No crank with full battery. What can be the case? (Not the bike this time)

fazil

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I have a 2006 Yaris 1.3 gasoline car that has done 70k km so far, and served well for 10 years until this morning.

When i turn the key, there is no crank. Clutch safety switch works fine. Battery is like new condition, and seems full. Dashboard seems fully working and other electrical parts work fine also. I can just hear a relay clicking after i turn the ignition. Nothing else happens.

So any help would be useful for me. May be just a relay or fuse problem, may be the starter motor is dead, i have no idea.
 

erburtt

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Have a look at all your fuses, and check for corrosion/looseness on the battery and main grounding wires. Sometimes it looks connected but if its loose it won't have the connection it needs. I had this happen on an accord, negative terminal on the battery was pretty loose and had a lot of corrosion, some baking soda and water then dielectric grease followed by tightening it up fixed it
 

fazil

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I just checked the battery terminals. Disconnected the negative terminal to reset the car. But didn't work. I didn't look at the other main grounding wires though.

Just after turning the ignition, I hear a relay clicking and deep weeping voice following like fuel pump priming and then relay clicks again and nothing happens.

No crank and no intension to start. Car was working fine yesterday, no issues, just the fuel level was very low, blinking fast but i put 4 lt of gasoline this afternoon. So fuel shouldn't be an issue.
 

FinalImpact

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I just checked the battery terminals. Disconnected the negative terminal to reset the car. But didn't work. I didn't look at the other main grounding wires though.

Just after turning the ignition, I hear a relay clicking and deep weeping voice following like fuel pump priming and then relay clicks again and nothing happens.

No crank and no intension to start. Car was working fine yesterday, no issues, just the fuel level was very low, blinking fast but i put 4 lt of gasoline this afternoon. So fuel shouldn't be an issue.

Make sure the trans is in Neutral and bypass the relay between the battery and starter with a pair of jumper cables. If the engine cranks, the relay is bad. If it doesnt crank, the starter itself may be bad.
You could place meter or test lamp on the downstream leg to the starter and if it shows battery voltage, either the cable to the starter is bad or the starter itself.

Does the battery voltage drop when it clicks? If so, how much?
 

fazil

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Does the battery voltage drop when it clicks? If so, how much?

No it doesn't. I tried to crank it with headlights on. And it didn't affect the lights. Looks like starter relay or a fuse is broken.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Starter relays can click (the internal coil functions) but the high amperage contacts are burned up and don't pass current.

As FI, posted, turn the ignition on, bypass the relay and just run 12 volts direct to the starter. IT should crank/start.

If 12 volts to the stater does nothing, the starter has likely failed, lost ground, etc..


The below pic is the burned up contacts of my starter relay (clicked, no crank) after I replaced it (Yamaha F150 HP outboard engine, about 2300cc's).
You can see where the one contact is seriously burned up:

 

FinalImpact

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No it doesn't. I tried to crank it with headlights on. And it didn't affect the lights. Looks like starter relay or a fuse is broken.

Be advised that we are talking 3 - 700 amps of current which will throw sparks and may melt cheap ends on jumper cables.

Pliers can be used too, but they too can be damaged and use some with insulated handles as it can give you an electric jolt when you disconnect. Be careful!
 

fazil

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I took out the battery for charging this morning. It's a 60A/h battery and i have a 1A/h motorcycle battery charger, so i have to wait at least for a day to recover.
If it doesn't work out i'll try to check the relay next. I have a spare working Fz6 Starter relay, both of them are denso brand, and sizes look similar, may be they fit each other :)
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Are their any part #'s on them?

I would think the FZ would be a much lighter duty unit. Probably ok to test, but if it works, I'd get the proper one.


You CAN jump start the car battery from another running car if you wish...(the trickle charger is best thou for the health of the battery)
 

Billsbet0

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I think this is a smaller size car. You could try a push start. Did this a bunch with a old Honda civic. Put the ignition in run, car in nutral, have someone push. Put clutch in and place in second gear and pop clutch. If it starts, the starter is dead.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
 

fazil

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Thanks for the replies. I tested starter relay and it works good. Then i tired to just knock the starter motor with hammer, while my friend was cranking the engine and it started at the 3th try. I've read this knocking starting style in a forum or somewhere in internet. So it works :)

I guess the car needs to go to service soon for a starter disassembly. May be the brushes are bad. I'll write back soon.

Ps: Toyota Yaris is a small car as you guessed. I don't know if they were produced for US market. Very reliable and driver friendly but not young anymore, Almost 10-11 years old. Some wear and tear expected :(
 
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ozgurakman

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I took out the battery for charging this morning. It's a 60A/h battery and i have a 1A/h motorcycle battery charger, so i have to wait at least for a day to recover.
If it doesn't work out i'll try to check the relay next. I have a spare working Fz6 Starter relay, both of them are denso brand, and sizes look similar, may be they fit each other :)

Hi my friend. I'm sorry about your car as a toyota fan. Toyotas has rarely electrical problems.
 
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fazil

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Thanks Ozgur.
Engine fault lamp is on while trying to start the engine, But it turned off after she started. It looks like the problem is the starter engine, not the ecu or fuel pump. I hope it doesn't cost too much.
 

Motogiro

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Thanks for the replies. I tested starter relay and it works good. Then i tired to just knock the starter motor with hammer, while my friend was cranking the engine and it started at the 3th try. I've read this knocking starting style in a forum or somewhere in internet. So it works :)

I guess the car needs to go to service soon for a starter disassembly. May be the brushes are bad. I'll write back soon.

Ps: Toyota Yaris is a small car as you guessed. I don't know if they were produced for US market. Very reliable and driver friendly but not young anymore, Almost 10-11 years old. Some wear and tear expected :(

If you can fix it with a hammer it ain't electrical Lol! Your right that it could be the brushes or debris between the brushed and commutator. I little TLC and you could be back up and running.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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+1^^^^ Brushes aren't hard to replace.

The Yaris is available in the states.

A genuine Toyota starter probably isn't cheap.

The aftermarket, rebuilt ones they sell over are much cheaper and usually hold up very well(generally with a longer warranty than Toyota):

Starter at AutoZone.com - Best Starter Products for Cars, Trucks & SUVS


And the Duralast is a very good brand name over here...
 
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VEGASRIDER

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When I first read the title of your thread, I automatically said it's probably the brushes on your starter. I recently had a similar issue with my FZ, took forever to trouble shoot what was wrong with the bike. Everyone said it was electrical, but after being able to start the bike from a push start, that was a clue to take a closer look at the brushes.
 

FinalImpact

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When I first read the title of your thread, I automatically said it's probably the brushes on your starter. I recently had a similar issue with my FZ, took forever to trouble shoot what was wrong with the bike. Everyone said it was electrical, but after being able to start the bike from a push start, that was a clue to take a closer look at the brushes.

Hmmm.... If we go back a few light years, the Ford Model "T" had a starter that was not electric too!

Blah
 
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