not insulated properly and give a current path to ground. Re-check your work.

If it's a short, a clue would be when the fuse blows.
Make sure the directionals/ 4 ways are in the off position.
Turn the key on. Does the fuse blow? Yes = shorted running light circuit (Blue wire).
No = Activate the left right turn signal. Does the fuse blow? Yes = Shorted left turn signal (Brown wire).
No = Activate the right turn signal. Does the fuse blow? Yes = Shorted right turn signal (Green wire).

Each circuit has it's own individual ground path. (Black wire)

Running light circuit.
Blue or Blue with a red tracer. This also includes a license plate lamp if the tail section has been modified. The same running lamp circuit powers the front stalks if they are OEM type with dual filament lamps.

Left rear turn signal.
Chocolate colored wire= turn signal filament.
Black wire= Ground or negative.

Right rear turn signal.
Dark green colored wire= turn signal filament.
Black wire= Ground or negative.

The turn signal color codes are the same for the front turn signals.

Again, Welcome to our great forum!

 

[woomertj]

Thanks for the replies. I found the issue this evening. One of the wires had slipped down between the frame and contacted the hot exhaust under the seat and melted the insulation. I've re-routed the wire and wrapped the damage section and so far so good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[woomertj]

Thanks for the replies. I found the issue this evening. One of the wires had slipped down between the frame and contacted the hot exhaust under the seat and melted the insulation. I've re-routed the wire and wrapped the damage section and so far so good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk