MarinaFazer
Wonderbread
- Joined
- May 8, 2008
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- 2,259
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- 19
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- Location
- Santa Monica, California
Re: changing oil.
do a search for "service manual" and you'll find it.
do a search for "service manual" and you'll find it.
- Status
Mattberkshire
Super Member
Re: changing oil.
2 points, from experience:
The oil filter is a bastard to get off. Took me an hour - broke the tool I had bought (I then made one from a fabric strap cut from an old rucsac and an adjustable spanner) and grazed my knuckles several times
Don't, repeat don't do what I did and overtighten the drain plug when you put it back in. The sump is made from an alloy/digestive biscuit compound which will crack if you so much as look at it funny
2 points, from experience:
The oil filter is a bastard to get off. Took me an hour - broke the tool I had bought (I then made one from a fabric strap cut from an old rucsac and an adjustable spanner) and grazed my knuckles several times
Don't, repeat don't do what I did and overtighten the drain plug when you put it back in. The sump is made from an alloy/digestive biscuit compound which will crack if you so much as look at it funny
MarinaFazer
Wonderbread
- Joined
- May 8, 2008
- Messages
- 2,259
- Reaction score
- 19
- Points
- 0
- Location
- Santa Monica, California
Re: changing oil.
use a torque wrench ($30 at Sears or hardware store). Also, the filter shouldn't be on that tight either...less torque than the drain bolt.
You can use a pair of large expanding pliers to undo the old filter (I did that once) but it does mark it up if you use it to tighten so don't do that.
use a torque wrench ($30 at Sears or hardware store). Also, the filter shouldn't be on that tight either...less torque than the drain bolt.
You can use a pair of large expanding pliers to undo the old filter (I did that once) but it does mark it up if you use it to tighten so don't do that.
SovietRobot
Scourge Of Humanity
Re: changing oil.
1. Drain the oil while on the side stand, NOT on the center stand.
2. Don't change it on a cold engine, but don't change it on a hot engine either. Heat causes the drain bolt to swell, and if you force it loose you'll strip or break something. About 10-15 minutes after shut down works good.
3. Don't use torque wrenches
4. Don't overtighten anything
I used mobil 10w40 4stroke motorcycle oil, and a K&N filter, and no problems.
1. Drain the oil while on the side stand, NOT on the center stand.
2. Don't change it on a cold engine, but don't change it on a hot engine either. Heat causes the drain bolt to swell, and if you force it loose you'll strip or break something. About 10-15 minutes after shut down works good.
3. Don't use torque wrenches
4. Don't overtighten anything
I used mobil 10w40 4stroke motorcycle oil, and a K&N filter, and no problems.
FZyLarry
No power slides for me
Re: changing oil.
I would caution against using a torque wrench on the drain plug. Several of the threads I have seen that are about folks cracking the oil pan came from people who tried to torque the plug to factory specs with a torque wrench. The manual says 31 lb/ft for the drain bolt. My guess is that value would be fine for a bolt in a good chunk of aluminum, however the plug goes into a thin casting with the seam right down the middle of the drain hole (bit of a poor design in my opinion)
It's an easy chore, just be careful with the wrenches :rockon:
I would caution against using a torque wrench on the drain plug. Several of the threads I have seen that are about folks cracking the oil pan came from people who tried to torque the plug to factory specs with a torque wrench. The manual says 31 lb/ft for the drain bolt. My guess is that value would be fine for a bolt in a good chunk of aluminum, however the plug goes into a thin casting with the seam right down the middle of the drain hole (bit of a poor design in my opinion)
It's an easy chore, just be careful with the wrenches :rockon:
steveindenmark
Older Member
Re: changing oil.
Here is the best link of how to change the oil on an FZ6.
It is simple if you follow these steps and pics.
http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/1573-how-do-oil-change.html#post11887
Steve
Here is the best link of how to change the oil on an FZ6.
It is simple if you follow these steps and pics.
http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/1573-how-do-oil-change.html#post11887
Steve
multiplicity
Junior Member
Re: changing oil.
weird, I do a search for oil and get no hits? What?
weird, I do a search for oil and get no hits? What?
multiplicity
Junior Member
Re: changing oil.
OK, don'y know what I was doing wrong, but got the search thing working. but I just can't find that pictorial oil change thread by biker dude? Can anyone put a link to it here for me please?
OK, don'y know what I was doing wrong, but got the search thing working. but I just can't find that pictorial oil change thread by biker dude? Can anyone put a link to it here for me please?
multiplicity
Junior Member
Re: changing oil.
