R6 Cams, Head gasket, headers, here we go

[I JET]

Quick update....
I performed Final impacts trigger wheel modification. Following his guide and measurements I advanced 5°. I also has some time to fabricate a muffler bracket. Made from 2mm stainless steel. Will have it powder coated black along with a few other brackets.

Next on the list is a new chain and set of tyres then she's ready to rumble.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'm surprised you still have the OEM brake lines on there...

Do you prefer the stock lines?


Also, what make are the ft caliper "safety wire" doo dad's? They look re-usable...

The lower part of the exhaust, is the bolt that mounts to the frame intentionally missing?
I'd be concerned of cracking with only two mounting points (head and new custom bracket).

 

[I JET]

The front lines are venhill braided. Rear is oem.
The lock wire is nothing special, you can make them yourself, stainless lock wire inside of clear rubber tubing with an R clip on each end.
The missing lower mount in not intentional, I plan on using the fz6 mount with the rubber bush but it needs some modifying to make it fit.

 

[FinalImpact]

Howdy....
So why does opening in the modified trigger wheel seem so huge?

Does it fit in these constraints?

How I calculated amount to file off locator Tab:

The OD of the trigger wheel is 2.475" (outer edge of humps)
Dia (inches) * Pie/360 = In/per degree
2.4750" * 3.14159 = circumference/360 = 0.021597" per degree (OUTSIDE EDGE).

To advance 5.0° from its original location the outside must advance:
0.021597"/deg * 4.0 degrees = 4.0 deg = 0.0863"
0.021597"/deg * 5.0 degrees = 5.0 deg = 0.1079"
^^ YOU NEED TO KNOW THIS TO VERIFY YOUR WORK! ^^ i.e. set the finished trigger on the crank (hold with bolt). Rotate CCW and measure to the engine case forming a 90°. Right down value. Rotate fully CW and measure to the case forming the same 90° angle. A dial indicator is best, but veneer calipers will work. The value should match your calculations above.

Calculate how much to file off the Tab:
To determine amount to remove from the Tab I broke it into 3 sections; the hole (ID1), the Slot (ID2) and the Tab (ID3) to determine the diameter to solve for. This is because we have no actual center or I'd to solve for the radius.

ID1 = 0.6305" dia HOLE } measure hole w/calipers "direct"
ID2 = 0.1050" X 2 SLOT } Total distance across open hole MINUS ID1. Multiply this by 2. "indirect"
ID3 = 0.1955" X 1 TAB } measure length of Tab "direct"
=======================
Dia = 1.036" to the center of the Tab and an equal distance opposite.
Meaning, it matters which section of the Tab we solve for, inner, middle or outer edge AND we are solving for a circle or the diameter ~ the red lines.
View attachment 65180


Apply formula:
1.036" * 3.1415/360° = 0.0090"

4.0° * 0.0090"/deg = 0.036"
4.5° * 0.0090"/deg = 0.040"
5.0° * 0.0090"/deg = 0.045"
6.0° * 0.0090"/deg = 0.054

NOTE: the OEM Locator Tab is 0.0197" wide uncut. File the leading edge to obtain final thickness.
4 deg adv: 0.197" - 0.036" = 0.161" final width 5 deg adv: 0.197" - 0.045" = 0.152" final width!

There ya go. Use a dial indicator to verify amount rotated. Weld up the unused portion once you meet your desired amount of rotation.
Measure OFTEN, REMOVE LITTLE and VERIFY amount of rotation!

** THIS IS A GUIDE ONLY! ** Results will vary!

Good luck!
Do acknowledge that I am NOT RESPONSIBLE for ANYTHING YOU DO TO YOUR VEHICLE!!!

 

[I JET]

Hi Randy, which opening are you referring to?

Wheel modified as bellow using the specs you listed unless I've misinterpreted something.

Locating nub was measured before modifying and matched your measurement of ''0.197" wide uncut'' The leading edge of the nub was filed until I measured a final thickness of 0.150''. The amount rotated was verified and also matched up with your measurement of 0.1079"

[MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION]

 

[FinalImpact]

That all sounds correct.

NOTE: the OEM Locator Tab is 0.0197" wide uncut. File the leading edge to obtain final thickness.
5 deg adv: 0.197" - 0.045" = 0.152" final width!

So when you had the trigger wheel on the crank its rotation amount matched the tab removal amount than you should be good. I think mine is at 6.5° and it hurts the idle quality but it pulls real well. Be sure to tun the colder plugs too. CR10E

Im looking forward to your impression.
What were the final cam degree values?

 

[I JET]

Thanks Randy, CR10E plugs were installed while putting the engine back together. Final cam values were 105/105 as recommended by my tuner for this engine.

