Rep points for "potting soil" LMAO.... Sorry tho! Looks like you'll know the truth soon!
Be careful with the gas....
Be careful with the gas....
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Lets call it Working under Pressure!! :thumbup:
- Is it fair to say in your example that lets say, 15,000 PSI may have been applied, but due to decreased density of the media (air) the larger pistons did not move with the same force that was applied because the media compressed! But it still has 15,000 PSI? YES??!?! But the "intended" work was not done when the air molecules got cozy! Enlighten me!
I've never done the math on brake pressure. It has all those lever angles and multipliers...
Maybe I read this from another post, but I coulda swore I saw something about it shoots gas out. A plugged screen doesn't do that well. Most behave more like a trickle fountain if the inlet is occluded.
Is it me or is the tank not really that rusty on the surface!?? As if that sludge or "soil like substance" **may have been** pumped in there??
- And if not mistaken, you have a full head of water in there too! :don'tknow::don'tknow: There looks to be separation of fluids....
What I am saying is that if we use the example of 1,500 psi in a line with a fluid when we apply the mechanical pressure we expect the designed pressure to be produced. If air is introduced in the line the fluid pressure psi for the same amount or equal mechanical pressure will be under the 1,500 psi. It does not reach the designed pressure and will be less psi. the more air the less intended pressure.
My post was to say that there might be less of a psi reading if there was air in the output side of the pump. If the inlet is partially occluded, passing some fluid and the pump itself is in good working order we should see the intended psi (without air) because we are not using any volume.
To summarize: The test I was referring to was for pressure coming from the pump. I would just insure there is no air in the fuel line that the gauge is on. Yes, If completely blocked on the pump inlet the output psi will be low.
Did you remove the PR and push it off is seat? All it takes is a tiny fleck of crap to keep it from sealing and the pressure just leaks.... Wipe seal with Q-tip if need be.
You seem to be on it, so you see the the pump need not be in the tank to do its work. BUT I WOULD NOT USE GAS FOR TESTING!!! You could in fact use water.
Plug the outlet of the PR and and if there are no other obstructions in the path of the pumps inlet to Outlet, it should build 36PSI.
Another option is to remove the pump from the housing and attach gauge directly to it. With the air out of the pumps body, it should stall around 60 PSI or higher.
Was that in fact water in the tank??
Obviously your seeing all the clips that allow the Assembly to come apart, were you able to clean the pickup screen and get it looking ok? Blow out all the passages in the pumps housing?
Twice a year i run Chevron Techron fuel cleaner through, mainly before winter to get any moisture out. Not knowing what that is, you deff need some kind of cleaner. Just dont exceed the recommended dosage as some derate the octane and cause detonation plus its hard on some of the materials. Perhaps a lifetime supply if foul play is suspect? :shakehead:
Whats your Best guess, did you buy it this way?
No water it was layers per say of sediment and dirt.
ill have it back all apart tonight. i washed the pr and blew it out multiple times at well above 40 psi..it was opening. ill test the pump directly when im off
I didn't have a good way to test that just a at 35 psi. I'm going to test the fuel pump alone tonight. I may just order a whole new fuel pump and FPR offline they only seem to be about $40.
I appreciate everyones help! Im on father duty today so once my minime goes down for a nap I can slip out to the garage to pull the fuel pump again. thinking a small bucket of water should allow me test just the pump externally from the housing and see how shes doing.
So its current location is in the tank? Does that mean you had fresh gas in it and tried to fire engine?
Ya, a bucket and nonflammable liquid should be fine for short test runs. Drag a battery over and connect. :thumbup:
As posted much earlier, once you get that pump hopefully working up to pressure (or a new one), I would be flushing the fuel rail, etc, once you get that far.
Before you try to crank to start..