Tailgate
Senior Member
If you would like to read an in-depth---and interesting---analysis of breaking in a motorcycle engine (or any 4 stroke) click this link: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
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CrazyBiker
Superbike Champion
The best resource for motorcycles on the net. New Motorcycle Check list, Break in
What brand do you run now mate?
although oil will still lubricate for a very very long time, as it heats up and cools over time it looses it's viscosity which is considered the breakdown. when the viscosity is gone it will not stick to the parts that it is lubricating as well and therefore cause more metal on metal starts and less oil on the parts at any given time. The recommended oil change intervals on the bottle is the best indicator as to when the particular oil will lose enough of it's viscosity to become significantly less effective.
urbanj
Junior Member
for break in I change the filter at 200mi and then only if it looks like its needed up to 600mi. If you are seeing metal in your oil the filter is not doing its job.
the pure one filters are rated 99.8% @ 30 microns and 99.2% @ 20 microns
a micron is 0.000039 inches.
a human hair is 100microns
so if you can see tiny metal flakes the filter is bypassing and should be changed.
I change the filter at half intervals to the oil. motor oil going black is a good thing but on a newer good running engine its bad. as motors wear in the not so good way, there is more blow-by and fuel dilution among other things. many short trips will allow the oil to accumulate moisture which leads to corrosion and fuel dilution will thin out the oil leading to consumption.
if you wait for the oil to go black like diesel oil then id say it too long. in most well maintained engines it only goes a brownish colour. the biggest things about oil is its additive package. the amount left is something that you can not tell by just looking at it.
with motorcycles the oil also lubricates the transmission and clutches. the shearing in the trans puts an extra strain on the oils anti shear additives.
so i just follow factory recommendations with a filter change halfway between that. and the only real way to know the conditions is by an UOA.
the pure one filters are rated 99.8% @ 30 microns and 99.2% @ 20 microns
a micron is 0.000039 inches.
a human hair is 100microns
so if you can see tiny metal flakes the filter is bypassing and should be changed.
I change the filter at half intervals to the oil. motor oil going black is a good thing but on a newer good running engine its bad. as motors wear in the not so good way, there is more blow-by and fuel dilution among other things. many short trips will allow the oil to accumulate moisture which leads to corrosion and fuel dilution will thin out the oil leading to consumption.
if you wait for the oil to go black like diesel oil then id say it too long. in most well maintained engines it only goes a brownish colour. the biggest things about oil is its additive package. the amount left is something that you can not tell by just looking at it.
with motorcycles the oil also lubricates the transmission and clutches. the shearing in the trans puts an extra strain on the oils anti shear additives.
so i just follow factory recommendations with a filter change halfway between that. and the only real way to know the conditions is by an UOA.
What oil?
I have tried the search and came up dry (pun intended). So if there is a oil thread, let me know . What oil do you use? What ones have you tried and did not like?
I am thinking of using Repsol synthetic 10w-40 once the break in is done, hopefully around 1000 miles or so. I have used Repsol and Motul in the past and like both, as shifting becomes smooth and buttery. And the UOA's on both of those oils were good at 6000 mile OCI's. I have also used Rotella T 15w-40 and Rotella T Syn 5w-40 with good results also.
So is there a general consensus on oils? I am not looking at syn v. non syn, but what you use and why. I have been in oil threads before so lets try and keep this relatively on topic, everyone has a different choice and specific reasons for that choice, and that is what I am looking for.
I have tried the search and came up dry (pun intended). So if there is a oil thread, let me know . What oil do you use? What ones have you tried and did not like?
I am thinking of using Repsol synthetic 10w-40 once the break in is done, hopefully around 1000 miles or so. I have used Repsol and Motul in the past and like both, as shifting becomes smooth and buttery. And the UOA's on both of those oils were good at 6000 mile OCI's. I have also used Rotella T 15w-40 and Rotella T Syn 5w-40 with good results also.
So is there a general consensus on oils? I am not looking at syn v. non syn, but what you use and why. I have been in oil threads before so lets try and keep this relatively on topic, everyone has a different choice and specific reasons for that choice, and that is what I am looking for.
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dark_isz
rejected liberal
We've had a few "Oil Threads" so far:
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/844-sorry-another-oil-thread.html
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/224-what-best-oil.html
Personally, I use Rotella Synthetic and the Pure One filter.
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/844-sorry-another-oil-thread.html
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/224-what-best-oil.html
Personally, I use Rotella Synthetic and the Pure One filter.
DefyInertia
Former '04 FZ6 Rider
I know that you may be considering the use of synthetic oil in your bikes. But you really should Very cautious of synthetic oil! It can do terrible things both to you, and to your bike. Synthetic oil will not only leak out of your engine faster than you can put it in, but it will also cause your oil filter to clog and implode, dumping debris and dirt into your lubrication system. It also will make every part of your bike permanently slippery because of its linear molecular chain dispersion action.
Then it will leak onto your kickstand causing it to retract automatically and without warning, dropping your bike flat on the rocky ground! But that's not all . . . . Synthetic oil will round off your gears and spin your bearings. Synthetic oil will also splatter onto your seat causing your girlfriend to fall off in the apex of a turn and then she will never ride with, or sleep with, you again. Synthetic oil coats your oil sight window with a whitish pro-emulsification additive that is both non-removable and highly corrosive. Synthetic oil will completely leak out onto the ground overnight, force your favorite dog to drink it at gunpoint, and he will then die a slow horrible writhing death.