Dear God, I'm such a boton (Scottish word for prick!) I've just seen a link above all my posts with a great pictorial on it. OK Just ignore me now.
Cheers
Dear God, I'm such a boton (Scottish word for prick!) I've just seen a link above all my posts with a great pictorial on it. OK Just ignore me now.
Cheers
FZyLarry
No power slides for me
Re: changing oil.
We have a ton of Brits at work (some Scotts too). How do you pronounce boton (nothing like a good derogatory word to impress people) :Flash:
We have a ton of Brits at work (some Scotts too). How do you pronounce boton (nothing like a good derogatory word to impress people) :Flash:
Red Wazp
Super Member
Re: changing oil.
Just use oil designed for motorcycles,10-40 in cooler weather or 20-50 in the summer.I use 20-50 Honda syn blend year round. Everybody knows a Yamaha is faster with Honda oil.
As long as you change it and filter every 4kmiles or sooner you are good to go!
Just use oil designed for motorcycles,10-40 in cooler weather or 20-50 in the summer.I use 20-50 Honda syn blend year round. Everybody knows a Yamaha is faster with Honda oil.
As long as you change it and filter every 4kmiles or sooner you are good to go!
Re: changing oil.
When I paid for my bike at the shop, I tried to get the dealer to throw in a free oil change to get rid of the break-in oil and they told me NO it would cost me 45 DOLLARS!!!!!! I was kinda put out by that so I have never been back to the store. I paid 6500 bucks cash and they wouldnt even throw in some oil and a filter. So I did it myself, the filter was 16 bucks (at the only shop in town) so they kinda had me over the barrel. Whatever.....
When I paid for my bike at the shop, I tried to get the dealer to throw in a free oil change to get rid of the break-in oil and they told me NO it would cost me 45 DOLLARS!!!!!!
I was kinda put out by that so I have never been back to the store. I paid 6500 bucks cash and they wouldnt even throw in some oil and a filter. So I did it myself, the filter was 16 bucks (at the only shop in town) so they kinda had me over the barrel. Whatever.....
FZyLarry
No power slides for me
Re: changing oil.
If you don't have an issue with running a non-OEM filter, you can get one for a lot less than $16 (some folks won't run anything other than OEM - not sure why) I run the Pureolator Pure One PL14610 and get them for around $4
If you don't have an issue with running a non-OEM filter, you can get one for a lot less than $16 (some folks won't run anything other than OEM - not sure why
) I run the Pureolator Pure One PL14610 and get them for around $4urbanj
Junior Member
Re: changing oil.
For everyone that isn't good with a wrench and doesn't know what certain values feel like, you SHOULD use a torque wrench. The problem may be that people don't know how to use one and/or use one that isn't for the right application or isn't calibrated right. if you have a wrench that goes from say 50-250 lbs ft. you do not want to use that wrench to torque something to 50lbs ft.
For everyone that isn't good with a wrench and doesn't know what certain values feel like, you SHOULD use a torque wrench. The problem may be that people don't know how to use one and/or use one that isn't for the right application or isn't calibrated right. if you have a wrench that goes from say 50-250 lbs ft. you do not want to use that wrench to torque something to 50lbs ft.
multiplicity
Junior Member
Re: changing oil.
The wod Boton won't make sense to them unless their from Glasgow. And the pronunciation...erm... It rhymes with rotten and is spoken exactly as it's spelt.
CHeers
The wod Boton won't make sense to them unless their from Glasgow. And the pronunciation...erm... It rhymes with rotten and is spoken exactly as it's spelt.
CHeers
steveindenmark
Older Member
Re: changing oil.
Which is why I say not to use one for changing your oil. Just using a small hand socket set reduces the chances of snapping something off using a torque wrench if you do not know how to use one.
I have never used a torque wrench on a car or bike for changing oil. I have never snapped anything or had anything come loose...and I am 50 so must have done hundreds of oil changes by now.
Snapping things makes simple jobs a real PITA, and the amount of times you read of someone on here doing just that through the course of the season just enforces my thought of not using a torque wrench if you don`t need to.
It is just my opinion.
Steve
Which is why I say not to use one for changing your oil. Just using a small hand socket set reduces the chances of snapping something off using a torque wrench if you do not know how to use one.
I have never used a torque wrench on a car or bike for changing oil. I have never snapped anything or had anything come loose...and I am 50 so must have done hundreds of oil changes by now.
Snapping things makes simple jobs a real PITA, and the amount of times you read of someone on here doing just that through the course of the season just enforces my thought of not using a torque wrench if you don`t need to.
It is just my opinion.
Steve
ReblTeen84
Übernerd
Re: changing oil.
