Adjusting valve clearence + Throttle body sync => What do I need?

[MrMogensen]

I think I'll take a look at FinalImpact's "Spark Plug Caps" fix some day soon (before new bike season) => Found here http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...tion-cure-bad-vibrations-spark-plug-caps.html

Before that I'd really want to Adjust the Valve Clearence + Throttle Body Sync but I am wondering what kind of spareparts I'd need for this...

I got the manual and as far as I can see (after a fast look through) is that I'd need the following:

*Cylinder Head Cover Gasket.
*What else? Maybe other gaskets?
*The manual mentions two special tool: "Valve Lapper" - can I do without it?
*"Vacuum gauge" - Seems like I can't live without one if I want to do the throttle body sync.

(+I already got new spark plugs on the shelf)

Have had the bike for 6-7 hears now but the first Valce Clearence Check was done by the shop (back when I was less poor)!

 

[Carlos840]

Can't help for the valve clearance, but for the TBS i really recommend you get a Morgan Carb Tuner, great tool, pays for itself in one use, can't go wrong with it!

 

[FinalImpact]

I'm guessing you glanced at this tread already, ((WELL DONE--> http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/47593-valve-clearance-check.html). You may need right side cover gasket, Some can be reused others not. They call it the oil pump cover but its the one with the circle plug for turning the crank. PN: 5SL-15456-01 and a tube of Yama-bond. Its good quality sealant.

You may as well plan in dumping the coolant too. So be ready for a quick flush.

PS - I'm not sure what plugs your putting back in, but do NOT exceed the recomended plug gap. Look over that link and post up any questions.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Juat to add, the valve lapper you asked about, you don't need. Its a tool used for setting valves (after a valve job/repair) for seating the valve int the head (the head is off).

You should be able to use the original valve cover gasket(its rubber).

I'd also suggest, when re-assembling, just a tad of di-lectric grease on the boots of the spark plug caps(where the caps actually seal at the valve cover). It'll make installation MUCH easier and you'll actually hear the caps SNAP onto the spark plug. You'll probably find removal of the caps are very, very tight. Gently use a screwdriver, at the base of the seal to pry up. DO NOT pull on the wire...

I would also check the spark plug cap to wire connection. FI has found some instances it comes loose or the connection not as good as it should be. Your right there and it'd be the best time to check or repair if necessary.

 

[MrMogensen]

I'm guessing you glanced at this tread already, ((WELL DONE--> http://www.600riders.com/forum/how-tos/47593-valve-clearance-check.html). You may need right side cover gasket, Some can be reused others not. They call it the oil pump cover but its the one with the circle plug for turning the crank. PN: 5SL-15456-01 and a tube of Yama-bond. Its good quality sealant.

You may as well plan in dumping the coolant too. So be ready for a quick flush.

PS - I'm not sure what plugs your putting back in, but do NOT exceed the recomended plug gap. Look over that link and post up any questions.

I did now - very nice!
A whole lot better than what I could read form the the Yamaha Service Manual.

And regarding spark plugs - bought them from as listed for FZ6 parts, but I'll be sure to check the plug gap anyway - thanks!

 

[DeepBlueRider]

Don't forget you will need shims if adjustments to valve clearance will be required.

Main problem is it's impossible to say what you might need. You will have to check the clearance and if it will be out of spec you will have to pull out old shim to see what new shim size you need.

You will either need shim kit (FZ6 uses 7.48mm) or go to local shop and hope they carry what you need.

 

[MrMogensen]

...
You will either need shim kit (FZ6 uses 7.48mm) or go to local shop and hope they carry what you need.

Asked the local Yamaha shop (which is 30 km away) and they got shims (valve pads).

I think I'll just have to start disassembling... and forget about the rather superstitious idea that I need all spareparts before I begin.

If I'm in luck all might be within spec...

 

[MrMogensen]

Have any of you had to replace either Timingchain (+sprockets) and/or Timing Chain Tensioner?

If none... then I won't bother googling for parts/prices.

 

[FinalImpact]

Have any of you had to replace either Timing chain (+sprockets) and/or Timing Chain Tensioner?

If none... then I won't bother googling for parts/prices.

How many miles??

If less than 30,000 miles the only things I would suspect of is the Tensioner. The guides are more apt to wear than the chain or sprockets. However, an engine left with rough idle is more apt to wear the timing components.

In short if its had a rough idle for years and the chain side of the engine is noisy, you might prepare for guides and TCT. Just not sure how many miles are on it.

 

[Motogiro]

Asked the local Yamaha shop (which is 30 km away) and they got shims (valve pads).

I think I'll just have to start disassembling... and forget about the rather superstitious idea that I need all spareparts before I begin.