Synthetic oil will wear out your tires and make your battery leak. It will give you the desperate need to urinate after you put your full leathers on and then jam all your zippers shut. Synthetic oil will contaminate your gasoline causing your bike to stall on railroad tracks and accelerate uncontrollably near police cars. Synthetic oil will make it rain during rallies and on every weekend. It will causing your cam drive to jump teeth and break your valves to bits. Synthetic oil chemically weakens desmodromic valves and causes the clearances to change every sixteen miles. Then it melts the black soles of your riding boots night before you walk across your new carpeting.
While riding past groups of attractive women it will cause both of your handlebar grips to slip off at the same time so you smash your windscreen with the bridge of your nose. It also causes your swingarm to crack, your studs to break, and your rotors to warp. Synthetic oil then voids your warranty by changing your odometer reading to 55,555 overnight. It also dries out your wet clutch and wets your dryclutch. It makes your clutch cable or slave cylinder seal fail in the heaviest traffic on the hottest day of the year while putting an angry wasp in your helmet for good measure.
Synthetic oil hides your 13mm socket and puts superglue on your earplugs. Synthetic oil will scratch your face shield and make your gloves shrink two sizes the night before track day. Synthetic oil will then steal your neutral and sell it for $1.25.
So let's be careful out there!
Then it will leak onto your kickstand causing it to retract automatically and without warning, dropping your bike flat on the rocky ground! But that's not all . . . . Synthetic oil will round off your gears and spin your bearings. Synthetic oil will also splatter onto your seat causing your girlfriend to fall off in the apex of a turn and then she will never ride with, or sleep with, you again. Synthetic oil coats your oil sight window with a whitish pro-emulsification additive that is both non-removable and highly corrosive. Synthetic oil will completely leak out onto the ground overnight, force your favorite dog to drink it at gunpoint, and he will then die a slow horrible writhing death.
Synthetic oil will wear out your tires and make your battery leak. It will give you the desperate need to urinate after you put your full leathers on and then jam all your zippers shut. Synthetic oil will contaminate your gasoline causing your bike to stall on railroad tracks and accelerate uncontrollably near police cars. Synthetic oil will make it rain during rallies and on every weekend. It will causing your cam drive to jump teeth and break your valves to bits. Synthetic oil chemically weakens desmodromic valves and causes the clearances to change every sixteen miles. Then it melts the black soles of your riding boots night before you walk across your new carpeting.
While riding past groups of attractive women it will cause both of your handlebar grips to slip off at the same time so you smash your windscreen with the bridge of your nose. It also causes your swingarm to crack, your studs to break, and your rotors to warp. Synthetic oil then voids your warranty by changing your odometer reading to 55,555 overnight. It also dries out your wet clutch and wets your dryclutch. It makes your clutch cable or slave cylinder seal fail in the heaviest traffic on the hottest day of the year while putting an angry wasp in your helmet for good measure.
Synthetic oil hides your 13mm socket and puts superglue on your earplugs. Synthetic oil will scratch your face shield and make your gloves shrink two sizes the night before track day. Synthetic oil will then steal your neutral and sell it for $1.25.
So let's be careful out there!
madmanmaigret
Mad like crazy not angry
I just tried some castrol rts or rps (i cant remeber) I was starting to get some gear noise so i figured i would do an oil change (2000 miles, did one at 500 and one at 1000) the first two times i used castrol activo (spelling) the RTS/RPS was reddish in color and i was scared i got power steering fluid! but they asured me that was its color.(its semi-syn) I chose it because it was on sale, brand name, reccomended by the hot girl at cycle gear, and something i hadn't tried. So far (maybe 250 miles) I like it and shifting is smoother and no more noise.
madmanmaigret
Mad like crazy not angry
^^ wow! hatin on syn, Defy? I was told something similar (not that, uh..... indepth) about synthetic. It is really thin and not nessesary for a street bike. Maybe for a factory race team who wants every last pony at expense of a new motor/rebuild. I am fine with semi, and i believe yamalube is a semi-syn. < correct me if i'm wrong.
also reading others research I have come to the conclusion that Mobil 1 oil filters are one of the best you can buy. but i think if you change the filter every oil change (unlike the manual says) you'll be fine with a cheaper alternative. (ie, pure one is very good for the money)
also reading others research I have come to the conclusion that Mobil 1 oil filters are one of the best you can buy. but i think if you change the filter every oil change (unlike the manual says) you'll be fine with a cheaper alternative. (ie, pure one is very good for the money)
dark_isz
rejected liberal
Wow, funny!! I have never had Synthetic oil do any of those things!! I did accuse my CX500 of selling gasoline at night though, but it turned out to be leaky float bowl gaskets. Funniest post I have seen in a while.
madmanmaigret
Mad like crazy not angry
a whole forum of comedians :thumbup:
Holy Oil Stealing Batman!
and don't forget undoing your tie downs and your bike tumbles off the trailer into traffic and 70mph...black-on-black
Junior Member
in all honesty, i run amsoil and it is the s***. runs smoother and more power. full synthetic
black-on-black
Junior Member
your warning was funny though
Ok, that is what I was looking for, very informative. Is the PureOne filter the PL14610? I really do not want to pay $12 for the Yamaha filter. I have used synthetics in the past, no problems, ever. I use German Castrol 0w-30 and a PureOne filter in my car, so if the FZ6 uses the PL14610, then my car and bike will use the same filter. Thanks!!
Dude, $12.00 is a deal, my local stealership charged me $17.95! I bought ONE filter and three quarts of regular Honda oil and it was a freaking $37.XX! I wasn't really paying attention because the cash register girl had a super tight tee shirt on, I just handed her my CC and mumbled, "Okay...", as I was transfixed by her. This place has about 6 to 7 people who work in parts, 4 of which are great looks girls who know nothing about motorcycles. They just sit there and bat their eyes at you. Needless to say, I am never going back there.
Oh crap! I wonder it the Honda oil will make my Yamaha engine melt?!?!?!
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