First track day is February 2018 at a brand new track opening in western Sydney. I may take the bike on the 1/4 before then for a quick shake down.

Also looking at headlight options, I want to put this bike on the road next year. Would mean installing all lights, horn, side stand, mirrors etc.

 

[I JET]

This is the update we've all been waiting for. Dyno session done. Custom map created. Results are very positive.

Lets cut to the chase....after tuning, the bike made 106 hp at the wheel. :rockon:
A whopping 16 wheel hp over a stock FZ6. The tuner mentioned he usually see's this power figure from a 2003-2005 R6. That's great news, we're making R6 power now..... And to further put things in contrast, an FZ6 with an exhaust and custom map will typically make 94-96hp at the wheel.

I haven't had a chance to ride the bike yet......I did take it to Sydney dragway last month prior to getting the tune done. It had a massive flat spot down low around 4,000 rpm. It would break up under wide open throttle. If you cruised past this point under light throttle then opened the throttle wide it revved clean and nice all the way to red line. Power wise it just felt like it had more power everywhere. With the fz6 cams I remember having to wait until around 9,000rpm before anything exciting started to happen...then i also remember it tapered off towards redline, now there is no waiting, it pulls everywhere and keeps pulling all the way to the limiter. I'm very very keen to try the bike out now with the custom map. I'll probably head back to Sydney dragway next week.

Here's a quick video. Sorry that I couldn't get any closer.

[video=vimeo;256012005]https://vimeo.com/256012005[/video]
https://vimeo.com/256012005

The baseline run before tuning, it still made 103whp, this was with a generic pc3 map from the powercommander website. But you can see the massive dip in the torque around 4,000rpm. The tuner spent around 3 hours building the custom map.

And here is my final run layed against a map from a tuned FZ6 CUP bike, running standard cams.

And finally here is a run showing my bike going through the gears. Making over 100whp in first gear and it only gets better after that.

Peek torque is pretty similar to the tuned FZ6. The power and torque difference between 9,000-14,000 is really where it all happens..... May not be so important on the street but on a race track this is where you spend most of your time.

 

[Gary in NJ]

That is a nice smooth, and flat, torque curve.

 

[FinalImpact]

SWEET!!!!!! Man I am happy for you! Good to see that curve flatten out from the map alone!

Very impressive!! Have you had a chance for a good 3rd gear pull? Its where they actually added some ignition advance. If it had it in 1st and 2nd, it would be way better!

Be safe!

 

[fazil]

Did you use a power commander to adjust air/fuel ratios?
Other than technical info, how does it feel on the road?

 

[I JET]

SWEET!!!!!! Man I am happy for you! Good to see that curve flatten out from the map alone!

Very impressive!! Have you had a chance for a good 3rd gear pull? Its where they actually added some ignition advance. If it had it in 1st and 2nd, it would be way better!

Be safe!

Thanks Randy. I haven't ridden the bike yet since the tune. Very eager to though. Maybe this Wednesday at the drags but I really wanna take my MV Rivale this time. decisions decisions.

Did you use a power commander to adjust air/fuel ratios?
Other than technical info, how does it feel on the road?

Hi mate. I had a pc3 installed. Bike was tunned on a mainline dyno with dynojet software. I haven't tried it since the tune. I tried it before though, it felt like it had more power across the whole rev range. I'll be sure to update this thread after I get a chance to ride it.

 

[I JET]

Hi guys, quick update. Decided to get this bike registered so I can get some more use out of it. Also installed a pc3 quick shift sensor which is working very nicely. The bike goes pretty well now but like any 600 you have to keep it in the right rev range...which on this is 8000-14000. Still experimenting with gear ratios. I started off with my short circuit gearing 14/46 but it was too short for the highway and the fast back roads i frequent. I changed to the long circuit gearing 16/48 and road it this way for the first time today. While it generally feels much better all round with this gearing, it's definitely lost a bit of zing in 2nd gear out of the slower corners. Still lifts up the front wheel in first gear under power and will stay in the air through 2nd and 3rd using the quick shifter. It does feel a little on the tall side though, I may look into going up 1 more tooth on the rear 16/49. I'll get a video up for you guys soon. Will have to dust of the old gopro....Oh and i still need to re-fit my belly pan. I haven't seen it on the bike yet with all the road gear.

 

[OG MayMay]

If youÂ’re gonna do any custom head work, the intake passage actually benefits from a controlled rough surface. Fuel tends to condensate on smooth surfaces, so uniform pitting or surface texture allows the air/fuel mixture to better atomize and have smoother, swirling flow rather than turbulent unorganized flow . Some people say that smoothing the exhaust passage will allow for better flow, however, if you look at aircraft wing aluminum, itÂ’s not shiny smooth. The surface texture causes the air to swirl in a more uniformed fashion. On cars, people have been enlarging intake and exhaust ports for years for better flow, but if you look at moto gp ports, the passages have actually gotten smaller, this, im assuming allows for better torque and Venturi effect, thus increasing the speed of the air coming in?? Head work on modern 4 bangers is finicky. Any metal taken off should be sent out to a professional machine shop with years of experience and a flowbench. The problem is that flow benches use a constant air velocity compared to the variable volicity of a gasoline engine. This can make it hard to pin point where the power gains will be in the rpm range.