If I'm in luck all might be within spec...

When I did my SV I bought a full Hotcams shim kit. About $63 I figured by the time I got done trying to find the right shims at a dealer I'd break even on the price plus have shims for the future.

Have any of you had to replace either Timingchain (+sprockets) and/or Timing Chain Tensioner?

If none... then I won't bother googling for parts/prices.

VEGASRIDER (kenny) had 80,000 plus on his engine and had to replace timing chain and guides. his timing chain was so worn and stretched it cut through the crankshaft position sensor! Lol! I don't think he ever checked his valve lash except maybe then.

 

[FinalImpact]

When I did my SV I bought a full Hotcams shim kit. About $63 I figured by the time I got done trying to find the right shims at a dealer I'd break even on the price plus have shims for the future.



VEGASRIDER (kenny) had 80,000 plus on his engine and had to replace timing chain and guides. his timing chain was so worn and stretched it cut through the crankshaft position sensor! Lol! I don't think he ever checked his valve lash except maybe then.

^^ Good point!
When an engine gets opened, its best for you and it to be able to complete the job all in one setting. Reference is simply trying to keep contaminants out of the engine. So having the shim kit on hand would be a blessing!

Also - a pair of veneer calipers or a micrometer to measure the shims. Sometimes the writing is worn off so these are beneficial towards accurately measuring the old shim when it comes out.

As for Vegas and 80K, I wonder if his TCT was weak all along letting the chain fly about thus causing extra wear??

 

[DeepBlueRider]

I've inspected my timingchain and guides visually when doing valves (27k miles) but everything looked ok, so I didn't bother with replacing. Maybe I will consider at 50k mark.

 

[MrMogensen]

I am at the 55.000 km mark...
Idle seems fine but when i rev a tiny bit (around 3-4000) I hear a bit of a rattle from ride side (timingchain side). Had this for the past 2 years but dealer said I shouldn't even bother with it before valve check.
Will open up this weeend if I get my hands on a shimkit.

 

[MrMogensen]

Can't help for the valve clearance, but for the TBS i really recommend you get a Morgan Carb Tuner, great tool, pays for itself in one use, can't go wrong with it!

Would I need anything else than the actual 4-column kit (which is 57 british pounds) for an FZ6?

Carbtune Pro 4-column

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Would I need anything else than the actual 4-column kit (which is 57 british pounds) for an FZ6?

Carbtune Pro 4-column

No you shouldn't. Thats the one I have (but not upgraded).

I would invest in the pouch to store it in. Its not expensive, keeps all your hoses, connectors together and protected.

Due to some initial purchasing problems (computer crashing) when I was trying to order overseas, they GAVE me the pouch, great folks, and GREAT PRODUCT.

 

[MrMogensen]

No you shouldn't. Thats the one I have (but not upgraded).

I would invest in the pouch to store it in. Its not expensive, keeps all your hoses, connectors together and protected.

Due to some initial purchasing problems (computer crashing) when I was trying to order overseas, they GAVE me the pouch, great folks, and GREAT PRODUCT.

Ordering ASAP!

*EDIT*
Just recieved the order confirmation via E-mail.
There was a line of text that made me kind of laugh!

Specific Carbtune extra instruction: DO NOT SUCK CARBTUNE WITH YOUR MOUTH.


Well someone must have done it? :tard:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Ordering ASAP!

*EDIT*
Just recieved the order confirmation via E-mail.
There was a line of text that made me kind of laugh!

Specific Carbtune extra instruction: DO NOT SUCK CARBTUNE WITH YOUR MOUTH.


Well someone must have done it? :tard:

Must have!!?? To test it??? There's no fluids to swallow, so I don't know what that's about.. Maybe to keep saliva out of the unit??


BTW, there are 4 (for each hose) very small restrictors included that get put in-line (you have to cut the hose at a certain lenth, then install them).

DO NOT bypass this or loose those restrictors. As I re-call, when setting up for the sync, the "restictor end" of the hose goes closer to the engine (its in the directions).

 

[MrMogensen]

FINALLY got to do some work on the bike...
I'm at the part where I only need to lift the valve cover off and start measuring. Hopefully I'll do it tomorrow...

I found this little rubber thingy lying on the rear part of the front fender? I don't know if it's from the bike or not?
Just before stowing the bike away in October I installed a steel braided brake hose kit so I hope what I found was not from the brake fluid reservoir?
Haven't been riding since so I thought I might be...

Uploading pictures directly from phone so hope it works...

 

[MrMogensen]

Another shot...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I don't recognize it from anywhere on the bike..

Any close, higher up shelves it could have fell from?