Need help! (Morgan carbtune pro)

[Slopeflyer]

Purchased the new carbtuner. Long story short the #4 will not show on the gage. When I blip the throttle I will come up but at idle goes all the way down. Tried to adjust (clockwise) all the way in and no difference even after blipping the throttle. Taking off the air cleaner to check the the vacuum hose. Had the air cleaner box off last weekend didn't see a problem with it. Where else should I look.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Purchased the new carbtuner. Long story short the #4 will not show on the gage. When I blip the throttle I will come up but at idle goes all the way down. Tried to adjust (clockwise) all the way in and no difference even after blipping the throttle. Taking off the air cleaner to check the the vacuum hose. Had the air cleaner box off last weekend didn't see a problem with it. Where else should I look.

If you have NO adjustment left in any ONE cylinder, ADJUST THE BASE SCREW, #1, OUT APPROX-1/4 TURN,. that will give you more adjustment in the rest. If that doesn't work (it should), you have issues elsewhere.

Also, DO NOT adjust the center screw(has a spring under it for syncing the throttle plates between the the TWO throttle bodies.)

Someone could have messed with #1 previously...

Re-check and re-adjust at a steady 4,000 RPM. Get a happy medium between idle and 4k and you'll get rid most vib's..

BTW, the #1 screw is NORMALLY around 1 FULL turn out from lightly seated.

Please post your results..

Good luck..

 

[Slopeflyer]

Put #1 out one full turn no help. When I go out two full turns it it gets better. ( re-syncing all the way across as I go). When I go out three full turns it get better but I start losing the ability to adjust the idle. This is with #4 fullly closed.(clockwise). If I open #4 up the bar goes down.
The reason I am doing this is poor gas mileage(30 mpg at best). Other than that the bike starts right up and flys down the road. There is a buzz between the legs between 6 and 7k.

 

[Slopeflyer]

At idle with #1 out 1 1/2 turns I can get 1 thru 3 running at 16 on the guage, number 4 just under ten. At 4k rpm I get 1 thru 3 at 25 on guage and 4 at 20 on the guage. That's with #4 screw all the way closed.
Bike history: 06 fz6 purchased a month ago with 460 miles on it. Fresh oil, filter,new battery,hi flo air filter, new fuel pump assembly. Tank was taken off cleaned and coated at the cost of 300 dollars. The person I bought it from had just paid $1,090.00 in June 2014 to get it back in running order. I have ran 3 tank fills Chevron fuel and used a bottle of chevron textron additive. Have two thousand miles on bike now.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

At idle with #1 out 1 1/2 turns I can get 1 thru 3 running at 16 on the guage, number 4 just under ten. At 4k rpm I get 1 thru 3 at 25 on guage and 4 at 20 on the guage. That's with #4 screw all the way closed.
Bike history: 06 fz6 purchased a month ago with 460 miles on it. Fresh oil, filter,new battery,hi flo air filter, new fuel pump assembly. Tank was taken off cleaned and coated at the cost of 300 dollars. The person I bought it from had just paid $1,090.00 in June 2014 to get it back in running order. I have ran 3 tank fills Chevron fuel and used a bottle of chevron textron additive. Have two thousand miles on bike now.

Sounds like something amiss with #4.

Here's a video here with a Motion Pro (same procedure). #1 (please see below pic)shouldn't be out more than one turn or so, maybe 1.25 turns out from lightly seated.

I forgot what my general #'s were (they just need to be even, the highs and lows don't really matter, just that their even). I'm thinking around 24-26. Should be towards the middle of the gauge(as in the below video).

I think Randy had a post about cleaning out that "adjustment" mechanism.. Possibly removing those screws and spraying with carb cleaner may blow out any cap that may be lodged in there. Please wait for Finalimpact to chime in as I think he had some experiance with taking that mechainism apart.

Here's a video (but with a Motion Pro unit)-SAME PROCEDURE;

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmLwyAPMBLI"]How to synchronize your throttle bodies. - YouTube[/ame]

I have to ask, you are using #1 as the base cylinder, ONE turn out from lightly seated, correct?

The below pic is what I made up for myself (taped down to an adjacent stool) when doing a sync;


You are adjusting the proper screws, correct? (its not hard to mix up, thus my "cheat sheet")


BTW, that #4 being waying out (if your adjusting the correct screws) is most likely your mileage issue...


[MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION]

 

[Slopeflyer]

Thanks I watched the video and I am doing it the same way. Took it for a ride after the last post. Drove it 32 miles one way to the dealer to get new plugs. It is smoother, I could see out my mirrors at 75 mph much better. It idles at 1350 but #4 is still off. Now I am just scratching my head wondering why. Why can't anything go easy for me:spank:

 

[FinalImpact]

Sync is all over at 5k so vibes above that if not spark induced are likely something else. Confirm cap to wire is tight, gap is under 0.028". And then its down to compression, valve timing, fuel injector and all that. With the miles so low i dont see the IACV being the issue. Seems more like somethin else.
Do keep in mind the default action is valve adjustment and then TB sync. Because of the low miles and rust id be wondering about the injector leaking from debris stuck in it.

Spray the headers with a misting bottle about 12" from the exhaust port and see which one evaps first & last. Should offer some insight.

 

[Slopeflyer]

Just took it for a test ride. The bike runs great. Very smooth. Very little vibration in the 6k to 7k range. It is super fast and responsive. With that said #4 screw is closed all the way. (Clockwise) and it is still lower than all the others on the sync pro. Going for a long ride tomorrow. Will not have time to work on it tell next weekend. Will check mileage all next week when I commute to work.

