Help needed! Stripped the threads in my oil pan

[calwhit33]

So I was putting the screw back in after draining the oil and it got tight then just kept turning. No damage noted to bolt but there is quite a bit of wiggle now. Not the first time changing my oil but got careless screwing into aluminum threads. What are my options the bike in question 2006 fz6. Hopefully there is an easy fix, thank you.

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[FZ09Bandit]

You may find and oversize bolt they sell them at auto part stores, either that or tap it.

 

[ped]

plug that bitch with silicone and go

 

[FZ09Bandit]

Do not do that. It will wait untill you are far from home or going a good speed to let loose OIL all over the highway. Do not jerry rig it up.

I have a hard time believing with your rep points you would even suggest such a thing. Even sarcasm can be taken literally.

 

[ped]

lmao :Flip:

 

[calwhit33]

I have read about using a heli coil, anybody ever mess with one of these? What all entails on an instal?

 

[nosugar0carbs]

get a self tapping drain bolt and dont strip that one

 

[FZ09Bandit]

I have read about using a heli coil, anybody ever mess with one of these? What all entails on an instal?

Don't listen to the half assing troll above me. Reported it as bad info.

If you're asking what needs to be done to heli coil it. You need not even think of it. New oversize tap bolt at you're local auto parts store.

 

[Motogiro]

Do not do that. It will wait untill you are far from home or going a good speed to let loose OIL all over the highway. Do not jerry rig it up.

I have a hard time believing with your rep points you would even suggest such a thing. Even sarcasm can be taken literally.

I think he's joking!

 

[FZ09Bandit]

Hmm, then following up with useful info would have been. Well. Useful.

 

[FinalImpact]

IME - Self taping oversize plugs tend to keep "self tapping" and remove the threads with just a couple plug in/outs. That would not be the best choice IMO.

You could:
- Replace the pan
- install a Heli-coil, i.e. install steel threaded insert.
- tap and install a ball valve drain plug (you could thread lock or epoxy it in)

If it were mine, a heli-coil would do the trick. A complete kit comes with a drill, a tap, coils, and installer device, and likely some thread lock. Make certain the length of your bolt will not bottom in the insert. If it does, you need to shorten the bolt or get a longer insert. If the two meet due to the bolt being to long, it can cause the insert to back out.

For the install you grease the drill and tap to try hold the metal chips on them so they can be extracted. Some extra oil to poor through the engine to get the metal shavings out At least a Qt or more. PS - nothing says you can't drill while OIL IS pouring out (even old oil!). Its just messy! It is highly effective at chip removal. If you do this, DO NOT USE GREASE!

Grease drill bit and drill hole to over size. Grease tap and Tap hole (cut new threads for the heli-coil). Use a Q-tip and grease to remove shavings. Poor oil through filler cap and flush out shavings. Repeat, repeat, repeat.

Tip bike to keep oil from coming out of hole and clean fresh threads with brake cleaner. Clean insert with BC. Apply thread bond to outside of insert and use the tool to install insert to depth.

That's the just of it. I'm sure you can find a utube vid on it.

ALSO - you could pull the pan too and not deal with the chips in the engine. I've gone so far as to stick a vacuum cleaner hose up to the pans hole to remove chips. It works! You MUST REMOVE THE FILL CAP THO!!.

EDIT: It can go easy and in cases it can go wrong. You need a good drill with a chuck capable of holding a large bit. You also need a good sense of alignment to drill the hole and start the tap straight, not off to the side. If you don't think you're able to square up the tool and drill & tap a straight hole, remove the headers and pan and take the pan to someone who can. The BIGGEST MISTAKE during the thread cutting process is not pushing hard enough and squarely. Followed by removing the tap before an actual thread is cut. Thus, going back in you start threads a few degrees different location and waste precious material. Ping me if you choose the heli-coil path, there are more tricks.

 

[FZ09Bandit]

Good info above, but it is easy to screw up OP. Take your time and follow directions. Just don't hulk it down next time. These things tend to Happen on 2nd- 3rd owner bikes. It Urks me working on something where the owner has used the wrong wrench or vice grips on the oil bolt and battery cables especially.

 

[jbwaterman84]

After you get the threads fixed, these work really well: http://www.stahlbus-us.com/oil-drain-valve/?xploidID=m2lgfbshh5583ld4ggfojot0a5

 

[Powerman]

Either replace the oil pan or heli coil the existing but remove the pan before you do the heli coil. The pan isn't that hard to remove and is worth it to eliminate any chance of aluminum chips in the pan. I've used the grease method and still lost an oil pump to chips. Most likely, if you've stripped threads, you already have chips in the sump.

 

[Wildcat_drvr]

I read an article in Cycle World magazine Search Results timesert: about a repair that uses a solid insert instead of the "slinky" look of of a Heli-coil.Not cheap but looks like it would be stronger.Good luck! Rich

 

[FinalImpact]

I read an article in Cycle World magazine Search Results timesert: about a repair that uses a solid insert instead of the "slinky" look of of a Heli-coil.Not cheap but looks like it would be stronger.Good luck! Rich

We use a product like this ^^ in fixtures that secure a product for shake and vibration in an environmental chamber. The fixture is aluminum with a steel insert. The bolts are ran in and out 150 times a day over two shifts.
It is good stuff but the cost to install could exceed the cost of new or used pan.

Jergens Expands Keylocking Thread Repair Inserts Line with MS and NAS Standards Mod

I think product we use is this: http://catalog.alcoafasteners.com/r...3&prodid=3001558&action=&forward=&backtoname= WAG: http://catalog.alcoafasteners.com/i...&by=prod&filter=0&categid=1053&prodid=3001558

 

[darius]

How about removing the pan, drilling and tapping to next size up drain bolt, clean, reinstall? No inserts or self tapping bolts.

 

[Hellgate]

How about a clean, used pan?

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[FinalImpact]

How about a clean, used pan?

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I just happen to have the tool and inserts - repair of a friends bike.

New is ~ $120 and it comes w/ new plug too!
Used would be good choice, well if you can't grab the kit for $35 bucks or less.

STRAINER COVER ASSY 4S8-13400-00-00 (replaces 4S8-13417-00-00)

It is worthy to note they rolled the PN throughout the years.
This is: 4S8-13400-00-00 07 -09
4S8-13417-00-00 STRAINER COVER ASSY $113.72
4S8-13400-00-00 STRAINER COVER ASSY $113.72

 

[bdevries]

some unhappy campers in this thread..


make sure with all your life that you dont leave any shards of metal in there after tapping it.. goodbye engine..