2006 Over Heating

nsikes

Junior Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2009
Messages
47
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Iowa
Visit site
I tried searching for anything about overheating bikes, but couldn't find anything.

I was out riding today. I only rode 10 miles (just had to drop a movie off) and when I came home and parked her in the garage I noticed coolant pissing on the garage floor.

The fan was running when I shut her off, so I know that works.

It was only 80 degrees here, and I was running in 3rd @ ~10K rpm just goofing off on the way home.

Any ideas on what would cause this?? I turned the key back on to see the temp and it was 3 bars from the TOP!!!

I haven't had any other troubles with this bike... But she is my first water cooled so maybe this is normal.
 
It appears to be coming from the overflow tube. I couldn't find any leaking anywhere else, and if I am looking at the right reservoir, it appears empty now...
 
I know on my 2007 the temp will climb 15 to 20 degrees after the bike has been shut off just as a fact of the heat in the motor is no longer being alowed to circulate in the coolant
 
It had to have been pissing it out the overflow as I was riding. I noticed it immediately after taking my helmet and jacket off.

I know beyond a doubt that it was not on the floor prior to riding into the garage...
 
It appeared to be adequately full, but I am not positive. I bought the bike 6 weeks ago, so I am not sure of the age of the coolant.

I guess I should change it, any other recommendations?? How do I check the thermostat?
 
To check the thermostat, you'll need to remove it from the bike. Then drop it into a pan of boiling water and it should open up. When you pull it out of the water and let it cool, it'll close again.

It's located underneath the airbox, so you'll have to do some work to get to it. And you'll have to drain the coolant to get to it, so check it at the same time that you're changing the coolant.

Hopefully it's just the thermostat, and not something really expensive like a blown head gasket.
 
To check the thermostat easily, remove the radiator cap and start the bike.
If you see coolant flowing through, then the thermostat is open, Wait until it warms up because a normal thermostat might be closed at startup.
This is also how you "bleed" the coolant system, because air rises and any air bubbles in the system should rise out of the radiator cap.
 
Same year, similar problem. I'm not losing coolant out the overflow but when I've been riding a little harder than normal (letting the revs get to 7K or so while shifting) my temp guage makes it to the top (big) bar.

Is this something to be worried about?
 
I did some more digging today...

I opened the radiator cap and noticed that coolant was flowing. Even immediately after startup when it was cold. I let it warm up and no problems.

I rode the bike a couple of miles pretty hard (10k in 2nd) and no problems.

I rode the same track I did last night under about the same conditions. I parked it to get ice cream (MMMMMM) and the time it takes to get my helmet off and around the right side of the bike, then it starts pissing out the overflow again. :confused: The temp gauge was showing 4 bars.

On the way home I ride it nice and gentle (I had to... I was following my wife) and no problems when I parked it then.

Should I be letting the bike cool down some before shutting it down after riding it hard?? Or do I need to keep digging into this?? I checked the oil and no coolant there, any other indications of blown head gasket?

Thanks much!
 
Did you do any or have any work done on it lately? There may be an air lock. The rad cap may be bad which will lower the boiling point. A pressure check may help.

How many miles and what's it's service history?
 
I have only owned the bike for 1200 miles. Previous to that it sat on the showroom of a used bike dealer for almost a year.

I have no idea of the service history, so that is frustrating. The bike dealer has a good reputation, so I think they would help out. They are just an hour away. I would call them, I just don't know what to tell them...
:confused::confused::confused:
 
good call on the pressure (cap) check. Maybe do a flush and fill with proper ratios of coolant and water.

Otherwise maybe don't "ride it hard and put away wet"...even the superbike guys do a cool down lap :)
 
We have an overflow recovery system on our bikes.

The radiator cap allows coolant to flow to and from the overflow tank. Is your hose from the radiator to the tank missing or broken? It's a small diameter hose. Maybe about 9-10 mm. I bet it is broken or disconnected. Find the small hose. It starts at the top of the radiator where the radiator cap is and trace it to the coolant recovery tank. You might have to lift your tank. Was it broken / disconnected? After this hose is connected properly and the bike is cold, refill the radiator to the top. Put the radiator cap back on. Go to the little white coolant recovery tank and fill it to the LOW mark. Warm the bike up. The coolant in the recovery tank should rise near the full mark. If not fill it to the full mark. Not the radiator. The recovery tank. Let the bike completely cool The coolant level in the recovery tank should start to lower. Repeat this process making sure your coolant recovery tank coolant levels are within the specified range.
These motors can over heat very quickly and I would correct this problem pronto. Instead of experimentation and guess work. Take it to a someone in the know and get it repaired or diagnosed. Maybe someone along the way overfilled your coolant recovery tank? Hard to tell without seeing it.
Happy Riding!
 
Last edited:
The cap is a pressure type, when it "opens" the coolant goes to the overflow reservoir. if it is opening at too low a pressure then you will get premature boiling and overflow. The pressure raises the boiling point. There is some transfer of the fluid level as you mention though as part of normal operation.

Radiator cap opening pressure
93–123 kPa (13.2–17.5 psi)
(0.93–1.23 kgf/cm²

CHECKING THE THERMOSTAT
1. Check:
• Thermostat “1”
Does not open at 71–85°C (160–185°F) →
Replace.


Reasons for overheating from the service manual:

Engine
1. Clogged coolant passages
• Cylinder head(s) and piston(s)
• Heavy carbon buildup
2. Engine oil
• Incorrect oil level
• Incorrect oil viscosity
• Inferior oil quality

Cooling system
1. Coolant
• Low coolant level
2. Radiator
• Damaged or leaking radiator
• Faulty radiator cap
• Bent or damaged radiator fin
3. Water pump
• Damaged or faulty water pump
• Thermostat
• Thermostat stays closed
• Oil cooler
• Clogged or damaged oil cooler
• Hose(s) and pipe(s)
• Damaged hose
• Improperly connected hose
• Damaged pipe
• Improperly connected pipe
Fuel system
1. Throttle body(-ies)
• Damaged or loose throttle body joint
2. Air filter
• Clogged air filter element
Chassis
1. Brake(s)
• Dragging brake
Electrical system
1. Spark plug(s)
• Incorrect spark plug gap
• Incorrect spark plug heat range
2. Ignition system
• Faulty ECU
3. Cooling system
• Faulty radiator fan motor relay
• Faulty coolant temperature sensor
• Faulty ECU
 
Thank you Tuningfork. Yes the cap is is pressurized. I'm almost thinking he's got an open line...? I'm going to run down to 4bucks coffee for a drink and see what happens in all gears at 10k....LOL

Also thank you for the additional reasons he could be experiencing overheating. All good calls!
 
Last edited:
Back
Top