First time I changed the oil on the bike, the bolt was so tight i thought it had broken off when it finally came loose because of the sound it made. When I put it back in, didn't use a torque wrench, just a regular socket and tightened it just past the point of having to put a little effort into tightening. Tight enough to keep it in, loose enough to where i hope i don't break it on the way back out in the spring.
First time I changed the oil on the bike, the bolt was so tight i thought it had broken off when it finally came loose because of the sound it made. When I put it back in, didn't use a torque wrench, just a regular socket and tightened it just past the point of having to put a little effort into tightening. Tight enough to keep it in, loose enough to where i hope i don't break it on the way back out in the spring.
kamao
Member
Re: changing oil.
+1 for the K&N oil filter, it made life a whole lot easier for me putting everything back in
I changed my oil for the first time a few months back, and am so glad I went through the learning experience. Once you have done it once, you'll be so happy not to be paying for it And yes, I broke the oil filter removal tool & spilt oil on the drive (I can still see that patch mocking me).
As a side note, I didn't bother with the torque wrench after hearing some of the horror stories, just did it up 'hand tight' (plug + filter) and have had no problems
+1 for the K&N oil filter, it made life a whole lot easier for me putting everything back in
I changed my oil for the first time a few months back, and am so glad I went through the learning experience. Once you have done it once, you'll be so happy not to be paying for it
And yes, I broke the oil filter removal tool & spilt oil on the drive (I can still see that patch mocking me). As a side note, I didn't bother with the torque wrench after hearing some of the horror stories, just did it up 'hand tight' (plug + filter) and have had no problems
alanrim
Junior Member
Re: changing oil.
One tip I don't see often is one I learnt years ago when working on old bikes and cars, but is still useful today.
Before refitting the drain plug use some plumbers PTFE tape around the thread. This stuff is pence for a roll that will probably last a life time.
Apply the tape on the bolt at the head end to make sure none gets in the sump. It does a few things.
Fills the thread to prevent oil seeping down the thread. Acts a bit like the nylon locking nuts, so helps keep the bolt in, plus makes removal easier. Gently tighten the bolt and you will have a good seal, so less risk of a cracked sump.
One tip I don't see often is one I learnt years ago when working on old bikes and cars, but is still useful today.
Before refitting the drain plug use some plumbers PTFE tape around the thread. This stuff is pence for a roll that will probably last a life time.
Apply the tape on the bolt at the head end to make sure none gets in the sump. It does a few things.
Fills the thread to prevent oil seeping down the thread. Acts a bit like the nylon locking nuts, so helps keep the bolt in, plus makes removal easier. Gently tighten the bolt and you will have a good seal, so less risk of a cracked sump.
07FZ6
Junior Member
Another OIL question
I read through the other posts, and have been considering the Rotella full synthetic 5w40. I mentioned this to a guy at my local yamaha parts shop, and he cursed me up and down and said I would be replacing the clutch every 3 months because there is no additive for the wet clutch system. He claims that you CANNOT get away with using anything that isnt branded for motorcycle use with the MA symbol on the back or it will mess with your clutch. Was he just trying to sell me a gallon of oil?
Another parts guy I have known for years (and I trust) told me a few years back that full synthetic can sometimes cause the clutch to slip because it is TOO SLICK of an oil.... Great for cars, bad for bikes.
My bike only has 2500 miles on it, and I want to start using a great oil. I can buy the gallon of non-syn Yamalube for cheaper than the gallon of full-syn Rotella
What have you guys who use Rotella, Mobil, or other car&truck oils found? Do you notice any difference in clutch operation? Any better or worse results since the switch, and who has the most miles on their bike that uses non motorcycle branded oil?
I read through the other posts, and have been considering the Rotella full synthetic 5w40. I mentioned this to a guy at my local yamaha parts shop, and he cursed me up and down and said I would be replacing the clutch every 3 months because there is no additive for the wet clutch system. He claims that you CANNOT get away with using anything that isnt branded for motorcycle use with the MA symbol on the back or it will mess with your clutch. Was he just trying to sell me a gallon of oil?
Another parts guy I have known for years (and I trust) told me a few years back that full synthetic can sometimes cause the clutch to slip because it is TOO SLICK of an oil.... Great for cars, bad for bikes.
My bike only has 2500 miles on it, and I want to start using a great oil. I can buy the gallon of non-syn Yamalube for cheaper than the gallon of full-syn Rotella
What have you guys who use Rotella, Mobil, or other car&truck oils found? Do you notice any difference in clutch operation? Any better or worse results since the switch, and who has the most miles on their bike that uses non motorcycle branded oil?
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