 

[FinalImpact]

Well, the cams are in, degreed, clearances set, its back together and running and it sounds great, purrs like a kitten. I set the manual tensioner by measuring the wear mark on the stock hydraulic tensioner...it sounds better then before, no chain rattle, no overtightened wurring noises...just spot on.

One website i used alot to wrap my head around cam degreeing was this one:
Cam Degreeing

For those interested, these are the measurements taken with the R6 cams installed using the R6 cam gears, set to the standard timing marks. (Before degreeing)

All measurements taken at 1mm lift.

Intake Valve open = 16° BTDC
Intake Valve closed = 52° ABDC
(52 - 16) + 180 / 2 =
108 ILC

Exhaust valve open = 44° BBDC
Exhaust valve close = 15° ATDC
(44 - 15) + 180 / 2 =
104.5 ELC

A bit off what I was expecting but it also makes sense why a member on here had a massive dead spot between 6-7k rpm after doing the cam swap using standard marks and not degreeing. As a reference i used the following link for the 2004 R6 engine specs. Going off this info the standard R6 cam timing is 105 ILC / 106 ELC.
Specifications: 2004 Yamaha YZF-R6

I confirmed this with my tuner. After discussions he suggested the best numbers for cam timing is 105/105. This in his opinion gave the best performance across the rev range for the 03-05 r6 engine. And basically it was up to me If I wanted to try anything different. So taking his advice I set the cams to 105/105. I'll experiment a little in the future but for now i want the thing running and tuned.

So the process of elongating the cam gear mounting holes was quick and easy. I used a dremel with a small stone bit and checked the amount removed using digital verniers as I was going.

Honestly the hardest part was accurately setting the dial indicator on the valve bucket. It took quite a while to get that right and reading consistent numbers.

So.....pretty happy with how well it starts, runs and sounds. Gonna give myself a rest this week. Next week I'll remove the side cover again and perform the ignition timing advance mod. Thanks Final impact.

Refresh me - did you say that you matched the port to the TB adapter to remove the material shown here?

 

[I JET]

Hi Randy,

No port matching or smoothing was done on intake or exhaust. I had all intentions of spending some time on this but at the time I had everything pulled apart it was decided to get the engine back together and prove the R6 cams would be successful. I'm very happy with the numbers the bike made. I've done around 1200 kms with this set up now. Its a real screamer of a little bike, I have no problem keeping up with 1000cc bikes now even in the faster flowing corners, but you do have to keep it up in the high revs for sure. I'm now looking into aftermarket screen options because the wind blast at high speeds is quite tiresome.

 

[FinalImpact]

Thanks for the update!
Its tempting to do it. Sadly I know the ecu and ignition map is killing more than we know.

That said the compression bump and cams can't hurt.
So how does it pull from a stop? You feel any flat spot now?

I love the 3rd gear pull it has now. It just sings.
I should dyno and do the cams, gasket, and port match just for fun!

Be safe man....

 

[I JET]

Hi Randy, it pulls really hard from a stand still, no flat spot at all. The tuner did a great job to smooth everything out, the off on throttle transition is really nice. I'm so glad I did the cam swap, it's like riding a street fighter R6. It really screams.

 

[FinalImpact]

I'm happy someone put all the pieces together, cams, compression, timing (although barbaric compared to ideal) & [no shame intended there btw], fueling, exhaust, suspension.... Good Job!
Pretty, responsive, nimble flickable little bikes!

Any chance you've thrown it on the scales to weigh it as is???

You know there is a lad in area who has remapped his fz6r correcting the ignition map. I may reach out and see if he's still tinkering. I'll let you know as fixing this will remove the oem imposed limits allowing 1st and 2nd gear to throw you right on your lid!
On that note - Be safe!

 

[I JET]

I've never weighed this bike, really interested to know where it's at though. It must be heavily front end bias now since going to the side exit R6 exhaust and the addition of the headlight, horn ect. I'm still running the 1 piece fiberglass race tail, in compassion to the stock seat and tail unit is super duper light weight. I've been meaning to buy a set of mechanical bathroom scales to keep in the garage. I will do that and get back to you. I'm keen to weigh my other bikes as well.

Mate that would be awesome if we could get around the factory timing retard in the lower gears. It's already a little screamer, that would be the icing on the cake for sure.