 

[FinalImpact]

If it runs well, you might just have a pin hole vacuum leak somewhere. Consider pulling the air box off and inspecting the hoses. 4 hose clamps and 4 3mm allen cap screws. Your gonna want a LONG reach allen. Like 1/4 to an adapter w/3mm allen - say 8" long. Edit: and the battery and its box. 10mm... Takes maybe 15" tops.
Maybe a hose wore through??

And check these at the bottom. There are 4mm.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just for S&G's, can you get your hands on a leak down tester? Maybe borrow one from an auto parts store? A compression tester would work too but the LD tester MUCH more accurate..

I just got one and am amazed at much you can do with this simple tool(compressor required).

#4 is the easiest plug to get to and the tester has a long hose that screws down into the spark plug hole. You do need to get the #4 piston to TDC on the compression stroke (all valves closed on that cylinder). (Stick it in gear to help keep the engine from rotating).

After adding air and setting the gauge, it'll show the amount of leak down that cylinder has. IE, if the exhaust valve is leaking, you'll hear air coming out of the muffler. Intake valves, air coming out from the throttle body, bubbles in the radiator-blown head gasket or block.

I'd just like to confirm that cylinder is within acceptable levels... A partially open valve (carbon maybe), holding a valve open slightly, would affect vacuum at your gauge..

Randy, do see ANY ISSUES shooting carb cleaner, TB cleaner, down that #4 screw hole (at least #4, probably all of them)???


Just as a side note, I played with it on a 2 stroke(can only test the rings, cylinder, head gasket, head-NOT the lower seals, reeds, etc) on 2 engines.
One had about 2% leakage-excellent, the other, it leaked like a sieve past the rings. It was my neighbors old engine and he inspected the rings. He apparently did NOT check piston ring end gap..


The leak down tester referred to;

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The more I think about it, an 06, with less than 500 miles when you bought it, fuel could have varnished up inside that mechanism. A ride here and there, let it sit ALOT, etc..

Yes the fuel injector could be clogged up BUT that shouldn't affect the vacuum gauge.

Those adjustment screws are adjusting air flow thru the mechanism which is hooked directly to the throttle bodies. If its clogged, you won't get any readings/adjustment showing at the gauge.

As FI posted above, the sync affects the lower RPM's, (under 4-5K).


Just a side note, your situation is somwhat unusual.

I'm leaning towards something clogged up in that #4 hole (adjustment screw).

Fuel doesn't flow thru that adjustment screw, just air, so fuel cleaner isn't even getting near there...

IMO, if it were my bike, I would pull out those adjustment screws and blow carb cleaner or brake cleaner (not as aggressive as carb cleaner). I would also blow some thru the pink lined, #4 vacuum line, as well. If you have an air compressor, some LOW air pressure as well. Getting to and pulling that specific line (pink, #4) and verify its nice and clean wouldn't hurt.

 

[Slopeflyer]

Scott that might be a little over my pay scale (head). Decided to stay home today and remove radiator, flush radiator, check plugs, gap and install new plugs. With that I looked at the mechanics receipt the guy I bought the bike from and they clean the fuel injectors also. While I am in there I will check vacuum tubes for pinhole leaks. If I need new vacuum hose what size and where can I purchase.

 

[FinalImpact]

Before you tear it apart, please take a squirt bottle to the headers at idle. Spray each with the same volume of water mist and report back which order they flash off... I.e. if #4 is lean it will run hot and the moisture will be gone first. If it stays wet the longest its running rich would could indicate debris in an injector.


Listening to the injectors with a stethoscope or a long screw driver would be helpful.

Think of the engine as a big pump. If all 4 holes are performing the same, changing the AFR at idle can balance the rpm of the pump.
Again, valve timing could cause this but so could a leaky injector, too much plug gap, an air leak, or least likely the IACV being plugged on #4.

 

[Slopeflyer]

Sorry already have it apart. The spark plug gaps were good . The plugs themselves looks good. I noticed when I pulled the number 4 cap off it was not on the threads of the spark plug as good as the others. Putting spark plugs in and flushing radiator as we speak.

 

[FinalImpact]

Haha - did you verify the MCT that all ports do the same thing? i.e. swap #1 and #4 just to make sure the tuning hardware is not misreporting values...


Also to get baseline use a T and connect it to the vacuum sensor. This looks at all 4 cylinders at once. Use any one of ports on the MCT and confirm they all report the same value.

 

[Slopeflyer]

I did test the m.c.tuner. It seems to be working. Haven't done the t thing yet, will try.

 

[Slopeflyer]

Under the #4 tb were the rubber tube from the t section hooks up there is another spot under it were it looks like another tube should be.

 

[Slopeflyer]

Photo to provide a visual of what my last post was referring to.

 

[Slopeflyer]

I think I solved my problem. I feel the shop that worked on it did not hook the vacuum lines right. Found empty hole were #4 tube for syncing should have been attached. Found tube for #4 attached to #3 and found #3 tube not attached to anything. Will put it back together and finished the radiator flush and report back.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well that would explain it all.

The lines with the PINK Painted lines goes on cylinders 1 and 4, just like my little short cut NOTE shows.

A little dilectric grease on the spark plug cap(where it meets the valve cover) makes installing and removing MUCH easier. You'll literally be able to hear and feel it snap onto the plug...

Your fonding are why I don't like going to "Professional" shops... Absolutly no reason for that..